The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook (16 page)

BOOK: The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook
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Island Shrimp Salad
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Creamy Dill Dressing
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Lemon Mustard Dressing
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Curry Dressing
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Parsley Dressing
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Chicken Salad with Mango Mayonnaise
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Red Bean and Rice Salad
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Spinach Timbales
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Corn Timbales with Basil Cream
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Curried Citrus Rice
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Black Beans and Rice with Rum
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Pete's Hot Sauce
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Major Morgan's Mango Chutney
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Tomato Chutney
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Flower Power

A friend once expressed concern because we put red hibiscus flowers on the dining room tables every night. "But what if you run out of flowers?" she asked.

We explained that no one ever runs out of flowers in the tropics. The hibiscus is a favorite of ours since it blooms so profusely and all parts of the plant are edible. We use the leaves to adorn plates, the flowers to decorate the tables, and the petals to make tea.

"
Bush teas," made from herbs and leaves, are very popular in the Caribbean, and recipes for these potions have been passed down through generations. Through the years we've learned about the curative properties of lemongrass, black wattle, wormgrass, lime, soursop, and other leaves when steeped in hot water for sipping.

But it wasn't until we met Doris Jadan, from St. John, that we discovered hibiscus tea. This brew makes no claim as a curative, but it's tasty and beautiful to look at. Doris suggests that about five blossoms make a 4-ounce cup of tea, which can be sweetened
with
honey and flavored with lemongrass or a slice of lime. Hibiscus tea doesn't have a strong flavor, but its color is beautiful, and when it is drunk either hot or cold, the tea is delightfully refreshing.

Sweet and Sour Peppers

Make these any time you have extra sweet peppers. They keep very well in the refrigerator and are terrific in salads, spooned over brie to serve with crackers, or simply on their own to brighten up an otherwise dull dinner plate.

 

3
cups water
½
cup sherry vinegar or champagne vinegar
⅓
cup honey
2
onions, thinly sliced
8
garlic cloves, sliced
2
bay leaves
½
teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2
pounds bell peppers (red, yellow, orange, or a combination), cut lengthwise into 1-inch-wide strips
4
thyme sprigs

Combine the water, vinegar, honey, onions, garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a large pot, and bring the ingredients to a boil. Add the peppers and thyme, and simmer them for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, let the peppers cool, and refrigerate them, with their cooking liquid, in a covered container. They will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

 

Makes 6 servings

Hearts of Palm Carnival

One day a visitor, one of those footloose types who roam the islands, dropped in at the Sugar Mill. He could weave hats and intricate birds out of dried grass, and he seemed to know a lot about living off the land. One night, after helping some of our staff take trash to the dump, he returned with the trunk of a Sabal palm tree that someone had discarded. He whacked away at it with a machete until he retrieved the tender heart, and then cooked it with salt pork. For us it was a terrific new taste experience, and when we said so he replied, "Well heck, it's nothin' but old swamp cabbage."

Alas, we've never again found such a treasure at the dump.

 

½
cup coarsely chopped Kalamata olives
3
coarsely chopped tomatoes
3
chopped green onions (both white and green parts)
1
garlic clove, minced
½
Scotch bonnet (or habanero) pepper or 1 to 2 jalapeño peppers, minced
¼
cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
18
canned hearts of palm, cut in half vertically
Loose-leaf lettuce

In a bowl, gently mix together all the ingredients except the hearts of palm and the lettuce. Arrange the lettuce on individual salad plates. Place the hearts of palm in a fan shape on each plate of lettuce. Mound a portion of the chopped vegetables at each apex, and serve.

 

Makes 6 servings

Summer Lunch Buffet

F
ISH
E
SCABECHE
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***

R
ED
B
EAN AND
R
ICE
S
ALAD
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***

L
EEK AND
P
EPPER
S
ALAD WITH
T
APENADE
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***

G
REEN
B
ANANAS IN
O
LIVE
V
INAIGRETTE
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***

K
EY
L
IME
P
IE
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Leek and Pepper Salad with Tapenade

Peppers—hot and mild, green, red, orange, yellow, and purple—all grow in happy profusion in the islands, and we're always looking for new ways to use them. This colorful and sophisticated salad has become a real favorite.

