Apple Cookbook (24 page)

3
. Measure the juice into a clean kettle (there should be about 4 cups) and bring to a boil. Add the lemon juice and sugar (¾ cup per cup of juice). Boil for 10 minutes, or until the sugar has dissolved and it registers 220°F on a candy thermometer. The jelly should set when dropped onto a chilled saucer.

4
. When the jelly stage has been reached, skim off the foam. Add a drop of green food coloring, if desired.

5
. Pour immediately into four hot, sterilized pint jars; leave ¼ inch of headroom. Run a rubber spatula around the inside of the jar to release air bubbles. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean cloth. Cap each jar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Process for 5 minutes in a boiling-water bath (page 158). Adjust for altitude if needed.

Yield: Approximately 4 half-pints

My mother used to make this chutney when she still lived at Woodfalls, her family’s farm in Cheshire, England. There was a very large orchard there, and Mother oversaw the making of preserves for home use
.

5 medium apples (Fuji, Granny Smith, Tydeman Red, Wellington)

4 pounds rhubarb, cut into 1-inch pieces

4 medium onions, chopped

1 pound dark raisins

1 pound brown sugar

2½ cups malt vinegar

2 teaspoons curry powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground mace

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1
. Peel, core, and coarsely chop the apples.

2
. Place all ingredients in a large kettle, cover, and bring to a boil.

3
. Remove the cover, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 hours, or until the mixture is thick and tender.

4
. Ladle into 7 or 8 hot, sterilized pint jars; leave ¼ inch of headroom. Run a rubber spatula around the inside of the jar to release air bubbles. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean cloth. Cap each jar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Process for 5 minutes in a boiling-water bath (page 158). Adjust for altitude if needed.

Yield: 7–8 pints

Sweet peaches complement the apples’ tartness in this fragrant, fruity chutney
.

16 medium peaches (about 3 pounds)

8 medium apples (Puritan, Tydeman, Granny Smith)

1 large onion, chopped

1 pound brown sugar

1 pound golden raisins

2 cups cider vinegar

1 tablespoon ground ginger

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cloves

1
. Peel, pit, and dice the peaches.

2
. Peel, core, and dice the apples.

3
. Combine all the ingredients in a large kettle, cover, and bring to a boil.

4
. Remove the cover, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer for approximately 2 hours, until the chutney is thick and tender.

5
. Ladle into 7 or 8 hot, sterilized pint jars; leave ¼ inch of headroom. Run a rubber spatula around the inside of the jar to release air bubbles. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean cloth. Cap each jar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Process for 5 minutes in a boiling-water bath (page 158). Adjust for altitude if needed.

Yield: 7–8 pints

D
ESCRIPTIONS OF THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
of apples should be taken as just that — general. Like that of wines, the quality of apples depends on many factors — latitude, terrain, weather, and the care with which they are grown, among others.

Apples of the same variety vary not only from year to year but from day to day, as they mature. I’ve had apples from the same bag, in fact, that varied widely in appearance and taste. Maybe they were the same shape, but the colors were remarkably different, depending on the degree of ripeness.

The background, or undercast, color of an apple changes from dark green to light green to yellow as it ripens, and the surface turns a bright red or a deeper yellow. In some apples, the surface color completely obscures the background color. Take, for example, one of my favorite apples, the Empire. Sometimes these are all bright red, sometimes bright red on a yellow background. A knockout of juicy spiciness when fully mature, the Empire is flat and uninteresting when eaten before its prime.

Some apples at first look are only a solid green, yellow, or red; but on closer inspection, it can often be seen that they are faintly streaked, marbled, or dotted with a yellow or pink blush. Get to know the apples — from everyday varieties to heirlooms to new hybrids — in the following pages.

The following descriptions cover those apple varieties that are the most popular with the orchardists, are good keepers, and are available for several months in a number of U.S. states and Canadian provinces.

Braeburn
. Discovered as a seedling in New Zealand in 1952, it is believed to be an offspring of the Lady Hamilton. A yellow-skinned apple blushed with red stripes, Braeburn has pale cream flesh that is crisp, juicy, and sweetly tart. A favorite apple for fresh desserts, it is also good for baking and making into a deliciously sweet applesauce.

