A Beautiful Bowl of Soup (6 page)

In eating we experience a certain special and indefinable well-being.

—Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

A dark reddish-brown chili with an earthy sweet flavor and mild heat, anchos are one of the most widely used dried chilies. They are made from the fresh heart-shaped poblano chilies that grow throughout central Mexico. Adjust the amount of jalapeño in the salsa to make the assertiveness of the composed dish just right for you.

Makes 8 cups (8 servings)

2 ancho chilies (see Tips)

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup coarsely chopped onion

½ cup coarsely chopped carrot

¼ cup coarsely chopped celery

6 cups vegetable stock

½ cup dry red wine (optional)

1 large orange-fleshed sweet potato (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks (about 2¼ cups)

1 large russet potato (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks (about 2¼ cups)

1 cup finely diced Granny Smith apple at room temperature

¼ cup toasted chopped pecans

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon minced fresh red jalapeño chili, or to taste

½ cup coarsely chopped jarred roasted red bell pepper

¼ cup sour cream or crème fraîche

˜ milk, as needed

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 cup milk

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

Rinse the ancho chilies; put them in a small bowl and cover with hot water (just below the boiling point). Soak until softened, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the chilies; remove the stems, rinse to remove the seeds, and coarsely chop.

Stir in the vegetable stock, wine (if using), potatoes, and chilies. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir together all the ingredients in a medium bowl; adjust the seasoning to taste.

Purée the bell pepper and sour cream in a blender; if necessary, stir in milk so the mixture has a cake-batter consistency. Season to taste. Transfer the cream to a plastic squeeze bottle, if available.

When the potatoes are done, purée the soup in several batches in a blender until smooth.

Return the soup to the pan.

Add the milk and stir occasionally over medium heat until heated through. Season to taste.

Top each serving with a scoop of salsa. Surround with swirls of the cream mixture.

Refrigerate the soup and cream mixture in separate covered containers for up to 3 days. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or milk to thin as desired. Prepare the salsa just before serving.

Substitute Cilantro-Pistachio Cream for the roasted red pepper cream.

TIP

The best dried chilies are sun dried, as stated on the package label; oven drying may make the skins bitter. Dried chilies will keep indefinitely in a tightly closed container in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight.

Baby Gouda has a mild, nutlike flavor, and it melts into a buttery-textured soup that’s perfect for an elegant first course. For a traditional Dutch accent, accompany the sumptuous soup with dark bread.

Makes 4 cups (4 to 6 servings)

2 ripe pears, cored, peeled, and coarsely chopped

1½ cups vegetable stock

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger (see Tip)

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ unpeeled red-skinned pear, cored and julienned

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons minced toasted walnuts

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped dried cranberries (optional)

˜ dash of freshly grated nutmeg

to complete the recipe

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

4 ounces baby Gouda cheese, cut into small pieces (about ¾ cup)

½ cup pure apple juice or sweet white wine such as Sauternes

˜ salt and ground white pepper to taste

˜ freshly grated nutmeg for garnish

Combine the pears, vegetable stock, ginger, and nutmeg in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the pears are very tender, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Stir together all the ingredients in a small bowl; set aside.

In a separate small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the flour and stir until smooth, about 1 minute. (Do not let it brown.) Remove from the heat. Gradually whisk in the milk. Place the pan back on medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to simmer. Reduce the heat to low and stir constantly until thickened, about 4 minutes. Add the cheese and stir until melted, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Purée the pear mixture in a blender until smooth. Add to the cheese sauce and stir constantly over low heat until heated through. Gradually stir in the apple juice and continue to heat, but do not let the soup come to a boil. Season to taste.

Top each serving with a sprinkling of nutmeg and a mound of salsa.

This soup and the salsa are both best when made just before serving.

Substitute aged or smoked Gouda for the baby Gouda.

TIP

Fresh mature ginger should be firm, with a smooth brown skin and no soft spots. To test for freshness, break off one of the knobs; if the ginger is fresh, it will break with a clean snap. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Peel before using and mince ginger well so the flavor will be distributed evenly in the dish. Ground dried ginger does not have the same distinctive flavor and should not be substituted for fresh in cooked recipes; it can be used in baked goods.

Great food is like great sex—the more you have, the more you want.

