In the Hands of a Chef (59 page)

with shad roe, pancetta, and spinach, 150–51

Taleggio:

acquacotta—porcini broth with soft polenta, a poached egg and, 306–7

and fig pizza with sage and honey, 126–27

tangerines, bay scallops with celery root and, 204–5

tapenade, green olive, 25

monkfish and clam bourride with aïoli and, 218–19

tarragon, fingerling potato and fig salad, 70

tarts, dessert:

Heather’2019;s cranberry chocolate pecan, 347

mascarpone fig, 348

peppered peach, with ginger-caramel sauce, 341–43

pumpkin and apple, 345–46

tarts, savory, 121–22, 132–35

Pam’2019;s tomato, basil, and Parmesan, 140

with smoky eggplant, bulgur, and roasted red peppers, phyllo, 134–35

tarte flambée with caramelized onions, smoked bacon and creamy cheese, 132–33

tequila shooters, avocado and chipotle shrimp salad with, 68–69

terrine, goat cheese, dried figs, and hazelnuts, 15–16

tomato(es), 55

basil, and Parmesan tarts, Pam’2019;s, 140

chilled smooth corn soup with avocado, lime and, 36–37

cornmeal pappardelle with scallops, saffron, fresh corn and, 148–49

fried green, striped bass with figs and, 196–97

grilled mackerel with eggplant, capers and, 190–91

and grilled mushroom salad with mustard vinaigrette, 74–75

mussel soup over polenta with saffron, garlic and, 50–51

panisse with black olives and, 176

salsa, fresh, 331

sauce, brandade lasagna with broccoli rabe and, 152–53

slow-braised, 118

slow-roasted, 117

slow-roasted, fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, pistachios, spinach and, 164–65

tomato soup:

chilled grilled, with spicy lobster and corn salad, 38–39

roasted, with farro, 54–55

with seared eggplant sandwiches, fresh, 42–43

tools, pizza, 124

torta, chocolate espresso, 338–39

trout, smoked, lobster, and corn chowder, 48

truffled eggs, roasted potatoes stuffed with wild mushrooms and, 301–2

truffle oil:

five-cheese pizza with caramelized onions and, 128–29

Tuscan-style sirloin with Parmesan, lemon and, 263–64

tuna:

with green caper sauce, seared, 179

with romesco sauce, grilled, 186–87

turkey with fennel-herb stuffing, roasted brined, 239–41

turnips, glazed, with chestnuts and prunes, 116

veal, 266–71

breast with porcini mushrooms, braised stuffed, 269–70

ground, in escarole soup with mushrooms and little, 56–57

with Parmesan crust, roast shoulder of, 324–25

shanks with flageolets and preserved lemon, braised, 266–67

vegetable(s), 77–120

crostata, spring, 136–37

gratin, summer, salmon marinated in mint and basil with, 194–95

roasted, with fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds, 112

salad with favas, green beans, peas, and radicchio, warm spring, 90

winter, gratín with cranberries and chestnuts, 114–15

see also specific vegetables

venison, peppered, with sherry sauce and dried fruit chutney, 294–96

vinaigrette:

mustard, tomato and grilled mushroom salad with, 74–75

see also
sherry vinaigrette

vinegar:

premium, 63

see also
balsamic

vinegared grapes, 288

thin-sliced calves’ liver with greens, Dijon mustard sauce and, 286–88

walnut(s):

breadsticks, 19

clam and mussel stew with Italian ham, leeks and, 217

and prune-plum butter cake, 349

ravioli bundles of roasted beets with poppy seeds, garlic cream and, 160–61

salmon with dried cranberries and, 200–201

watercress and Stilton soup, 49

wine, red:

