The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food (62 page)

skate,
219
,
254
–55,
280

specialty market in,
279
–80

squid,
257
,
317

sushi,
204
,
209
–10,
211
,
255
–56

sustainability and,
210
–11,
282

swordfish,
219
,
280
–81

tonaso,
226
–27

trophic levels of,
218
–19,
220
,
442

trout,
442

tuna,
see
tuna

fish farming,
see
aquaculture

fishing industry,
213
–16,
220
,
253
–54,
279

algae blooms and,
216

almadraba,
273
–75,
282
–83,
287
–90,
293
–302,
303
,
304
,
313
,
316

bycatch and,
215
,
229
,
230
,
305
,
333

León and,
227
–28

sonar in,
214
,
274

specialty market and,
279
–80

trawling in,
214
–15

flamingos,
244
–45,
249
–50,
312

flavonoids,
87

flavor,
22
,
98
,
99
,
374
,
375
,
384

blandness,
155
n

breeding for,
389
,
403

genes and,
403

phytonutrients and,
87

soil and,
85
–90

sub-taste threshold and,
373

water content and,
403

yields and,
6
,
402
–3

Flavr Savr tomatoes,
385

flea beetles,
54

flounder,
219

flour,
36
,
37
,
38
–41,
47
,
51
,
342
,
395
,
413
–14,
417

consistency of,
410
–11,
413
,
415
,
419
–20

graham,
343
–44,
354
–55,
373

high-gluten,
416

shelf life of,
38
,
374

white,
36
,
39
,
40
,
43
,
339
,
354
,
355

whole wheat,
29
,
342

flour mills,
38
,
419

foie gras,
111
–12,
118
–19,
123
,
127
,
133
,
136
,
141
,
148
,
162
,
180
,
181
,
187
,
188
,
310

color of,
127
–28,
149
,
189

from ducks,
110
–11,
187
–88,
192
–93,
360

from geese,
105
–11,
119
,
122
,
132
–34,
141
,
145
–46,
158
–60,
162
,
163
,
169
,
174
,
180
–87,
189
–91,
193
,
196
,
221

Stone Barns experiment with,
183
–91,
194
–98

food as fuel,
380

food chain,
21

food preparation, time spent in,
153
–54

food processing,
74
–75

Ford, James,
85

fossil fuels,
365

Fourfold Path to Healing, The
(Cowan),
267

Fowler, Cary,
365
,
396
n

fragile ecosystems,
201

Fraser, Evan,
71

Freedman, Paul,
141

French Laundry,
351

fruits,
35
–36,
37
,
94
–96,
103
,
149
n

Fuente de Piedra,
249

Fulton Fish Market,
254

fungi,
91

anthracnose,
67

late blight,
382
–85,
386
–87

mycorrhizal,
91
,
92
–93

fungicides,
82
–83,
87

Fussell, Betty,
155
n

galinsoga,
58

García, Dani,
236

Gault, Henri,
139

geese,
105
–6,
110
,
118
,
194

foie gras from,
105
–11,
119
,
122
,
132
–34,
141
,
145
–46,
158
–60,
162
,
163
,
169
,
174
,
180
–87,
189
–91,
193
,
196
,
221

hawks and,
130
,
245

Sousa and,
105
,
111
,
119
,
121
,
122
–23,
126
–34,
158
–64,
168
,
180
,
183
–84,
189
,
193
,
195
–96,
198
,
243
–45,
249
,
251
,
310
,
433

at Stone Barns,
183
–91,
194
–98

Toulouse,
196

wild,
131
,
146

genes,
269
,
360
,
361
,
401
–2,
422

flavor and,
403

genetically modified foods,
385
,
398

tomatoes,
385
–86

wheat,
395
–98

geraniums,
82
–83

Gérard, Charles,
110

Ginor, Michael,
187

giraffes,
243
–44

gizzards,
155
,
219

Glass Onion, The,
372
–76

global warming,
196
,
217
,
218
,
249
,
313

gluten,
340
,
416

Gold, Jonathan,
8
,
9

“golden” food,
149
n

golf courses,
216

Gourmet,
8
,
202
–3,
205
–12,
222

Gouze, Philippe,
203
,
206

Graham, Sylvester,
343
–44,
355

graham flour,
343
–44,
354
–55,
373

Grahm, Randall,
91

Grain Belt,
216

grains,
16
,
33
–37,
46
,
74
,
103
,
156
–57,
235
,
236
,
327
,
332
–33,
377
,
378
,
423
,
443

barley,
327
,
352
,
367
,
418
,
437
,
445

feeding to livestock,
27
,
28
,
66
,
97
,
114
,
115
,
117
–19,
298
,
327
,
332
,
333
,
440

less desired,
327

organic,
29

rice,
see
rice

rye,
349
–50,
352
,
358
,
437
,
438

whole,
40
,
339
,
341

see also
corn; oats; wheat

grande cuisine,
139

grasses,
44
,
52
,
53
,
59
,
173
,
423

see also
grains; weeds

Great Plains,
43
,
49

greenhouse effect,
218

greenhouses,
82
,
83

at Stone Barns,
13
,
81
,
84
,
85
,
88
,
263
,
317
,
337
,
445

Green Revolution,
362
,
364
,
367
,
368
,
369
,
412

grits,
348
,
349
,
350
–51,
354
,
373
,
375
,
380

grouper,
219
,
223

growing nature,
19
,
180
–81

growth hormones,
324
–25,
326

Grunert, Alex,
334
–36,
338
,
340
,
341
,
343

Guachie, Marcel,
188

Guadalquivir River,
241
,
242
,
245
–46,
264
,
265
,
267

Guérard, Michel,
138

Guide Michelin,
137

Gulf of Mexico,
216
,
245
,
264
–65

Gussow, Joan Dye,
31
,
96
–97,
98

Haber, Fritz,
73
,
75
,
152

Haber-Bosch process,
73
,
75

halibut,
218
,
219

ham,
198

see also
jamón

Haney, Craig,
13
,
14
,
113
,
115
,
116
,
142
–45,
148
,
150
,
160
,
168
–69,
183
–85,
190
,
191
,
194
–96,
198
,
204
,
207
,
327
,
438
,
440
–41,
443

Harder, Jules,
357

Harttung, Thomas,
31
,
89

Hatch Act,
386

hawks,
130
,
245

heart, as pump,
266
–67

heart disease,
169
n,
269

Henley, Marcus,
192
,
193

herbicides,
53
,
84
–85,
248
n

genetically modified foods and,
395
–98

Roundup,
395
–98

2,4-D,
26

weed resistance to,
27

Hess, Karen,
38
,
345

Hi-Bred Corn Company,
362

homeostasis,
267

Homestead Acts,
44
,
45
,
386

Hoover, Floyd,
324

Hopi Blue corn,
371
,
378

Hopi nation,
371

Hoppin’ John,
352
,
431
–32

hormones,
324
–25,
326

Horst, Eddie,
324

Howard, Albert,
70
,
75
–77,
83
–84,
88

Hubbell, Sue,
240

Hudson Valley Foie Gras,
111
–12,
187
–88,
190
,
192
–94

humus,
70
,
76

hunger,
365
–66,
367
,
369
n

Huxley, Thomas Henry,
213
,
214

hybrid vigor,
110
,
360

Ibérico,
176

jamón ibérico,
104
,
124
,
125
,
128
,
162
–65,
169
–73,
176
n,
177
,
179
,
182
,
183
,
198
,
283
,
291
,
306
,
332
,
423
,
441

Ikerd, John,
97
–98

India,
363
,
365

Industrial Revolution,
110

Ingham, Elaine,
87

ingredient sourcing on menus,
276
,
281
,
411

insecticides,
87

DDT,
239
,
248
n

insects,
54
–55,
58
,
99
n

International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT),
295
–96

International Culinary Center,
252

International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center (CIMMYT),
363

Iroquois,
6

irrigation,
365

Isenbarger, Jill,
440

Isla Mayor,
237

Jackson, Wes,
41
–43,
45
,
49
–50,
92
,
175
–76,
331
–33,
364
,
366
,
429
–30

Land Institute,
41

Jalisco,
156

Jamison, John,
116
–18,
162
,
278

Jamison, Sukey,
116
–17,
278

jamón,
164
,
284
,
304

ibérico,
104
,
124
,
125
,
128
,
162
–65,
169
–73,
176
n,
177
,
179
,
182
,
183
,
198
,
283
,
291
,
306
,
332
,
423
,
441