 

12
leeks, trimmed
1½
cups olive oil
1
teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1
garlic clove, minced
Grated zest of 1 orange
⅓
cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
1¼
cups pitted Kalamata olives
½
cup walnuts, toasted for 8 to 10 minutes in a 350° oven and chopped
1
teaspoon minced rosemary
2
jalapeño peppers, stemmed and seeded, or 3 tablespoons canned diced jalapeño peppers
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2
tablespoons armagnac or cognac
6
red bell peppers

Slit the green portion of the leeks with a knife, and wash the leaves thoroughly under running water to remove all grit. In a pot, simmer the leeks gently in salted water for about 10 minutes, until they are just tender when pierced with a knife.

Whisk together ½ cup of the oil, the thyme, the garlic, the orange zest, the wine, and the salt and pepper in a bowl. Set the marinade aside.

Drain the leeks on paper towels. While they are still warm, place them in a shallow dish and cover them with the marinade. Allow them to sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature, turning them occasionally.

In a food processor or blender, whirl the olives, walnuts, rosemary, hot pepper, lemon juice, zest, and brandy. Don't overprocess them; the mixture should have some texture. With the machine running, gradually add the remaining oil. Set the sauce aside.

Prepare a charcoal fire for grilling, or preheat the broiler.

Broil the leeks and peppers, or grill them over charcoal, until they are charred. Put the peppers in a plastic bag, and leave the bag in the freezer while you prepare the leeks. Discard the burned leek leaves, and cut any large leeks in half lengthwise. Arrange the leeks cut side down on a plate, fanning out the leaves. Remove the peppers from the freezer, and peel them under running water. Cut them in half vertically, and remove the stems and seeds. Lay the grilled pepper halves between the leeks. Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Place some of the tapenade in the center of the platter, and garnish the plate with fresh rosemary. Serve the salad at room temperature, with the remaining sauce in a separate bowl.

 

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Papaya and Prosciutto with Ginger Vinaigrette

This can be served as a first course or as a salad. Either way, the sweet, salty, and tart flavors will dance on your taste buds.

 

Dressing
½
cup Stone's Ginger Wine (see
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)
½
cup water
¼
cup peeled and minced gingerroot
2
tablespoons white wine vinegar
5
tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Salad
3
papayas or 1 large melon, peeled and sliced ½ inch thick
1
head loose-leaf lettuce
3
ounces prosciutto, cut into slivers
Watercress or parsley sprigs
1
red bell pepper, cut into julienne strips

To make the dressing, put the wine, water, and ginger into a saucepan, and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer the ingredients ½ hour.

Uncover the pan, raise the heat, and reduce the liquid until only ¼ cup remains. Pour it into a bowl, and let it cool. Add the vinegar, and whisk in the oil, salt, and pepper.

Arrange the lettuce on a platter or on individual plates. Place the papaya or melon slices on top. Sprinkle the prosciutto on top, and spoon the ginger vinaigrette over all. Garnish with the watercress or parsley and red pepper, and serve.

 

Makes 6 servings

Curried Tomato Salad

If you have some of the wonderful tomatoes of summer so much the better, but even if your tomatoes are tasteless pink tennis balls, this treatment will give them a lift. We particularly like this dish as a prelude for barbecued, grilled, or roasted meat.

 

3
tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
1
large red onion, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
¾
cup mayonnaise
¼
cup minced parsley
1
tablespoon curry powder
Loose-leaf lettuce

Combine the onions and tomatoes in a bowl. Add the salt and pepper, and chill the mixture well.

In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, parsley, and curry powder. Add the curry dressing to the tomato mixture, and mix well. Spoon the tomato-onion mixture onto lettuce leaves, and serve immediately.

 

Makes 6 servings

Green Papaya Salad

In the islands, we don't use papaya only when it's ripe; we also use it when it's green, much as you might use zucchini. Try this salad the next time your greengrocer is overloaded with underripe papayas. Select dark green papayas with no streaks of yellow, if possible.

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