braised short ribs of beef with apricots, black olives and, 257–58

mushroom sauce, semolina gnocchi with roasted marrowbones and, 166–68

pan juices, seared sirloin tips with anchovy butter and, 254–56

yogurt-cucumber sauce, grilled bluefish with pomegranate glaze and, 184–85

zabaglione, 5-spice, roasted pears with, 336–37

zucchini flowers,
see
squash blossoms

T
he collaborative nature of cooking
first drew me into my mother’s kitchen and later to restaurants. My success as a chef is the result of many partnerships, and what keeps me going back to the kitchen is not just the food—it’s working side by side with other people. There is always more to learn. I would like to extend my thanks to my parents, Tom and Po Adams, who taught me to celebrate food; to my sisters, Ginny and Eliza, my first kitchen partners; to my first teachers, Gordon Hamersley, Nancy Verde Barr, Lydia Shire, and Susan Regis; to my sous-chefs, past and present, for giving me a rock to stand on—Petal Joseph, Ruth-Anne Adams, Frank Vasello, and Laura Brennan; to the kitchen and service staffs at Rialto, whose commitment to what we do makes us successful every day; to my partners, Michela Larson and Karen Haskell, who insisted I write this book and then, as always, supported the process to the end; to Dick Friedman, one of my biggest fans; to Gary Sullivan, who in recent years has taught me the true meaning of service; to our customers, whose vigilance and appreciation remind me why we are here; and to all the producers and purveyors whose exceptional raw ingredients make my job possible.

No cookbook is ever written alone. Doe Coover, our agent, deserves special thanks for her abiding optimism and for helping us to conceptualize the book, both times around. Justin Schwartz earned our respect for believing in our ship; Harriet Bell, for her insight and
confidence that our vessel would actually someday sail into port; Pam Krueger, our ever-diligent recipe tester, kept us honest. Thanks to Ellen Silverman for her spectacular photographs; and to Karen Ferries for her patient incorporation of changes to the text. Valerie and Ihsan Gurdal and their staff at Formaggio Kitchens, who endured endless questions about their spices, seasonings, cheeses, and other specialty ingredients; Nan Niland, Ralph Helmick, Anne Fabiny, and Larry Cohen—no one should ever underestimate the importance of friends or volunteer palates; to my patient husband, Ken, enormous love and gratitude—he gave me a voice and chased me for two and a half years to get things just right; without him, it never would have happened. (To my wife, Jody: it takes two to tango—Ken.) Finally, thank you, Oliver and Roxanne, uninhibited critics, enthusiastic diners, sources of the magic and love that keep us afloat.

J
ODY
A
DAMS
is the co-owner and chef of Rialto in Boston, Massachusetts. In the Hands of a Chef is her first cookbook. Jody’s Boston culinary career began in 1983 at Seasons restaurant under chef Lydia Shire. Three years later, at Hamersley’s Bistro, she became Gordon Hamersley’s sous chef. She moved to Michela’s in 1990 and served as executive chef there until 1994. In September 1994, Adams opened Rialto with restaurateurs and partners Michela Larson and Karen Haskell. Four months after Rialto’s opening, the Boston Globe awarded the restaurant four stars, the newspaper’s highest rating. Jody opened her latest venture, Red Clay, in May of last year. Jody lives in Somerville, Massachusetts, with her husband, Ken Rivard, and their two children. Ken Rivard is a freelance writer of short stories and articles. He has contributed to books on food, wine, psychology, and men’s health. He also holds down the fort in Somerville.

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Farmers’ Markets

Most states publish listings of local farmers’ markets, available through state agricultural offices. The United States Department of Agriculture also publishes the
National Directory of Farmers’ Markets,
updated ever two years in hard copy and continually on the web at www.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets. The directory is available by calling (800) 384-8707 or by writing to:

USDA

AMS-T&M-W&AM, Room 2642-S

1400 Independence Avenue, SW

Washington, DC 20250-0267

Spices, Cheeses, and Unusual Ingredients

Formaggio Kitchen

244 Huron Avenue

Cambridge, MA 02138

(888)212-3224

www.formaggiokitchen.com

Valerie and Ihsan Gurdal’s Formaggio Kitchen is an excellent source for cheeses, chickpea flour, chestnut flour, dried flageolets, pomegranate molasses, dried Turkish figs, Hungarian paprika, and other difficult-to-find spices. The mail-order catalogue includes only a partial listing of products, so call if you don’t see what you want. Next-day delivery available.

IN THE HANDS OF A CHEF
. Copyright © 2002 by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard.

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

EPub Edition © DECEMBER 2010 ISBN: 978-0-062-03959-0

FIRST EDITION

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Adams, Jody.
In the hands of a chef : cooking with Jody Adams/Jody Adams and Ken Rivard.
      p. cm.
ISBN 0-688-16837-X
1. Cookery. 2. Cookery, International. I. Rivard, Ken, 1951- II. Title.
TX714.A422 2002
641.5—dc21
2001032946

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