In the Hands of a Chef (33 page)

Tarte Flambée with Caramelized Onions, Smoked Bacon, and Creamy Cheese (page 132)

Penne with Shrimp, Artichokes, and Feta (page 156)

Nidimi—“Little Nests” Stuffed with Prosciutto, Fontina, and Spinach (page 162)

Chilled Lobster with Potato-Blood Orange Salad and Lime (page 180)

Monkfish and Clam Bourride with Aïoli and Green Olive Tapenade (page 218)

Roast Rack of Lamb with Romaine Salad and Anchovy Dressing (page 284)

Fried Rabbit in Hazelnut Crumbs with Peaches (page 289)

Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Herbed Cheese in Fritter Batter (page 308)

Fresh and Salt Cod Wrapped in Pancetta with Wilted Greens (page 314)

Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316)

Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream (page 334) and Ginger Shortbread (page 353)

Hot Chocolate Creams from Provence (page 340)

Lemon-Almond Butter Cake (page 350)

I
f you’ve ever wondered
whether octopus is as mouthwateringly good as its fans claim, here’s your chance to find out. This is a straightforward recipe that takes advantage of the delicious affinity between octopus’s sweet flavor and equally sweet or smoky pepper. Octopus and Spanish paprika (sweet) or Aleppo pepper (smoky) were made for each other. Don’t concern yourself with octopus’s reputation for rubberiness. Braising automatically makes it tender. The texture recalls that of other mildly resistant seafood like lobster tails or monkfish, although it really is its own creature.

If you want to grill or sauté octopus, you need to boil it first (see Octopus Notes). It’s definitely worth the effort. Nothing—absolutely nothing—beats it when it comes time to present the dish to the table.

MAKES 4 ENTRÉE SERVINGS

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 medium onions, 2 chopped into ½-inch dice, 1 thinly sliced

3 celery stalks, chopped into ¼-inch dice

9 garlic cloves, chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups dry red wine

½ cup ouzo (substitute Pernod if ouzo is unavailable)

1 cup canned plum tomatoes, with their juice

3 bay leaves