Everyday Pasta (29 page)

makes 12

I love these cheesy, salty, crispy wafers not only because they are so yummy, but because they are so versatile. I put them in bread baskets, add them to soups, and serve them topped with scoops of salad.

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place tablespoon-size mounds of Parmesan on the paper at least 2 inches apart. Gently flatten each mound of cheese with the bottom of a glass or the back of a spoon and sprinkle with black pepper. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the cheese has spread out to a 1- to 1½-inch round and is bubbling and golden around the edges. Place the baking sheet on a wire rack to cool the frico completely.

The late, great winemaker Giacomo Conterno once said, “Wine nourishes the soul.” To me there is nothing more satisfying than an excellent plate of pasta matched to perfection with a simple glass of wine. Together they spark an explosion of flavors far beyond what each can provide on its own. Of course, nothing pairs better with an Italian meal than an
Italian wine, although for many wine buyers a stroll down the Italian aisle of their wine store can be confusing. Once you’ve learned a bit about them, though, you’ll find there is an exciting gamut of Italian wines beyond Chianti and Pinot Grigio.

The history of wine in Italy spans more than twenty-eight centuries, back to the eighth century B.C., when the ancient Greeks settled in southern Italy. (In fact the Greeks were so impressed with the Italian climate they named the region Oenotria, land of the trained vine.) I can think of few places where wine is more seamlessly woven into the fabric of everyday life than in Italy; it is as much a part of life there as is pasta or tomatoes. And while Italy produces some of the world’s finest (and most costly) wines, it is hardly a pleasure that is reserved for the elite. In a country where the vintner may also be the pasta maker and the cook, Italian wine is best enjoyed at the lunch and dinner table. Just as wine enhances the food, the food enhances the wine, creating a marriage of flavors for all the senses.

The styles and flavors of Italian wines vary greatly from north in the snowy Alps to south at the sunny shores of the Mediterranean. Much like the food, the wines reflect the landscape of the people, the weather, and the geographic location. Northern regions like Piedmont, Lombardy, and Alto Adige produce wines that tend to be more reserved, refined, and perfumed. Toward the center of Italy in Tuscany and Umbria the wines gain in exuberance and sophistication. Down in the warmest parts of Italy like Apulia, Sicily, and Sardinia, the wines tend to be extremely flavorful, spicy, and almost sunbaked in style.

When selecting wine to complement Italian food, both Giada and I seek out wines we enjoy. There are no rules, just enjoyment. Wine can be complex and intimidating if you let it, so don’t. Wine is fun! Whether you are celebrating an important event or just cooking an everyday meal at home, the most important thing is to remember what you like: If you like it, it is good. It’s just that easy. That said, there are a few helpful hints to guide you on this journey of enjoyment of Italian wine. The key is keeping it simple, much as they do in Italy. You can never go wrong if you follow what I call the body and flavor rules. Reduced down to its purest terms, that means the lighter the course, the lighter the wine; the more flavorful the course, the more flavorful the wine. This rule applies equally to white, red, sparkling, and dessert wines.

When choosing a wine to serve with your pasta, ask yourself about the overall meal. Is it a light, delicate menu or is it a hearty, robust repast? The goal is to match the two. For example: Giada’s Pappardelle with Lamb Stew brings to mind sitting by the wood-burning stove on a cold rainy night in Alba as the rich aroma of a savory ragù fills the air. To match the stew, a hearty-style wine like those made in Barolo and Barbaresco from the Nebbiolo grape would be a fitting partner as they tend to be full-bodied and full-flavored, and have a warming effect. On the lighter side, I might choose a more elegant and delicate wine, like a Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio from the Alto Adige or Friuli areas, to pair with her Rotini with Salmon and Roasted Garlic; either wine would be a perfect foil and enhancement for the richness of the fish and the sweetness of the roasted garlic.

At right is a cheat sheet listing the primary characteristics of some of the most popular Italian wines. It will tell you whether a particular wine is light, medium, or heavy in body, as well as the key flavor note, from spicy to fruity, delicate to zesty. Using these cues, you can easily find a wine that will mirror the tone of your meal to a tee. When in doubt, though, I always recommend consulting a professional. I have been in the business for more than twenty years, but when I am on the road in a small village in the middle of a remote area shopping for wine and food, I occasionally find myself stumped as to the ideal wine to go with my dinner. I never hesitate to ask someone who might be able to give a little advice based on what I am cooking that night. Invariably I discover something new and exciting that tastes great—and pay far less than I expected.

Happy cooking and happy tasting!

Reds

Nebbiolo
(medium, zesty)

Barbaresco
(heavy, zesty)

Sangiovese
(light, fruity)

Barolo
(heavy, zesty)

Barbera
(medium, zesty)

Dolcetto
(light, fruity)

Valpolicella
(light, zesty)

Amarone
(heavy, spicy)

Chianti
(medium, zesty)

Nero d’Avola
(medium, spicy)

Montepulciano
(medium, fruity)

Brunello di Montalcino
(heavy, zesty)

Aglianico
(heavy, spicy)

Super Tuscan
(heavy, zesty)

Syrah
(heavy, spicy)

Whites

Pinot Grigio
(light, delicate)

Chardonnay
(heavy, zesty)

Pinot Bianco
(medium, zesty)

Sauvignon
(light, fruity)

Tocai Fruliano
(light, delicate)

Arneis
(medium, zesty)

Gavi
(light, delicate)

Vernaccia
(medium, zesty)

Soave
(medium, zesty)

Muscat/Moscato
(medium, fruity)

Vin Santo
(heavy, spicy)

Vermintino
(medium, zesty)

Trebbiano
(medium, spicy)

Greco
(medium, spicy)

We are grateful to the companies listed below for the use of their products in this book:

Corporate Headquarters
Seattle Design Center
5701 Sixth Avenue South, Suite 486
Seattle, WA 98108
Store locations nationwide or visit
www.surlatable.com

148 South La Brea Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 935-3157

Urban Outfitters, Inc. Corporate Headquarters
1809 Walnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Retail locations nationwide or visit
www.anthropologie.com

Available at
www.global-knife.com
, or visit
www.sointuusa.com

A

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