Culinary Vietnam (21 page)

Shrimp in Caramel Sauce

Tom Kho

24 ounces medium-to-large shrimp, split and deveined with the shell left on

3 tablespoons

Caramel Sauce

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 shallots, or 1 small white onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger (optional)

Dash of salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 scallions, thinly sliced

Serves 2 to 3 as a main dish or 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

This is another dish that is traditionally cooked in a clay pot, but it may also be prepared in a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven. Slow cooking with the Caramel Sauce and usually only a few other ingredients for flavor coaxes out the most flavor from simple fare. I like the typical unpeeled shrimp for more flavor and texture, but they may be peeled if you prefer. Do not be concerned about overcooking the shrimp; they turn out very nice with an interesting texture and beautiful color, despite the seemingly overlong cooking time. The same method will also work well with firm catfish. Serve with jasmine rice.

1
In a preheated clay pot or heavy saucepan, place the shrimp, Caramel Sauce, fish sauce, shallots, garlic, ginger, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to just below boiling, give it a good stir, and partially cover the pot. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the lid and continue cooking about 5 to 6 minutes more, adding a little water if needed to prevent burning. (The shrimp should release some juices to keep the sauce fairly moist.) The sauce should be thick and coating the shrimp when done. Remove from the heat and stir in the oil and scallions; serve immediately.

Ingredients from the sea are featured in a huge number of Vietnamese recipes. The Vietnamese are almost fanatical about the freshness of their seafood. Many sea creatures are still alive and swimming moments before they are cooked.

Charcoal Grilled Squid, Shrimp, Vegetables, and Fruit

Muc Voi Tom Nuong Lac Canh

Marinade

3 tablespoons minced shallots

2 teaspoons

Chile-Garlic-Oil Table Condiment

, or 3 cloves garlic smashed into a smooth paste with 1 to 2 serrano or Thai chiles or 1/2 teaspoon dry chile flakes

1/3 cup finely minced lemongrass

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Dash of salt

2 tablespoons lime juice

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Tomatoes, onions, jicama, scallions, okra, pineapple, apple, mushrooms, asparagus, long green beans, bell peppers, chiles, and any other vegetables or fruits that you like, cut into sizes appropriate for grilling and manipulating with chopsticks 1 to 1-1/2 pounds large shrimp, preferably with head and shell on, but peeled may also be used

1 to 1-1/2 pounds small whole squid (3 to 5 inches is perfect), cleaned

Serves 3 to 4 as a main dish or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

In Nha Trang, the beach resort and fishing community on the southeastern coast of Vietnam, fresh seafood is everywhere. To enjoy the abundant harvest from the sea, you need go no farther than the beach, where ladies are bearing don gang—the clever setup of a bamboo pole hoisted over the shoulder with two baskets suspended on each end. One basket is full of fresh fish, prawns, lobster, squid, and a myriad of other delicacies, and the other holds a charcoal grill. They will be happy to prepare your selection on the spot. Tourists and locals alike also flock to the Lac Canh restaurant, where you can also order fresh seafood and an array of marinated meats and vegetables to be cooked by you on the clay brazier filled with glowing charcoal embers and brought to your table. The aroma of the sizzling delights combined with the blue smoke in the air and the clink of ice cubes in the beer glasses is intoxicating. This recipe, using prawns and squid, is inspired by that experience; however, feel free to choose any seafood that you fancy—the fresher the better. If you are not set up for the grill-your-own style of serving, you can always grill the seafood and vegetables ahead of time and serve them on a platter. Serve with limes and dipping sauces.

1
Mix all of the marinade ingredients together well and let sit for a few minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Remove one-third of the marinade and toss with the vegetables and fruit.

2
Combine the remaining marinade with the shrimp and squid, and marinate for 20 to 30 minutes.

NOTE:
If using shell-on shrimp, trim the legs and antenna with scissors to prevent burning (you may also split and devein the shrimp to allow more of the marinade flavor to penetrate).

3
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium high. Grill the seafood, vegetables, and fruits in batches. Your guests should begin eating as soon as the first items are ready, and the cooking duties may rotate as everyone enjoys the results.

Grilled Fish Fillets with Ginger Sauce

Ca Nuong Nuoc Xot Gung

24 ounces fresh fish fillets (snapper, halibut, sea bass, tuna, etc.), cut into 4 portions

1/4 cup lime juice

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill leaves

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into 3 smaller slices

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 to 2 red serrano or Thai chiles, stemmed and thinly sliced

2 stalks lemongrass, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons fish or soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup rice wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons rice wine or distilled white vinegar

2 scallions, thinly sliced into rings

1/8 cup cool chicken broth or water mixed with 2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons finely julienned ginger

Serves 4

A somewhat contemporary dish combining Vietnamese and Chinese flavors, the grilled fish could also be prepared by pan-searing. For a more dramatic presentation, use a whole fish and portion it at the table. This could also be part of a large feast with many dishes. As with all Vietnamese cooking, the freshness of the fish is the most important secret to the success of this recipe. Serve with steamed rice, stir-fried vegetables, and a salad.