Around My French Table (35 page)

STORING
You can make the pastry circles up to 8 hours ahead (keep them at room temperature) and you can cook the onions a few hours ahead. It's the scallops that mustn't wait. Although you could cut them a few hours ahead and keep them between sheets of plastic wrap in the fridge, once you put them on the onions, you need to bake the tarts ASAP; and once you've baked them, you need to serve them right away.

W
AFFLES ARE A SPECIALTY
of the north of France, the area that borders Belgium, beloved throughout the country, and, odd as it seems to us, almost never served in the morning. For the French, waffles are often a snack—you can buy them on the street from the same vendors who make crepes—most often a dessert (like Waffles and Cream,
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), and sometimes a savory starter or nibble, which is the perfect role for these chic waffles studded with smoked salmon.

The batter is flavored with chives and scallions, along with the salmon. I use a standard waffle iron, but in Paris restaurants, waffles are often served as mini versions made by pouring small polka dots of batter onto the iron. Whether you make the waffles small or large (then cut them into smaller wedges), they're lovely topped with a dollop of crème fraîche or sour cream and lovelier still when finished with a few beads of salmon roe.

Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper together in a medium bowl. In another bowl or a large measuring cup with a spout, whisk together the milk, eggs, and melted butter. Pour the liquid ingredients over the dry and stir everything together gently—it's better to have a few lumps than it is to beat the batter. Stir in the smoked salmon, scallions, and chives.
(You can cover the batter and leave it at room temperature for up to 1 hour before waffling; stir well before using.)

When you're ready to make the waffles, preheat a waffle iron according to the manufacturer's directions. If your iron is not nonstick, brush it lightly with oil or spritz it with vegetable cooking spray. If you'd like to keep the waffles warm while you're making the full batch, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 200 degrees F; line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

When the iron is hot, pour about ½ cup batter over the grids, using a spatula to spread it evenly across the surface—you want a thin layer. (Precisely how much batter you need will depend on the size of your iron.) Let the batter bake for about 30 seconds before closing the lid and baking the waffle until it is well browned on the underside—that's the side that will always be brownest and most beautiful, no matter what you do. To keep the waffles warm if you're not serving as you go, place them on the baking sheet and slide them into the oven. Continue until you've cooked all the batter.

Cut the waffles into quarters and arrange the quarters on plates. Top each one with crème fraîche or sour cream, salmon roe, if you're using it, and a sprinkling of chives. Or, if you've made mini waffles, you can create millefeuilles with them, sandwiching the waffles with cream. Count on 3 little waffle stacks per serving.

MAKES 8 WAFFLES (ABOUT 7 INCHES IN DIAMETER)

SERVING
You can arrange the waffles in the kitchen, topping them with crème fraîche or sour cream and the salmon roe, if you're using it; you can just put out the waffles and fixings and let your guests make their own; or you can go fancy and make mini waffles that can be stacked. They'll be delicious no matter how you serve them.

STORING
Waffles are best eaten hot off the iron, although they can be kept for about 20 minutes in a 200-degree-F oven. You can freeze freshly made or leftover waffles. Layer them between sheets of wax paper and wrap them airtight. To revive them, thaw, then reheat and recrisp them in a toaster or toaster oven.

W
HILE BLINI MAY CONJURE UP THOUGHTS
of Russia and a picture of tins piled high with caviar and ice buckets packed with vodka, the word is as much a part of the cocktail vocabulary in France as it is in Russia, or in the United States, for that matter. And the buckwheat that's used to give the blini a lovely brown color and a deep nutty flavor is also very French—it's the flour of choice for Brittany's savory crepes. In fact, blini are so popular in France that even small convenience stores stock them in their refrigerator cases, and while they don't usually sell caviar, they often have other things, like taramasalata (carp roe), lumpfish roe, and smoked salmon, that make excellent toppers.

Making your own blini at home is both fun and easy, if not as spur-of-the-moment as getting them from the nearby 7-Eleven (or 8 à Huit, the French equivalent), since these are yeast-raised pancakes and you've got to give the leavening a little time to build up its puff power. But the time is short—let the batter rest for an hour and a half, and you're good to go; let it rest overnight, and the blini will have even more flavor.

I usually serve the blini topped with smoked salmon, the smallest dab of crème fraîche, some salmon roe, and feathery dill, but the possibilities are wide and the choice all yours.

BE PREPARED:
The batter needs to rise for 60 to 90 minutes.

Warm the milk and butter in a saucepan over low heat (or in a microwave oven) until the butter is melted and the milk feels warm to the touch—you're aiming for 110 degrees F. (If you overshoot the temperature, just let the mixture cool down.)

Whisk together the all-purpose flour, buckwheat flour, sugar, yeast, and salt in a medium bowl. Pour the warm milk and butter over the dry ingredients and whisk gently only until you have a smooth batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, put it in a warm, draft-free place, and let rise for 60 to 90 minutes, or until it is bubbly and doubled in volume.
(The batter can be kept, covered, in the refrigerator overnight, if you chill the batter, let it stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes before proceeding.)

Whisk the batter and stir in the beaten eggs.

Lightly butter, oil, or spray a blini pan, griddle, or skillet and place it over medium heat. (Electric griddles should be preheated to 350 degrees F.) If you're not going to serve each batch as it is cooked, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 200 degrees F; line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

Drop 2 tablespoons of the batter into the pan for each blini, leaving room between the dollops of batter for spreading. When the undersides of the blini are golden and the tops are dotted with bubbles that pop, flip over the blini and bake until the other side is light brown. (The second side always cooks faster than the first side and it's never as pretty—it's just a fact of pancaking.) You can dress the blini now, hot off the griddle, or put them on the baking sheet, cover lightly, and keep them in the preheated oven while you make the rest of the batch.

To serve, top the blini with smoked salmon, crème fraîche, salmon roe (if using), and dill.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

SERVING
I like to top the warm blini with the works: a thin slice of smoked salmon, a spoonful of crème fraîche, a little salmon roe, and a small feather of fresh dill.

STORING
You can make the batter a day ahead, and you can also make the blini a day in advance. To reheat them, arrange them on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper, brush them lightly with melted butter, and warm them in a 350-degree-F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

W
ITH THEIR BELLIES FULL OF SAVORY
tuna speckled with capers, olives, and mint, these bright red piquillo peppers have the look of a surprise package. On its own, the tuna mix is a good spread for thin slices of toasted baguettes or crackers, but paired with the sweet, smoky peppers and warmed ever so slightly just before serving, the blend seems almost exotic. It's the peppers that do that—they can make just about anything special.

If you were in Spain, where piquillo peppers grow, or in France's Pays Basque, where they're a staple, stuffed peppers like these would be considered tapas, tasty little somethings to have with drinks, and there's no reason not to consider them as such no matter where you live. But because they are knife-and-fork morsels, I like to serve them when my guests are at the table and can maneuver their silverware and enjoy their wine without juggling either.

Depending on how and when you're serving these, you may want to double this recipe.

Put the tuna in a bowl and toss it lightly with a fork to break it up. While you can mash it, I think it's nice when it's still a little flaky. Stir in the lemon zest, capers, shallot, olives, and mint or parsley. Add 2 teaspoons of the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, as well as some pepper, and taste. You'll probably want another teaspoon of lemon juice and you might want another teaspoon of oil—it will depend on the tuna and your taste. If you think the mix needs salt, add it now.

With your fingers, gently open the peppers, and fill each with a tablespoon or so of the filling. The peppers should be plump but not packed to the brim. Put them in a lightly oiled small baking pan (it's okay if they're touching one another) or lay them on a lightly oiled foil-lined baking sheet. Save any leftover filling to use as a spread.
(You can cover the peppers and keep them at room temperature for a couple of hours, or refrigerate them for up to 6 hours, if possible, bring the peppers to room temperature before heating them.)

Just before you're ready to serve, position a rack 4 inches from the broiler and turn on the broiler. (You can skip the broiling and serve the peppers at room temperature, if you like, but a little bit of heat really brings the flavors together.) Drizzle a few teaspoons of olive oil over the peppers and place them under the broiler. Broil for 5 to 10 minutes, just until they're warmed through. Serve immediately.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

SERVING
These need nothing more than a glass of wine and maybe a bit of bread to wipe the plate.

STORING
You can stuff the peppers ahead of time and keep them covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours.