A Beautiful Bowl of Soup (7 page)

This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or water to thin as desired. Store the pita croutons for up to 5 days in a tightly covered tin at room temperature.

Substitute brown lentils for the red lentils; increase the cooking time to about 35 minutes, or until the lentils are tender.

TIP

Mediterranean or Greek pitas are sometimes called pita pocket breads; the breads can be cut to form 2 pockets or can be split horizontally to make 2 thin rounds. Lebanese pita bread has no pocket and cannot be split horizontally; it is served as a flat bread. Check package labeling to be certain you select the appropriate bread to suit your use.

Lentils without onions are like a dance without music.

—Greek proverb

Vegan recipe if cheese garnish is omitted

Arborio rice is an Italian short-grain, high-starch rice used in risotto, Spanish paella, and rice puddings because the grains impart a creamy texture. Use any orange-fleshed winter squash in this soup; they are all sweet and creamy when cooked.

Makes 5 cups (4 servings)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onion

1 celery stalk with leaves, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

2½ cups (6 ounces) sliced cremini mushrooms (see Tips)

½ cup Arborio rice (see Tips)

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, or ½ teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

4 cups vegetable stock

1 16-ounce acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice (about 2 cups)

1 teaspoon thin strips lemon zest

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

˜ very thin slices of pecorino Romano cheese (see Tips) for garnish

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, celery and leaves, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms; continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the rice and rosemary; stir until coated with oil. Add the vegetable stock, squash, and lemon zest strips. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice and squash are tender, about 12 minutes.

Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste. Serve topped with cheese.

This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or water to thin as desired.

TIPS

Cremini mushrooms (sometimes labeled “Italian brown mushrooms”) are more flavorful and have a denser, less watery texture than ordinary white mushrooms. Portobello mushrooms are larger, matured cremini.

Mushrooms are like sponges and will absorb water. Some pros advise cleaning them with a paper towel or soft brush. Others recommend a quick rinse just before using. Don’t store mushrooms in plastic (it traps moisture), but in paper bags or between paper towels in the refrigerator. Also, keep them away from strong-flavored foods because they will pick up odors.

It’s important not to rinse Arborio rice before cooking. Rinsing will wash away the starch necessary to create the creamy texture.

Taking their name from the city of Rome, there are several different styles of Romano cheese. The best known is the sharp, tangy imported pecorino Romano, which is made with sheep’s milk. Most domestic Romanos are made of cow’s milk, or a combination of cow’s milk and goat’s or sheep’s milk. The cheeses are very firm and used most often for grating.

Vegan recipe

Inspired by hummus, the flavor-packed Middle Eastern spread, this soup is best served with traditional wedges of fresh Lebanese pita bread or Toasted Pita Triangles, the
crispy version
.

Makes 4 cups (4 servings)

coulis

¼ cup coarsely chopped jarred roasted red bell pepper

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon sugar

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 carrots, cut into ¼-inch dice

¾ cup finely chopped onion

½ cup finely chopped red bell pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

¾ teaspoon ground cumin

1 15-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed (see Tips)

3 cups vegetable stock

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

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teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

˜ salt to taste

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs for garnish

˜ coarsely cracked black pepper (see Tips)

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor or blender and process, pushing down the sides occasionally, until smooth and creamy; set aside to allow the flavors to blend.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the carrots, onion, bell pepper, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. Add the cumin; stir for about 30 seconds.

Meanwhile, purée the chickpeas, 1 cup of the vegetable stock, and the lemon juice in a blender until smooth.

Stir the puréed mixture into the soup, then add the remaining 2 cups stock and all the other ingredients, except the minced parsley and garnishes. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the minced parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Top each serving with a swirl of the coulis, a sprinkling of cracked pepper, and a sprig of parsley.

Refrigerate this soup and the coulis in separate covered containers for up to 5 days. When reheating the soup, stir in vegetable stock to thin as desired. Bring the coulis to room temperature before serving.

TIPS

Chickpeas are often sold canned as garbanzo beans, and they are sometimes called ceci beans.

Freshly ground or cracked whole dried peppercorns are more flavorful than preground pepper because, once cracked, the peppercorn immediately releases much of its oil, thus losing aroma and taste. The best pepper grinders have settings for both coarse and fine grinds. For extra-coarse chunks of pepper, crack the peppercorns by pressing them firmly on a cutting board with the side of a chef’s knife. Always buy the largest peppercorns available because their longer growing time gives them a fuller flavor.

Vegan recipe if dumplings are omitted and soup is made with pasta

These light and tender dumplings have become a family favorite ever since my friend Marie Wintergerst shared the recipe that nourished her children and is still requested when they return home as adults.

