Bon Appetit Desserts (9 page)

An
electric spice grinder
makes quick work of pulverizing seeds and whole spices. A
coffee grinder
works, too, but get a separate one for spices so that the flavor of your morning brew isn’t affected. Using a
mortar and pestle
to grind spices has rustic appeal, though more time and muscle are required. Usually made of ceramic or marble, this time-honored two-piece grinder features a bowl-like mortar and a baton-like pestle.

Springform pans have removable sides that seal shut with a spring-loaded latch. Making a cheesecake, mousse cake, or frozen dessert in a springform pan allows for especially easy removal of the pan sides at serving time. Springform pans come in several different sizes, but
Bon Appétit
recipes usually call for 9- or 10-inch-diameter pans.

Buy fine- and coarse-mesh strainers in a few different sizes. They’re indispensable for straining fruit purees, custard sauces, and freshly squeezed citrus juice. A
coarse strainer
does double duty as a sifter for sifting dry ingredients together, as well as for removing lumps from sugar and cocoa. Use a
small strainer
to dust cookies and cakes with powdered sugar.

Tart pans range in size from just a few inches across (for tartlets) to 11 inches wide. They can be round, rectangular, or square. The pan’s shallow depth and fluted edges give a professional pastry-shop look, and the removable bottom makes it easy to remove the tart from the pan.

For testing the doneness of cakes, brownies, and scones, a thin bamboo skewer works well, as does a toothpick. You can also buy a cake tester, a thin steel skewer with a handle at one end.

To check the doneness of caramels, syrups, candy mixtures, jams, and jellies, it’s critical to use a
candy thermometer
, also called a
deep-fry thermometer.
Get one that clips onto the side of the pan so that your hands are free for cooking. A candy thermometer is different from an
instant-read thermometer
, which is used to read the temperature of custards and butter. Many instant-read thermometers aren’t designed to withstand the high temperatures required for readings on sugar mixtures like dark caramel, which can get as hot as 380°F.

Choose a swivel-bladed peeler with a comfortable grip, which will offer the easiest maneuverability for removing the peel from fruits and for making chocolate curls.

A whisk’s sturdy wires help blend ingredients and also beat air into whatever you’re mixing. For combining dry ingredients and stirring sauces until smooth, use a
standard whisk
, which has a gently tapered profile. A
balloon whisk
, which is wider at the bottom than the top, is good for tasks that require aerating, such as whipping small amounts of cream by hand.

Simple, heat resistant, and versatile, wooden spoons have countless uses. The spoons come with flat edges, angled edges, and, of course, curved bowls. They’re sturdy enough for softening butter and stirring thick doughs, batters, compotes, and sauces. The simple, dowel-like handle is easy to hold. And the wooden surface is less slick than a metal spoon’s, which makes it the tool of choice for stirring and softening thick ingredients, like buttery cookie doughs. Wooden spoons are inexpensive, so keep an assortment of sizes on hand.

whether whipping cream to soft peaks or creating the perfect custard. Some techniques may require a little more practice than others, but all are well within the reach of every home cook. Here we offer step-by-step guidance to the most widely used dessert techniques—those that you’ll use frequently throughout this book. In addition, you’ll find more specific instructions (how to frost cakes, for example, or how to prepare perfect pie crusts) within each chapter.

1. Read through the entire recipe before measuring or preparing a single ingredient. This may sound obvious, but many cooks dive right in, only to discover that they are missing ingredients, have not allowed enough time for preparation or chilling, or don’t have the proper equipment on hand.
   

2. Pay special attention to the recipe headnote, which highlights useful information about the ingredients and techniques used in the recipe.
   

3. Ingredients are listed in the order that they are used in the recipe.
   

4. The French term
   mise en place
   means “setting in place”; in cooking, it refers to having all the ingredients prepped and ready to go—chocolate chopped, flour measured, strawberries hulled and sliced, etc. But, once again, read the recipe first before preparing the
   mise en place.
   You wouldn’t want to peel and slice peaches for a cheesecake topping, for example, only to find that they are added to the recipe
   after
   the cake has chilled overnight.
   

