Bread Machine (114 page)
Bread Machine Baker’s Hint: Preserving Fresh Herbs
Culinary herbs are defined as “the fragrant leaves of soft-stemmed plants.” Growing your own means having fresh herbs available at all times, although hothouse varieties are now available year-round in the supermarket. Whether you buy bunches of herbs at the produce section or grow your own, it is common that a bunch of herbs is just too much to use at one time. Rather than letting the herbs die, it is easy to preserve the surplus by drying or freezing. My mom always has a few batches of basil in the freezer. She chops and portions the extra as soon as she gets home from the supermarket so that the herbs are as fresh as possible at the time of freezing. My friend Mary Cantori has a huge herb garden and regularly dries herbs. By continually harvesting from the plants, she also keeps plots pruned. I am the lucky recipient of a few baggies full of marjoram, summer savory, and basil—my favorites—from her every Christmas. Growing your own herbs is also the way to enjoy varieties of herbs you never see sold commercially. My friend, food writer and expert on California rancho cooking Jacquie Higuera McMahan, has a large clump of Spanish oregano that she cultivates, which was transplanted from her family’s California rancho decades ago. It is a more subtle and sweet aromatic than the Greek variety we commonly see here.
How to Dry Fresh Herbs
Fresh herbs are more potent and aromatic than dried, but the mild, distinct flavors of dried herbs are favorites, too. This method of preserving is especially good for bay, oregano, summer savory, marjoram, tarragon, thyme, safflower pistils, and rosemary. Take heed of the quality of the herbs you dry; herbs from healthy plants will give the best results. Be sure that no pesticides or sprays have been used on the herbs. Gently wash the leaves with cool to tepid water, as hot water can dissolve precious aromatic oils. Remove the leaves from the stem, unless the herbs will be hung to dry or used as a
bouquet garni
. Spread the leaves on a double layer of paper towels placed on a plate or flat basket. Let them air dry at room temperature for 3 days to one week in a clean area away from direct sunlight. If you harvest your own herbs and have enough for a bunch, tie a string around the stems and hang the bunch in a dry, warm, dark area, such as in the garage or in a closet. Strip off the whole leaves when the plants have dried enough to become brittle. Home-dried herb leaves are coarser and larger than commercial dried herbs, which is preferable, since the smaller pieces lose their precious fragrance faster. Store the whole dried leaves—in paper bags or airtight containers in a dark place to prevent discoloration—no longer than 6 months. About 1 teaspoon of dried herbs is equal to 1 tablespoon of fresh.
How to Freeze Fresh Herbs
My mother buys her fresh herbs at the farmer’s market, then chops and divides them into small packets for easy additions to breads and sauces later on. This method of preserving is especially good for mint, cilantro, basil, sage, marjoram, epazote, and chives.
For a flavor close to fresh, wash the leaves and strip them from the stem as for drying. Chop the leaves or leave them whole, as desired. Place herbs in small plastic freezer bags and freeze. Break off portions of the frozen herbs to use as needed. The herbs can be used frozen or defrosted, but should be used as soon as possible after they are taken from the freezer. Do not refreeze. Use them as you would fresh herbs in recipes.
T
his recipe is adapted from one by food writer and former chef of Greens Restaurant Deborah Madison. Although Deborah always professes that bread is not her forte, she is an avid bread lover and does make great bread. This one is wonderful for the spring and is nice, as my friend Lynn Alley likes it, dressed up with an icing-like lemon glaze and sprinkled with rosemary flowers.
1
1
/
2
-POUND LOAF
For the dough:
2 cups water
3 tablespoons baking soda
1
/
2
cup (2 ounces) whole hazelnuts
⅔ cup milk
1 large egg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3 tablespoons honey
2
3
/
4
cups bread flour
1
1
/
2
teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
Grated zest of 1 large lemon
1 tablespoon gluten
1
3
/
4
teaspoon salt
1
3
/
4
teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2
1
/
4
teaspoons bread machine yeast
3
/
4
cup golden raisins
For the lemon icing
:
3
/
4
cup sifted confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons warm fresh lemon juice
2-POUND LOAF
For the dough:
2 cups water
3 tablespoons baking soda
3
/
4
cup (3 ounces) whole hazelnuts
1 cup milk
1 large egg plus 1 egg yolk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1
/
4
cup honey
3
3
/
4
cups bread flour
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
Grated zest of 1 large lemon
1 tablespoon plus
1 teaspoon gluten
1
3
/
4
teaspoons salt
2
1
/
4
teaspoons SAF yeast or 2
3
/
4
teaspoons bread machine yeast
1 cup golden raisins
For the lemon icing
:
3
/
4
cup sifted confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons warm fresh lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
To skin the nuts, bring the 2 cups water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the baking soda and the nuts. Boil for 3 to 5 minutes; the water will turn black. Drain the nuts in a colander and run them under a stream of cold water. Using your fingers, slip off each skin, and place on a clean dish towel. Pat dry and place on a clean baking sheet. Toast the nuts in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring twice. Cool on the baking sheet. Chop the nuts and set aside.
To make the dough, place the dough ingredients, except the hazelnuts and raisins, in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer’s instructions. Set crust on medium and program for the Basic or Fruit and Nut cycle; press Start. (This recipe is not suitable for use with the Delay Timer.) When the machine beeps, or between Knead 1 and Knead 2, add the raisins and hazelnuts. Add an extra table spoon or two of water if the dough ball seems dry.
When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing, or drizzle with the lemon icing.