Culinary Vietnam (6 page)

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon

Chile-Garlic-Oil Table Condiment

; 1 teaspoon chile-garlic paste; or 1 clove garlic, crushed and mixed with 1/2 teaspoon dry red chile flakes

1 teaspoon vegetable oil or toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons finely minced lemongrass or ginger (optional)

1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder (optional)

Makes enough to marinate 1 to 2 pounds meat

This basic Chinese-influenced marinade works well for seasoning meats that are to be grilled, particularly beef or pork. It adds a sweet and tangy flavor, and creates a light glaze on the meat when cooked. If applied to the meat at least 1 hour before cooking, it will also help tenderize it.

1
Mix all of the ingredients together before applying to the meat. The marinade will keep in the refrigerator for several days.

Appetizers, Snacks & Beverages

These dishes are eaten as snacks rather than first courses on Vietnamese tables, but could be used as appetizers or side dishes in a menu with courses. They represent only a few of the many snack-like dishes that are usually seen at curbside eateries and Vietnamese beer pubs. They can be eaten as a light lunch with one of the beverages as well.

Grilled Lemongrass Beef Skewers

Thit Bo Nuong Xa

Marinade

4 tablespoons minced lemongrass

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1 to 2 teaspoons minced hot chiles or chile paste (optional)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon shrimp sauce or hoisin sauce

Dash of salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons raw or brown sugar

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (optional)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Beef Skewers

1-1/2 pounds sirloin, top round, or chuck steak, sliced 1/4 inch thick and cut into strips about 3 x 1 inches

24 to 32 bamboo or wooden skewers

Makes 24 to 32 skewers, enough for 8 to 10 appetizers or 4 to 6 main courses

This appetizer or snack is a well-known specialty of the central regions around Hue, Da Nang, and Hoi An, but you will find versions throughout the country. I once had a delicious version made with pork at a street stall operated by three lovely young ladies in Sapa, the far north of Vietnam. Shrimp sauce may be used here for extra richness, but if you do not have it or find it too strong for your taste, just use the hoisin option or omit it altogether.

In Vietnam, these skewers are cooked over charcoal, and a direct flame method is definitely preferred to provide that smoky flavor. These tasty skewers may be part of a full meal or, when served with a salad and some rice, they can make a great lunch or dinner.

1
Mix the marinade ingredients together and then combine with the meat, taking care to coat all surfaces. Cover and marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. (If marinating for more than 1 hour, refrigerate and remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking.)
2
Soak the wooden skewers in hot water for at least 30 minutes to prevent burning. Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium high. Thread 1 to 2 pieces of the beef on each skewer and place on the grill. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned and a bit blackened around the edges. Serve immediately with Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce; Salt, Pepper, and Lime Dipping Sauce; or other favorite dipping sauce.

Southern-Style Salad Hand Rolls

Goi Cuon

16 to 18 rice paper rounds (8 to 9 inches in diameter)

16 to 18 leaves lettuce (butter or leaf)

1/2 pound cooked and sliced pork (leftover grilled pork is great here) or cooked ground pork

1/4 to 1/3 pound rice vermicelli, cooked in boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes just until done, then rinsed in cool water

2 to 3 scallions (green part only), cut into 1-inch sections

1 to 2 medium carrots, peeled and grated

16 to 18 cilantro sprigs

16 to 18 fresh mint sprigs or other Vietnamese herbs like Asian basil

1/2 to 3/4 pound cooked small or medium shrimp, cut in half lengthwise

1 cup bean sprouts (optional)

Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

or

Soy-Lime Dipping Sauce

Sweet Chile Sauce

(optional)

Makes 16 to 18 rolls

Considered by many non-Vietnamese to be one of the standard items of Vietnamese cooking, these rolls are often labeled as spring or summer rolls, more properly a name for a Chinese roll using wheat-flour wrappers. These rolls, however, reflect the fresh tastes of Vietnamese food, and the ingredients used are flexible, allowing for what is on hand or for leftovers.

1
Dip a rice paper in a bowl of warm water for a few seconds, blot it dry on a towel, and place it on a plate or other work surface. Place a lettuce leaf in the lower center of the rice paper. Top with some of the pork, noodles, scallions, carrots, cilantro, and other herbs. Fold the bottom flap of the paper over the filling, and then roll one turn away from you. Place some of the shrimp and bean sprouts, if using, on the rice paper in front of the roll and turn again. (This is so that the shrimp and bean sprouts can be seen from the outside of the roll). Fold each side flap to meet in the center, slightly overlapping. Roll the wrap away from you to form a sealed roll. Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauces.

Many cooks are daunted by the unfamiliar ingredients called for in foreign cuisine. Vietnamese cooking has a whole array of these, but the truth is, a good number of authentic dishes may be produced with only a few essentials.

Stuffed Squid

Muc Nhoi Thit

2 ounces cellophane noodles (bean thread)

3/4 ounce dried tree ear or other Chinese mushrooms (the amount should loosely fill a 3/4-cup measure)

12 squid, approximately 4 to 6 inches long

1/2 pound minced or ground pork

1 teaspoon minced lemongrass or ginger

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons lime juice

1/2 cup finely chopped scallions

1/4 teaspoon ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon dry chile flakes (optional)

1/3 cup vegetable oil

Soy-Lime Dipping Sauce

or

Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

Serves 6 to 10 as an appetizer or 4 to 6 as a main course

Of course, fresh squid is preferred for this recipe, but I have had good results with frozen squid too. You may also substitute minced chicken or shrimp for the pork here for an interesting variation.

1
Soak the noodles in hot water until soft and just edible, drain and rinse in cold water, and then cut into bite-size lengths. (Do not let noodles get too soft as they will be cooked more in a later step.)
2
Soak the mushrooms in boiling water until pliable, about 10 to 15 minutes, and then remove the stems and chop finely.

3
Clean the squid, and if there are any tentacles, chop them finely and add them to the filling.

4
Mix together the pork, mushrooms, lemongrass, fish sauce, lime juice, scallions, pepper, sugar, and chile flakes, and then mix in the noodles. Poke a small hole in the narrow end of each squid as an air vent to allow stuffing. Fill each squid body, loosely, leaving about 1/2 inch at one end. Close the end and secure with a toothpick. Heat the oil in a pan (you may want a deep pan here to prevent splattering oil), then sear the squid for 2 to 3 minutes, or until some color develops. Reduce the heat slightly and braise for 8 to 10 minutes more, or until the filling is fairly firm and the outside is a deep golden brown. Drain and allow to rest for several minutes to firm the filling. Remove the toothpicks and slice in bite-size pieces, about 1/4 inch thick. Serve with dipping sauces.

Madam Huy’s Stuffed Clams

Con Trai Huy

2-1/2 pounds fresh medium-size clams

1/2 cup cold water

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and sliced into quarters, each slice gently flattened with the side of a knife to release the flavor