I Can Make You Hot! (25 page)

As a makeup artist, the most important part of my job is to start by giving my clients the look of clear, silky, radiant skin. Without a perfect complexion, the rest of the makeup will not pop. Most people have flaws (gasp!) but with a keen eye and proper techniques, anyone can improve the appearance of their skin.

I always apply foundation before the rest of the makeup. It is the foundation of what is to follow, no pun intended. Once I perfect the skin it allows me to see the woman in a new way.

Start by applying a moisturizer that’s appropriate for your skin type. Then apply a creamy concealer in the undereye area with a stiff brush. The concealer will do the heavy lifting and you won’t have to apply as much foundation, resulting in a more natural look. I like to use a peachy color to correct the blue/dark undereye circles. Once foundation is applied over the concealer, it will seamlessly match the rest of the face. Apply the concealer
only
to the dark areas and discoloration. Usually this is in the fold under the tear duct and maybe to the outer edge of the eye for redness. Applying it in a “half-moon” covering the entire undereye area isn’t necessary (and very ’80s) and will add opacity to your makeup. Then apply the same concealer, or one that matches your skin tone, to any blemishes, redness, or discoloration.

The goal for natural healthy skin is to make it look effortless and not show any of the “work” that went into getting it that way. For that reason, I always match the foundation to the skin tone of the body, in particular the upper chest, or as the French say, le décolleté. Choosing a perfect foundation shade is no easy feat, but it is absolutely necessary. You may have to mix a few shades to achieve it, but the payoff is well worth the effort. The Luminous Silk foundations from Giorgio Armani have a superb color range if you are looking for a place to start. I suggest you test them in natural daylight for the most accurate light reading. Once you think you have found your shade, dot a small amount onto your décolleté. If it blends in with the rest of your skin, you have a match.

I like to use a wet Beautyblender sponge and tap the least amount of foundation possible onto the skin. Do not rub it or it will erase the concealer you just applied.

Follow with a cream blush for the most natural ‘glow-from-within’ look. I like rosy shades for light to medium skin tones, cola for tan, and raisin for dark. Using your ring finger, tap a small amount of blush to the apple of your cheek, and then lightly blend it back in the direction of your ear.

The last step is to set the makeup and control shine. Using an invisible powder and a small, fluffy powder brush, apply a sheer veil of powder to the forehead, down the sides of the nose and mouth, and a touch under the eyes and on the cheeks to set the makeup. If you are going for a “dewy” look, now is the time to strategically place your glow. Using your finger, apply a creamy highlighter to the top of the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, and a tiny dot on the forehead and chin.

Sometimes I want to add definition to the face, and pop out the facial features. This is what I call “framing the face.” This also works if someone has a tan and wants their features to glow. Think of it as a modern way of contouring.

Using a powder bronzer and a domed fluffy brush, dust the bronzer on the temples and in the hollows of the cheeks, and sweep it down under the jawbone and the tip of the chin.

Finally, we come to the eyes. Smoky eyes are sultry, powerful, mysterious, and sexy. Not only were they popular in the 1920s, they are also a constant on runways and celebrities today. Many women want to try a smoky eye but are intimidated by thinking that it is too complicated. In fact, however, this style of eye makeup can be quite quick and easy to execute using an eye pencil, two eye shadows, and mascara. The principle is that it encircles the eye with a wash of color, usually with the darkest concentration of color closest to the lash line.

I will explain the technique using blacks and browns, but you can use any color(s) you like: Start with a black pencil eyeliner and trace it along the upper lash line, filling in between and on top of the lashes. This does not need to be a perfectly straight line; just apply the liner in a shape that resembles the contour of your eye. Next, take the rubber end of the pencil (or a “smudge brush” or your finger) and smudge the black line. This creates a softer defused shape and begins the “smoking.”

Then, with a fluffy brush, apply a very small amount of matte black eyeshadow, then go over the smudged line you just created. Blend the shadow on top of and slightly past the smudgy liner. The trick is to build the color using small amounts of product and making them stretch. Be strategic.

Now, with your fluffy brush, apply a matte brown eyeshadow from the edge of the black powder eye shadow over the remainder of your eyelid (the part of your eye that winks). Using a flat square brush (or Q-tip), sweep the brown eyeshadow under your eye on the lower lid.

Finally, apply jet black mascara to the top and bottom lashes.

That’s it. You have sexy, smoky eyes!

Remember What’s on Top of Your Head!

There’s nothing hotter than a HOT head of hair (unless it’s a hunky bald guy). Hair, teeth, skin, and nails are what define a woman’s external health.

My mother always had gorgeous, long, straight hair, but when we were kids, she cut our hair really short—probably so that she wouldn’t have to deal with the tangles. When I was modeling, the agency always wanted me to keep it short. It wasn’t until I had my first daughter and stopped modeling that I grew it long, and now my long hair is my trademark. With long hair, you never have a bad hair day; you just have a ponytail day.

Bradley Irion, who’s been styling my hair for several years, took me from bad-Jennifer-Aniston to beachy, natural, and pretty. Everyone
always
asks me about my hair. The fact is, I get to wear it, but Bradley makes it what it is. By coloring my roots their natural color (I have tons of grays), he gave me a natural look. And then the waves come. He uses a 1½-inch curling iron to curl some pieces, leaving others straight. Then he uses hairspray sparingly, which allows me to have gorgeous hair for days; it can even handle my workouts. Whatever makes your hair HOT: color, extensions, blowouts,
do it
. Drink Kelly-Green Juice and eat oysters, whole grains, eggs, chicken, beans, carrots, low-fat dairy products, and nuts—they’re all great for your hair.

You only live once, but you have at least eighty years to pamper yourself and flaunt what you’ve got.

Here’s a hot hair tip from Bradley:

“When you are eating well, it shows up in your skin, hair, and nails. When you look in the mirror and like what you see, it gives you confidence. Confidence makes you HOT!” (It’s okay to feel HOT; you’ve earned it!)

Here’s another red hot tip from Stefani Greenfield (and me, too): If you want to be hot, do not dress for other women; dress for men. That means skinny trousers and high heels. It means effortless, well-fitting beauty. Men don’t care about trends; they care about pretty.

“When I was working in a salon, before my client got up from the chair, I would lightly blow the hair dryer in her face. Everyone from Wall Street financiers to supermodels would instantly smile and give me a hot, smoldering look. Everyone feels HOT with a little breeze, so feel the breeze, even if the only thing that flutters is your eyelashes.”

Or try one of these HOT healthy options:

Have a vitamin C day. Eat one fruit or vegetable that has vitamin C, such as an orange, some sweet red pepper, strawberries, or broccoli at every meal.

Rinse your hair with chamomile tea.

Put lavender oil in a bucket of water and mop the floors.

Have a vitamin D day: walk outside and get 30 minutes of sun, then drink a low-fat smoothie on your way home.

Give the ends of your hair a cocktail of vodka, salt, and lemon juice. Then rinse, condition, put it up, and enjoy shiny sexy bed hair.