Giada at Home: Family Recipes From Italy and California (11 page)

Pasta and—more and more these days—nutritious whole grains are as much a fixture on American tables as they are in Italy, and for good reason. Both pasta and grains are satisfying, healthful, and the perfect blank canvas for any seasonal ingredients you might want to add. They can be hearty and filling or light and refreshing, depending on the weather or your mood. But beyond that, pasta may just be the ultimate comfort food, which is why I still love making the traditional dishes Italian families such as mine have enjoyed for generations.

Nothing makes me feel happier or more satisfied than a plate of pasta and meatballs, the pasta a hearty buccatini with amatriciana sauce and the meatballs, stuffed with smoked mozzarella, served on the side in the classic Italian style. Cold winter days positively demand something cheesy and hot from the oven, and for those times nothing is more soothing than a casserole of farro, an Italian grain similar to barley. It’s hard to imagine that anything could improve on these time-trusted standards.

When I’m craving something a little lighter, though, my creativity kicks into high gear.
Fusilli with Spicy Pesto
blends an Italian staple with flavors and ingredients borrowed from Mexican cooking for a zesty dish I love to serve with grilled steak. Pasta salads, a uniquely American invention that you will rarely encounter in Italy, are an easy way to create all-in-one meals that work for lunch, dinner, and even picnics. Take my
Spaghetti with Beef, Smoked Almonds, and Basil
: it’s a great way to serve beef and pasta without making it a heavy meal, just what you want on a warm day and without the fuss.

Bucatini All’Amatriciana with Spicy Smoked Mozzarella Meatballs

This dish is a real mouthful—literally! The pancetta-rich sauce and cheesy meatballs are each delicious on their own and make an irresistible combination. For years my aunt Raffy and I have agreed to disagree on the “right” way to make Amatriciana sauce. She starts with whole tomatoes that cook down to a chunkier sauce, and adds a bit of wine as it cooks. I prefer the lighter, smoother texture of a sauce made with crushed tomatoes (which also save a bit of effort) and think it tastes fresher without the wine. Either way, though, this recipe is a keeper that you’ll turn to again and again.

For the sauce: In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta and set aside.

Add the onion to the skillet and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, salt, black pepper, and the cooked pancetta. Simmer, uncovered, over medium-low heat until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes. Stir in the Pecorino Romano cheese and season with salt and pepper, if needed.

For the meatballs: Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, combine the onion, ½ cup of the parsley, ⅔ cup of the Parmesan cheese, the bread crumbs, egg, ketchup, garlic, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Add the beef and veal. Using your hands, combine the ingredients gently but thoroughly. Shape the meat mixture into 16 1½-inch-diameter meatballs and place on the prepared baking sheet. Make a depression in the center of each meatball and place a cube of mozzarella inside. Re-form the meatball so that the mozzarella is completely covered with the meat mixture.

Bake the meatballs for 15 minutes, or until cooked through.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes.

Drain the pasta and place in a large serving bowl. Add the sauce. Toss gently and season with salt and pepper, if needed. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup parsley and ¼ cup Parmesan cheese. Put the meatballs in a separate bowl and serve alongside the pasta.

This dish hails from northern Italy, where the climate is mushroom-happy and cream sauces are the norm. In lean times, frugal Italian cooks often substituted mushrooms for meat in dishes like this one because their meaty texture and earthy flavor give the sauce real substance. I often make this as a veggie option for parties, and even the carnivores go for it.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn the heat to high. Add the wine and cook for 3 minutes, or until all the liquid evaporates. Add the broth and simmer until the liquid is slightly reduced.

Remove the pan from the heat. Add the mascarpone cheese and stir until creamy. Drain the pasta, reserving about 1 cup of the pasta water, and transfer to a serving bowl. Add the mushroom mixture and the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper and toss well to coat the pasta, adding the reserved pasta water, if needed, to loosen the pasta. Garnish with the chopped chives.

We should all be eating more dark leafy greens, but sometimes a side dish of steamed chard is a tough sell. Not so with this pasta, which is full of bright colors and flavors. If you’re not familiar with ricotta salata, it may remind you of feta cheese but with a milder flavor and creamier texture. This is a pasta dish I really feel good about eating, and with all those greens and the protein contributed by the garbanzos, it’s a complete meal.