Culinary Vietnam (8 page)

Authors: Daniel Hoyer

BOOK: Culinary Vietnam

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1
Bring the water to a boil. Rinse a heavy teapot with the extra boiled water to warm it up and then discard that water. Place the loose tea in the tea pot and add 2 cups water. NOTE: The water should not be boiling when you add it to the tea, as this causes bitterness.

2
Place the lid on the teapot and allow to steep for 4 to 5 minutes. Pour into glasses, sweeten with sugar or honey if desired, and enjoy.

Vietnamese Coffee

Ca Phe

1 to 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk (optional)

3 level tablespoons freshly ground dark-roast coffee beans (about 1-1/2 ounces)

3/4 cup water

Makes 1 cup

The French planted coffee beans in Vietnam, and the plantations were a big contributor to the income of these colonial occupiers. The legacy continues as Vietnam recently moved into the No. 2 position among world coffee-exporting countries. The people of Vietnam inherited the taste for rich, darkly roasted coffee beans from the French, and coffee vendors can be found on almost every street; it closely rivals tea in popularity. Coffee is usually brewed with individual drip-through gadgets that sit on top of the cup. Any sweetener or flavoring is first placed in the cup, then the brewer is loaded with finely ground, dark-roast coffee and set on top of the cup or glass. Boiling water is poured in the brewer, and a lid is placed on top. It sometimes seems to take a long time for the water to drip slowly through the coffee grounds, but the result is a rich, almost syrupy thick, delightful brew that is incredibly satisfying. The classic choices are Ca Phe (straight coffee), Ca Phe Sua (coffee with sweetened condensed milk), Ca Phe Da (coffee with ice) and Ca Phe Sua Da (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). Vietnamese beans taste great, but any high-quality French or other dark roast is fine.

1
Put the sweetened condensed milk, if using, in the bottom of a glass that will hold 8 ounces or more of liquid.

2
Place the coffee in the brewing device. Screw down the screen that holds the grounds in place, snug but not too tight. Set on top of the glass or cup. Pour boiling water slowly into the brewer over the top of the grounds. Place the lid on top and let the water drip through the coffee. When all of the coffee has dripped into the glass or cup, remove the brewer, stir, and enjoy.

Salads

Salads are an excellent expression of the Vietnamese cooking style: crunchy, fresh, the juxtaposition of sweet, sour, and hot flavors along with beautiful colors and presentation. Many other dishes in the Vietnamese culinary repertoire also seem to contain components of salads. Many of these recipes can serve a dual purpose, as a part of a multicourse meal or as a stand-alone meal. Please enjoy the following recipes and also use them as your inspiration to create salads of your own.

Cucumber and Shrimp Salad

Goi or Nom Dua Chuoi

1/3 to 1/2 pound thinly sliced beefsteak, sirloin, chuck, or top round

1/2 recipe

Marinade for Grilled Meats

; or a combination of 2 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce, 1 teaspoon chile garlic paste, 1 teaspoon chopped ginger, 1 teaspoon sugar, and 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 pounds cucumbers (English or hothouse varieties work best, as they do not need peeling), sliced in half lengthwise and seeded

1 medium-to-large carrot, peeled and julienned with a knife

1 small-to-medium white or red onion, peeled and cut in half, thinly sliced to produce half-moon slivers

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

Dressing

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon rice or distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup fish sauce

1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon finely minced shallots

1 to 2 serrano or Thai chiles, thinly sliced

1 cup cooked and shredded chicken breast

3/4 cup cooked small shrimp

1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts

Lettuce or cabbage leaves for the base of the salad (optional)

Serves 4 to 6 as a main dish or more as part of a larger meal

I first tasted this dish at the Folk Song Restaurant on Hue. I was having dinner with Ms. Huy, an Imperial cuisine chef and culinary school instructor, and several university students, who have since graduated and become good friends. Typical of a popular Vietnamese salad, this recipe is often served when there are special guests or for celebrations. While this one calls for a combination of shrimp, chicken, and beef, it can certainly be prepared using only one or two of those components. I have also seen this salad made using pork instead of beef. However, some protein is important to provide richness that contrasts with the crunchy bright flavors of the vegetables.

1
Place the beef in the marinade; set aside.

2
Thinly slice the cucumbers and place them in a bowl with the carrot and onion slices. Toss with salt and sugar; let sit for about 20 minutes, then drain and thoroughly rinse in cold running water. Gently squeeze the excess moisture out of the vegetables a few at a time using a smooth cloth towel.

3
Mix all of the dressing ingredients together; set aside.

4
Cook the marinated beef on a grill or sear in a large pan with just a touch of oil. When cooled, slice into thin strips by cutting across the grain of the meat. Place the meat, chicken, shrimp, and vegetables in a bowl with half of the peanuts and toss together. Add the dressing and toss again.

5
Place the salad on a serving plate lined with lettuce or cabbage leaves, if using, and top with the remaining peanuts.