—Gael Green

This distinctive rich and creamy soup was inspired by a favorite peanut sauce. A friend shared the recipe with me over lunch on a South Pacific cruise. Just making it conjures up fond memories of a sunny deck, sensuous breezes, and the bright blue sea.

Makes 4 cups (4 to 6 servings)

¼ cup sweetened flaked coconut

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

¼ cup finely chopped fresh ginger

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 14-ounce can “lite” coconut milk

¾ cup vegetable stock, or as needed

¾ cup smooth natural peanut butter (see Tips)

¼ cup mango chutney (see Tips)

1 tablespoon minced fresh jalapeño chili, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

¼ cup finely chopped green onions (green parts only)

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

˜ Asian sesame oil (see Tips) for garnish

Toast the coconut in a small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion and ginger are very tender, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the onion mixture to a blender. Add the coconut milk, vegetable stock, peanut butter, chutney, and jalapeño; purée until smooth. (It may be necessary to add more vegetable stock if the peanut butter is very thick.)

Transfer the soup to the Dutch oven and stir occasionally over medium heat until heated through. Season to taste.

Meanwhile, toss together the coconut, green onions, and cilantro. Drizzle each serving with sesame oil and top with a mound of the coconut mixture.

Refrigerate this soup and the toasted coconut in separate covered containers for up to 3 days. When reheating the soup, stir in water to thin as desired.

TIPS

Buy natural peanut butter with oil on the top; stir in the oil before using. Many processed peanut butters are hydrogenated to prevent separation and have sugars, salt, and stabilizers added.

Chutney is a mixture of fruit and/or vegetables, often cooked with vinegar, sugar, and spices. Usually made with mango, chutney is found in most supermarkets; look for it shelved with either the condiments or dressings.

Buy dark, amber-colored Asian sesame oil, made from toasted sesame seeds, rather than light-colored sesame oil, which is extracted from raw sesame seeds and lacks the distinctive strong aroma and nutty flavor. Purchase toasted sesame oil in the Asian section of supermarkets or in Asian markets. After opening, store it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to 6 months.

All good cooks learn something new every day.

—Julia Child

Vegan recipe if olive oil is substituted for the butter

This full-bodied soup is thickened with cooked winter vegetables, not cream. For an elegant touch, top the soup with sherried mushrooms or a drizzle of truffle oil (see Tips) and garnish with the feathery fennel fronds. Accompany with Gruyère Cheese Crisps to add crunch.

Makes 9 cups (8 servings)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

1 orange-fleshed sweet potato (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks (about 2 cups)

1 russet potato (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks (about 2 cups)

2 celery stalks with leaves, coarsely chopped

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

½ cup coarsely chopped onion

1 fennel bulb, quartered and thinly sliced (see Tips)

6 cups vegetable stock, or as needed

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

mushrooms

2 tablespoons olive oil

2½ cups (6 ounces) sliced cremini mushrooms

2 cloves garlic, minced

¾ teaspoon sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian

1 tablespoon dry sherry

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

3 cups (about 3 ounces) stemmed and coarsely shredded fresh spinach

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

˜ sprigs of fennel fronds for garnish

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the corn, potatoes, celery, carrot, onion, and fennel. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the vegetable stock, thyme, and bay leaves. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and paprika; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the sherry and lemon juice; stir gently until the liquid is nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Season to taste. Cover to keep warm.

Remove the bay leaves from the soup. In several batches, purée the soup in a blender until smooth.

Return the soup to the pan. Add more vegetable stock if needed.

Add the spinach and simmer over medium heat until it is wilted, about 5 minutes. Season to taste.

Top each serving with the mushrooms and a sprig of fennel fronds.

This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock to thin as desired. The mushrooms are best when made just before serving.

Omit the sherried mushrooms; garnish the soup with finely shredded Gruyère cheese and a drizzle of truffle oil (see Tips).

TIPS

Truffles, the highly prized fungi most abundant in France and Italy, have an earthy aroma and rich, subtle flavor with nutty undertones. But fresh truffles are very expensive and hard to find. Truffle oil, available in many gourmet shops, is wonderful drizzled over bread, salads, pasta, or vegetables. Store the oil in the refrigerator for up to 1 year.

