Culinary Vietnam (18 page)

1
Butterfly the chicken by slitting each breast horizontally so that it is still joined on one side and then open it up.

2
Place on a cutting board or flat countertop, cover it with plastic wrap, and then gently pound to an even thickness with a meat mallet or a rolling pin.

3
Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl, mix thoroughly, and then coat the chicken. Cover and let marinate for at least 1 hour. Place the chicken on a hot char grill and cook about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Slice and serve with mint leaves, Asian basil or cilantro, cucumber slices, and steamed jasmine rice, if desired.

Clay-Pot Gingered Chicken

Ga Kho Gung

1 whole fryer chicken, cut-up fryer, or 8 chicken thighs

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Salt and pepper

1 large or 2 medium shallots, peeled and sliced

3 inches gingerroot, peeled and sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 to 2 serrano or Thai chiles, sliced

1 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons

Caramel Sauce

3 scallions, cut into 1-1/2-to 2-inch lengths

1/8 cup cilantro leaves

Serves 4 to 6 as a main dish or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

Dishes that are braised in a clay pot are usually identified by the word Kho. They often use Caramel Sauce to help make them rich in flavor. These types of dishes originate in the countryside where cooks, using a simple array of ingredients, coax out the maximum flavor through clever techniques. If you do not have a clay pot, a covered heavy casserole or Dutch oven will also work fine. Serve clay-pot dishes with steamed rice, a vegetable or two, and/or a salad.

1
Rinse the chicken and pat dry. If using a whole chicken, cut into leg, thigh, wing, and breast sections. Cut each section (except the wings) in half again through the bone. You can remove the skin or leave it on, as you prefer.

2
Heat a clay pot or Dutch oven on high and add the oil. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and then brown in the oil; remove from the pot and set aside.

3
Add the shallots and ginger to the hot oil and sauté briefly. Stir in the garlic, sugar, fish sauce, chiles, and browned chicken. Stir several times and then add the broth and Caramel Sauce. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to simmer, and cook for 20 minutes. Uncover, stir, and continue cooking about 15 minutes more. Stir in the scallions, remove from the heat, and let sit for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with cilantro leaves.

Chicken and Sweet Potato Curry

Ca Ri Ga Khoai Lang

2 to 3 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and finely minced

2 shallots or 1 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 to 2 red serrano or Thai chiles or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon dry chile flakes

1 inch galangal or ginger, peeled and chopped

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2-1/2 to 3 pounds bone-in chicken thighs and/or legs (skin removed or not, as you prefer)

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons Vietnamese yellow curry powder or Madras curry powder

1 teaspoon dry turmeric

3 tablespoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup chicken broth or water

1-3/4 cups unsweetened coconut milk (1 [13-ounce] can)

1-1/2 pounds sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (to prevent browning, store in cool water until ready to use)

1/2 cup mixed Asian basil and cilantro leaves

1/2 cup thinly sliced onion or scallions

Serves 4 to 6

Popular in Saigon at street stalls and markets, and in small restaurants as well as at home, Vietnamese curries are a bit lighter than Indian-style recipes and carry the distinctive Vietnamese flavor combination of lemongrass and fish sauce. The sweet potatoes may be replaced with potatoes and/or carrots if you like. This hearty dish is typically served with baguettes or steamed rice. Steamed vegetables or a salad go well with this dish as well.

1
Smash the lemongrass, shallots, garlic, chiles, and galangal in a mortar and pestle, one ingredient at a time, until a paste is formed; or use a food processor.

2
Heat the oil in a heavy pot or deep skillet and season the chicken with salt and pepper; add chicken to the pot, brown on all sides, and then remove.

3
Add the lemongrass paste, curry powder, and turmeric to the hot oil and stir, cooking to release the fragrant flavors. Return the chicken to the pan and add the fish sauce, sugar, broth, and coconut milk; bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer. Cook for 15 minutes and then add the sweet potatoes. Cook 15 to 20 minutes more, or until the potatoes are tender. Turn off the heat and let sit for 15 minutes so the flavors combine. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the herbs and onion.

The People and Flavors of the Mekong Delta

Known as the River of the Nine Dragons because of the nine main branches that it has split into before reaching the sea, the Mekong River has its origins in the highlands of Tibet and passes through China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia on its more than 2,800-mile journey to Vietnam. In addition to the nine main branches, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of smaller waterways and canals that crisscross the delta, providing life-giving water and transportation. The rich soil created from the silt and dirt carried downstream is ideal for a diversity of crops. Rice is number one, closely followed by coconuts and a wide assortment of fruits. Vegetables are also in profusion here, and it seems that there is no shortage of food. The annual income and the overall standard of living in the delta are, in fact, a bit above the other agricultural areas in the country, due to the ease of growing in this verdant region. The rice growers can produce three, sometimes four harvests each year, compared to one or two in the north.

This abundance of staple food products and fresh fruits and vegetables fuels a unique distribution system in the area. Floating markets are seen throughout the region, with the largest and most well-known near Can Tho, the principal and most prosperous city in the Mekong. These floating markets are a riot of color and a cacophony of sounds that begin the day well before dawn.

Although a few tourists do visit the floating markets, these are the real thing and have been around for hundreds of years, because water has always been a safer and more reliable form of transportation than over the jungle-covered land.

The food also shows the wide variety of products in this area; with many fruits, the dishes tend to be a bit sweeter than in the north, and there is a conspicuous use of more spices and herbs than in many parts of Vietnam. Many flavors and techniques have traveled down the river from Thailand and Cambodia, and there is a large percentage of Khmer people here, so the dishes are not as “pure Vietnamese” as in other parts of the country.

Duck Stewed with Pineapple and Cilantro

Vit Nau Dua (Thom)

1 small to medium duck, trimmed and cut into 9 to 12 pieces (leave the bone in)