In the Hands of a Chef (56 page)

and green olive sauce, 318

and green olive sauce, roasted marinated Long Island duck with, 316–18

pepper syrup, fresh fruit with, 335

seared lamb steaks with red pepper marinade and, 278

basil:

halibut braised in ginger-lemongrass broth with cilantro, mint and, 212–13

and mint marinated salmon with summer vegetable gratin, 194–95

-potato purée, Reine’2019;s, grilled striped bass with, 188–89

tomato, and Parmesan tarts, Pam’2019;s, 140

bass, striped:

with fried green tomatoes and figs, 196–97

grilled, with Reine’2019;s potato-basil purée, 188–89

bean(s):

black, roasted spice-rubbed pork with greens, rice, lime and, 328–31

white, and clam soup with fennel, anchovy and lemon, 46–47

white, braised oxtails with, 261–62

see also
chickpeas; favas; green beans

beef, 254–64

braised oxtails with white beans, 261–62

braised short ribs with red wine, apricots and black olives, 257–58

pot roast with green peppers and pancetta, 259–60

seared sirloin tips with red wine pan juices and anchovy butter, 254–56

Tuscan-style sirloin with Parmesan, lemon, and truffle oil, 263–64

beet(s), 103

orange, 102

roasted, ravioli bundles of walnuts, poppy seeds, garlic cream and, 160–61

and spinach salad with goat cheese and grilled fresh figs, 76

blue cheese:

squash, and pear crostata, caramelized, 138–39

see also
Gorgonzola; Stilton

bluefish with pomegranate glaze and cucumber-yogurt sauce, grilled, 184–85

bourride, monkfish and clam, with aïoli and green olive tapenade, 218–19

brandade (de morue), 22–23

croutons, 24

lasagna with broccoli rabe, 152–53

bread:

fried, salad with roasted peppers, capers and toasted garlic (panzanella), 71

rye, roast Christmas goose stuffed with brandied figs, chestnuts and, 320–22

bread crumbs:

hazelnut, coated fried rabbit with peaches, 289–91

mustard, roast leg of lamb with, 282–83

toasted, spaghetti with Maine crabmeat, garlic and, 154

breadsticks, walnut, 19

broccoli, roasted spicy curried cauliflower and, 113

broccoli rabe, brandade lasagna with, 152–53

broth,
see
stocks and soups

buckwheat polenta with chestnuts, figs and Gorgonzola, 172–73

bulgur, phyllo tarts with smoky eggplant, roasted red peppers and, 134–35

butter:

anchovy, 256

anchovy, seared sirloin tips with red wine pan juices and, 254–56

brown, skate wings with capers, anchovies and, 206–7

brown bay, sautéed boneless chicken breasts with, 224–25

cake, lemon-almond, 350–51

cake, prune-plum and walnut, 349

clarified, 111

sage, celery root ravioli with crispy pork confit or, 310–13

simple favas with, 87

buttermilk mashed potatoes, versatile, 107

cakes:

lemon-almond butter, 350–51

prune-plum and walnut butter, 349

caper(s):

braised artichokes with anchovies, lemon zest and, 83–84

glazed sweetbreads with smoked ham, pecans and, 326–27

grilled mackerel with eggplant, tomatoes and, 190–91

panzanella—fried bread salad with roasted peppers, toasted garlic and, 71

sauce, green, seared tuna with, 179

skate wings with brown butter, anchovies and, 206–7

smoked salmon pizza with mascarpone and, 130

smoked salmon rolls with arugula, mascarpone, chives and, 9

capocollo, escarole, and Romaine salad with anchovy dressing and fried onions, 67

caramel(ized):

