Bread Machine (212 page)

My homemade jams are less sweet than commercial jams, as you may notice. I tend to cut back from the traditional one-to-one sugar-to-fruit proportions that leave the fruit swimming in a clear jelly. These recipes make softer jams. I think they are much more exciting in flavor and color this way, with a balance of fruit flavor and sweetness. As you add the sugar, always do so to your taste, so you can achieve the proper sweetness for your own palate. Taste the fruit before placing it in the pan to get an idea of how sweet it is to begin with. Or, hold back some of the sugar and taste the sugar-fruit mixture after the sugar has dissolved, before you start the machine.

Some sweetening is vital to the process of making jam since sugar attracts the water from the fruit and binds it to the fruit pulp, thereby acting as a preservative. It also helps the thickening process. Pectin, a starch found at least in small amounts in all fruit, forms an “affectionate” network, trapping the sugar and fruit pulp. A bit of acid, usually in the form of lemon juice, encourages the pectin, and the pulp ends up a spreadable paste. The long, chainlike molecules of pectin, naturally occurring in the the cell walls of plants, are especially important for thickening these closed-oven jams, as they cannot be helped along by liquid evaporating during cooking. The lack of evaporation with the bread machine method also results in a greater yield per batch than on the stovetop. Remember that the more sugar you add, the thicker your jam will be, and jams do continue to thicken upon cooling and refrigerating. Never use sugar substitutes, which will not be effective thickeners. The exception to this rule is powdered fructose. Please note, too, that these recipes may yield a different amount of jam each time you make them, depending on the juiciness and seasonal variations of the fruit. For sophisticated palates, add a light splash of good-quality cognac, Scotch, amaretto, cassis, port, or orange liqueur as the jam finishes cooking.

Pectin comes in 1.75- and 2-ounce packages, depending on the brand. The tiny difference in the quantities is not significant; use half, three-fourths, or whatever portion the recipe calls for when using either size package.

Do not be tempted to double any of the recipes in this chapter. The bread pan has a limited capacity, and can only make small amounts of preserves at one time—the paddle must be able to stir all the jam efficiently. The volume of the ingredients should never exceed 3
¹
/
₂
cups total of fruit and sugar, but please check your manufacturer’s manual, as the maximum amount varies from model to model. The ingredients will cook down in different degrees depending on the denseness of the fruit used. If you need more jam, make a new batch.

Store your jam in a covered container in the refrigerator up to 2 months. I keep a collection of pretty storage jars such as French
confiture
jars or the tulip-shaped German Weck jars, quilted jelly jars, or glass-topped jars with wire closures (spring-top jars); they look nice set out on the table. Even though sterilizing the jars is not necessary for short-term storage like this, I run them through the dishwasher or wash them well in hot sudsy water and dry them completely before filling them. These preserves can also be frozen in plastic containers or small freezer bags for up to three months.

Bread Machine Baker’s Hint: Jams and Preserves Made Easy

Paying attention to the following guidelines will help you get the best results when making jam in the bread machine. Please note that the recipes in this chapter should only be made in machines that have a Jam cycle.

• Prepare the fruit by stemming, peeling (if necessary), seeding, or pitting it. Most of my recipes instruct how to cut the fruit for the jam, and most require that you mash the fruit or crush it into coarse pieces. Soft, small berries can go in whole; the bread machine blade does a lot of mashing. Do not puree the fruit before adding it; you want to recognize bits of the whole fruit when the jam is done.
  
• Measure fruit
  after
  crushing, not before. The total volume of crushed fruit with sugar should not exceed 3
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups, to avoid spillovers onto the electrical element and for efficient and constant mixing by the blade. Check your manufacturer’s booklet for your machine’s maximum capacity, as some models have a smaller maximum when making jam.
  
• Make sure the kneading blade is in place before adding the fruit mixture. It must be in place during the Jam cycle, and it is difficult to attach after the bottom of the pan is filled with crushed fruit. The paddle is necessary for stirring, which is crucial to the success of the mixture. You will hear the slow rhythm of the blade stirring through almost the entire cycle.
  
