In the Hands of a Chef (58 page)

panzanella—fried bread salad with capers, toasted garlic and, 71

phyllo tarts with smoky eggplant, bulgur and, 134–35

with saffron, mint, and chiles, 98

pesto, 44

phyllo tarts with smoky eggplant, bulgur, and roasted red peppers, 134–35

pineapple, grilled, with rum, lime-ginger syrup, and ice cream, 334

pistachios:

fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, spinach, slow-roasted tomatoes and, 164–65

fresh green pea soup with shaved radicchio and, 41

pizza, 121, 123–31

with caramelized onions and truffle oil, five-cheese, 128–29

crispy prosciutto and parsley, 131

fig and Taleggio, with sage and honey, 126–27

smoked salmon, with mascarpone and capers, 130

pizza dough, basic, 123–24

plum-prune and walnut butter cake, 349

polenta:

with chestnuts, figs, and Gorgonzola, buckwheat, 172–73

mussel soup over, with saffron, tomatoes, and garlic, 50–51

panisse with tomatoes and black olives, 176

soft, acquacotta—porcini broth with Taleggio, a poached egg and, 306–7

pomegranate (seeds):

glaze, grilled bluefish with cucumber-yogurt sauce and, 184–85

grilled onion and parsley salad with black olives and, 73

roasted vegetables with fresh herbs and, 112

poppy seeds:

grilled smoked chicken with pancetta and, 233–34

ravioli bundles of roasted beets with walnuts, garlic cream and, 160–61

porcini mushrooms:

broth with soft polenta, Taleggio, and a poached egg (acquacotta), 306–7

dried, braised stuffed veal breast with, 269–70

dried, preparation of, 271

and duck liver pâté, Venetian, 17–18

pork, 272–76

chops, grilled maple-braised with roasted pear chutney, 272–74

confit, crispy, 313

confit, crispy, celery root ravioli with sage butter or, 310–13

roasted spice-rubbed, with greens, rice, black beans, and lime, 328–31

tenderloin, grilled and roasted, with toasted pumpkin seed sauce, 275–76

see also
bacon; ham; pancetta; prosciutto

portobella mushroom and arugula salad, 66

potato(es):

-basil purée, Reine’2019;s, grilled striped bass with, 188–89

-blood orange salad, chilled lobster with lime and, 180–81 cakes with crème fraîche, crisp shredded, 110

fingerling, fig, and tarragon salad, 70

gnocchi gratin, 169–70

leek, artichoke, and fennel strudel, 92–93

stuffed with wild mushrooms and truffled eggs, roasted, 301–2

see also
mashed potatoes

poultry, 222–51

see also
chicken; duck; quail; Rock Cornish game hens; turkey

prosciutto:

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with Fontina, spinach and, 162–63

and parsley pizza, crispy, 131

prune(s):

glazed turnips with chestnuts and, 116

-plum and walnut butter cake, 349

pudding, super-creamy rice, with passion fruit sauce, 356–57

pumpkin and apple tart, 345–46

pumpkin seed, toasted, sauce, grilled and roasted pork tenderloin with, 275–76

purée:

celery root, 104

Reine’2019;s potato-basil, grilled striped bass with, 188–89

quail:

farro, and chestnut stew, 245–46

stuffed with mascarpone and green peppercorns, seared, 242–43

quince compote, honeyed, 251

steamed and pan-roasted duck with, 247–51

rabbit, 289–93

with chocolate, sweet-and-sour braised, 292–93

in hazelnut crumbs with peaches, fried, 289–91

soup with garlic and peppers, 58–59

radicchio:

and roasted pear salad with Gorgonzola cream and toasted hazelnuts, 72

shaved, fresh green pea soup with pistachios and, 41

warm spring vegetable salad with favas, green beans, peas and, 90

raspberry sauce, caramelized, crema spessa with, 354–55

ravioli, 144, 158–61

bundles of roasted beets with walnuts, poppy seeds, and garlic cream, 160–61

celery root, with sage butter or crispy pork confit, 310–13

stuffed with wild mushrooms, spinach, and poached eggs, big, 158–59

rémoulade (sauce), 14–15

goujonettes of sole with, 12

rice:

pudding, super-creamy, with passion fruit sauce, 356–58

roasted spice-rubbed pork with greens, black beans, lime and, 328–31

ricotta:

fig and Taleggio pizza with sage, honey and, 126–27

herbed, roasted chicken breasts stuffed with, 226–27

ricotta salata, minted Romaine salad with grapes, toasted almonds and, 65

Riesling sauce, 291

risotto, goose or duck, 174–75

Rock Cornish game hens:

cooked under a brick with hot-and-spicy ginger sauce, peppered, 231–32

with North African flavors, roasted, 228–30

Romaine:

escarole, and capocollo salad with anchovy dressing and fried onions, 67

salad, roast rack of lamb with anchovy dressing and, 284–85

salad with grapes, ricotta salata, and toasted almonds, minted, 65

romesco sauce, grilled tuna with, 186–87

rosemary:

-Parmesan crackers, 20

stuffed lamb shanks, grilled, 280–81

-stuffed lamb shanks with roasted fennel and red onions, braised, 279–81

rouille, 13–14

rum, grilled pineapple with lime-ginger syrup, ice cream and, 334

saffron:

cornmeal pappardelle with scallops, tomatoes, fresh corn and, 148–49

mayonnaise, spicy mussel salad with black olives, roasted peppers and, 182–83

mussel soup over polenta with tomatoes, garlic and, 50–51

roasted red peppers with mint and chiles, 98

seared loin lamb chops with roasted garlic pan sauce and, 277

sage:

butter, celery root ravioli with crispy pork confit or, 310–13

fig and Taleggio pizza with honey and, 126–27

salads, 60–76

arugula and portobella mushroom, 66

avocado and chipotle shrimp, with tequila shooters, 68–69

beet and spinach, with goat cheese and grilled fresh figs, 76

Bibb lettuce with creamy mustard dressing and herb-stuffed eggs, 64

escarole, Romaine, and capocollo, with anchovy dressing and fried onions, 67

with favas, green beans, peas, and radicchio, warm spring, 90

fingerling potato, fig, and tarragon, 70

fried bread, with roasted peppers, capers, and toasted garlic (panzanella), 71

grilled onion and parsley, with black olives and pomegranate seeds, 73

local lettuces with sherry vinaigrette and edible flowers, 62

minted Romaine, with grapes, ricotta salata, and toasted almonds, 65

potato-blood orange, chilled lobster with lime and, 180–81

roasted pear and radicchio, with Gorgonzola cream and toasted hazelnuts, 72

Romaine, roast rack of lamb with anchovy dressing and, 284–85

spicy lobster and corn, grilled tomato soup with, 38–39

spicy mussel, with saffron mayonnaise, black olives, and roasted peppers, 182–83

tomato and grilled mushroom, with mustard vinaigrette, 74–75

warm cucumber, pan-roasted salmon with, 198–99

salmon, 198–201

marinated in mint and basil with summer vegetable garden, 194–95

pan-roasted, with warm cucumber salad, 198–99

with walnuts and dried cranberries, 200–201

salmon, smoked:

pizza with mascarpone and capers, 130

rolls with arugula, mascarpone, chives, and capers, 9

salsa, fresh tomato, 331

salsa cruda, linguine with, 145

sauces:

caramelized raspberry, crema spessa with, 354–55

cucumber-yogurt, grilled bluefish with pomegranate glaze and, 184–85

Dijon mustard, vinegared grapes, and thin-sliced calves’ liver, 286–88

ginger-caramel, peppered peach tarts with, 341–43

green caper, seared tuna with, 179

green olive and balsamic vinegar, 318

green olive and balsamic vinegar, roasted marinated Long Island duck with, 316–18

hot-and-spicy ginger, peppered chicken cooked under a brick with, 231–32

mayonnaise—and variations, 13–14

Parmesan cream, nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

passion fruit, super-creamy rice pudding with, 356–57

red wine mushroom, semolina gnocchi with roasted marrowbones and, 166–68

Riesling, 291

roasted garlic pan, seared loin lamb chops with saffron and, 277

romesco, grilled tuna with, 186–87

sherry, peppered venison with dried fruit chutney and, 294–96

toasted pumpkin seed, grilled and roasted pork loin with, 275–76

tomato, brandade lasagna with broccoli rabe and, 152–53

see also
pesto; rémoulade

sausage, andouille:

braised chicken thighs with ancho peppers and, 237–38

lobster, and littleneck clam stew, 220–21

scallions, creamed corn with squash blossoms and, 86

scallops:

bay, with celery root and tangerines, 204–5

cornmeal pappardelle with saffron, tomatoes, fresh corn and, 148–49

sea, with cider cream, 202

sesame seeds, black, glazed carrots in honey and orange juice with mint and, 105

shad roe:

