Winter Garden (36 page)

If she had been strong enough to forgive herself, she would have had a chance, but she couldn't do it. Without forgiveness, I think it's difficult to really embrace love. We all have to forgive and be forgiven if love is to grow and flourish. Another interesting book club discussion question, I think, is how much does our childhood perception of our parents define who we become? How much will Nina and Meredith change now that they understand their mother better?

Did you ever consider an alternative ending to Winter Garden?

I did, actually. For the entire year that I was writing Winter Garden, I imagined the end to be a scene in New York, at some swanky art gallery, where Nina was unveiling her Women Warriors exhibition. The centerpiece of the exhibit would have been the photograph she took of her mother after the telling of the fairy tale. I even toyed with Nina seeing Danny there...with his new wife and child. But in the final draft, I realized that I wanted Nina and Danny to get their version of “happy ever after.” The women in this story deserved that.

The epilogue was wonderful - seeing the emotional bond develop between Anya and her daughters was immensely satisfying. What a gift to be at peace at the close of such a tumultuous life. You've said that this novel haunts you as no other novel you've written has done. Can you tell us about that?

I'd love to be a fly on the wall as book clubs discuss the ending to this book. That last scene is unusual and unexpected--even I didn't expect it. But the truth is, that by the end of Winter Garden, I simply couldn't bear for Anya to lose anyone else. I wanted her to find her daughter (I wanted her to find Sasha, too, but that's another story), and I wanted her to come to the end of her life as a happy woman, one who had survived the impossible and still managed to let love and joy into her broken heart.

It is Anya who haunts me. She is a fictional character, obviously, but she is drawn from research. The women who survived the Siege of Leningrad were lionesses, warriors. It's deeply inspiring to me. And even though it happened a long time ago, I find the story of their courage relevant in today's world. I like to think that if the situation arose, I could be that courageous.

Long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I wrote historical fiction. For years, I immersed myself in other time periods and rooted my stories in distant places. And then, somewhere along the way of this career, I came home in a way. I turned my attention to contemporary matters and began to write about women’s lives. More often than not, I set these stories in places I knew well.

I didn’t really make a conscious decision to change that pattern. In fact, I tried very hard to continue it. I enjoyed writing about the Pacific Northwest. True Colors and Firefly Lane literally took place in my own backyard and I loved it. The problem was that an oddball idea came to me. Now, believe me, I have a lot of strange ideas and I usually just ignore them until they go away. But this idea was Velcro. It started with a friend’s offhand comment about women during the siege of Leningrad. I knew very little about modern day St. Petersburg, next to nothing about Leningrad, and absolutely nothing about how the city fared during World War II.

So I did what I usually do when an idea is insistent: I started researching the topic.

That’s where the game ended…or began, depending on your point of view. Once I read my first account of the siege, I was hooked. Big time. The survivors’ stories literally clawed their way into my heart and there they remain. Hopefully you’ve finished Winter Garden before reading this essay, and if so, you have a pretty good picture of the suffering endured by Leningraders. What I was less able to incorporate into the novel was the beauty of the city. Leningrad was built to be famous, an eternal, gorgeous city that would welcome artists and celebrities and the wealthy. Picture elaborately designed buildings, topped in gold and painted gaily… picture arching bridges over sweeping rivers…picture scrollwork and marble statues and intricately landscaped public parks…now picture the Northern lights sparkling above. All of this was Peter’s Window to the West, the city that would give Venice a run for its money.

Of course, Stalin didn’t share Peter’s vision of the future and his rule became the anvil that beat down the citizenry. To write Winter Garden, I had to research not only the effect of the war on Leningrad, I had to become completely familiar with the people who lived there before the war. I read dozens of books about Stalin’s regime, the Great Reign of Terror, and the disappearances that terrified everyone. It was really important for me to understand the Communist mentality because it informs the choices that people made. After years of terror, the citizens had learned not to question their government. Thus, the evacuation of the children of Leningrad. It’s true that mothers put their children on trains, with their names pinned to their coats, with no real idea where those trains were going and when they would see their children again, if ever. It’s true that several of those trains were sent directly into German troops and bombed. It’s also true that Leningrad became a city of women during the siege—men, except for the very young and the very old—were off to fight the Germans.