• Half of a 1
  ³
  /
  ₄
  - or 2-ounce package of powdered pectin is about 2
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tablespoons. Three-fourths of a package is about 3
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tablespoons. The measurement of the pectin in these recipes does not have to be exact.
  
• Most of my recipes ask you to add the sugar to taste. Taste the fruit before you add the ingredients to the bread pan, to find out how sweet the fruit is to begin with. To avoid adding too much sugar, hold back some of the sugar called for. Taste the fruit and sugar mixture after it has been sitting in the pan for a few minutes before you start the machine, and adjust the sugar accordingly.
  
• The jam cycle has a 10-minute preheat, a 60-minute cook cycle, and sometimes a 10-minute cool-down. Make sure the appliance is a few inches away from the wall and any cabinets all the way around its circumference. During the Jam cycle, plenty of heat and steam are released out of the vents in a short period of time. The machine will beep at the end of the full Jam cycle. A jelly or candy thermometer should register about 220°F when inserted into the hot mixture. I remove the pan immediately, and unless I am using heat-resistant jars, such as canning jars, I let it stand for 15 minutes, and then pour the preserves into storage jars.
  
• I test each batch for doneness as I take it out of the machine by using the cold-saucer test. Spoon a small amount of cooked jam onto a cold plate, or spoon the jam onto a plate at room temperature and then freeze it for 1 minute. Then touch the jam with a spoon or with your finger to see how much it has jelled; if it has the right jam consistency, it is done. Don’t forget to taste it, too!· For the easiest cleanup after pouring the jam out, immediately fill the bread machine pan with warm water and dish soap to soak.
  

FRESH STRAWBERRY JAM       
Makes about 2
¹
/
₂
cups jam

U
se a combination of overripe and unripe berries. If you have the strawberries on hand, but aren’t going to make the jam right away, store the berries, unwashed, wrapped in two layers of paper toweling, in a closed plastic bag in the refrigerator. Because strawberries absorb water quickly, never float berries in water while cleaning them. Just rinse under running water right before using. This is how my mom likes her jam (she makes a few small batches every spring)—not too sweet, kind of runny, with a few whole berries and lots of intense flavor. A basket of strawberries is usually one pint.

1
¹
/
₂
- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES

2 pints (about 1 pound) fresh strawberries, rinsed, drained, and hulled

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Three-fourths of a 1.75- or 2-ounce box powdered fruit pectin

1 cup sugar, or to taste

Coarsely crush the berries with a potato masher, or put them in a food processor and pulse a few times, leaving a few whole berries or chunks. You will have about 2
¹
/
₂
cups. Place the fruit in the bread pan. Add the lemon juice and sprinkle with the pectin. Let stand for 10 minutes. Add the sugar.

Program the machine for the Jam cycle and press Start. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, carefully remove the pan with heavy oven mitts. You can scrape the jam into heat-resistant jars right away, using a rubber spatula. For other jars, let the jam sit in the pan for 15 minutes before transferring. Let stand until cool. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months, or spoon into small freezer bags and freeze.

BLUEBERRY JAM        
Makes about 2 cups jam

B
lueberry jam has a loyal following in the jam-lover’s community. It is a starling midnight-blue color, and some of the berries remain intact when the jam is done, still evident in every spreading.
Crème de cassis
is a tasty fruit liqueur made from black currants, a fruit that contains one of the highest concentrations of vitamin C. It is extremely low proof and very sweet, a nice addition to this jam. I use one bottled in this country by Bonny Doon Vineyards, but there are many types that come from the Burgundy region of France, where it was invented.
Crème de cassis
is exceptional. Once the bottle is opened, use it within six months for the best flavor.

1
¹
/
₂
- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES

1 to 1
¹
/
₂
pints (1 pound) fresh blueberries, rinsed

Half of a 1.75- or 2-ounce box powdered fruit pectin

1
¹
/
₂
cups sugar, or to taste

3 tablespoons crème de cassis liqueur

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Combine all the ingredients in the bread pan. Let stand for 15 minutes to dissolve the sugar.