Arabian Sands (50 page)

1945–6

The Journey from Salala to Mughshin

The Journey from Salala to the Hadhramaut

1947–8

The Second Crossing of the Empty Quarter

1948–9

The Journey to Liwa

The Journey through Oman

1949–50

The Journey in Oman

Abal,
124
,
130
,
163
,
228
,
230
,
307

Abd al Aziz ibn Saud.
See
ibn Saud, King

Abdullah bin Nura.
See
bin Maiqal

Abdullah, one-eyed, of the Rashid:
206
; anxiety over raiders,
207

Abha,
75
,
245

Abhebad, Lake,
29

Abida, the:
185
,
207
; raiders from,
217
; wounded from,
218
; fight with,
280

Abr, al:
212
; raids around,
216

Abu Bahr, plain of,
232

Abu Dhabi:
142
,
153
,
155
,
156
,
157
,
245
,
246
; weariness on journey to,
259
; arrival at,
262
: stay in,
263
–7; second visit to,
280
–2

Abyssinia: Great Rebellion of 1916 in,
20
; Haile Selassie’s coronation,
21
; exploration in,
21
ff.; campaign in, during World War II,
37
–8

Abyssinians, ancestors of,
109
,
198

Acacia,
87
,
179
,
192
,
274

Ad, lost city of,
236

Adaaimara, the,
25

Adam,
313

Addax,
34

Addis Ababa,
13

Adnan,
96
,
171

Adobada, Lake,
29

Aelius Gallus,
44

Afar, the:
175
,
320
; sick tribesman from,
192
–3; guide from,
302

Aflaj,
309

Africa, central,
109

Ahl al Hadara, the,
47

Ahmad, of the Saar,
204
,
205
,
208

Ahmad, of the Wahiba,
304
,
309
,
310

Ahsaba, Wadi al,
75

Aidam, Wadi,
258

Ailqi,
228

Ain, al, spring,
81
,
184

Ain, al, Wadi:
78
,
172
,
184
,
298
; wrongly marked on map,
196

Aiwat al Saar, the,
206

Aiyun, pool of,
83
,
188
,
190

Ajman, the,
93

Akaki plains,
29

Akhadar, Jabal al:
175
,
182
,
311
,
316
; desire to explore,
319
; turned back from,
324
–5

Akhwan, the,
239
,
249

Al bu Falah, the,
114
,
124
,
153
,
156
,
162
,
267
,
282
,
295

Al bu Shams, the,
295
,
318
,
325

Al bu Said dynasty,
273

Al Hiya, the,
306

Al Kathir, the,
82

Aleppo,
37

Alhambra,
99

Ali, of the Duru,
172
-3,
299

AH, of the Hatim,
216
-18
passim

AH bin Hilal.
See
bin Hilal

AH bin Said.
See
bin Said

AH bin Sulaiman.
See
bin Sulaiman

Amair, of the Rashid:
77
,
103
,
219
; quarrel with bin Mautlauq,
111
–12; joins Umbarak at Tamis well,
212
; presented with rifle before Western Sands crossing,
224
; ruthlessness of,
225
–6; remains at Buraimi,
294

Amairi, al, Wadi,
174
,
175
,
176

Amarjid, the,
198

Amir, of Salaiyil:
238
–9,
245
; of the Wadi,
242
–3

Andam, Wadi,
307
,
310
,
311

Andhur:
179
; ruins at,
191

Arab, al Araba:
91
;
al Mustaraba,
91

Arabia: early civilizations in,
44
; rainfall on south coast,
47
; breaking down of tribal life in,
92
-7; wealth from oil,
95

Arabia Felix,
39
,
44
,
91

Arabic:
47
,
51
–2; as great cultural language,
98
–9.

Arabs: system of government among,
46
–7; treatment of slaves,
77
–8; dress,
80
; attitude to camels,
83
–4
(see also
Camels); feeding habits,
86
,
162
; generosity to guests,
89
,
166
–7; burial sites,
90
–1; number of, in Arabia,
91
; racial divisions of,
91
–2; effect of desert life on,
96
–7; influence on world history,
97
–9; greetings,
101
–2; effect of thirst on,
153
; attitude to women,
194
–5,
270
–1; divorce among,
194
; attitude to bastards,
194
; circumcision among,
78
,
103
–6,
124
,
162
; feuds between tribes,
107
–8; admiration for modern architecture,
209
–10; indifference to pain,
255
; as sailors,
277
–8.
See also
Bedu