The most difficult facet of the research was definitely reading the first hand accounts of the survivors. Diaries, letters, interviews. Unfortunately, the records of this time are not as extensive as they should be. It is yet another example of Stalin’s repression. Only recently has the real truth begun to be told.

In writing Winter Garden, it was my goal to take this epic, tragic event and personalize it as much as possible. I wanted to give you all this story of survival and loss, horror and heartache in a way that would allow you to experience it with some measure of emotion. I am not a historian, nor a non fiction writer. My hope is that you leave this novel informed, but not merely with the facts and figures; rather, I want you to be able to actually imagine it, to ask yourself how you would have fared in such terrible times.

I have to say, writing this novel made me hungry. In a very real way, food—its abundance and its lack—was at the very heart of the story. Obviously, the historical section detailed the starvation faced by Leningraders, but food also had a starring role in the contemporary story line. Cooking was Anya’s way of reaching out to her daughters. She was constantly feeding them and cooking for them and begging them to eat. In due time, of course, we discover the truth behind Anya’s obsessions, and by the time we learn the truth, we feel a deep empathy for this woman for whom food was so important.

Before embarking on Winter Garden, I knew very little about Russian food. Oh, I’d had the occasional sip of vodka or taste of caviar, but beyond that, not much. As I wrote the scenes, however, I cooked the food for my family, and I have to say, what a treat it was. In case you’d like add a little ambiance while you’re reading the novel, I’ve included a few classic Russian recipes and one that Nina might have picked up in Africa. Enjoy!

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Msemmen (Algerian Flatbread)

This is one of the most fascinating breads we’ve ever made. The flavor is haunting: an otherworldly combination of richness, salt, and spice. Its color and spiral make it one of our most visually intriguing breads as well. Serve it with North African lamb dishes and other hearty fare.

Makes one 12-inch flatbread

Use the refrigerated pre-mixed whole wheat dough recipe given below.

¼ pound (peach-size portion) of pre-mixed whole wheat dough3 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon ground cumin1 teaspoon paprika1 teaspoon turmeric½ teaspoon cayenne pepper¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional for sprinkling on the top crust2 tablespoons olive oil for the skillet

Mix the 3 tablespoons olive oil with the spices and ¼ teaspoon salt.Dust the surface of the refrigerated dough with flour and quickly shape it into a ball by stretching the surface of the dough around to the bottom on all four sides, rotating the ball a quarter-turn as you go. Flatten the ball with your fingers and then with a rolling pin to about 1/8 inch thick. Evenly spread the spice-oil mixture over the surface of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border, and roll it up into a log. Coil the rope tightly around itself. Place it on a work surface, lightly greased with olive oil and allow it to rest, loosely covered with plastic wrap for 20 minutes.Once the dough has rested, roll the coil out until you have a 1/8-inch thick circle.Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat on the stovetop, until water droplets flicked into the pan skitter across the surface and evaporate quickly. Add t tablespoons olive oil and allow to heat until hot but not smoking.Drop the rolled out dough into the skillet decrease the heat to medium, and cover the skillet to trap steam and heat.Check for doneness with a spatula at 2 to 5 minutes, or sooner if you’re smelling overly quick browning. Adjust the heat as needed. Flip the msemmen when the underside is richly browned. Continue cooking for another 2 to 5 minutes, until the msemmen feels firm, even at the edges, and the second side is browned. You’ll need more pan time if you’ve rolled a thicker msemmen.Allow to cool slightly on a rack before breaking apart and eating.Find this and many other delicious recipes in Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day: 100 New Recipes Featuring Whole Grains, Fruits, Vegetables, and Gluten-Free Ingredients by Jeff Hertzberg, M.D., and Zoë François. Visit www.healthybreadinfive.com, to buy the book and to find recipes, photos, videos, and instructional materials.

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*100% Whole Wheat Bread, Plain and Simple

This is for all the purists, who want nothing to get in the way of the flavor and goodness of whole wheat. We’ve added vital wheat gluten to give the dough a better rise, but it’s otherwise simple and delicious. Try it with whole grain spelt instead of whole wheat if you like.

Makes enough dough for at least four 1-pound loaves. The recipe is easily doubled or halved.

