Culinary Vietnam (9 page)

30 Vietnamese or Thai basil leaves, shredded

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro

1 red serrano, jalapeño, or Thai bird’s-eye chile, minced

1 cup

Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts

Serves 6

This refreshing salad juxtaposes the sweet-tart flavor of the pomelo, a larger and sweeter cousin of the grapefruit, with the savory smokiness of grilled shrimp, all enhanced by the fragrance of the cilantro and basil along with the crunchy peanuts. Serve it as part of a multicourse meal or as a lunch or light supper main course. If you cannot find pomelo, substitute the sweetest grapefruit that you can find.

1
Soak six to ten bamboo or wooden skewers in hot water for about 30 minutes; set aside.

2
Mix the fish sauce, soy sauce, shallot, pepper, and sugar with the shrimp; let marinate for 20 to 30 minutes, then add the oil and toss.

3
Soak the carrots and cucumber in lightly salted ice water for 20 minutes and drain.

4
Place the shrimp on the skewers and grill over high heat just until done. Toss the carrots, cucumber, pomelo, basil, cilantro, chile, and dipping sauce in a bowl, then add the cooked shrimp and toss gently. Arrange on a platter or in individual servings and sprinkle the peanuts over the top. Serve immediately.

One could explore and taste the food in Hanoi for years and not yet experience all there is to offer.

Cucumber and Tomato Basic Salad

Nom Chua Ngot

1 large or 2 medium English cucumbers, or 6 pickling cucumbers

2 to 3 well-ripened medium tomatoes, sliced and then cut in half to make half-moon shapes

3 tablespoons rice or distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 to 4 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1-1/2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/2 to 1 red or green serrano or Thai chile, thinly sliced (optional)

2 teaspoons vegetable oil (optional)

1/8 cup cilantro leaves

Freshly ground black pepper (optional)

Serves 4 to 6

This is a case where simple ingredients come together to create a stunning dish that makes a wonderful accompaniment to many other recipes, particularly rich stews and grilled meats or seafood. I often order a version of this when I am dining in Vietnam, and I almost always make it for my table at home. The key is good cucumbers and tomatoes—don’t even attempt to use the pinkish winter tomatoes and the standard waxed cucumbers from most supermarkets, or you will be disappointed. The dressing is designed to bring out the flavors in fresh foods and not to hide them. I also find myself dipping a tomato or cucumber slice from this salad into the dipping sauce on the table for an extra burst of salty flavor. The vegetable oil is a Western option but does add a nice flavor balance and gives the salad some shine. I sometimes add freshly ground black pepper just before serving.

1
Peel the cucumbers, or not, as you wish, then thinly slice and arrange on a plate with the tomatoes.

2
Mix the vinegar, lime juice, garlic, sugar, salt, shallots, and chile in a bowl, and let sit for a few minutes to allow the flavors to mingle. Whisk in the oil, if using, and pour over the tomatoes and cucumbers. To garnish, sprinkle on the cilantro and black pepper, if using, and serve.

Shrimp, Pork, and Cabbage Salad

Goi Tom Thit

1/4 head (about 1/3 pound) green cabbage

1 medium carrot, peeled

1/2 medium red or white onion, peeled and very thinly sliced

1/4 cup lime juice

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

Dash of salt

1 tablespoon water

1 or 2 serrano or Thai chiles, sliced (optional)

4 ounces cooked small or large shrimp, coarsely chopped

4 to 6 ounces cooked pork, thinly sliced into bite-size pieces

1/2 English or hothouse cucumber, or 2 to 3 pickling cucumbers, thinly sliced

24 leaves Vietnamese coriander or Asian basil, cut in half (or omit and triple the amount of cilantro called for)

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped cilantro

1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts

Serves 4 as a light meal or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

Easy to make and a great outlet for leftover meat, this salad and its many variations is popular throughout the country. Feel free to use cooked chicken, beef, fish, and other seafood in place of the shrimp and pork. You can also vary the herbs and add other greens as well as using chiles, or not, as it suits you. Very thinly sliced vegetables are the hallmark of this salad and they give a refreshing crunch to go along with the meats.

1
Slice the cabbage very thinly, then cut the carrot into a very thin julienne about 2 inches long; place both in a bowl with very cold water to cover and place in the refrigerator to soak and crisp for 20 to 30 minutes.

2
Combine the onion, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, salt, water, and chiles in a bowl; place the shrimp and pork in this dressing to marinate 10 to 15 minutes before assembling the salad.

3
Drain the carrots and cabbage, then pat dry with a towel or dry in a salad spinner. Add to the dressing along with the cucumber, herbs, and half of the peanuts; toss well. Place on a serving dish and top with the remaining peanuts.

Spicy Cabbage and Chicken Salad

Goi Cai Bap Ga

1/2 clove garlic, peeled

1 small shallot bulb, peeled

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 to 2 serrano or Thai chiles, stems removed and coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup rice vinegar or distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Juice of 1 lime

1/8 cup chopped cilantro, Vietnamese coriander, or Asian basil

2 tablespoons vegetable oil (optional)

8 to 10 ounces cooked and shredded chicken

1 medium-to-large carrot, peeled and shredded or finely julienned

1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced*

12 ounces cabbage (1 small head or about 1/2 medium head), cored and cut into strips no wider than 1/2 inch

1 or 2 scallions, cut into 2-inch sections and finely julienned

Serves 4 as a main dish or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

This tasty salad is a great lunch or light supper main course on a hot summer day. In Vietnam, a salad such as this may be served with soup, and diners often will combine the two. The sweet, sour, and spicy hot balance of flavors in the dressing complement the slight bitterness of the cabbage, and the entire salad is a textural delight. Shrimp or crab could be used instead of the chicken, and the vegetarian version is also nice. I like Savoy cabbage for this dish, as it is a bit milder, and I prefer the texture; however, any variety of cabbage will work well, including purple cabbage for a color contrast.

1
Crush the garlic, shallot, salt, and chiles in a mortar and pestle until they form a paste. (If you do not have a mortar and pestle, chop everything together as fine as possible, smash with the blade of your knife, and then chop again.)
2
Mix the chile-garlic paste with the sugar, vinegar, fish sauce, soy sauce, lime juice, and herbs. Let sit for a few minutes to mingle the flavors, then whisk in the oil, if using.