Ready for Dessert (28 page)

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

VARIATIONS:
Although wonderful by itself, caramel ice cream is also a perfect base for mix-ins such as chopped chocolate or candy bars, bits of broken caramel, crumbled brownies, or toasted nuts. Stir in 1 to 2 cups (100 to 200 g) just after churning.

I often substitute 1 cup (240 g) of sour cream or crème fraîche for the cream in this recipe. If you use crème fraîche, be sure to cool and freeze the ice cream mixture within a few hours. If you leave it overnight, the crème fraîche’s culture may make the mixture too tangy.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (750 ML)

When you live in San Francisco, it’s likely that at least 50 percent of your friends are real estate agents. One of my realtor friends is whippet-thin because he’s always watching what he eats. But he met his match with this frozen dessert. When he isn’t trying to talk me into buying or selling something, he talks about this gelato. (
see photo
)

People often ask about the difference between ice cream and gelato. As with most things Italian, it depends on whom you ask. But most people agree that gelato has a lower-fat base, which allows the flavors to shine through. This chocolate gelato has no cream and is proof of that theory. As is the waistline of a certain San Francisco realtor.

This gelato is inspired by a recipe from Marcella Hazan.

5 ounces (140 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

½ cup (50 g) unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process

1 cup (250 ml) plus 1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

Pinch of salt

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

4 large egg yolks

Put the chocolate in a large bowl.

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cocoa, 1 cup (250 ml) milk, and the salt. Bring to a full boil, then pour the mixture over the chocolate, scraping the pan clean. Stir until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Set a mesh strainer across the top of the bowl.

In the same saucepan, warm the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) milk with the sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm milk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth.

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (750 ML)

This is the world’s easiest ice cream. It takes literally a minute to put together, and doesn’t require an ice cream maker. You just toss everything in a blender, then pour the mixture into a container and freeze it, so there’s no excuse for even the machineless not to enjoy homemade ice cream. The one caveat is that the generous amount of alcohol is necessary to prevent the ice cream from freezing too hard. The good news is that all that booze means you don’t have to share your ice cream with the kids.

6 ounces (170 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280 ml) whole or low-fat milk

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280 ml) Irish cream liqueur, such as Bailey’s Irish Cream

3 very ripe medium bananas, peeled and cut into chunks

3 tablespoons (45 ml) dark rum

In a small heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate and milk. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat.

Pour the liqueur into a blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add the bananas, rum, and the melted chocolate mixture and purée until smooth.

Pour the mixture into a shallow plastic container, cover, and freeze until solid enough to scoop, at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (1 LITER)

The first time I went to Mexico, I had no idea that ice cream was such a popular treat there. I had always associated ice cream with Italy, France, and the United States. Who knew?

During that first trip, and more than a few subsequent ones, I made it a point to try the more unusual flavors, like ice cream flavored with cheese, smoked milk, and kernels of corn, and even fried ice cream (which was delicious!). But as much as I enjoyed trying new ice creams, I always found myself going back to chocolate.

Here’s a recipe inspired by those coarse chunks of chocolate for sale in Mexico. They taste nothing like the disks of Mexican “drinking chocolate” sold in America, which are mostly sugar and rather skimpy on the chocolate. For this ice cream, use real chocolate and add freshly ground cinnamon for the best flavor.

3 ounces (85 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

2½ ounces (70 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream

3 tablespoons (45 ml) brandy

1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 large egg yolks

1 cup (135 g) almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped

In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolates, cream, and brandy. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and set a mesh strainer across the top.

In a medium saucepan, warm the milk, sugar, and cinnamon, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm milk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth.

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Stir the almonds into the just-churned ice cream when you remove it from the ice cream machine.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (1 LITER)

Some folks tell me they don’t like white chocolate. “It’s not chocolate!” they’ll say with a bit of smug certitude. True, but that’s like saying “I don’t like Champagne because it’s not white wine.” Both have merits and to say you don’t like one because it isn’t the other isn’t very logical.

I fall into the camp of white chocolate lovers. To convince people of how good white chocolate can be, I often make ice cream with it and add fresh ginger for spicy contrast. And if that’s not enough, I stir in shiny, dark chocolate-covered roasted peanuts to give it nice crunch. If anyone still has any resistance to white chocolate, I call it their loss and am happy to eat the ice cream all by myself.

WHITE CHOCOLATE-GINGER ICE CREAM

3-inch (8-cm) piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced

½ cup (100 g) sugar

1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

1 cup (250 ml) plus 1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

7 ounces (200 g) white chocolate, chopped

4 large egg yolks

CHOCOLATE COVERED PEANUTS

5 ounces (140 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

1 cup (150 g) unsalted roasted peanuts

To make the ice cream, put the ginger slices in a medium saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Pour off the water. Add the sugar, milk, and 1 cup (250 ml) cream. Heat the mixture until warm, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour.

Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the ginger slices, then reheat the cream mixture until it’s warm.

Put the white chocolate in a large bowl and set a mesh strainer across the top.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warmed milk mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan.

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the chocolate and stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Add the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) cream.

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

To make the chocolate covered peanuts, add the chocolate to a medium heatproof bowl, set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and smooth.

Line a dinner plate with plastic wrap or parchment paper. Remove the chocolate from the heat, add the peanuts, and stir until coated, then spread the mixture on the plate. Refrigerate until firm, then chop into small pieces.

Freeze the custard in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Stir the chopped chocolate covered peanuts into the just-churned ice cream when you remove it from the ice cream machine.

VARIATIONS:
White chocolate-ginger ice cream made without the chocolate covered peanuts is terrific served with summer fruit desserts, such as
Nectarine-Berry Cobbler
. Or, for an extra dose of spiciness, you can replace the chocolate-covered peanuts with ½ cup (50 g) finely chopped
Candied Ginger
.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (1 LITER)

My parents were pretty strict with desserts. I wasn’t completely deprived, but sweets were few and far between. (I’ve since made up for lost time.) One treat they did keep on hand was a bag of store-bought pecan shortbreads, which were quite thick, had a sandy texture, and seemed a bit more sophisticated and “adult” than most other supermarket snacks. Whenever these cookies were in the house, I ate as many as I could and left a seriously plundered bag for my parents to discover.

Times have changed and I’m sure the quantity of pecans in those cookies has dwindled since the good ol’ days. Now that I’m all grown up, I can enjoy pecans in any way I choose, and that doesn’t mean just pecan shortbread, but also this rich pecan-studded ice cream.

6 tablespoons (75 g) granulated sugar

¾ cup (170 g) packed dark brown sugar

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) unsalted or salted butter, cut into pieces

½ cup (125 ml) plus 1½ cups (375 ml) heavy cream

¾ cup (180 ml) half-and-half or whole milk

½ teaspoon salt

6 large egg yolks

1½ cups (150 g) pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

To make the butterscotch mixture, spread the granulated sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat without stirring until the sugar begins to melt around the edges. Using a heatproof utensil, slowly drag the liquified sugar to the center and stir gently until all the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the brown sugar, butter, the ½ cup (125 ml) cream, the half-and-half or milk, and salt. The mixture will steam and bubble up vigorously, then the bubling will subside.

Pour the remaining 1½ cups (375 ml) cream into a large bowl and set a mesh strainer across the top.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm butterscotch mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the cream.