Fresh fennel (also called finocchio) looks like a flattened bunch of celery with a large, white, bulbous base and feathery green fronds. To use the bulb, cut off the stalks and discard the bottom end. Cut the bulb in half lengthwise and slice it crosswise into crescent-shaped slices. The stalks are fibrous, with little use other than adding to stocks. The foliage can be used as a garnish or snipped like dill to use for flavoring. Fennel’s distinct licorice flavor becomes milder when the vegetable is cooked.

I never eat when I can dine.

—Maurice Chevalier

Fresh Tomato–Orange Soup with Fig Quenelles

Black Bean Soup with Mango Salsa

Red Lentil Soup with Pita Croutons

Arborio Rice Soup

Moroccan Chickpea Soup with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis

Farina Dumpling Soup

Wild Rice-Cranberry Soup

Asparagus-Leek Soup

Ratatouille Soup

jalapeño–Corn Chowder

Tortilla Soup with Avocado-Corn Salsa

Caramelized Onion Soup with Herbed Goat Cheese Toasts

Cashew Chili

Broccoli-Cheese Soup with Caraway Bread Crumbs

Asian Noodle Soup with Spinach and Corn

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

Miso Soup

Greek Spinach and Orzo Soup

Tomato-Lentil Soup

Minestrone with White Beans

Ribollita

Pumpkin Stew

Indian Cumin-Scented Coconut Milk Stew with Basmati Rice

Moroccan Red Lentil–Bean Stew

Mediterranean Saffron Stew with Rouille

Cashew-Carrot Stew

Acorn Squash and Fava Bean Stew with Bulgur Wheat

Summer Stew with Couscous

Roasted Vegetable Stew

Spicy Green Bean and Potato Stew

Egyptian Split-Pea Stew

Chunky soups with lots of vegetables are substantial and satisfying, especially when the vegetables are cut by hand and not a food processor, so the pieces are neat and even, in similar shapes and sizes.

The cooking time of these recipes depends on how soft you like your vegetables. Here, some are simmered in the stock, others roasted in the oven and then added to the soup. Roasting concentrates a vegetable’s flavor, while simmering integrates it into the soup. Take care when stirring chunky soups so that the vegetables, especially broccoli florets, don’t get broken.

Chunky vegetable soups can be made more robust with the addition of rice, pasta, beans, or nuts, such as Cashew-Carrot Stew.

Stews are prized for their slow-cooked goodness. My favorite is Pumpkin Stew, baked in a pumpkin for an easy and spectacular presentation.

Stew served over grains, such as bulgur wheat or couscous, are so chunky you’ll want to eat them with a fork. The same holds true for ribollita, minestrone baked with layers of bread, a traditional Tuscan meal made with humble, wholesome ingredients.

These soups benefit from garnishes, which add color and flavor as well as panache.

One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.

—Virginia Woolf

Vegan recipe if quenelles are omitted.

Sherry and figs balance the fresh, bright flavors of juicy tomatoes and fresh-squeezed orange juice in this surprising soup. Serve it warm or chilled. When tomatoes are not in season, use quality canned or aseptically packaged ones, a better alternative than underripe or flavorless tomatoes.

Makes 5 cups (4 to 6 servings)

quenelles

4 dried figs, stemmed

1 teaspoon cream sherry

¼ cup crème fraîche

¼ teaspoon sugar

6 large ripe tomatoes (about 3 pounds), peeled and coarsely chopped (see Tips)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

1½ cups vegetable stock, or as needed

˜ pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh basil

½ cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar, or to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

Put the figs in a small saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain the figs and coarsely chop. Purée in a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Form into 4 or 6 ovals by pressing the mixture into a tablespoon with your fingers. Set aside.

Put the chopped tomatoes in a sieve set over a bowl; set aside to drain. Reserve the juice.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Add vegetable stock to the tomato juice so the liquid equals 1½ cups; pour into the pan and add the red pepper flakes (if using). Tie the thyme and basil together with kitchen twine; immerse in the soup. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the onion is very tender, about 15 minutes.

Remove the herbs and discard. Stir in the orange juice, brown sugar, pepper, and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Divide the soup among 4 or 6 shallow bowls. Place 1 quenelle in each serving.

This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Serve chilled or reheat. Refrigerate the quenelles in a covered container for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.