Cortland
. This apple, a cross between a Ben Davis and a McIntosh, was developed by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York. It entered the commercial market in 1915. Cortlands are grown mainly in the Northeast, the northern Great Lakes states, and eastern Canada. A medium-to-large red-and-green-striped apple, it is crisp, juicy, and sweetly tart. Because its white flesh resists browning, Cortlands are favored for salads and fruit cups. It is also a good all-purpose apple.

Delicious, Golden
. Grown in most regions across the country, Golden Delicious is the second-most grown after Red Delicious, to which it is not at all related. The Golden Delicious (or Yellow Delicious, as it is sometimes called) was discovered in West Virginia in 1914, when it was called Mullin’s Yellow Seedling. The Stark Brothers, owners of a nursery in Louisiana, Missouri, who specialize in acquiring the rights to new apple varieties, later acquired the Golden Delicious. Sometimes, the Starks have found new varieties through fruit competitions they sponsored. This is a medium-to-large pale yellow or yellow-green apple that is mild and sweet. Although it is crisp when harvested in September and October, its pale flesh often becomes dry and soft. Its skin shrivels when not kept under refrigeration. Particularly desirable for snacks, fresh desserts, and salads, the Golden Delicious is a good all-purpose apple.

Delicious, Red
. The Red Delicious is grown throughout the United States and is America’s most popularly grown apple. It was called Hawkeye when it was discovered in 1872 in Peru, Iowa, and was renamed Red
Delicious in 1895 by the Stark Brothers. (George Stark is said to have proclaimed, “It’s delicious,” when he took a bite of Jesse Hiatt’s Hawkeye during the judging of his 1895 fruit competition.) This bright red apple is crisp and juicy when harvested in September and October. Although Red Delicious is considered a good keeper by the industry, its sweet and mild-tasting flesh is all too often a mealy, mushy disappointment. It is best used for snacks, salads, and fruit cups.

Empire
. A cross between Red Delicious and McIntosh, the Empire was introduced into commercial production by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in 1966. Grown mostly in the Northeast and upper mid-western states, this medium, red-on-yellow (sometimes all-red) apple is crisp and juicy. With its sweet and spicy flesh, it is one of the very best for eating out of hand, in salads, and in fruit cups.

Fuji
. This flavorful, aromatic apple is the number-one seller in Japan, where it was developed in 1958 by crossing Ralls-Genet and Red Delicious. A pretty apple with yellowish green skin blushed with orange-red stripes, it has dense, crisp, and sweetly tart light yellow flesh. Fuji retains its flavor even when stored at room temperature and develops a better flavor when held in long-term storage. An excellent apple for eating out of hand, adding to salads, and making into applesauce.

Gala
. Developed in 1934 in New Zealand by J. H. Kidd of Greytown, Wairarapa, Gala (sometimes called Royal Gala) is a cross of Kidd’s Orange Red and Golden Delicious. The thin, red-orange skin — actually red striping over gold — encases aromatic, semisweet, yellowish white flesh. Crisp and juicy, it is a good apple for eating out of hand, using in salads, and pairing with soft, mild cheeses.

Ginger Gold
. Ginger Gold was discovered as a seedling in an orchard in Virginia after Hurricane Camille devastated the area in 1969. It is believed to be the offspring of Albemarle Pippin. It is a large apple with greenish gold skin, which is sometimes tinged with a slight blush when fully mature. The crisp, juicy flesh is pure white and resists turning brown for hours after it has been peeled and cut. This combination makes Ginger Gold a good choice for salads, hors d’oeuvres trays, and garnishes. When the apples are
first picked, their flavor is tart with a sweet aftertaste, but as they mature under refrigeration, their flesh becomes mellow and honey sweet. Ginger Gold is best eaten within two months of harvest.

