Winter Gatherings (3 page)

2 tablespoons minced shallots

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

One (14-ounce) ripe Brie in a wooden box, such as Brie de Colummiers (about 5 inches in diameter)

1 baguette, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

• 1.
  For the mushrooms, rinse the porcini in a wire sieve under cold water to remove any dirt. Bring the wine to a simmer in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, add the porcini, and let stand until the mushrooms soften, about 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms from the wine and coarsely chop them. Strain the wine through a wire sieve lined with moistened paper towels into a small bowl. Reserve the wine.
  
• 2.
  Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cremini and shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots and stir until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in the soaked porcini and the strained wine. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The mushrooms can be made up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.)
  
• 3.
  Remove the Brie from the box, reserving the bottom half of the box. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the top rind from the cheese. Return the cheese to the bottom half of the box, cut side up. Mound the mushrooms on top of the cheese. Place the box with the cheese and mushrooms on a baking sheet. (The cheese can be prepared and refrigerated up to 8 hours before baking.)
  
• 4.
  Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Bake until the cheese begins to melt, about 15 minutes. Transfer the cheese in its box to a serving platter. Serve hot, with baguette slices, allowing guests to scoop and spread the cheese and mushrooms onto the bread.
  

Gruyère and Cider Fondue

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Many people serve fondue as a meal, but it is also a lovely appetizer to serve with a light-bodied red wine. Just the sight of a fondue pot over a low flame is bound to warm the insides even before a single bread cube is speared. One thing to remember: a fondue pot is meant to serve, but not actually cook, the fondue, which is best made on the stove.

1 cup hard apple or pear cider

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

4 cups (1 pound) shredded Gruyère

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon Calvados, applejack, or Poire William

Freshly ground black pepper

Cubes of crusty bread, cored and sliced Granny Smith apples or Bosc pears, and sliced grilled kielbasa, for serving

• 1.
  Combine the cider and vinegar in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Stirring to dissipate the bubbles, bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low; the liquid should barely simmer.
  
• 2.
  Toss the Gruyère with the cornstarch in a large bowl to coat the cheese. A handful at a time, whisk the cheese into the simmering cider mixture, whisking until the first batch is melted before adding more. When all the cheese has been added, return the heat to medium and heat just until the fondue bubbles a few times; do not overcook. Remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Season with pepper.
  
• 3.
  Transfer to a fondue pot set on its trivet over the flame. Arrange the bread, apples, and sausage for dipping on a platter. Serve the fondue hot with fondue forks and the platter of dipping ingredients.
  

Chai Eggnog

Makes 4 to 6 servings

I consider it a crime to go through December without at least one glass of eggnog. As it is a staple of the holiday party menu, most recipes are for a crowd, but this makes just enough for a few friends—you can always multiply the ingredients for a larger batch. This recipe came to me when I was sipping a hot glass of aromatic chai, and noted that the combination of spices reminded me of gingerbread, so they would translate beautifully into that winter specialty, eggnog. It doesn’t have any liquor in it, but some dark rum wouldn’t be amiss.

2 cups heavy cream

Three 3-inch cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

9 green cardamom pods, crushed

9 quarter-sized slices fresh ginger

1 teaspoon whole cloves

4 orange pekoe or Darjeeling tea bags

3 large eggs, separated

2/3 cup sugar

• 1.
  Combine the cream, cinnamon, peppercorns, cardamom, ginger, and cloves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing hard on the tea bags. Let cool completely.
  
• 2.
  Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is thickened and pale yellow. On low speed, beat in the cream mixture.
  
• 3.
  Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites in a greaseproof medium bowl with the mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Serve chilled.
  

A Festive Christmas Dinner

Gruyère and Rosemary Gougères (Chapter 1)

Chai Eggnog (opposite)

Mussel and Fennel Bisque (Chapter 2

Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust (Chapter 3)

Potato and Garlic Gratin (Chapter 5)

Fresh green beans sautéed with shallots

Pear Soufflés “Hélène” (Chapter 6)

Orange-Spice Hot Chocolate with Homemade Marshmallows

Makes 4 servings

This is a very grown-up version of that childhood favorite, hot chocolate topped with marshmallows. Most hot chocolate drinks are actually made with cocoa. I prefer this method, which allows me to enjoy the flavor of my favorite eating chocolate. For my taste, I like a semisweet chocolate with about 55% cacao solids (you’ll find this listed on the label of the best brands), but you may vote for a more bitter variety. And if you are a purist, leave out the orange zest and cinnamon, but I think that they add an irresistible wintry aroma and flavor. And, of course, the Homemade Marshmallows make it very special indeed.

8 ounces high-quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

3 cups milk

Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler

Two 3-inch cinnamon sticks

8 to 12 Homemade Marshmallows (Chapter 6)

• 1.
  Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and let stand for 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth.
  
• 2.
  Bring the milk, orange zest, and cinnamon to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the orange zest and cinnamon. Add the melted chocolate and whisk well. Reheat, whisking constantly, until piping hot.
  
• 3.
  Ladle into 4 large mugs and top each with 2 or 3 marshmallows. Serve immediately.
  

SOUPS AND SALADS

Rutabaga and Pear Soup

Escarole and Farro Soup

Jerusalem Artichoke and Mushroom Soup

Chicken, Potato, and Leek Soup

“Stuffed Cabbage” Soup

Moroccan Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Soup

Mussel and Fennel Bisque

Lime and Cilantro Slaw

Roasted Beet and Orange Salad

Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette

Rutabaga and Pear Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

This may sound like an odd combination, but it has become one of my favorite soups for entertaining. Expect a wonderful blend of earthy, sweet flavors from the interplay of rutabaga and pears. And with its deep golden color, this soup visually brightens up a cold winter night.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2/3 cup chopped shallots

2½ pounds rutabaga (otherwise known as waxed yellow turnip), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth

3 ripe Comice pears, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice

1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1.
  Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the rutabaga and stir well. Add the stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer until the rutabaga is tender, about 45 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer about one-third of the pears to a bowl to use as garnish.
  
• 3.
  Add the thyme and the remaining pears to the soup, and simmer for 5 minutes. In batches, puree the soup in a blender. Return to the pot and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, in individual bowls, each garnished with a spoonful of the reserved pears.
  

Turnips and Rutabagas

Most cooks consider root vegetables to be humble ingredients, and turnips and rutabagas have been relegated to the lowest rung. Unimpressive in appearance, their pungent flavor more than makes up for their bland looks. The cabbagelike aroma is a defense mechanism in the plants, but it doesn’t discourage intrepid cooks.

I look forward to using these two vegetables to add spark to my winter cooking. They are most popular when combined with other ingredients to balance their more sulfurous aromas. I often cook them with apples and pears to bring a touch of sweetness, or with starchy potatoes to give them extra body.

Turnips aren’t only appreciated for the bulbous roots, but also for their peppery green tops. The tops are usually trimmed and sold separately. New greens will continue to sprout from the turnips. Turnips with tiny sprouting greens will be older, and their sharpness will be well developed.