Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (45 page)

c.
Follow the instructions in steps 10a and 10b to attach the other end of the lining side panel to the second lining end panel.

d.
Follow the instructions in steps 10a through 10c to attach the second lining side panel to the lining end panels.

e.
Now, follow the instructions in steps 8 and 9 to attach the lining bottom panel to the lining side and end panels.

f.
Turn all unfinished raw edges of the lining
¹
/
₂
″ toward the
Wrong
side and press.
(FIGURE 10F)

Step 11. Attach the lining to the bag.

a.
First, turn the bag
Wrong
side out.

b.
With the
Wrong
side of the bag facing out and the
Right
side of the lining facing out, slip the bag into the lining so that the
Wrong
sides are facing each other.

c.
Match the folded top edges of the lining to the seam lines on the
Wrong
side of the bag and pin it in place.

d.
Using a hand needle and coordinating thread, slip stitch
*
the lining to the
Wrong
side of the bag by hand.
(FIGURE 11D)

*
See page 171
for an explanation of slip stitching.

e.
Turn the completed bag
Right
side out, using a turning tool to push out the corners, and press.

Step 12. Make and insert the cardboard into the bottom sleeve.

a.
Place the bottom sleeve panels with
Right
sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin along both long edges and along one short end.

b.
Now, stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam along the pinned edges, leaving one short end open for turning.

c.
Clip the 2 corners on the stitched short end, making sure not to clip the stitching.

d.
Then, turn the bottom sleeve
Right
side out, using a turning tool to push out the corners, and press flat.

e.
Insert the 4
³
/
₄
″ × 14
³
/
₄
″ piece of heavy cardboard into the bottom sleeve.

f.
Turn under the raw edges of the short open end
¹
/
₂
″ toward the
Wrong
side, tucking the raw ends inside the sleeve to hide the cardboard, and press. Slip stitch the opening closed by hand.

g.
Place the bottom sleeve into the bottom of the bag for support.

Step 13. Make and attach the zipper charm.

a.
First, using the pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book, cut 2 circles with a diameter of 2
¹
/
₂
″ from the exterior fabric.

b.
Then, place the circles with
Right
sides together and stitch around the outer edge with a
¹
/
₄
″ seam, leaving a 1″ opening for turning the charm
Right
side out.

c.
Trim the seam to
¹
/
₈
″.

d.
Turn the charm
Right
side out.

e.
Fill the charm with polyfill, stuffing the charm firmly.

f.
Now, thread the leather string through the zipper pull on the bag. Tie an overhand knot in the loose ends of the charm and insert the knotted end of the leather into the 1″ opening in the charm and pin it in place.

g.
Turn the raw ends under
¹
/
₄
″ toward the
Wrong
side at the 1″ opening and slip stitch a few stitches through the leather and the charm by hand, just enough to hold the leather in place.

h.
Then, machine stitch across the opening to close the seam and secure the leather.
(FIGURE 13H)

SIMPLE TECHNIQUES AND BASIC EQUIPMENT

To help you understand the terms and techniques used in the projects in this book, here is a quick reference list of the technical terms and phrases.

BACKSTITCH:
Backstitching is used to reinforce your sewing in order to help keep it from unraveling. To do this, put your machine in the reverse position and stitch 3 or 4 stitches.

BIAS FOLD:
See
fabric grain.

BONING:
A plastic stiffening material used to support your project and keep it from curling up, boning is sold by the yard or precut in packages.

BUTTONHOLE:
To make a buttonhole you first need to measure the button you will be using. For example, if your button is
¹
/
₂
” wide, you will make the sides of the buttonhole (not including the top and bottom finished ends) measure
¹
/
₂
”. Once you have figured out where you need to place your buttonhole, measure and mark the width of the button on your project with a chalk pencil. If you do not have a buttonhole setting or foot on your sewing machine, just use the following alternative method for making a buttonhole:

Using the zigzag setting on your sewing machine, make a bar tack (this means using the widest zigzag stitch and stitching a few times in place) at the top of the buttonhole measurement on your project with a tight and wide zigzag stitch. Sew back and forth a few times, and then set your zigzag on a tight, narrower stitch to sew the first side of the buttonhole. At the bottom of the first side, reset the stitch for a tight, wide bar tack, and sew a bar tack again at the bottom. Then reset the stitch for a tight, narrow zigzag, and sew up the second side of the buttonhole. Set your stitch width to zero and sew a couple of stitches in place to “lock” the zigzag stitches and finish the buttonhole. Carefully cut the buttonhole open with a seam ripper.

CLIPPING:
Clipping allows some give in your seam allowance, especially if it’s curved, in order to make the seam lie flat and make it easier to turn your project
Right
side out. When clipping, use your scissors to cut into the seam allowance only, making cuts up to the stitch line, taking care not to cut your stitching.

CROSSWISE GRAIN:
See
fabric grain
.

DOT ON THE PATTERN PIECES:
To use the dot marked on a pattern piece, first transfer the dot onto the
Wrong
side of the fabric piece by marking its position with your chalk pencil. Dots are used in a few ways. First, when you are stitching trim pieces together you can use it to indicate your stopping point for your stitching. Second, it can serve as the point where you will pivot and turn your project before you continue stitching. Finally, it can identify where you should end a clip (see
clipping
, above) in order to allow you to turn your project
Right
side out.

DRAWSTRING:
To make a drawstring, follow the instructions below:

A.
Fold the drawstring strip in half lengthwise, with
Wrong
sides together, and press a crease at the fold.

B.
Open the drawstring strip and fold each long, raw edge in to meet the center crease, and press.

C.
Then, at each short end of the drawstring, fold under
¹
/
₄
” to
¹
/
₂
” toward the
Wrong
side and press.

D.
Now, fold the strip in half at the center crease, enclosing all of the raw edges, and press well. Pin the folded edges together and edge stitch close to the folded edges completely around your drawstring.

E.
You may like to sew a small button or two to each end of the drawstring for detail.

EDGE STITCH:
An edge stitch is a very narrow stitch, done by machine close to the edge, in order to finish a project, close an opening, or stitch something in place. For example, you would use edge stitching when sewing a piece of Velcro in place.

FABRIC GRAIN:
Most fabric is made using a set of fixed lengthwise threads woven at right angles with a set of crosswise threads.
Grain
indicates the direction of these threads.
Lengthwise grain
(also called
straight of grain
) refers to the lengthwise threads, or the fabric’s length, and runs parallel to the selvage edge.
Crosswise grain
refers to the crosswise threads, or the fabric’s width, and runs across the fabric.
Bias
refers to any diagonal line crossing either the lengthwise or crosswise grain. In this book,
bias fold
refers to the diagonal fold of a rectangle of fabric to align one selvage edge (or an edge cut on the lengthwise grain) with one edge cut on the crosswise grain, producing a 45-degree-angle fold.

FINGER PRESS:
You can “press” open the seam allowance of a seam using your finger or thumbnail to form a crease on fabric that cannot be pressed or is in a tight area where the iron will not fit.

GATHERING STITCH:
Using the longest stitch on your machine and loose bobbin tension enables you to pull the bobbin thread and gather in your fabric.

GRAIN:
See
fabric grain
.

HAND STITCH:
See
slip stitch
.

INTERFACING:
A stiffening, fabriclike material used to give your project strength and durability. Interfacing also gives lighter-weight fabrics form and body. There are different types of interfacings, including fusible (press-on) and sew-in interfacings, both of which come in various weights. If you buy fusible interfacing, make sure to ask for directions to correctly apply the interfacing.