Makes 6 cups with 12 dumplings (4 to 6 servings)

dumplings

1 egg, lightly beaten

¼ cup regular (not instant) Cream of Wheat

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

6 cups vegetable stock, or as needed

˜ salt to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 carrots, cut into ¼-inch slices

½ cup coarsely chopped onion

6 cups vegetable stock

2 celery stalks with leaves, thinly sliced

2 plum tomatoes, cut into ½-inch chunks

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons snipped fresh dill, or ½ teaspoon dried dill (see Tips)

1 bay leaf (see Tips)

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Stir together the egg, Cream of Wheat, and vegetable oil in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. To cook, bring a medium saucepan of salted vegetable stock to a boil over high heat. Drop the batter by scant teaspoonfuls (the dumplings will be irregular in shape) into the stock. Reduce the heat; simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the dumplings expand and are cooked through. When they are done, use a slotted spoon to transfer the dumplings to a plate; cover to keep warm. Discard the stock.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the carrots and onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the vegetable stock. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Stir in all the remaining ingredients. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf and season to taste.

For each serving, place 2 or 3 dumplings in a soup bowl and ladle the hot soup over them.

This soup and the dumplings will keep for up to 3 days in separate covered containers in the refrigerator. It’s easiest to assemble individual servings of the soup with dumplings and reheat in the microwave. Or, reheat them together in a Dutch oven for no longer than 10 minutes, taking care not to break the dumplings apart.

TIPS

Dill is a sharply aromatic herb with a mild, lemony taste. When using fresh dill, cut the feathery dill tips with scissors. Dried dill is acceptable, but it is stronger than fresh, so use it in moderation.

Bay leaf is an aromatic herb that comes from the evergreen bay laurel tree, native to the Mediterranean. Fresh leaves are seldom available, but dried bay leaves can be found in the herb section of most supermarkets. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Since overuse will make a dish bitter, use them in moderation to flavor soups and stews, and be sure to remove before serving.

Wild rice, which is actually an aquatic grainlike seed rather than a rice, grows in marshy bogs, lakes, and rivers. Wild rice is a favorite in Minnesota, where I live, especially around the holidays, when it is appreciated for its nutty flavor. In this soup it is paired with tart-sweet cranberries and sherry to add elegance.

Makes 5 cups (4 to 6 servings)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

½ cup finely chopped onion

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups vegetable stock

1½ cups cooked wild rice (see Tip)

½ cup dried cranberries

1 cup milk or half-and-half

2 tablespoons dry sherry (optional)

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

˜ Fried Sage or minced fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, and onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrot is tender, about 8 minutes.

Add the flour and stir until smooth. Gradually add the vegetable stock, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir until the soup is thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and cranberries. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries are softened and plumped, about 15 minutes.

Stir in all the remaining ingredients, except the garnishes. Stir occasionally until warmed through. Season to taste.

Sprinkle each serving with pepper and sage.

This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in milk to thin as desired.

TIP

To cook wild rice, first rinse it in a strainer under cold running water or in a bowl of water; drain. Bring 2 cups water, ½ cup rice, and ½ teaspoon salt to a boil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the rice kernels are opened and slightly chewy rather than mushy, 45 to 55 minutes; drain well. Makes about 1½ cups.

This luxurious soup is one of my favorite first courses. To trim asparagus, hold a stalk and snap it at the point where it naturally gives easily. This eliminates the woody, tough end, while keeping the tender top, the best part.

Makes 5 cups (4 to 6 servings)

1 pound asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch lengths (about 4 cups)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1½ cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

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cup finely chopped red bell pepper

˜ salt to taste

2½ cups (6 ounces) sliced cremini mushrooms

3 leeks (white parts only), halved lengthwise, rinsed, and cut into
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-inch slices (see Tips)

½ teaspoon curry powder

2 cups vegetable stock

2 cups milk

4 teaspoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons cold water

˜ salt and ground white pepper to taste (see Tips)

Steam the asparagus in a covered steamer over boiling water until crisp-tender. Or, put the asparagus in a microwave-proof dish and add about ¼ cup water. Cover tightly and microwave on high for about 4 minutes. Drain well; set aside.

Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and bell pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add salt to taste. Set aside.

Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and leeks; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder; stir for about 30 seconds. Add the vegetable stock, milk, and asparagus. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir occasionally as the liquid comes to a simmer, then reduce the heat to medium.

Stir together the cornstarch and cold water in a small bowl until smooth; stir into the soup. Cook, stirring constantly, until the soup is smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Season to taste.

Top each serving with about 2 tablespoons of the corn mixture.

This soup is best the day it is prepared, but it will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or milk to thin as desired.

TIPS

Leeks look like overgrown green onions and have a mild onion-and-garlic flavor. Select those with crisp, bright green leaves and unblemished white bulbs. Buy the smallest in the market; leeks under 1½ inches in diameter are the sweetest and most tender. Refrigerate them in a perforated plastic bag for up to 1 week. Before using, trim the rootlets, tough green tops, and coarse outer leaves; use the white base and up to 1 inch of the pale green part attached to the white. To remove the grit and sand trapped between the many layers, cut the leek lengthwise and slice or chop; swish the pieces around in a bowl of warm water. When the dirt settles to the bottom of the bowl, lift out the clean pieces.

