Read Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects Online
Authors: Amy Butler
Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (46 page)
LENGTHWISE GRAIN:
See
fabric grain
.
MACHINE APPLIQUÉ:
Use a tight zigzag stitch to nicely finish the edge of a shape that you are attaching or appliquéing to your project.
MACHINE BASTE:
A machine basting stitch is used to hold sections of your project in place until you are ready to complete your final stitches. Use the longest stitch on your machine, so you can easily remove these basting stitches later. You do not have to backstitch at the end of your stitching.
PIVOT:
Pivoting is used when you reach a corner or any place where you want to turn and continue stitching in a different direction. To pivot, stop stitching (but keep your fabric in place in the sewing machine) with your needle in the down position, pick up the presser foot, and rotate or move your fabric to continue stitching in a different direction.
PRESHRINK:
Wash and dry your fabric to allow for any shrinkage before cutting out your project. We always recommend that you preshrink your fabric, since you will be laundering your project after use. It is important to preshrink because most cotton and other natural fibers will shrink when laundered, which could change the shape of your project.
PRESS:
For best results, press your fabrics before you cut out and sew your project, and as you are constructing your project. Pressing before you cut out your fabric pieces removes wrinkles, which could distort your pattern, and pressing your seams as you make your project can give your project a smooth, professional look.
REINFORCEMENT STITCH:
This form of stitching is done to add strength and support to specific areas in your project, such as at the end of a clip, or in a spot that will take a lot of wear.
SEAM, STITCHING A
1
/
4
” (OR ANY OTHER LENGTH):
Stitching a
1
/
4
” seam simply means stitching a seam that is
1
/
4
” in from the edge of 2 aligned fabrics or parts of a project, in order to join them. The seam allowances, or fabric extending from the stitching line to the edge, can be pressed open or to one side, as indicated in the project directions.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
See
seam, stitching a
1
/
4
”
.
SEAM RIPPER:
A tool with a sharp, hooked tooth used for removing previously sewn stitches or opening buttonholes. For example, a seam ripper may be used to remove a stitched hem line or to take out stitches that are in the wrong place.
SELVAGE EDGE:
The narrow, tightly woven finished edge along each side of the lengthwise grain of your fabric.
SLIP STITCH:
A slip stitch is a hand stitch used to join 2 adjacent pieces or edges of fabric. To slip stitch, you will need a long piece of thread and a sharp hand-sewing needle. Follow the instructions below:
A.
Feed one end of the thread through the eye of the needle, doubling it back on itself and matching up the cut ends.
B.
Then, tie a double overhand knot near the matched ends of the thread.
C.
Starting at one end of the area you will be stitching, insert your needle into your fabric and pull the thread through until the knot stops the thread from going completely through the fabric.
D.
Then, insert the needle into one of the 2 edges you are stitching together, right above the point where the thread went through the first time, catching only a few threads on the fabric. Pull the thread through until it is taut.
E.
Now insert the needle into the other edge going through about
1
/
2
” of the fabric, hiding the thread inside a fold. Push the needle through the fabric and again pull the thread taut.
F.
Insert the needle back into the first edge, slightly above the point where the thread came through, and stitch through again. Again, catch only a few threads and stitch through to the other edge.
G.
Repeat this step until you have stitched your fabric together as indicated in your pattern, keeping even spaces between stitches.
H.
To finish, tie off your stitching by making a double knot close to the fabric, and cut your excess threads to free your needle.
STAY STITCH:
Stay stitching is sewn in the seam allowance before construction to stabilize curved or slanted edges so the fabric on these edges does not stretch.
STITCH IN THE DITCH:
This stitching, done either by machine or hand as indicated in the pattern instructions, is sewn in the groove formed by the seam. Make sure to line up any seams underneath so both seams will be sewn through neatly.
STRAIGHT OF GRAIN:
See
fabric grain
.
TEMPLATE:
A pattern piece used for tracing or for marking guidelines.
TIMTEX:
A thick, stiff stabilizer used to add support and help projects keep their shape. Timtex is machine washable. After laundering, press your project back into shape with a steam iron, and then allow it to dry, supporting it with wadded-up tissue paper or a folded towel to keep the shape that you want.
TOPSTITCH:
Topstitching is used for several purposes. It finishes your project and gives it a neat appearance; it is used to close openings left for turning your project
Right
side out; and it can be used as a reinforcement stitch, by adding another row of stitching to areas that will be used heavily and receive more wear. To topstitch, stitch parallel to an edge or another seam for the distance suggested in the project directions.