7 cups whole wheat flour (or substitute whole grain spelt)1 ½ tablespoons granulated yeast, or 2 packets (decrease to taste)1 tablespoon kosher salt (increase or decrease to taste)¼ cup vital wheat gluten3 ¾ cups lukewarm water

Mixing and storing the dough: Whisk together the flour, yeast, salt, and vital wheat gluten in a 5-quart bowl, or a lidded (not airtight) food container.Add the water and mix without kneading, using a spoon, a 14-cup food processor (with dough attachment), or a heavy-duty stand mixer (with paddle). You might need to use wet hands to get the last bit of flour to incorporate if you’re not using a machine.Cover (not airtight) and allow dough to rest at room temperature until it rises and collapses (or flattens on top), approximately 2 hours.The dough can be used immediately after the initial rise, though it is easier to handle when cold. Refrigerate it in a lidded (not airtight) container and use it over the next 10 days.

Find this and many other delicious recipes in Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day: 100 New Recipes Featuring Whole Grains, Fruits, Vegetables, and Gluten-Free Ingredients by Jeff Hertzberg, M.D., and Zoë François. Visit www.healthybreadinfive.com, to buy the book and to find recipes, photos, videos, and instructional materials.

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VESELKA’S FAMOUS BORSCHT

Makes about 2 quarts; 8 first- course or 4 to 6 main- course servings

While we cook the beets and the meat on separate days, you can do it all at the same time, as long as you’ve got enough large pots to handle it all. None of the work is very time- consuming, although the individual components simmer for several hours, so you’ll need to pick a time when you’ll be home, though not necessarily in the kitchen. You can easily double or triple this recipe (again, as long as you have large enough pots). And keep in mind that borscht, like most soups, freezes beautifully.

The beets for our borscht are cooked in two separate batches: One batch is used to make “beet water,” a kind of rich beet stock. The remaining beets are cooked and grated. The process may sound a little complicated when you read it, but after you follow the instructions once, the logic will become clear, and I’m convinced that it’s this two-step process that lends our borscht its distinct taste and depth of flavor. You won’t taste the white vinegar much, by the way, but it helps the beets retain the beautiful red color that is their hallmark. Without it, your borscht may take on a brownish tinge. If you are very sensitive to the taste of vinegar, use the full amount to cook the beet water and the beets, but in step 7, add it to the soup in small amounts, tasting in between.

3 pounds (10 to 12) small beets, scrubbed thoroughly but not peeled9 tablespoons white vinegarOne 2- pound boneless pork butt, halved8 cups Beef Stock (page 33)1 bay leaf1 teaspoon whole allspice berries1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns3 large carrots, peeled and sliced3 large celery stalks, sliced1 small head of green cabbage (about 3⁄4 to 1 pound), shredded (about 4 cups)2 medium Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1⁄2- inch diceOne 15- ounce can lima beans, drained and rinsedSalt

To make the “beet water,” roughly chop 2 pounds of the beets (select the smaller ones), preferably in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Place the chopped beets in a large stockpot. Add 10 cups of water and 1 tablespoon vinegar.Place the stockpot over high heat and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 hours. (If it seems like the liquid is evaporating too quickly, you may need to cover the pot partially with an off set lid.) The beets should be extremely soft and the liquid bright red.Strain the liquid, pressing the cooked beets against the side of the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the pulp or reserve to make Beet Salad (page 90). Set aside the beet water. You should have just about 4 cups.Meanwhile, place the remaining 1 pound of whole beets in a separate large stockpot. Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beets are tender- firm, about 40 minutes. When the beets are cooked, add 1 tablespoon white vinegar and set them aside to cool.When the whole cooked beets are cool enough to handle, peel them; the skins should slip off easily. Grate the peeled beets on the largest holes of a box grater or in a food processor fitted with the grating blade.To make the broth, place the pork butt in a large stockpot and add the beef stock. If necessary, add a little more stock or water to cover. Add the bay leaf, allspice berries, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the meat is tender and beginning to fall apart, about 2 hours. Set the pork aside to cool. When the pork is cool enough to handle, remove it from the pot and cut the meat into 1 ⁄2- inch cubes. Strain the broth and discard the bay leaf, allspice berries, and peppercorns. Reserve the cubed meat and 4 cups of the broth.To cook the vegetables, place the carrots and celery in a large stockpot and pour the reserved meat broth over them. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the carrots and celery are just tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cabbage and potatoes and continue to cook until the potatoes and carrots are easily pierced with a pairing knife but keep their shape, 15 to 20 additional minutes. Add the lima beans and cook for 5 additional minutes, just to meld the flavors. Gradually add the remaining 7 tablespoons white vinegar, tasting between additions and stopping when the flavor is to your liking. Remove the soup from the heat and set aside.To compose the soup, in a large soup pot combine the “beet water” and meat broth with the vegetables. Add the cubed pork and the grated beets. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer over low heat. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately.