Peppercorns are berries that grow in grapelike clusters on a climbing vine. Black peppercorns are picked when the berries are not quite ripe; when dried, they turn from dark brown to black. White peppercorns have been allowed to ripen, after which the skin is removed and the berries are dried. They are smaller, smoother skinned, and have a milder flavor than black peppercorns. White pepper is often used in light-colored foods where the specks of black pepper would stand out. Whole dried peppercorns can be stored in a cool, dark place for about 1 year; ground pepper remains flavorful for about 4 months.

Vegan recipe if cheese garnish is omitted

This thick and chunky ratatouille soup is hearty and satisfying. Serve it hot or chilled, accompanied with thick slices of crusty French bread, wedges of pita bread, or Toasted Pita Triangles.

Makes 6 cups (4 to 6 servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, cut into ¼-inch strips (about 1 cup)

1 eggplant (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips (see Tip)

1 zucchini, cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips (about 1 cup)

1 cup chopped green beans in 2-inch lengths (about 4 ounces)

½ green bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 15-ounce can tomato sauce

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tomatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

˜ salt to taste

˜ shredded Cheddar, Monterey Jack, or Parmesan cheese for garnish

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until it is translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the eggplant, zucchini, green beans, bell pepper, and garlic. Sprinkle the vinegar over the vegetables. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.

Stir in the tomato sauce, oregano, dried basil (if using), sugar, and pepper. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, over low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.

Stir in the vegetable stock, tomatoes, and fresh basil (if using), and salt. Increase the heat to medium; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes are tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Garnish each serving with cheese.

Eat some, leave some; remember tomorrow.

—Jamaican proverb

This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock, water, or tomato juice to thin as desired.

TIP

Eggplants, which are actually a fruit, not a vegetable, are available in many varieties; the most common is pear-shaped with a smooth, glossy dark purple skin. Under the skin, most varieties are pretty much alike and are interchangeable in recipes. Because eggplants become bitter with age, it’s best to select smaller, young fruits, which do not require salting and rinsing before using. Press gently on the flesh; if the eggplant is ripe, it will spring right back. If a dent remains, it is past its prime. Store eggplant in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator and use within a day or two of purchase. Since the flesh discolors rapidly, cut the eggplant just before using.

Although we think of corn as a Midwestern summer vegetable, it’s actually grown year-round in Florida, the number-one sweet corn–producing state. (California is second.) Nothing beats corn eaten the same day that it’s picked, in its prime, before the sugar begins to turn to starch. But when garden-fresh corn is unavailable, frozen corn will do.

Makes 5 cups (4 to 6 servings)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup coarsely chopped onion

1 carrot, coarsely shredded

½ red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

1 celery stalk with leaves, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 cups vegetable stock

2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

1 large russet potato (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice (about 2¼ cups)

½ fresh jalapeño chili, cut in half lengthwise and seeded (see Tips)

1 cup milk

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

˜ dash of hot chili sauce and finely shredded Cheddar cheese for garnish

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, bell pepper, celery and leaves, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the vegetable stock, corn, potato, and jalapeño. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the potato is tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove the jalapeño chili and discard. Transfer 2 cups of the soup mixture to a blender and purée with the milk. Return the puréed mixture to the soup.

Heat, stirring occasionally, until warmed through. Season to taste.

Garnish each serving with a sprinkling of chili sauce and a small mound of cheese.

This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or milk to thin as desired.

TIP

A chilie’s heat depends on its capsaicin content, found in its veins inside the flesh. Unaffected by heat or cold, capsaicin retains its potency through cooking or freezing. Removing the ribs and seeds before using chilies is a way to reduce the heat. Or, you can soak them in heavily salted water for several hours. Small chilies have more membranes and seeds than large ones, so generally they are hotter.

To avoid irritation from the caustic oils in chilies, do not touch your eyes, nose, or lips while handling them. Many cooks wear disposable plastic gloves when working with hot chilies. Afterward, wash your hands, knife, and cutting board in hot, soapy water.

People have tried and they have tried, but sex is not better than sweet corn.

—Garrison Keillor

Vegan recipe, depending on ingredients in tortillas (check package label)

Salsa and chips in a bowl. This is a soup for kids who want to eat their favorite snack for dinner. When it’s available, I like to make the salsa using white shoepeg corn (see Tip) because I like its sweet flavor.

Makes 5 cups (4 servings)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeño chili, or to taste

2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon sugar

1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into ½-inch dice

¼ cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

2 tablespoons minced red onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, or to taste

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup coarsely chopped onion

½ red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped

1 celery stalk with leaves, coarsely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

3 cups vegetable stock

1 15-ounce can stewed tomatoes

1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans or black beans, drained and rinsed

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

˜ pinch of red pepper flakes, or to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

˜ salt to taste

tortilla strips

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 6-inch corn tortillas, halved and cut into ¼-inch strips

Whisk together the oil, lime juice, jalapeño, garlic, and sugar in a small bowl. Gently stir in the avocado, corn, red onion, and cilantro. Season to taste; set aside.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and leaves, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cumin; stir for about 30 seconds.

Stir in the vegetable stock, tomatoes, beans, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the parsley and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the tortilla strips in a single layer. Cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until the strips are lightly browned and crispy, about 10 minutes. Transfer the strips to a plate lined with a paper towel.