TRIM THE CORNERS:
This is a great finishing technique used to add shape and definition to corners on your project. Use your scissors to cut off the tip of the corner in the seam allowance in order to take out the bulk. Be careful not to cut into your project or your stitching. Once you turn your project
Right
side out, your corner will have a neat, squared-off look.
TRIM THE SEAM ALLOWANCE:
This technique reduces bulk around curved seams, so that they will lie flat when you turn the project
Right
side out. Use your scissors to cut off most of the excess fabric in the seam allowance. Be sure to press out these areas once you’ve turned them
Right
side out.
TURNING TOOL:
A turning tool is a pointed object such as a closed pair of scissors that can be used to push out the corners on your project after you’ve turned it
Right
side out. Specially made turning tools, usually constructed of plastic or wood, are available at sewing and fabric stores. When using a turning tool, push out the corners
gently
, especially if you’re working with delicate, lightweight fabric.
RESOURCE GUIDE
For a selection of the finest niche fabric retailers please visit my Web site,
www.amybutlerdesign.com
, and search under
“Where to Buy”
to find a retailer near you.
Through these purveyors you’ll find not only my fabric designs from Kokka Ltd., some of which I used for the projects in this book, but also thousands of beautiful sewing and home-decor fabrics.
ABC CARPET AND HOME
881–888 Broadway
New York, NY 10003
212-473-3000
Collections of exotic home-decor fabrics
ANTHROPOLOGIE
1700 Sansom Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103-5214
800-309-2500
Stores nationwide and mailorder catalog
Wonderful selection of fashion and home goods. A great source of textiles with lovely prints, perfect for repurposing.
BRITEX FABRICS
146 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
415-392-2910
Large selection of ribbons, trims, and notions
CALICO CORNERS
203 Gale Lane
Kennett Square, PA 19348
800-213-6366
Stores nationwide
A wide selection of designer and home decor fabrics
FRENCH GENERAL
1621 Vista Del Mar
Hollywood, CA 90028
323-462-0818
Fabulous beads, notion kits, and a gorgeous selection of French textiles
GREEN VELVET
130 E. Broadway
Granville, OH 43023
740-587-0515
Great ribbons, trims, new and vintage milliner flora, bead kits, and fabrics
HANCOCK FABRICS
2605A West Main Street
Tupelo, MS 38801
662-844-7368
America’s largest fabric store
HYMAN HENDLER AND SONS
67 West 38th Street
New York, NY 10018
212-840-8393
Basic novelty and vintage trims
ON BOARD FABRICS
Route 27, P.O. Box 14
Edgecomb, ME 04556
207-882-7536
An interesting variety of Balinese cottons, Italian tapestry, and woven plaids
SALSA FABRICS
3100 Holly Avenue
Silver Springs, NV 89429
800-758-3819
Original fabrics in cotton, silk, and wool from Guatemala and Indonesia
TINSEL TRADING COMPANY
47 West 38th Street
New York, NY 10018
212-730-1030
Vintage and contemporary trims
URBAN OUTFITTERS
30 Industrial Park Blvd.
Trenton, SC 29847-2164
800-282-2200
Stores nationwide and mailorder catalog
Great source for urban fashion for you and your home. Fun printed bedspreads and curtains for repurposing.
BEADS BY SANDY
Enormous selection of vintage “dead stock” beads, buttons, and trims
CAROL LANE-SABER DESIGNS
My favorite source for antique Japanese and kimono fabric
DAVA BEAD AND TRADE
www.davabeadandtrade.com
Fantastic resource for beads
EBAY
Internet auctions selling vintage fabrics, trims, beads, and buttons
ONLINE CRAFT STORES
REPRODEPOT FABRICS
The best reproduction fabric source, with a large selection of interesting prints
THE RIBBONERIE INC.
Extensive ribbon collections
THE TIMTEX STORE
800-752-3353
The best online supplier of Timtex interfacing. You can also find Timtex at most larger sewing stores and quilt shops.
More than 40,000 listings of stores selling antiques, including vintage textiles and clothing
Large selection of antiques, collectibles, and textiles
Vintage clothing, accessories, and fabrics
BRIMFIELD ANTIQUE SHOW
A well-known, high-quality outdoor show held in Brimfield, Massachusetts, for about a week each in May, July, and September
INTERNATIONAL QUILT FESTIVAL
Held in Houston, Texas, every October, the Quilt Festival is the largest annual new and vintage quilt and textile show in the world.
ROUND TOP MARBURGER ANTIQUE SHOW
More than 350 dealers from thirty-nine states and Canada selling and trading antiques, collectibles, and textiles