Variation: We also serve Vegetarian Borscht at Veselka, which is a little lighter and can be a better choice than traditional meat- based borscht when it’s being served as part of a multicourse meal. For Vegetarian Borscht, simply leave out the pork butt, bay leaf, allspice, berries, and peppercorns, and skip step 6. In step 7, cook the vegetables in water or Vegetable Stock (page 36).

Find this and many other delicious recipes in The Veselka Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from the Landmark Restaurant in New York’s East Village by Tom Birchard with Natalie Danford. To learn more or to buy the book, visit http://www.veselka.com/cookbook/.

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POTATO PIEROGI

Makes 65 to 70 pierogi; 8 to 10 servings

This recipe… yields a large amount. You could halve the recipe, but instead I recommend making the full amount and freezing half. Frozen pierogi can be dropped directly into boiling water for cooking; there’s no thawing required. You can also refrigerate the dough for a day or two, so you can make the pierogi in a couple batches…

PIEROGI WRAPPERS

1 large egg yolk1 cup whole milk1 tablespoon vegetable oil3 1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour

TOPPING AND FILLING

4 tablespoons unsalted butter5 cups finely chopped onion4 cups mashed potatoes (leftovers are fine)4 ounces farmer’s cheese2 teaspoons salt1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

TO ASSEMBLE

2 large egg whitesAll-purpose flour, as neededSour cream, for serving

To make the wrappers, in a small bowl, combine the egg yolk, milk, 1 ⁄2 cup water, and the vegetable oil. Whip with a fork for 1 minute. Place the flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the wet ingredients, about one- third at a time, using your fingers or a fork to incorporate the wet ingredients between additions.When you have added all the wet ingredients, use your hands to fold the dough together. If it seems too sticky, add a little more flour, about 1 teaspoon at a time to avoid making it too dry.Transfer the dough to a lightly floured board and knead for 3 minutes. Again, add very small amounts of flour if the dough is too sticky to knead. When the dough is smooth and thoroughly amalgamated, form it into a ball, transfer it to a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Clean and dry your work surface.While the dough is chilling, prepare the topping and filling. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan, then add the onions and sauté over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes.In a large bowl, combine 3⁄4 cup of the cooked onions, the mashed potatoes, farmer’s cheese, salt, and pepper. Set aside at room temperature. Reserve the remaining onions for the topping.When you are ready to roll the dough, in a small bowl combine the 2 egg whites with 2 tablespoons water and set it to the side of your work surface. You will also need a pastry brush, a rolling pin, a teaspoon (the table kind, not a measuring spoon), a fork, and a round cookie cutter about 2 3⁄4 inches in diameter (a jar lid or juice glass will also work). Set aside a floured jelly- roll pan, platter, or cutting board for the finished pierogi as well.Divide the dough into 3 sections. Place 1 section on the work surface, well floured, and roll out to 1 ⁄16 inch. Cut circles of dough with the cookie cutter. Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center of each circle, leaving an empty margin. Brush some of the egg white mixture on half of the outer edge of the circle, and then fold the dough over into a half- moon shape. Crimp the edges with your fingers or with a small fork.As you finish, transfer each pierogi to the floured board or platter. Do not stack them. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.Fill a large stockpot about three- quarters full with salted water and bring to a rolling boil. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, lower the pierogi, three or four at a time, into the boiling water and cook for 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain, and transfer to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining pierogi, allowing the water to return to a full boil each time.When you have cooked all the pierogi, serve them topped with the reserved sautéed onion and as much sour cream as you like.

Variation: For Fried Pierogi, cook them in boiling water as above but for 2 minutes rather than 4, then sauté them in butter until they are golden brown. When making Potato Pierogi for Christmas, leave out the farmer’s cheese in the filling and add a little extra mashed potato.