Arad,
111
,
301

Aradh escarpment, the,
221
,
232
,
236
,
239
,
242

Arussi Mountains,
23

Ass, wild,
162
,
274

Assaaimara, the,
25

Assal basin, the,
30

Assir, the,
17

Assyria,
92

Aswad, al, Wadi,
175
,
322

Attila,
98

Auf, Muhammad al, of the Rashid: description,
101
,
102
–3; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter,
110
,
114
,
116
,
118
; on the Al bu Falah,
124
; agrees to go on,
132
; offered rifles,
133
; leads way across Empty Quarter,
134
ff.; recites from Koran,
137
; interest in depth of rainfall,
140
; reconnoitres sand-dunes,
144
; as guide over sand-dunes,
14
–6ff.; on thirst,
153
; on difficulties of concealing Umbarak,
156
; and journey to Mukalla,
184
; and preparations against attack, near Fughama,
199
–200

Augustus, Emperor,
44

Aussa,
27
–9

Awamir, the:
67
,
68
,
152
,
156
,
206
,
208
,
209
,
270
; inquisitiveness,
157

Awash, River,
21
,
23

Baboons,
75

Babylonia,
92

Badayat,
35

Badgers, honey,
260

Bagara, the,
31

Baghila,
276

Bahdu,
25
–6

Bahlah,
323

Bahr alSafi, the,
118
,
298

Bahrain, journey to, by dhow,
276
–9

Bai:
114
,
124
,
177
; distance from Mughshin to,
141
–2; reunion at,
178

Baish, Wadi,
75

Bait al Sheikh, the,
190

Bait Imani, the,
68
,
122
,
134
–5

Bait Kathir, the:
47
,
49
–50; attitude to Christians,
50
–3; dialect of,
52
; prayer among,
54
–5; as guides on Salala-Mughshin journey,
77
ff.; as animal owners,
88
; jealousy of the Rashid,
110
,
111
; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter,
116
; love of news,
124
; turn back from Empty Quarter,
133
,
134
; refusal to cross,
178
; avarice of,
205

Bait Khawar, the,
184
,
195
–6

Bait Musan, the,
77
; changing of camels with,
116
,
120
,
122
,
126
,
128
ff.

Bait Qatan,
82

Bait Saad,
82

Bakhit al Dahaimi.
See
Dahaimi, al

Balagh well,
157
,
164
,
261

Baluchi, encampment of,
311
–12

Bani Ad, the,
236

Bani Hilal, the,
75
,
93

Bani Kitab, the,
268
,
274
,
318

Bani Maradh, the,
233
–4

Bani Ramh, sands of,
237

Bani Yas, the:
156
,
161
,
261
,
262
,
270
,
271
–2; uncouthness and selfishness of,
288

Barbary sheep.
See
Sheep

Bardai,
36

Barida well,
312

Barton, Sir Sydney,
21
–2

Batha Bidiya, the,
309

Batha, Wadi,
306
,
308
–9

Batin, the,
157

Bedu, the: nature of,
50
–1,
62
–3,
64
; daily life among,
54
ff.; attitude to their camels,
56
–9,
83
–4; love of conversation and news,
61
–2,
86
,
136
,
170
,
178
; coffee-drinking,
60
; smoking,
60
; camping habits,
60
–2; breadmaking,
61
; skill at reading camel tracks,
65
–6,
208
; generosity of,
64
,
71
,
79
; Southern Bedu contrasted with Northern Bedu,
68
; love of poetry,
87
; numbers of, in Arabia,
91
; moral and physical ascendancy of,
93
; tribal society,
94
–5; attitude to money,
95
,
96
,
167
; effect of oil discovery on,
95
–6; refusal to eat hare,
111
; enjoyment of arguments and disputes,
112
,
252
; cauterizing as remedy for ailments,
112
–13;
hamrar
remedy,
113
; attitude to food,
113
,
176
; gregariousness of,
120
–1; vigour of,
124
–5; swearing by,
124
–6; reality of God to,
142
; regard for human dignity,
168
; ease with which offended,
163
; indifference to human life,
193
,
225
–6; keen observation of,
233
,
308
; refusal to express opinion on weather,
246
; strong position of outlaws among warring sheikhs,
281
–2; division of spoil after raids,
288
; preference for hard nomadic life,
327
–8; their way of life doomed,
329
–30