Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (36 page)
Read Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects Online
Authors: Amy Butler
FIGURE 6A, B, C
FIGURE 6D-01
FIGURE 6D-02
FIGURE 6E-01
FIGURE 6E-02
Step 6. Attach the zipper onto the exterior of the clutch.
(SEE
FIGURE 6A, B, C
FOR STEPS a, b, AND c)
a.
First, with the zipper in the closed position, match up the
Wrong
sides of the zipper tape at the top of the zipper and pin them in place. Stitch a
1
/
4
″ seam across the matched ends, backstitching at each end.
b.
Measure 25″ down on the zipper coils and make a mark. Place your machine to the widest zigzag stitch and stitch in place back and forth across the coils at the mark. Do not hit the zipper coils with your needle.
c.
Using your ruler and chalk pencil, starting at the top of the zipper coils, measure down the right side on the zipper tape and make a mark at the following increments: 6
1
/
4
″ and 18
1
/
4
″. Repeat this step to mark the zipper tape on the left side of the coils. (These measurements are where the corners of the clutch will be. It is important that the corners on both the front and back of the clutch turn at the same marks, so the clutch will open correctly.)
d.
Unzip the zipper and place the exterior checkbook clutch in the open position with the Timtex side facing up and the ruffled side of the exterior to your left. Center the
Right
side of the sewn-together top of the zipper tape onto the 1″ spine, placing the tape
1
/
8
″ in from the folded edge, and pin it in place. Attach the top of the zipper by stitching along the inside edge of the tape, across the finished edge on the spine. This will then line up the top of the zipper coils at each of the creases for the spine on the Timtex side of the clutch. Then, using your scissors, clip into the zipper tape at each end of the stitch line to turn the tape
Right
side facing out, making sure not to clip the stitching.
(
FIGURES 6D-01 AND 6D-02
)
e.
Flip the zipper down on the Timtex side of the exterior clutch so the
Right
side of the zipper is facing up. Starting on the left side of the clutch (the side with the ruffle attached) on the left side of the clip at the top of the zipper tape, push the zipper tape under the coiled edge toward the outside edge of the clutch so the
Right
side of the tape is facing up. Place the edge of the tape
1
/
8
″ in from the seam attaching the ruffle to the exterior of the clutch. Starting at the crease on the spine, pin the tape in place. Turn the zipper tape at the first corner (6
1
/
4
″ mark) slightly rounding the corner, and continue to pin the tape
1
/
8
″ in from the seam attaching the ruffle to the exterior clutch down to the second corner (18
1
/
4
″ mark). Slightly round off the corner and finish pinning the tape across the last side, stopping at the crease for the spine. Then repeat this process for pinning the other side of the zipper
1
/
8
″ in from the outside edge on the Timtex side of the back of the clutch. (The corners should turn at the same marks on the front and back of the clutch.)
(
FIGURES 6E-01 AND 6E-02
)
f.
Open up the flap on the back of the clutch to keep it out of your way when stitching the zipper in place. With the clutch still in the opened position, starting at the top of the zipper on the Timtex side of the back of the clutch, stitch along the edge on the
Right
side of the zipper tape, starting and stopping at each end of the crease for the spine, backstitching at each end. Now, turn the checkbook clutch and stitch along the edge on the
Right
side of the zipper tape on the ruffled side of the clutch.
g.
Push the rest of the bottom end of the zipper flat along the spine, toward the inside of the clutch. Slip stitch
*
the zipper tape to the Timtex by hand along the spine to secure it in place.
(REFER TO
FIGURE 6E-01
)
*
See page 171
for an explanation of slip stitching.
h.
Now, remove the machine-basting on the front and back of the exterior of the clutch. Set the exterior of the clutch aside.
(
FIGURE 6H
)
Step 7. Measure and mark to make the inside pockets on the lining panel.
a.
Center the interfacing panel with the fusible side down onto the
Wrong
side of the lining panel, leaving
3
/
4
″ of the
Wrong
side of the lining panel showing completely around the interfacing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the interfacing onto the lining panel.
b.
Starting with the top raw edge of the lining panel on the right side, measure and mark down both side raw edges of the lining panel at the following increments: 6
1
/
4
″, 9
3
/
4
″, 13
3
/
4
″, 17
1
/
4
″, 19
3
/
4
″, 21
3
/
4
″, 24
1
/
4
″, 26
1
/
4
″, 28
3
/
4
″, 30
3
/
4
″, 38
1
/
2
″, and 42″. (You will be folding the lining panel like an accordion at these measurements.)
(
FIGURE 7B
)
Step 8. Make the credit card pocket compartments.
NOTE:
You will make the credit card pockets first because you will be making smaller compartments from these larger pocket sections.
a.
Starting on the
Right
side of the lining panel, fold the lining
Right
sides together at the 19
3
/
4
″ marks. Press a crease across the folded edge on the
Wrong
side of the lining panel. Topstitch
*
a
1
/
4
″ seam across the folded edge on the
Wrong
side of the panel.
*
See page 172
for an explanation of topstitching.
b.
Then, fold the lining panel
Wrong
sides together at the 21
3
/
4
″ marks. Press a crease across the folded edge on the
Right
side of the lining panel. Topstitch a
1
/
4
″ seam across the folded edge on the
Right
side of the panel.
c.
Follow the instructions in step 8a to fold the lining panel at the 24
1
/
4
″ and 28
3
/
4
″ marks.
d.
Follow the instructions in step 8b to fold the lining panel at the 26
1
/
4
″ and 30
3
/
4
″ marks.
(
FIGURE 8D
)
e.
Lay the folded panel so the openings of the pockets are facing the top raw edge of the lining panel, and pin the folds in place. Then, machine baste a
1
/
2
″ seam down both sides of the panel to hold the folded pockets in place.
f.
To make the credit card pocket compartments, measure across the top finished edge of the first folded pocket and mark the following increments: 4
1
/
2
″ and 8
1
/
2
″. Then, measure and mark the same increments 3
1
/
4
″ down from the top edge of the first pocket.
g.
Using your ruler and chalk pencil, match up the first 2 coordinating marks (4
1
/
2
″) and draw a vertical line between them. Repeat this step to match up and draw a vertical line between the second set of marks (8
1
/
2
″). Then, line up the marks for the second set of increments that you made 3
1
/
4
″ down from the top finished edge of the first pocket and draw a horizontal line connecting them across the width of the lining panel. These guidelines are the stitching lines to make the credit card compartments.