Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook: A Seasonal, Vegetarian Cookbook (13 page)

If you think sushi is all about raw fish, think again. The word “sushi” is actually an umbrella term that refers to a variety of foods based on cold cooked rice pressed into different shapes. The type of sushi made in this chapter might more properly be called nori rolls, but why quibble? I just call it delectable. The first time I had it was back in the late 1970s, when I was studying creative arts in education in Boulder, Colorado, and some new friends invited me to join them for lunch. They served brown rice and vegetables wrapped in toasted nori with a spicy wasabi dip (aka maki sushi), and I fell in love at first bite.

Maki sushi is nutritious and delicious, and once you’ve practiced a bit, it’s easy to make. It’s also beautiful and lends itself to culinary artistry. You can create an endless variety of colorful mosaic patterns by using different varieties of rice—or even a rice medley—and different combinations of filling ingredients. For color and flavor, seasonal vegetables are a must, whether raw, steamed, stir-fried, marinated, or pickled. Including strips of pan-fried tofu, gingered tempeh, or plain omelet completes the protein, while raw and toasted seeds, such as sunflower, pumpkin, sesame, chia, and hemp, will add texture, minerals, and a little more protein.

You may notice that I don’t add vinegar and sugar to the rice, as is traditional. I prefer to keep the rice simple, so the flavors of the filling ingredients really shine. This also allows you to enjoy the subtle and unique flavors of the many tasty, exotic varieties of rice we’re lucky to have access to these days. Beyond that old standby, short-grain brown rice, you can also use sweet brown rice, Jade Pearl rice, Chinese black rice, Bhutanese red rice, or a combination. This chapter starts with recipes for four different rice fillings, but feel free to experiment with any type of rice you like. Short-grain varieties usually yield the best results, since they tend to cook up sticky, but if you want to try something different, I say go for it! If you want to use a combination other than those in this chapter and need some guidance on cooking them together, see page 27.

However you make them, you’ll find that nori rolls are also very versatile fare. They’re great for lunch, dinner, or appetizers. Served with a bowl of
Miso Watercress Soup
and
Lemony Carrot and Beet Salad
, nori rolls can be the centerpiece of a special dinner party. And because they travel well, they also make great picnic or potluck fare.

When you first start making nori rolls, or if you experiment with long-grain rice, be sure to cook it with about one-third sweet brown rice to help the rice stick together. Otherwise you might end up with a roll that doesn’t stick together well or that just doesn’t turn out right. Don’t despair! Just serve the ingredients artfully arranged in a bowl and call it chirashi sushi (which means “scattered sushi”). No one will be the wiser. In fact, they’ll think you’re ahead of the curve and onto the next big thing in sushi. Either way, it will still taste delicious.

Although white sushi rice is traditionally used for making nori rolls, brown rice is nutritionally superior, having more B vitamins and fiber. And unlike long-grain brown rice, which cooks up fluffy, short-grain brown rice has a slight sticky quality that’s perfect for nori rolls, especially if you cook it in a pressure cooker as in the variations below.

Makes enough rice for at least 8 nori rolls

2 cups short-grain brown rice, rinsed

4 cups cold water

Pinch of sea salt

Combine the rice, water, and salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 40 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed. Uncover the rice and let it stand for about 1 hour, until cool enough to handle, before making nori rolls. If the rice is too hot, it will steam holes in the nori.

Variations

Cook the rice with 3 slices of fresh ginger.

Use 1 cup each of short-grain brown rice and sweet brown rice.

Swap Jade Pearl rice for the brown rice and decrease the simmering time to 20 minutes.

To use a pressure cooker with a rice crock instead of a saucepan, decrease the amount of water to 3 cups and cook for about 40 minutes, following the method on page 36.

Cooking with Chinese black rice or Bhutanese red rice adds more color to nori rolls, making them a feast for the eyes, as well as the palate.

Makes enough rice for at least 8 nori rolls

1½ cups Chinese black rice, such as Forbidden Rice, or Bhutanese red rice

½ cup sweet brown rice, rinsed

4 cups cold water

Pinch of sea salt

Combine the rice, water, and salt in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed. Uncover the rice and let it stand for about 1 hour, until cool enough to handle, before making nori rolls.

Variations

To use a pressure cooker with a rice crock instead of a saucepan, decrease the amount of water to 3 cups and cook for about 30 minutes, following the method on page 36.

Enhanced nutrition along with fantastic flavor makes Chinese black rice, Bhutanese red rice, and sweet brown rice a great rice combination. This trio also makes for an attractive mosaic of colors. Nori rolls that pair this rice blend with steamed beets, carrots, and kale are especially delicious.

Makes enough rice for at least 8 nori rolls

¾ cup black forbidden rice

¾ cup Bhutanese red rice

½ cup sweet brown rice, rinsed

4 cups cold water

Pinch of sea salt

Combine the rice, water, and salt in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed. Uncover the rice and let it stand for about 1 hour, until cool enough to handle, before making nori rolls.

