A Beautiful Bowl of Soup (14 page)

Vegan recipe

I like the aromas and flavors of this light, simple dessert best when it is served warm, but if you prefer, serve warm soup over room-temperature pears or chill both components. Buttery-rich Rosemary Shortbread is a lovely accompaniment.

Makes 2 cups (4 servings)

1½ cups water

¾ cup sweet white wine, such as Sauternes or sweet Riesling

¹
/
₃
cup sugar

2 ¼-inch-thick orange slices

4 whole cloves

4 Bosc, Bartlett, or Forelle pears, cored and peeled

3 ½-inch-thick fresh ginger slices

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon aniseed, or 2 star anise pods

1 whole clove

2 cups pear nectar

˜ sprigs of fresh mint for garnish

Combine the water, wine, sugar, orange slices, and cloves in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat; simmer for 5 minutes. Add the pears; simmer, turning occasionally, until they are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Wrap the ginger, bay leaf, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, aniseed, and clove in a cheesecloth square and tie with kitchen twine. Pour the pear nectar into a small saucepan; add the cheesecloth bag. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and let the broth steep if you want a stronger spice flavor.

To serve, place a pear upright in the center of a dessert bowl. (Even the bottom of the pear if necessary, so it will stand up straight.) Ladle the soup into the bowl. Insert a mint sprig into the center of the pear.

This soup and the pears will keep for up to 1 day in separate covered containers in the refrigerator.

If you prefer, leave the stems intact when coring the pears.

TIPS

Most pears develop a better flavor and smoother texture when ripened off the tree, so buy them while they are firm and ripen them for 2 to 7 days on your kitchen counter in a loosely closed paper bag or a covered fruit-ripening bowl. To speed ripening, add an apple or banana to the container. Because they ripen from the inside out, most pears do not show ripeness with a color change. Pears used for cooking or baking should be slightly underripe. For eating, the flesh should give slightly to gentle pressure. Once ripe, refrigerate unwashed pears in a plastic or paper bag for up to 3 days.

Aniseed, a member of the parsley family, has a distinctive, sweet licorice flavor. Star anise, commonly used in Asian cuisines, is the star-shaped dark brown pod of a small evergreen tree in the magnolia family. It, too, has a licorice flavor.

A good cook is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness.

—Elsa Schiaparelli

Panna cotta is Italian for “cooked cream.” Traditionally, it is a light custard. Here, it’s flavored with pumpkin and apricot brandy and served as a dessert soup.

Makes 3½ cups (6 servings)

1 15-ounce can pumpkin purée

1 cup heavy cream, half-and-half, or milk

½ cup milk

½ cup sugar

¼ cup apricot brandy

˜ crème fraîche (see Tip), thinned with milk, and crumbled gingersnaps for garnish

Purée the pumpkin, cream, milk, and sugar in a blender. Stir in the brandy.

Refrigerate in a covered container until chilled, about 3 hours, before serving. (The mixture will thicken.)

Serve garnished with swirls of crème fraîche and crumbled gingersnaps.

This soup will keep for up to 2 days in a covered container in the refrigerator.

TIP

Crème fraîche is a thickened cream, sold in the dairy section of gourmet markets and some supermarkets. It’s smooth and rich, with a tangy and slightly nutty flavor. As a substitute, whisk together equal amounts of sour cream and heavy cream until thickened.

Herbed Garlic Croutons

Buttered Croutons

Roasted Acorn Squash Soup Bowls

Basil Pesto

Basil Pesto Butter

Sun-Dried Tomato–Goat Cheese Bruschetta

Rosemary Shortbread

Toasted Pita Triangles

Cheese Sticks

Gruyère Cheese Crisps

Fried Sage

Here are some little extras that will add flavor and crunch to your soup courses. They are quick to prepare and add a personal touch. In lieu of ordinary bread try Sun-Dried Tomato–Goat Cheese Bruschetta. Instead of store-bought crackers, try Gruyère Cheese Crisps, Toasted Pita Triangles, or mouthwatering Rosemary Shortbread.

Herbed Garlic Croutons and Buttered Croutons are great ways to use leftover bread, and they are better than the packaged ones any day.

Many excellent artisan breads are now available. With Italian-inspired soups, serve a crusty Italian loaf with Basil Pesto Butter. And add flair by serving your soup in Roasted Acorn Squash Soup Bowls.