5. Cooking times will vary depending on individual ovens, pan variations, and other elements. Always set the timer for a few minutes less than the recipe calls for, just to be on the safe side. Once you find that your baking times are in sync with the times stated in the recipes, or that they routinely run a minute or two slower or faster, set your timer accordingly.
   

NOTE
: Baking is the most exacting form of cooking; even minor changes to a recipe can make a dramatic difference in the results. Therefore, we suggest that you
do not make substitutions
beyond what may be recommended in the recipe or headnote. Or, prepare the recipe at least once as written, then experiment with your own variations.

Brown butter, or
beurre noisette
, refers to butter that has been melted and cooked until golden brown. Browning—not burning—the butter over medium-low heat cooks the milk solids in the butter, thus intensifying the butter flavor. This is a classic French technique that adds a full, nutty, buttery flavor to foods. Here’s how to do it.

1. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat.
   

2. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is browned to the desired color indicated in the recipe. The length of time will vary depending on the amount of butter. Remove from heat.
   

Thoroughly buttering a baking pan and then coating it with a light layer of flour is the best way to ensure that your finished dessert releases from the pan completely.

1. Using a pastry brush or clean fingers, coat the inside surface of the baking pan thoroughly with softened butter, making sure to cover all surfaces and reaching into corners and grooves.
   

2. Sprinkle the pan with about 2 tablespoons of flour [1].
   

   

3. Tilt and tap the pan gently to coat all surfaces with flour [2].
   

   

4. Invert the pan and tap out any excess flour.
   

Beating sugar and butter until fluffy is called “creaming.” This step is important, as it incorporates air into the final product.

1. Make sure the butter is at room temperature and soft so that it creams properly with the sugar. If your butter is cold and firm, you can cut it into slices and microwave it on low for a few seconds (be sure not to melt the butter). The butter should be soft enough that you can easily press your finger into it and leave a distinct mark.
   

2. Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. This is easiest with an electric mixer, but can be done by hand with a wooden spoon.
   

3. The butter and sugar mixture should have the consistency of fluffy frosting and should be very pale in color.
   

Making caramel takes some practice. First make sure you have the right equipment, then follow the recipe directions precisely—and be very careful when working with hot caramel. If you’re new to making caramel, keep in mind these tips:

1. Use a heavy-duty nonreactive pan with a secure handle and a shiny or light-colored interior. Heavy-duty pans ensure even heat. A secure grip helps keep the pan under control (getting burned by hot sugar is no fun). And a pan with a reflective (not dark) interior makes color changes easy to see.
   

2. Dissolve the sugar in the liquid according to the recipe directions. To make sure the sugar is totally dissolved, dip a spoon in, then rub a drop of the syrup between your thumb and finger (the syrup will still be cool enough to touch at this point). If you feel grainy bits, keep stirring over low heat. If not, continue with the recipe.
   

3. Brush down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to dissolve any sugar crystals. Otherwise, the finished caramel may have a grainy texture.
   

4. As soon as the syrup in the pan turns golden, the difference between light, medium, and dark caramel occurs in a matter of seconds. What’s in the pan is much too hot to taste safely and could burn you badly. Instead, rely on visual cues or a candy thermometer:
   

   Color: Light amber
   

   Temperature: 330°F to 340°F
   

   Flavor: Mild
   

   Color: Medium amber
   

   Temperature: 355°F to 360°F
   

   Flavor: Distinctively roasty
   

   Color: Dark amber
   

   Temperature: 375°F to 380°F
   

   Flavor: Intense, with an almost bitter edge
   

5. If you’re adding cream (or other ingredients), stand back—the hot caramel syrup will bubble vigorously and could burn you.