How to Cook Indian (56 page)

Cabbage Chana Dal

Cabbage with split Bengal gram

In India, cabbage is very popular with vegetarians, who appreciate its lovely flavor and great versatility. Many regions have their own distinctive versions of this dish, and I have chosen the lightest preparation.

Serves 4.

¼ cup (50 grams)
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

4 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

1 medium head cabbage, shredded

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¾ teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

1. Put the
dal
in a bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain in a colander.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 1 cup (200 ml) water. Bring to a boil and add the
dal
. Cook for 20 minutes or until the
dal
is very soft. Drain in a colander.

3. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the curry leaves and chiles, and sauté for 15 seconds. Add the ginger and sauté for 15 seconds. Add the cabbage and toss well to coat it with the oil and spices. Add the turmeric and salt, and stir. Add the
dal
and stir well. Cook for 7 to 8 minutes.

4. Add the
garam masala
and stir well.

5. Garnish with the coconut and serve hot.

Chorchori

Vegetables with five spices

This dish originated in Bengal and is prepared with whatever uncooked vegetables are left over at the end of a week. Serve it with
dal
and steamed rice.

Serves 4.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1½ teaspoons
panch phoron
(page 589)

1
turai
(ridge gourd), cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) fingers

2 eggplants, cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) fingers

4 ounces (100 grams) red or pie pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) fingers

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) fingers

5 medium
parwars
(striped pear gourds; see Note), cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) fingers

1 drumstick vegetable (page 588), cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) pieces

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

2 or 3 green chiles, stemmed and slit

Pinch of sugar

2 teaspoons table salt

1. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the
panch phoron,
and sauté for 30 seconds.

2. Add all the vegetables and toss well. Add the turmeric, cumin, chiles, sugar, and salt. Toss again.

3. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and stir. Cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and all the moisture has evaporated. Take care that the vegetables do not overcook.

4. Serve hot.

Parwar
is a striped pear gourd. It has heart-shaped leaves and is grown on a trellis. It thrives in a hot to moderately warm and humid climate.

Dhokar Dalna

Bengali steamed
dal
dumplings in a spicy sauce

This dish plays an important part in the Bengali
niramish
(vegetarian) repertoire.
Dhokar
literally means “to cheat,” and as the texture of the lightly spiced lentil cakes resembles that of fish, the name is appropriate. If you see the mixture coming off the sides of the pan while you are steaming the lentil paste, it is a sign that it is cooked. If you oversteam it, the lentil cake will lose moisture and become hard.

Serve these with
luchi
(page 19).

Serves 4.

1 cup (200 grams)
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

2 teaspoons cumin seeds 4 green chiles, stemmed

¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons table salt

2½ tablespoons vegetable oil

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

3 medium red onions, grated

2 teaspoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

2 teaspoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1½ teaspoons ground roasted cumin (page 32)

4 medium tomatoes, grated

1. Put the
dal
in a large bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 3 cups (600 ml) water and soak for 6 to 8 hours. Drain in a colander and transfer to a food processor. Add the cumin, chiles, ¼ teaspoon of the turmeric, and ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and process to a smooth paste. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and process to combine the batter well.

2. Grease a 7-inch-diameter (18-cm-diameter), ½-inch-deep (1-cm-deep) plate. Pour the batter into it and level the surface.

3. Place a steamer over high heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, fit the plate into one of the grooves. Lower the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 12 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.

4. Remove the plate from the steamer and let the cake cool slightly. Cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) diamond-shaped pieces.

5. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the potatoes and sauté until the potatoes are light golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl.

6. To the hot oil in the pan, add the onions and sauté until golden brown. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the chile powder, the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric, and the cumin, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and sauté for 6 to 7 minutes.

7. Add the steamed lentil diamonds, potatoes, and 2 cups (400 ml) water. Lower the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes.

8. Serve hot.

Diwani Handi

Vegetables with fenugreek

Hyderabadi cooks are experts at mixing and matching vegetables of contrasting textures and tastes, and this recipe uses strongly flavored fenugreek leaves with fleshy eggplant and a variety of beans. Very creative, very presentable, and very delicious, the dish has an honored spot on the menus of my Yellow Chilli restaurants. If you can’t find Indian broad beans, you can use green beans. Serve it with any Indian bread.

Serves 4.

1 quart (800 ml) plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 medium red onions, sliced

2 or 3 green chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 tablespoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon red chile powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon table salt

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt, whisked

3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

3 medium carrots, cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

10 haricots verts, sliced on the bias

10 Indian broad beans (hyacinth beans), sliced on the bias (page 588)

6 small eggplants, slit in half with the stem ends intact

½ cup (75 grams) fresh or frozen green peas

½ medium bunch
methi
(fresh fenugreek leaves), chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

½ teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the onions and cook, stirring with a slotted spoon, until the onions are well browned. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 3 tablespoons oil. Add the chiles, ginger paste, and garlic paste, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the chile powder, turmeric, and salt, and stir. Add the yogurt and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Add the potatoes, carrots, haricots verts, broad beans, eggplants, peas, and browned onions, and stir well. Lower the heat to low, add ¾ cup (150 ml) water, cover, and cook for 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

4. Add the
methi,
cilantro, and
garam masala,
and stir well. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Serve hot.

Dum Ki Arbi

Colocassia
roots in a yogurt-based sauce

Colocassia
roots might be sticky to handle, but frying them in oil helps them hold their shape and reduces the stickiness, which makes it easier for the
colocassia
to be coated with rich, spicy
masalas
. This preparation has all the touches of the regal Hyderabadi cuisine.

Serves 4.

1 quart (800 ml) plus ¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil