What the Traveller Saw (23 page)

BOOK: What the Traveller Saw
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Old houses in Rouseau, Dominica, 1972.

Dominica, so named because Columbus discovered it on a Sunday, is the largest of the Windward Islands, and famous for its very British cricket matches, hot springs, boiling lakes and dense forests. In spite of its olde worlde charm, the capital Rouseau gave shelter to a small but vocal group which threatened to make it an impossible stopping place, to the horror of the local taxi drivers (‘Go home, whites!’ we were told three times in fifteen minutes), and so, after speaking to the Governor of Dominica who said he couldn’t do anything about it, we complied.

The Grand Hotel Oloffson, Port au Prince, Haiti.

At around 6. 30 every evening, César the barman began circulating the rum punches to those members of the literary and theater (sic) sets who described the place as ‘darling’; and to exquisite members of the local smart set, whose patrician countenances ranged in pigmentation from the jet black of Africa to the palest of sangmelees. And there was M. Aubelin Joliecoeur – the ‘Petit Pierre’ of Greene’s
Comedians
, much of which was set in the Oloffson – a tiny. posturing, white-silk-suited, chocolate-coloured journalist and PR man to the regime; here, there and everywhere, waving a little cane. calling people he had never met, including us, ‘darling’, and from time to time popping out to bully his chauffeur.

The Great Wall beyond the Nankhou Pass where it shoots up the mountainside to the east and west, in some places at an angle of forty-five degrees.

Great fountain in Palermo in Piazza Pretoria, designed by two Florentines down there on a visit, Michaelangelo Naccherino ( 1573) and Francesco Camilliani (1574–5). Its statuary is a popular target for vandals.

Index

The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader’s search tools.

