Bon Appetit Desserts (10 page)

1. Always chop chocolate to ensure even melting: Score lines in the chocolate with a large sharp knife; the pieces should be no larger than a half inch. Press a knife firmly with the heel of your hand along the score lines to chop.
   

2. Place the chopped chocolate in a metal bowl set over barely simmering water.
   

3. Stir the chocolate constantly; it can burn easily. A silicone spatula works well because the silicone will not impart any off flavors to the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is smooth.
   

4. When melting chocolate with other ingredients, such as butter or cream, use a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir the mixture constantly.
   

Chocolate curls lend a festive finish to all kinds of desserts, from simple cupcakes to sophisticated mousses. And they are incredibly easy to make.

1. Set a large chunk or bar of chocolate in a warm place to soften slightly (but not melt). Or gently warm chocolate in a microwave oven: Place the chocolate on a paper towel and heat it on the lowest setting at 5-second intervals until just warm.
   

2. Working over a sheet of waxed paper, firmly grasp the chocolate in one hand and, using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave curls from the chocolate onto the waxed paper. (If the chocolate breaks into small pieces, it is probably too cold.)
   

3. Use the waxed paper to transfer the chocolate curls: Lift the edges of the paper and carefully slide the chocolate curls and shavings onto the dessert or into an airtight plastic container. Store chocolate curls in a cool, dry place for up to a week.
   

Chocolate leaves are an elegant way to decorate cakes, mousses, and cheesecakes.

1. Select semirigid, waxy, nontoxic leaves. Camellia or citrus leaves, particularly lemon leaves, work well.
   

2. Line a large baking sheet with foil or waxed paper.
   

3. Using a small offset spatula or small brush, coat the back of a leaf with a thin, even layer of melted chocolate, about
   inch thick, being careful not to let the chocolate drip over the edge of the leaf [1]. Transfer the leaf to the baking sheet.
   

   

4. Repeat the process, making as many leaves as desired.
   

5. Refrigerate or freeze the leaves until firm.
   

6. Grasp the stem end of the leaf with your fingertips or tweezers and carefully peel it away from the chocolate [2]. Store the leaves in the refrigerator in a single layer in a waxed paper-lined sealable plastic container. Handle the leaves as little as possible; the heat from your fingers will melt and mar the delicate chocolate.
   

   

Beat chilled whipping cream (taken directly from the refrigerator) in a large bowl. To get the best texture and volume from whipped cream, be sure that the bowl and beaters are chilled as well.

If whipping by hand, use a large balloon whisk and whisk the cream until desired peaks form.

If using an electric mixer:

1. Begin whipping the cream at medium-high speed, then reduce the speed to low as soon as the cream begins to thicken.
   

2. Continue to whip the cream until desired peaks form.
   

3. Do not overbeat the cream; overwhipped cream will break and curdle—meaning that the dairy fat will separate from the liquid, forming small clumps of butter.
   

4. Sweeten and flavor whipped cream to your taste: Use honey, maple syrup, agave nectar, powdered sugar, or brown sugar in place of granulated sugar, if you like, and flavor with citrus zests, spices, liqueurs, and extracts.
   

5. When is cream whipped enough?
   

   • When serving whipped cream as a garnish, whip it just until it thickens and forms loose peaks when the beaters are lifted.
   

   • When using it as a frosting or in a mousse, whip the cream to medium peaks. (It will continue to thicken as it’s used.)
   

   • For piping, whip the cream until firmer peaks form.
   

Here’s how to make crème anglaise or a stirred custard for ice cream without curdling the eggs.

1. Bring the cream or milk mixture to a simmer in a heavy saucepan.
   

2. Whisk the egg yolk and sugar mixture in a large bowl until very well blended.
   

3. Gradually beat the hot milk or cream mixture into the egg-yolk mixture.
   

4. Return the custard mixture to the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon or a silicone spatula over the heat level indicated in the recipe, just until thickened. Be very careful not to allow the custard to boil, as boiling will cause the eggs to curdle (which is basically scrambling).
   

5. It is fairly easy to judge with your eye whether the custard is properly cooked—it will thicken slightly and your finger will leave a path on the back of a spoon when drawn across it [1]—but it is safest to use an instant-read thermometer. Cook the custard to 170°F to ensure proper thickening and to avoid curdling.
   

   

6. Once the custard reaches the proper temperature, immediately remove it from the heat and transfer to a large bowl.
   

Zabaglione
(in Italian) or
sabayon
(in French) is a traditional custard preparation made by whisking egg yolks with sugar and liquid (usually wine) over a double boiler until light and fluffy. The beating is done over simmering water so that the egg yolks cook as they thicken into a light, foamy custard.

1. Select a metal bowl that fits above a medium-size saucepan so that the bulk of the bowl sits over the water (but does not touch the water) and does not come into direct contact with the heat from the sides of the saucepan.
   

2. Using a large wire whisk, beat vigorously and continuously until an instant-read thermometer reads 160°F
   

3. Remove the bowl from over the water as soon as the zabaglione is cooked.
   

1. Break the egg open by striking it against the edge of a bowl.
   

2. Carefully open the egg by pulling the top half of the shell from the bottom, making sure that the bottom half forms a cup that holds the egg yolk.
   

3. Let the egg white drain from the eggshell into the bowl. If necessary, pass the egg yolk carefully from one half of the eggshell to the other to remove all of the egg white.
   

Egg whites will increase eight times in volume as you beat them. To ensure that they don’t lose volume, only beat the egg whites once all of your other ingredients are ready, your pan is prepared, and your oven is preheated.

1. Choose a large deep stainless steel, copper, or glass bowl. Do not use aluminum, as it will turn egg whites gray. Make sure the bowl is clean and dry.
   

2. Using the wire whip attachment of an electric mixer or a large balloon whisk, beat the egg whites without stopping until they form soft peaks [1] or firm peaks [2], according to the recipe instructions. Make sure not to overbeat them (egg whites can become dry and grainy).
   

   

   

Folding refers to the blending of two ingredients (usually including whipped cream or whipped egg whites) without stirring, so as not to deflate, or remove air from, the mixture.

1. Carefully draw a rubber spatula down [1] and across the ingredients in a large bowl toward the edge of the bowl, pulling the ingredients from the bottom and folding them over the top of the mixture [2].
   

   

   

2. Repeat the process just until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, being careful to work quickly but gently.