Granny Smith
. Although one of the most popular varieties sold in the United States, it is imported here year-round from the Southern Hemisphere. Granny Smith originated in Sydney, Australia, about 100 years ago, and is now grown in several states. It is a medium pale green apple that, depending on maturity, is mildly to very tart. It is crisp and firm, and even though it doesn’t have great flavor, its rather hard flesh makes it a good all-purpose apple. The U.S. crop is available October through June.

Ida Red
. This apple was scientifically developed in 1942 at the University of Idaho Agricultural Experiment Station. It is a cross between a Jonathan and a Wagener. Although it is grown in greatest volume in the northeastern and upper midwestern states, its production is increasing by popular demand throughout the country. It is medium to large, bright red, and has creamy white flesh that is very firm, crisp, and juicy. All-purpose apples, the sweetly tart, deliciously spicy Ida Reds are especially good for snacks and desserts, and their firm quality makes them particularly desirable for baking. The flavor improves after several months in controlled-atmosphere storage.

Jerseymac
. A medium-to-large red apple with a green undercast. Its tough skin encases flesh that is tangy, crunchy, and juicy. Although it makes a good all-purpose apple, it does not keep well.

Jonagold
. The Cornell University New York State Agricultural Experiment Station developed the Jonagold by crossing Jonathan and Golden Delicious. It was introduced to American consumers in 1968. A large, slightly elliptical apple with yellow skin blushed with faint orange-red stripes, it has flesh that is supercrisp, juicy, and an even balance of sweet and tart. Jonagold is an excellent all-purpose apple, one of the best for eating out of hand.

Jonamac
. A small-to-medium, red-on-green apple that is firm, mildly tart, and juicy, this can be considered an all-purpose apple. However, it is not a good keeper.

Jonathan
. This was called Rick Apple when it was first introduced in 1826 at Woodstock, New York. Although it is the fifth-largest apple crop in the United States, its production in the North is now limited. It is a medium red apple with an attractive yellow blush. The flesh is firm, crisp, juicy, and sweetly tart, with a spicy aftertaste. A great all-purpose apple that holds its shape well, Jonathan is in demand for baking whole and in pies.

Lodi
. A small to medium light green apple, the Lodi has firm flesh that is mildly tart but rather flavorless. It is fine for cooking purposes, but this late summer apple is not a good keeper.

Macoun
. A cross between a McIntosh and a Jersey Black, this is a medium red apple that sometimes has an unattractive gray bloom. However, its snow-white flesh is supercrisp and juicy, and its honey sweetness makes up for its mild flavor. This is most desirable for eating fresh, for snacks, salads, and fruit cups. It also makes good applesauce. Macoun is a poor keeper — it gets soft and loses flavor in storage — so it is rarely available after November. It is grown mostly in the Northeast, with limited production in the northern Midwest.

McIntosh
. John McIntosh discovered this apple in Ontario, Canada, in 1830. Ranking third in volume in the United States, it is grown throughout the northeastern and upper Great Lakes states, eastern Canada, and British Columbia. It is a medium red-on-green apple, with sweet flesh that is crisp, juicy, and slightly perfumed. Macs are excellent to eat fresh in autumn; later, they are best used for sauce. McIntosh apples collapse when baked whole or in pies.

Melrose
. In 1970, the Ohio State Horticultural Society named Melrose the official state apple. It has a somewhat flat shape, and the skin is a dull red on yellow. However, it makes up for its drab appearance with firm, crisp flesh that is sweet, juicy, and flavorful. Melrose is an excellent all-purpose apple.

Mutsu/Crispin
. This descendant of Golden Delicious was introduced into the United States by the Japanese in 1948. Although grown mostly in the Northeast, Mutsus are gaining wider popularity. The very large yellow-green fruits are not unlike the Golden Delicious; however, the flesh is much
juicier and coarser, and its skin suffers less from storage. It is an excellent all-purpose apple.

Newtown Pippin
. Supposedly discovered in Newtown, New York, on Long Island, in 1758, this is one of the oldest varieties to be found in commercial production. It is now grown in several states and is a great favorite with the processing industry — its firm, crisp, juicy, and sweetly tart flesh makes it ideal for pie fillings and sauce.