Abd ul-Hamid II, Sultan, 77, 88

Abd ul-Medjid I, Sultan, 90

Achill Island, County Mayo, 42

Addis Ababa, 181

Admiral Karpfanger
, 16

Afghanis (currency), 34

Afghanistan, 33–4

Ajuda Palace, Belem, 110

Albert, Prince, 111

Alcântara Valley, 106

Alentejo, 109

Alès, 71

Alfama, 108–9

Alfonso XIII, King, 81

Algarve, 109

Alice Springs, 153–4, 158–9

All Hallows, Kent, 62

Allahabad, 59

Allenby, General, 77

Amman, 97

Angkor Wat, 115

Aqueducto das Águas Livres, 106

Aralsk, 37

Aranda tribe, 160

Arandora Star
, 27

Arcadie, 175

Arctic Circle, 126

Asturias, 81

Atatürk, 88

Aveiro, 113

Avignon, 71

Ayer’s Rock, 166–7

Bagheria, 196

Bairro Alto, 108

Baixa, 106

Baker, Revd Thomas, 150

Bali, 115–9

Bandjar
, village government, 118

Barcelos, 107

‘Baron Samedi’, 173, 176

Barra, 113

Barrymore, John, 66

Batum, 87

Beaverbrook, Lord, 66

Bébé Doc
see
Duvalier, Jean Paul

Beckford, William, 111

Beira Litoral, 109

Belem, 110

Bela Vista Hotel, Macau, 139

Bengal, Bay of, 55

Bergler, Ettore de Maria, 192

Berlin, Isaiah, (Sir), 37

Betapak-Dala Steppe, 36

Bhagirathi river, 57, 60

Bihar, 58

Binbirdirek, ‘The Thousand One Columns’, 89

Boggy Hole, 160, 162

Bon-Dieu-Bon, Le Grand Maître, 173–4

Boreal Forest, The Taiga, 121

Borobodur, 115

Bosphorus river, 85, 87

Bossu Comblamin, 174

Brahmaputra river, 58

Bremen
, 65

Briançon, 73–4

Brideshead Revisited
, (Evelyn Waugh), 65

Brueghel the elder, 62

Burgon, John, 98

Burckhardt, John Ludwig, 97, 102

Byrnes, Diane, 153

Byzantium, 86

Cain, 83

Candide
, 105

Cannibal Isles (Fiji), 149

Cantinho de S. Pedro, 111

Canton, 139, 181

Cap-Haïtien, 174, 177

Capella Palatina, 195

Cape Verde Islands, 108

Cares river, 83

Catania, 23, 193

Cathay Hotel
see
Peace Hotel

Causse Méjean, 73

Cefalu, 195

Chac, god of water, 145

Chac-Mools, stone monoliths, 145

Chaine de Belance, 177

Changning, 182

Chartered Bank, 183

Chechoo, Richard Angus, 126

Chichén Itzá, 145

Chingan, 182

Chou-En-Lai, Premier, 189

Christophe (Henri I of Haiti), 178

Coal Hill, 187

Cochrane, 121–2

Col de Finiels, 75

The Comedians
, (Graham Greene), 170–1, 175

Compagnie Générale Atlantique, 68

Constantine the Great, 90

Constantine, King of Greece, 191

Convento de Capuchos, near Sintra, 111

Cordier, Raymond, 70

Coromandel, 115

Costa Nova do Prado, 113

Cree Indians, 122

Croaghaun, Achill Island, 42

Cunard ships, 65

Curtin Springs, 166

Dagenham, 62

Dali, Salvador, 68

David, King, 77

tomb of, 79

Denpasar, 116

Dolmabahçe Palace, Istanbul, 88, 90

Dominica, 172

Douglass, Sir William, 46

Dumont, Margaret, 66

Dürrenmatt, Friedrich, 63

Duvalier, François ‘Papa Doc’, 169–70

Duvalier, Jean-Paul ‘Bébé Doc’, 173, 176

Duvalierville, 175

Dzhusaly, 36

Dzichibaltun, 145

Edirne, Thrace, 86

Eighty Mile Beach, 155

Erikson, Gustav, 15–16, 18

Fabre, 75

La Favorita, 196

Ferdinand of Saxe Coburg, 111

Fiji, 147–52

Fijians, 148

Finke river, 161

Florac, 72

Florio, Ignazio, 191

Fong Cheng, 184

Fontanellato, 23–5

Forbidden City, Peking, 186

Fort Dimanche, 170–1

Fort Portal, 93

France
, 65–6, 68

Franz Josef II, Austrian Emperor, 39

Fuento-Dé, 83

Gama, Vasco da, 110

Gandhi, Indira, 55

Ganesh, elephant god, 116

Ganges river, 55–60

Gangotri glacier, 57

Garbo, Greta, 66

Gardon d’Alès, 71

Gardon de Mialet, 72

Garhwal Himalayas, 57

Gate of Heavenly Peace, 186

Gate of Zion, 78–9

Gaur, 115

George Gill Range, 164–5

Gibson Desert, 155

Giles, Ernest, 162

Goa, 105

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 197

Golden Gate, Jerusalem, 79

Golden Horn, 86–7

Gomukh, the Cow’s Mouth, 57

Gosse, William, 167

grain trade, ships engaged in, 16–17