Remember, too, that your table setting adds to the dining experience; select plates, bowls, silverware, and a bread basket that reflect your personality and sense of style.

Vegan recipe, depending on ingredients in bread (check package label)

Great on warm Roasted Butternut Squash Soup or chilled Chunky Gazpacho, these crunchy rustic croutons add flavor and texture.

Makes 2 cups

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced (see Tip)

½ teaspoon dried basil

½ teaspoon dried oregano

2 slices whole-wheat bread, cut into ½-inch cubes (2 cups)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, basil, and oregano; cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is softened, about 30 seconds.

Add the bread cubes and stir constantly until lightly browned and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the moistness of the bread. Transfer to a plate to cool.

These croutons will keep for up to 2 days in a tightly covered tin at room temperature. If stored in a plastic container, they’ll become soggy. To recrisp, spread them on a baking sheet and heat in a preheated 350° F oven for about 5 minutes.

TIP

Throughout the centuries, garlic, a member of the lily family, has flavored soups, stews, and bread, and been taken for any number of ailments, from toothaches to infertility. Look for plump, fresh bulbs that have not sprouted. Store them unwrapped in a cool, dark place; avoid refrigeration, which promotes rotting. Do not use powdered, dried, or jarred garlic if a recipe calls for fresh.

The more fresh garlic is cooked, the milder it becomes. Roasting produces a mild, sweet, and nutty flavor; boiling, a mild flavor; sautéing, a moderately strong flavor with more bite than boiled garlic but with less intensity than raw garlic.

There are five elements: earth, air, fire, water, and garlic.

—Louis Diat

Shaped croutons will add whimsy to your soups and make your guests smile. Use cookie cutters to cut bread slices into circles, moons, stars, hearts, diamonds, or whatever suits your fancy or theme.

Yield is variable

2–3 thin slices day-old white or whole-wheat bread

2 tablespoons freshly grated(finely) Parmesan cheese

¼ teaspoon sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian

˜ dash of salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

Slice off the crusts and cut the bread into shapes using cookie cutters. Combine the cheese, paprika, and salt into a small brown paper bag or heavy-duty plastic container with a lid. Shake to blend. Set aside.

Melt the butter with the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when sprinkled into the pan, add the bread shapes. Use tongs to turn them and fry until they are evenly browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drain the croutons on a paper towel–lined plate.

While the croutons are still hot, drop them into the paper bag or plastic container. Close the bag or cover the container and shake until the croutons are evenly coated.

These croutons will keep for up to 2 days in a tightly closed tin at room temperature.

Dining is and always was a great artistic opportunity.

—Frank Lloyd Wright

Vegan recipe

Roasted acorn squash looks lovely and tastes fabulous when scooped up with spoonfuls of soup, such as Pumpkin Stew, Greek Spinach and Orzo Soup, or Arborio Rice Soup.

2 bowls per squash

1 large acorn squash (see Tip)

˜ canola or olive oil for brushing

˜ salt for sprinkling

˜ warm soup for serving

Preheat the oven to 375° F. Cut the acorn squash in half horizontally. Scoop out the seeds and discard. Use a spoon to remove any strings and to smooth out the insides. Cut a very thin slice off the bottoms to make a stable base. Brush the insides and tops with oil and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Place the squash halves, cut-side down, in a lightly oiled baking pan. Pierce the skin in several places with a fork. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the flesh is fork tender.

Place the roasted squash on a plate or set in a soup bowl. Fill with warm soup and serve immediately.

TIP

Though it is available year-round, winter squash is best from early fall through the winter months. When selecting winter squash such as acorn squash, look for a firm squash that feels heavy for its size and has no soft spots. Winter squash does not require refrigeration; store it in a cool, dark, dry, and well-ventilated place for up to 1 month.

Vegan recipe

I always have pesto on hand. At the end of the growing season, I pinch the leaves from my basil plants to make this aromatic blend. Basil pesto can add lots of flavor to soups. It can also be mixed with butter for a flavorful spread for bread or used to make bruschetta.

Makes ½ cup

1½ cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves (see Tip)

¼ cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

˜ dash of salt

Process all the ingredients in a food processor until coarsely puréed. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides as needed.

This pesto will keep for up to 1 week in a covered container in the refrigerator; pour a thin film of olive oil on top of the pesto to prevent discoloration. For longer storage, spoon the mixture, in 2-tablespoon quantities, into foil-lined mini-muffin tins; cover tightly with aluminum foil and freeze. Once frozen, remove the foil-wrapped packets and store for up to 3 months in a freezer bag. To use, thaw in the refrigerator overnight or remove from the foil and thaw quickly in a microwave.

TIP

To store fresh herbs, wrap the stem ends in a moist paper towel and refrigerate in a sealed plastic bag. Or, place the bunch, stems down, in a glass of water and cover with a plastic bag, securing the bag to the glass with a rubber band; change the water every 2 days. With proper storage, fresh herbs will last for about 5 days, but for the best flavor, use them within 2 or 3 days. Just before using, wash fresh herbs in cool water, then dry them with paper towels or in a salad spinner.

This mixture of unsalted butter and basil pesto makes a lovely spread on crusty artisan bread to accompany your soups.

Makes
¹
/
₃
cup

4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature (see Tip)

¼ cup Basil Pesto

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Stir together the butter and pesto in a small bowl until smooth; season to taste. Transfer to a small serving bowl.

Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until firmer.

This spread will keep for up to 1 week in a covered container in the refrigerator.

TIP

Unsalted butter is labeled as such. Because it contains no salt, which acts as a preservative, it is more perishable than salted butter and may be found in the freezer section of some supermarkets. At home, wrap it tightly in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and freeze for up to 6 months.

Honest bread is very well—it’s the butter that makes the temptation.

—Douglas Jerrold

These warm open-faced sandwiches are a staple in Italy. The term comes from the Italian bruscare, meaning “to roast over coals,” and the traditional garlic bread is made by rubbing slices of toasted bread with garlic cloves, then drizzling the bread with extra-virgin oil and holding over an open fire. It can be topped with a wide variety of ingredients or simply sprinkled with coarse salt and pepper.

Makes 4 servings

8 ½–to ¾-inch slices rustic Italian bread or French baguette cut on an extreme diagonal (day-old is fine)

˜ halved garlic cloves for rubbing

1 plum tomato, cut into ¼-inch dice (see Tips)

2 tablespoons minced oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained (see Tips)

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil (or you can use some of the drained oil from the sun-dried tomatoes)

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

˜ dash of salt, or to taste

3 tablespoons fresh white goat cheese (chèvre)

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Position the oven rack to 4 to 5 inches from the broiler heating element; preheat the broiler.

Arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet. Lightly toast under the broiler, about 1 minute per side. The bread should be golden brown and crisp on the outside, chewy and soft on the inside.

Rub one side of each warm slice with cut garlic; the more you rub, the stronger the flavor.

Stir together the plum tomato, sun-dried tomatoes, olive oil, basil, pepper, and salt in a small bowl.

Spread the bread slices with the goat cheese and top with the tomato mixture; sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Broil until the cheese is melted, about 1½ minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

The bread can be toasted early in the day. The tomato topping will keep for up to 1 day in a covered container in the refrigerator. Bring the topping to room temperature; assemble and broil the bruschetta just before serving.

Rather than rubbing the toasted bread with garlic, spread it with Basil Pesto. Omit the basil in the tomato topping.

TIPS

Plum, or Roma, tomatoes have thick, meaty walls, small seeds, little juice, and a rich, sweet flavor. They are the best choice for recipes that benefit from less juicy tomatoes that retain their shape after being chopped or sliced.

For this recipe, use a jar of oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes. Drain off the excess oil before using. (The oil can be saved, refrigerated, and used in recipes calling for olive oil, especially recipes with tomatoes as an ingredient.) Refrigerate the jar of tomatoes for up to 2 weeks after opening.

Bread is like dresses, hats, or shoes—in other words, essential.

—Emily Post

This tender and crispy shortbread makes a buttery-rich and not-too-sweet accompaniment to light soups. I think it’s especially enjoyable with Berry-Wine Soup and Gingered Pear Soup, and I know my guests agree.

Makes 1 shortbread (about 36 pieces)

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature

¼ cup sugar

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, sifted

˜ pinch of salt

1 tablespoon minced fresh (fresh is essential) rosemary

Use an electric mixer to combine the butter and sugar in a medium bowl; mix on low speed just until combined and not fluffy, about 30 seconds. Add the flour and salt all at once; mix on low speed just until the mixture barely holds together, about 30 seconds. Add the rosemary, beating briefly until evenly combined. (The dough will look slightly lumpy.)

Using the back of a measuring cup or spoon, press the dough into a 9-inch square pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until fairly firm.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 300° F. Pierce the dough several places with a fork. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the shortbread is just firm but not at all brown. (If it browns, it will be overbaked.) Let cool in the pan on a wire rack.

To serve, cut the shortbread into squares, strips, or diamond shapes. Carefully remove them from the pan with a small metal spatula. (The shortbread is fragile and breaks easily.)

Store this shortbread in the pan; cover lightly and refrigerate or keep at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Vegan recipe if cooked in oil, not butter (also depending on ingredients in pitas—check label)

Serve these in place of store-bought crackers. They are crisp, appetizing, and addictive.

Makes 24

2 6-inch white or whole-wheat pita pocket breads

2 tablespoons olive oil or melted unsalted butter

1 teaspoon dried oregano (see Tip)

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Position the oven rack 4 to 5 inches from the broiler heating element; preheat the broiler.

Slice the pita breads in half horizontally. Place the halves on a baking sheet, rough-side up. Using a pastry brush, lightly spread them with olive oil, then sprinkle with the oregano and Parmesan cheese. Use kitchen shears to cut each pita half into 6 triangles.

Place the triangles in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil until they are lightly browned and the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes. Watch closely! (The triangles will become crisper as they cool.)

Pita triangles are best when prepared just before serving; serve warm or at room temperature. Refrigerate extras for up to 2 days in a covered container. To recrisp, spread them on a baking sheet and heat in a preheated 350° F oven for about 5 minutes.

Substitute other dried herbs, such as basil or tarragon, for the oregano.

TIP

When stored in a tightly closed tin or glass container in a dark, dry place, dried herbs will remain flavorful for about 1 year; it’s a good idea to date them. They should resemble the color they were when fresh and should not be dull or brownish-green.

To get the most flavor out of dried herbs, crumble them between your fingers to release the aromatic oil as you add them to your recipes.

Flaky, crisp, and cheesy, these are simple to make and rustic pretty. If you haven’t worked with puff pastry before, begin by reading the
directions
.

Makes 20

1 egg

½ cup freshly grated (finely) Parmesan cheese

½ cup finely grated sharp Cheddar cheese

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds (see Tips)

1 teaspoon sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian (see Tips)

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon ground pepper

1 frozen puff pastry sheet (8 to 10 ounces), thawed

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Lightly beat the egg in a small bowl. Combine the cheeses, sesame seeds, paprika, oregano, thyme, and pepper in another small bowl.

Unroll the puff pastry on a lightly floured board, one long side toward you. Using a pastry brush, brush the top side with the egg. Sprinkle with half of the cheese mixture. Fold the bottom half of the dough over the cheese. Using a rolling pin, roll gently away from you to make the pastry layers stick together and to spread the dough into a 10-by-8-inch rectangle. Brush the top surface with the egg and sprinkle with the remaining cheese mixture.

Using a sharp knife or pizza wheel, cut the pastry vertically into twenty ½-inch-wide strips. Twist each about 4 times into spirals as you place it on a baking sheet, pressing the ends down to hold the strip in place. Position the strips at least 1 inch apart.

Bake for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Use a spatula to remove the sticks from the baking sheet. Serve warm, or let cool on a wire rack.

The unbaked cheese sticks can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Or, wrap them tightly in aluminum foil and freeze for up to 1 month; defrost before baking. These are best when served fresh from the oven but can be kept for up to 1 day in a tightly covered container at room temperature.

TIPS

Toasting gives sesame seeds a slightly crisp texture and a nutty flavor. Put the seeds in a dry skillet over medium-high heat and toss or stir constantly until they are lightly browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately transfer the seeds to a bowl. It takes the same amount of time to toast 1 tablespoon or ½ cup, so toast extra seeds, store them in an airtight container, and refrigerate or freeze for up to 6 months.

Paprika is made from ground dried sweet red peppers. Most paprika comes from Spain, South America, California, or Hungary; the Hungarian variety is considered by many to be the best. Hungarian paprika comes in three levels of heat: mild (also called “sweet”), hot, and exceptionally hot. To preserve its color and flavor, paprika should be stored in a cool, dark place for no longer than 6 months.