Variations

To use a pressure cooker with a rice crock instead of a saucepan, decrease the amount of water to 3 cups and cook for about 30 minutes, following the method on page 36.

I came up with this quick cooking method quite by accident and have since used it time and time again. A neighbor called me just as the rice had come to a boil and I needed to go over to her house. I turned off the rice, and when I got back about 30 minutes later, it was cooked to perfection. You could try this method with other quick-cooking grains if you like. Jade Pearl rice is an especially delicious choice for nori rolls filled with
Gingered Tempeh and Shiitakes
and mesclun.

Makes enough rice for at least 8 nori rolls

2 cups Jade Pearl rice

4 cups water

Pinch of sea salt

Combine the rice, water, and salt in a large saucepan. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for about 3 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the residual heat cook the rice. The rice will be ready in 20 to 30 minutes, when all of the water is absorbed. Uncover the rice and let it stand for about 1 hour, until cool enough to handle, before making nori rolls.

Sushi Extravaganza!

The sky’s the limit when it comes to fillings for nori rolls. Below you’ll find a wide variety of suggestions. Mix and match to your heart’s content—and your palate’s delight. Rotate the vegetables with the seasons: asparagus in spring, zucchini in summer, cucumber in late summer, daikon radish in the fall, beets in winter… Look for pickled ginger and naturally fermented pickled vegetables such as pickled ginger carrots, red sauerkraut, or cucumber pickles in natural food stores, or make your own using the recipe on page 112. Avoid brightly colored pickled ginger and wasabi; these generally contain food dye.

Protein

• Strips of a plain omelet
  
• Sunflower, pumpkin, sesame, hemp, or chia seeds, raw or toasted
  
• Gingered Tempeh and Shiitakes
  

Vegetables

• Asparagus spears, steamed, sautéed, or raw
  
• Shredded red cabbage
  
• Shredded daikon radish
  
• Raw or grilled bell pepper strips
  
• Chopped raw kale or mustard greens
  
• Whole leaves of raw mizuna, watercress, or tatsoi
  
• Avocado slices
  
• Cucumber, cut into thin spears
  
• Snow peas, cut into strips
  
• Scallions or chives
  
• Celery, cut into strips
  
• Sautéed shiitake mushrooms
  
• Stir-fried vegetables
  
• Sprouts
  

Pickles

• Ginger pickles
  
• Cucumber pickles
  
• Carrot or green bean pickles
  

Great Combinations

• Sautéed shiitake mushrooms, kale, and toasted sesame seeds
  
• Steamed carrots, kale, and beets
  
• Gingered Tempeh and Shiitakes
  with mesclun or
  Lemony Carrot and Beet Salad
  
• Cucumber, grilled red bell pepper, and avocado
  
• Spinach and mushrooms
  
• Sweet potato fries and sautéed shiitake mushrooms
  

In this recipe, grated beets and carrots combine with the tofu, rice, and nori to create a beautiful mosaic pattern in every slice of this delicious nori roll. Once you’ve tried this version, expand your horizons and use this as a master recipe for making any type of nori rolls you like. The “sushi extravaganza” on pages 106-107 offers lots of suggestions for seasonal vegetables and other fillings you can use. When you mix and match them in combination with the rice recipes on pages 101 through 102, the possibilities are endless—not to mention fun and delicious!

Makes 8 nori rolls

About 4 cups of cooked rice (see recipes on pages 101 through 104)

1 tablespoon light sesame oil

1 tablespoon tamari

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

14 ounces extra-firm tofu, sliced into long rectangles about 2 inch thick

2 cups grated beets

1 cup grated carrots

8 sheets toasted nori

2 to 3 tablespoons umeboshi paste

2 tablespoons wasabi powder, or more as needed

2 tablespoons water

Tamari

Start by cooking the rice as directed in the recipe of your choice. While the rice cools, heat the oil, tamari, and ginger in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu and fry for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown on both sides. (You may need to do a couple of rounds of frying to cook all of the tofu. No need to add more oil if you do.) Slice the tofu slabs into thirds the long way to make long strips.

Mix the beets and carrots together in a bowl.

Lay a sushi mat on a clean work surface with the bamboo strips running horizontally. Place a piece of nori on the mat, shiny side down. Spread about 2 cup of rice on the nori, leaving the top 12 inches bare. Lay 2 or 3 strips of tofu across the rice, horizontally, followed by some of the carrot-beet mixture. Gently press the filling into the rice. Spread some umeboshi paste over the top inch of the nori.

Start by cooking the rice as directed in the recipe of your choice. While the rice cools, heat the oil, tamari, and ginger in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu and fry for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown on both sides. (You may need to do a couple of rounds of frying to cook all of the tofu. No need to add more oil if you do.) Slice the tofu slabs into thirds the long way to make long strips.