seared, with smoky lentils, 192–93

tagliatelle with pancetta, spinach and, 150–51

shallots, sweet-and-sour, 100

sherry sauce, peppered venison with dried fruit chutney and, 294–96

sherry vinaigrette:

local lettuces with edible flowers and, 62

warm asparagus spears with aged Gouda and, 80

shortbread, ginger, 353

shrimp:

chipotle, and avocado salad with tequila shooters, 68–69

pappardelle with smoked mussels, yellow peppers, black olives and, 146–47

penne with artichokes, feta and, 156–57

skate, 207

wings with brown butter, capers, and anchovies, 206–7

skordalia—garlic mashed potatoes, 106

socca crêpes with spinach and herb filling, 28–29

sole:

with rémoulade sauce, goujonettes of, 12

Venetian-style sweet-and-sour, 203

sorrel, hot-and-spicy seared squid stuffed with, 208

soupe de poisson, 303–5

soups,
see
stocks and soups

spaghetti with Maine crabmeat, toasted bread crumbs, and garlic, 154

spinach:

and beet salad with goat cheese and grilled fresh figs, 76

big ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms, poached eggs and, 158–59

fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, pistachios, slow-roasted tomatoes and, 164–65

and herb filling, socca crêpes with, 28–29

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina and, 162–63

salmon with walnuts, dried cranberries and, 200–201

sea scallops with cider cream and, 202

tagliatelle with shad roe, pancetta and, 150–51

squash:

fritters, curried, 82

summer, and onion soup with toasted almonds, 45

winter, pear, and blue cheese crostata, caramelized, 138–39

squash blossoms, 309

creamed corn with scallions and, 86

stuffed with herbed cheese in fritter batter, 308–9

squid, 209

stuffed with sorrel, hot-and-spicy seared, 208

starters and small bites, 7–29

braised artichokes with anchovies, capers, and lemon zest, 83–84

braised leeks and shiitakes wrapped in pancetta, 79

brandade croutons, 24

brandade de morue, 22–23

curried squash fritters, 82

fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, pistachios, spinach, and slow-roasted tomatoes, 164–65

fregola—Sardinian pasta with lemon, favas, Parmesan, and lots of parsley, 155

goat cheese terrine with dried figs and hazelnuts, 15–16

goujonettes of sole with rémoulade sauce, 12

green olive tapenade, 25

grilled clams on the half-shell with garlic crostini, 10

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

parchment bread, 21

ravioli bundles of roasted beets with walnuts, poppy seeds, and garlic cream, 160–61

roasted potatoes stuffed with wild mushrooms and truffled eggs, 301–2

rosemary-Parmesan crackers, 20

salt cod, artichoke, and celery root fritters, 299–300

smoked salmon rolls with arugula, mascarpone, chives, and capers, 9

socca crêpes with spinach and herb filling, 28–29

spiced bagna cauda, 26–27

Venetian duck liver and porcini pâté, 17–18

walnut breadsticks, 19

warm asparagus spears with aged Gouda and sherry vinaigrette, 80

stew:

clam and mussel, with Italian ham, walnuts, and leeks, 217

lobster, litdeneck clam, and andouille sausage, 220–21

Oliver’2019;s chicken, 52–53

quail, farro, and chestnut, 245–46

Stilton and watercress soup, 49

stocks and soups, 30–59

acquacotta—porcini broth with soft polenta, Taleggio, and a poached egg, 306–7

chicken, 31, 32

chicken, orzo in, with many greens and Asiago in, 40

chilled smooth corn, tomatoes, avocado, and lime, 36–37

clam and white bean, with fennel, anchovy, and lemon, 46–47

escarole, with mushrooms and little meatballs, 56–57

fish, 33

fish (soupe de poisson), 303–5

fresh green pea, with shaved radicchio and pistachios, 41

lobster, 34–35

mussel, over polenta with saffron, tomatoes, and garlic, 50–51

Oliver’2019;s chicken stew, 52–53

rabbit, with garlic and peppers, 58–59

Stilton and watercress, 49

summer squash and onion, with toasted almonds, 45

see also
tomato soup

strudel, leek, artichoke, and fennel, 92–93

sweetbreads, 327

with capers, smoked ham, and pecans, glazed, 326–27

sweet potato, 109

mash, 108

tagliatelle, 144