Substitute one 28-ounce can tomatoes for the fresh tomatoes. Drain the tomatoes, reserving the juice; combine the juice with vegetable stock as needed to equal 1½ cups liquid.

TIPS

Store unwashed tomatoes, stem-end down, at room temperature. Do not refrigerate; temperatures below 55° F make tomatoes spongy and destroy their flavor.

To peel a tomato, first core it with a paring knife, removing the stem end and white center. Cut an X on the bottom of the tomato, carefully piercing just through the skin. Using a slotted spoon, plunge the tomato into boiling water just long enough to loosen the skin without cooking the tomato (about 5 seconds for a very ripe tomato, or 10 to 20 seconds for a firmer tomato). Remove the tomato with the slotted spoon and immediately plunge it into a bowl of ice water; let stand for about 1 minute. This will stop the tomato from cooking and further loosen the skin. Drain and let cool to the touch. Use a paring knife to peel away the skin.

Eating well gives a spectacular joy to life.

—Elsa Schiaparelli

Vegan recipe

Sweet and juicy mango is an unexpected, colorful, and refreshing complement to the bold, spicy flavors of chunky bean soup.

Makes 4 cups (4 servings)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar

1 ripe mango, cut into
³
/
₈
-inch dice (see Tip)

2 tablespoons minced red onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon minced fresh jalapeño chili, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onion

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

3 cups vegetable stock

½ cup fresh orange juice

1 15-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

¹
/
₈
teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

Combine the lime juice and brown sugar in a medium bowl, whisking until the sugar is dissolved. Gently stir in all the remaining salsa ingredients. Set aside at room temperature to allow the flavors to blend.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cumin and coriander; stir for about 30 seconds.

Stir in all the remaining ingredients, except the salt. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

Transfer 1 cup of the beans and liquid to a blender and purée until smooth. Stir the puréed mixture into the soup. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Serve in shallow bowls (to prevent the salsa from sinking to the bottom of the bowl) and top each serving with a mound of the salsa.

This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Refrigerate the salsa in a covered container for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature before serving.

TIP

Mangos are usually sold quite firm; ripen, uncovered, at room temperature, turning occasionally. Refrigerate ripe fruit in a plastic or paper bag for up to 3 days.

A ripe mango is difficult to cut neatly because the pulpy flesh is very juicy and clings to the flat pit. The simplest method is to stand the mango upright on a cutting board and slice slightly off center through the flesh on one of the flatter sides, curving around the seed. Repeat on the other side to make 2 disklike portions, plus a center section with the seed. Place one mango half, skin-side down, on a cutting board or in the palm of one hand. Score the flesh all the way to the skin in a checkerboard pattern, cutting to but not through the outer skin. Carefully push up the skin side to expose cubes of flesh. Then cut the mango cubes from the peel. For the center section, slice off the skin, then cut the flesh away from the seed or enjoy the juicy, sweet center over the sink.

When I have eaten mangoes, I have felt like Eve.

—Rose Macaulay

Vegan recipe, depending on ingredients in pitas (check package label)

This fragrant recipe was inspired by shorbet adds, an Egyptian soup that is sold by street vendors in Cairo. Served with fried onions and pita croutons, it’s a great main course. Red lentils do not retain their lovely salmon color when cooked, but they’re still delicious. Take care not to overcook them; they should be tender but not mushy.

Makes 7 cups (6 to 8 servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups finely chopped onions

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

8 cups vegetable stock

1¾ cups dried red lentils

2 carrots, finely chopped

½ cup coarsely chopped celery leaves

˜ pinch of red pepper flakes

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

garnishes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 pita pocket breads, halved horizontally (see Tip)

6–8 lemon wedges

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin and coriander; stir for about 30 seconds.

Stir in 6 cups of the vegetable stock, the lentils, carrots, celery leaves, and red pepper flakes. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 cups of stock and the lemon juice. Season to taste.

Adjust the oven rack to 4 to 5 inches from the broiler heating element; preheat the broiler. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until very tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Place the pita halves on a baking sheet; toast under the broiler until crispy and light brown, about 2 minutes per side. Let cool, then break into 1-inch pieces.

Top each serving with a mound of the cooked onion and sprinkle with the pita croutons; serve a lemon wedge on the side.