Grand Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince, 171

Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, 191

Gravina, Ferdinando Francesco, 197

Great Hall of the People, 189

Great Nore Tower, 61

Great Sandy Desert, 155

Great Victoria Desert, 155

Great Wall of China, 187–8

Grimes, Captain, 42

Haghia Eirene (the Divine Peace), 90

Haghia Sophia, 90

Haile Selassie, 181

Hakka tribe, 137

Hall of Friendship, Peking, 183

Hanchow (Hnag Zhou), 184, 190

Handbook for Travellers, 1878
, 86

Hans
, 19

Hardwar, 55, 57

Hayter, Sir William, 37

Henri I, of Haiti, 178

Hermannsburg Mission, 154, 161

Hints to Travellers, 1937
, 93

Hofburg, The, Vienna, 39

Hollingshead, Claire, 189

Honan, 188

Hong Kong, 133

and Shanghai Banking Corporation, 135

Club, 135

cricket club, 134

Hooghly river, 60

Ibrahim, Sultan, 86

Imperial Vaults, Vienna, 39

Indus river, 57

Inquisition, the, 105

Iron Market, Port-au-Prince, 172

Isle of Grain, Kent, 62

Istanbul, 85, 87–8

James Range, 154, 158

Jardine Matheson, 135, 183

Java, 115

Jebusites, 77

Jerusalem, 77

Jesuit missionaries to Peking, 186

John V, King of Portugal, 112

José I, King of Portugal, 106

Justinian I, Byzantine Emperor, 89

Kabul, 37

Kaisergruft (Imperial Vaults), Vienna, 39

Kapali Çarsisi, 89

Karaca Ahmet, 89

Karagalar Tasligi, quarters of the Black Eunuchs, 90

Kariye Camii, St Saviour in Chora, 90

Kenscoff Mountains, 171

kerekere
, Fijian custom, 148

Kiangsi, 181

Kikuyu tribe, 94

Konorak, 115

Kowloon, 133, 134

Kublai Khan, 186

Kumbh Mela, bathing ceremony, 57

Kunming, 181

Kurt
, 19

Kyoto, 128–30

L’Isle des Seins Nus
(Bali), 117

Lafond, 176

Land of the Yuca, 141

Laurana, Francesco, 195

Lawhill
, 19

Lawrence, T. E., 47

Le Caye Zombi, 174

Le Grand Disparu
see
Duvalier, François

Leibnitz, Gottfried Wilhelm, 105

Leon, 81

Le Pont de Montvert, 75

Limonade, 178

Lisbon, 105–10

Liulichang, shops of, 187

Lok Ma Chau, 137

Lombardo, Rosalia, 195

Long Peace Street, Peking, 184

Lower Hope, Isolation Hospital, 63

Macau, 138

Macaulay, Rose, 145

Macdonnell Ranges, 154, 157–8

McKay, Donald, 19

Mafia, 193

Mafra, 111

Magnasco, 111

Malmont, Forêt de, 71

Mandarin Hotel, Hong Kong, 135–6

Mandragoa, 107

Manila, 133

Mao Tse-tung, 181

Marcel Torrens Palm Court Orchestra, 66

Maria II, Queen of Portugal, 111

Mariehamn, 15–16

Marmara, Sea of, 85–6

Marx Brothers, 66

Mau Mau, 94

Mayans, 141–2

Mayerling
see
Rudolph

Mehmet III, 91

Meng Thien, 188

Mercato Ortofrutticolo, 193

Merida, 141

Messina, Antonello da, 195

Mestizos, 142

Mexico City, 141

Mille, Cecil B. de, 143

Ming emperor, hanged himself on Coal Hill, 187

Ming tombs, 188

Mirals river, 73

Missionaries to Fiji, 150

Monfalcone, 33

Monreale Cathedral, 195

Monte Pellegrino, 191

Mont Lozère, 74–5

Montefiore, Sir Moses, 78

Montejo, Don Francesco de, 141

Moose Factory Island, 121, 126

Moose river, 121, 126

Moosonee, 126

Moscow, 37–8

Moses, 167

Moshulu
, 15–16, 18–20

Mottram, Lady Julia, 65

Mount Ayers, 167

Mount Corner, 166

Mount of Olives, 79

Mount Zion, 78

Mountains of the Moon Hotel, Uganda, 93

Murad III, 91

Nairobi, 94

Namatjira, Albert, 161

Nankhou Pass, 187

Nationalities Cultural Palace, Peking, 186

Nazaré, 112

Nehru, Jawarhalal, 55, 115

New Jerusalem, 77

New Territories, 133

Nicholson, Ben, 129

Nightingale, Florence, 88

North British Hotel, Edinburgh, 66

Northern Territory, 154

North French river, 125

Nyeri, 94

Obidos, Portugal, 112

Obin, Philomée, 178

Observatory, Peking, 186

Ogoun Feraile, God of War, 174

Oleynik, Mr, 34

Orlando, Leoluca, 193

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