How to Cook Indian (61 page)

2. Add ¼ teaspoon salt to the gourd scrapings and set side for 30 minutes. Squeeze well.

3. Finely chop 2 of the onions and slice the remaining 2.

4. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over low heat, add the fennel, and dry-roast for 30 seconds. Let cool, transfer to a spice grinder, and grind to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl and add the coriander, cumin, turmeric,
amchur,
chile powder, and
garam masala,
and stir well.

5. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 3 tablespoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the chopped onions and sauté for 6 to 8 minutes or until golden. Remove from the heat and add the spice mixture, the remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and the sugar. Divide into 8 portions.

6. Stuff 1 portion into each of the slit gourds and set aside.

7. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the sliced onions, chile, and bitter gourd peelings, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes.

8. Neatly arrange the stuffed gourds over this mixture. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook, turning a few times, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the gourds are tender and evenly browned on all sides.

9. Serve hot.

Mirchi Ka Salan

Sautéed chiles with peanuts and curry leaves

In India, chiles are the essence of the cuisine in all of the regions. Some like it hot and some like it mild, but in Hyderabad, where the spicy Andhra cuisine rules the roost, this hot chile preparation is a must with the area’s famous Hyderabadi
biryani
(page 481); a
raita
or chutney might be served alongside the
biryani.
My version is mildly spiced.

Serves 4.

18 to 20 plump green chiles (2 inches/5 cm long)

1 quart (800 ml) plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¼ cup (35 grams) sesame seeds

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ cup (75 grams) roasted peanuts

2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

6 to 8 cloves garlic, peeled

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

8 to 10 fresh curry leaves

1 medium red onion, grated

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ tablespoon tamarind pulp

¾ teaspoon table salt

1. Wash the green chiles under running water and drain well in a colander. Pat dry with a kitchen towel. Slit them in half lengthwise, keeping the stem ends intact, and remove the seeds.

2. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the chiles and cook for 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

3. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds, coriander, and cumin, and dryroast for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a mini food processor, add the peanuts, red chiles, ginger, garlic, and ½ cup (100 ml) water, and process to a smooth paste.

4. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, add the curry leaves and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until light golden brown.

5. Add the turmeric and stir well. Add the ground peanut paste and cook for 3 minutes, stirring continuously.

6. Stir in 1 cup (200 ml) water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook for 10 minutes.

7. In a bowl, dissolve the tamarind pulp in ½ cup (100 ml) water, then add it to the pan. Add the fried green chiles and salt, and cook over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes.

8. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot.

Moolyachi Bhajee

Fresh and crunchy radish greens

The greens of the radish are used effectively in most regional cuisines of India, especially in the west. Maharashtrians favor a lot of leafy greens in their cuisine—some of which are alien to most North Indians. Since settling down in Mumbai, I have learned a lot of creative uses for greens, and this dish is an example.

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) white daikon radish with leaves

¼ cup (25 grams)
besan
(chickpea/gram flour)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¼ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon asafetida

1½ teaspoons
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

4 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon grated cane jaggery

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Peel and chop the radish. Put in a large bowl. Finely chop the radish leaves and set aside.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over low heat, add the
besan,
and dry-roast, stirring continuously, for 3 to 4 minutes or until fragrant. Set aside.

3. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the asafetida and
dal,
and sauté for 30 seconds.

4. Add the chiles, turmeric, radish, radish leaves, salt, and jaggery. Stir. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 7 minutes or until the radish is tender and the excess moisture has evaporated.

5. Sprinkle in the
besan
and stir. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and stir well. Cook for 5 minutes or until the water has evaporated.

6. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Mushroom Shagoti

A vegetarian version of Chicken Xacuti

This dish comes from my Goan repertoire and goes best with the Goan bread called
pav,
but it also goes very well with steamed rice or
sannas
(page 161). The spongy mushrooms absorb the marinade quickly. The spices are preroasted to shorten the cooking time so that the mushrooms don’t overcook.

Serves 4.

8 whole cloves

10 whole black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon
ajwain

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1½ tablespoons coriander seeds

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick, broken

2 star anise

4 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 blade mace

1 tablespoon white poppy seeds

1 cup (120 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 large red onions, finely chopped

35 to 40 white mushrooms, quartered

1½ teaspoons table salt

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the cloves, peppercorns,
ajwain,
fennel, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, star anise, chiles, nutmeg, mace, and poppy seeds. Cook until fragrant. Add the coconut and dry-roast for 2 to 3 minutes or until the coconut is lightly browned. Let cool completely. Transfer to a mini food processor with the garlic and 1 cup (200 ml) water and process to a smooth paste. Transfer to a small bowl.

2. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and sauté until well browned. Add the mushrooms and salt, and stir. Add the ground paste and stir well. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and the tamarind pulp, and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Serve hot.

Nadru Yakhni

Lotus root

Lotus root is an exotic vegetable in most parts of India and not readily available outside the state of Kashmir, which has huge bodies of fresh water that contain lotus plants in massive quantities. Kashmiri food, especially the Kashmiri Pandit cuisine, also uses yogurt as a base for many curries. Yogurt not only adds sourness but also gives the curries body.

Serves 4.

1¼ pounds (500 grams) lotus root

2 teaspoons table salt

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

2 medium red onions, sliced

2 cups (500 grams) plain yogurt

1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

1 teaspoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

½ teaspoon caraway seeds

4 to 6 green cardamom pods

2 black cardamom pods

4 to 6 whole cloves

2 (1-inch/2½-cm) cinnamon sticks

Generous pinch of
kasoori methi
(dried fenugreek leaves), crushed

1. Peel the lotus root, wash it thoroughly under running water, and cut it on the diagonal into ¾-inch (2-cm) rounds.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 6 cups (1.2 liters) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the lotus root and ½ teaspoon of the salt, and lower the heat to medium. Cover and cook for 50 minutes or until tender.

3. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and cook, stirring with a slotted spoon, until brown and crisp. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside to cool completely.

4. Transfer the onions to a food processor, add 3 tablespoons water, and grind to a smooth paste.

5. Put the yogurt in a small bowl and add ½ cup (100 ml) water. Whisk thoroughly.

6. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the yogurt mixture. Cook, stirring continuously, for 2 to 3 minutes or until the mixture changes color. Remove from the heat.

7. Put the fennel and ginger in a bowl, and stir in 1 cup (200 ml) water. Add the onion paste and whisk until well blended.

8. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the ghee. When the ghee melts and small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the caraway, green and black cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon, and sauté until fragrant.