-ginger sauce, peppered peach tarts with, 341–43

onions, five-cheese pizza with truffle oil and, 128–29

onions, tarte flambée with smoked bacon, creamy cheese and, 132–33

pears, gratin with, 115

raspberry sauce, crema spessa with, 354–55

squash, pear, and blue cheese crostata, 138–39

carrots in honey and orange juice with black sesame seeds and mint, glazed, 105

cauliflower, roasted spicy curried broccoli and, 113

celery root:

bay scallops with tangerines and, 204–5

purée, 104

ravioli with sage butter or crispy pork confit, 310–13

salt cod, and artichoke fritters, 299–300

cheese:

creamy, tarte flambée with caramelized onions, smoked bacon and, 132–33

five-, pizza, with caramelized onions and truffle oil, 128–29

herbed, stuffed squash blossoms in fritter batter, 308–9

see also specific cheeses

chestnut(s), 244

buckwheat polenta with figs, Gorgonzola and, 172–73

glazed turnips with prunes and, 116

quail, and farro stew, 245–46

roast Christmas goose stuffed with brandied figs, rye bread and, 320–22

winter vegetable gratin with cranberries and, 114–15

chicken, 231–38

baby (poussin), cooked under a brick with hot-and-spicy ginger sauce, peppered, 231–32

with poppy seeds and pancetta, grilled smoked, 233–34

stew, Oliver’2019;s, 52–53

chicken breasts:

with brown bay butter, sautéed boneless, 224–25

stuffed with herbed ricotta, roasted, 226–27

chicken stock, 31

homemade, vs. canned broth, 32

chicken thighs:

with ancho peppers and andouille sausage, braised, 237–38

in mustard with garlic and mascarpone, braised, 235–36

chickpeas, 230

rabbit soup with garlic, peppers and, 58–59

chiles, roasted red saffron peppers with mint and, 98

chipotle shrimp and avocado salad with tequila shooters, 68–69

chives, smoked salmon rolls with arugula, mascarpone, capers and, 9

chocolate:

cranberry pecan tart, Heather’2019;s, 347

creams from Provence, hot, 340

espresso torta, 338–39

sweet-and-sour braised rabbit with, 292–93

chorizo sausages, rabbit soup with garlic, peppers and, 58–59

chowder, lobster, corn, and smoked fish, 48

chutney:

dried fruit, 296

dried fruit, peppered venison with sherry sauce and, 294–96

roasted pear, 274

roasted pear, grilled maple-brined pork chops with, 272–74

cider cream, sea scallops with, 202

cilantro, halibut braised in ginger-lemongrass broth with basil, mint and, 212–13

clam(s), 11, 219

littleneck, lobster, and andouille sausage stew, 220–21

and monkfish bourride with aïoli and green olive tapenade, 218–19

and mussel stew with Italian ham, walnuts, and leeks, 217

on the half-shell with garlic crostini, grilled, 10

and white bean soup with fennel, anchovy and lemon, 46–47

cod, fresh:

roast in terra-cotta, with bacon and horseradish, 210–11

and salt cod wrapped in pancetta with wilted greens, 314–15

cod, salt:

artichoke, and celery root fritters, 299–300

and fresh cod wrapped in pancetta with wilted greens, 314–15

see also
brandade

compote, honeyed quince, 251

steamed and pan-roasted duck with, 247–51

confit, crispy pork, 313

celery root ravioli with sage butter or, 310–13

corn:

fresh, cornmeal pappardelle with scallops, saffron, tomatoes and, 148–49

lobster, and smoked fish chowder, 48

and lobster salad, spicy, chilled grilled tomato soup with, 38–39

soup with tomatoes, avocado and lime, chilled smooth, 36–37

with squash blossoms and scallions, creamed, 86

cornmeal:

pappardelle with scallops, saffron, tomatoes and fresh corn, 148–49

see also
polenta

crabmeat, Maine, spaghetti with toasted bread crumbs, garlic and, 154

crackers:

parchment bread, 21

rosemary-Parmesan, 20

cranberry(ies):

chocolate pecan tart, Heather’2019;s, 347

dried, salmon with walnuts and, 200–201

winter vegetable gratin with chestnuts and, 114–15

cream:

garlic, ravioli bundles of roasted beets with walnuts, poppy seeds and, 160–61

horseradish, roast cod in terra-cotta, with bacon and, 210–11

lemon, fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with pistachios, spinach, slow-roasted tomatoes and, 164–65

sauce, nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

winter vegetable gratin with cranberries, chestnuts and, 114–15

creamed corn with squash blossoms and scallions, 86

crema spessa with caramelized raspberry sauce, 354–55

crème fraîche:

cider, sea scallops with, 202

crisp shredded potato cakes with, 110

socca, with spinach and herb filling, 28–29

crostatas, 122, 136–39

caramelized squash, pear, and blue cheese, 138–39

spring vegetable, 136–37

crostini, garlic, grilled clams on the half-shell with, 10

croutons, brandade, 24

cucumber:

salad, warm, pan-roasted salmon with, 198–99

-yogurt sauce, grilled bluefish with pomegranate glaze and, 184–85

curried:

roasted spicy broccoli and cauliflower, 113

squash fritters, 82

desserts, 332–57

see also specific desserts

dressings:

anchovy, escarole, Romaine, and capocollo salad with fried onions and, 67

anchovy, roast rack of lamb with Romaine salad and, 284–85

creamy mustard, Bibb lettuce with herb-stuffed eggs and, 64

see also
sherry vinaigrette; vinaigrette

duck, 250

glaze, spicy, 251

or goose risotto, 174–75

with green olive and balsamic vinegar sauce, roasted marinated Long Island, 316–18

liver and porcini pâté, Venetian, 17–18

for more than two, 319

steamed and pan-roasted, with honeyed quince compote, 247–51

stock, 31

egg(s):

herb-stuffed, Bibb lettuce with creamy mustard dressing and, 64

poached, acquacotta—porcini broth with soft polenta, Taleggio and, 306–7

poached, big ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms, spinach and, 158–59

truffled, roasted potatoes stuffed with wild mushrooms and, 301–2

eggplant:

grilled mackerel with tomatoes, capers and, 190–91

and red peppers with honey and spices, braised, 96–97

sandwiches, seared, fresh tomato soup with, 42–43

smoky, phyllo tarts with bulgur, roasted red peppers and, 134–35

escarole, 95

with Parmesan crust, braised, 94–95

Romaine, and capocollo salad with anchovy dressing and fried onions, 67

soup with mushrooms and little meatballs, 56–57

espresso chocolate torta, 338–39

farro, 244

quail, and chestnut stew, 245–46

and roasted tomato soup, 54–55

favas, 87–90

with butter, simple, 87

and fiddleheads with garlic and pancetta, 89

fregola—Sardinian pasta with lemon, Parmesan, lots of parsley and, 155

warm spring vegetable salad with green beans, peas, radicchio and, 90

fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, pistachios, spinach, and slow-roasted tomatoes, 164–65

fennel:

clam and white bean soup with anchovy, lemon and, 46–47

-herb stuffing, roasted brined turkey with, 239–41

leek, and artichoke strudel, 92–93

roasted, braised rosemary-stuffed lamb shanks with red onions and, 279–81

feta cheese:

leek, artichoke, and fennel strudel, 92–93

penne with shrimp, artichokes and, 156–57

fiddleheads and favas with garlic and pancetta, 89

fig(s):

brandied, roast Christmas goose stuffed with chestnuts, rye bread and, 320–22

buckwheat polenta with chestnuts, Gorgonzola and, 172–73

dried, goat cheese terrine with hazelnuts and, 15–16

fingerling potato, and tarragon salad, 70

grilled fresh, beet and spinach salad with goat cheese and, 76

mascarpone tart, 348

striped bass with fried green tomatoes and, 196–97

and Taleggio pizza with sage and honey, 126–27

fish, 184–201, 210–13

soupe de poisson, 303–5

see also specific kinds offish

fish stock, 33

flageolets, braised veal shanks with preserved lemon and, 266–68

flowers, edible:

local lettuces with sherry vinaigrette and, 62

see also
squash blossoms

focaccia, sweet grape, 352

Fontina:

crispy prosciutto and parsley pizza with, 131

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, spinach and, 162–63

fregola—Sardinian pasta with lemon, favas, Parmesan and lots of parsley, 155

fricassee, wild mushroom, 101

fritter(s):

batter, squash blossoms stuffed with herbed cheese in, 308–9

curried squash, 82

salt cod, artichoke, and celery root, 299–300

fruit:

fresh, with balsamic pepper syrup, 335

see also specific kinds of fruit

garlic(ky):

braised chicken in mustard with mascarpone and, 235–36

cream, ravioli bundles of roasted beets with walnuts, poppy seeds and, 160–61

crostini, grilled clams on the half-shell with, 10

favas and fiddleheads with pancetta and, 89

greens, fiery, 91

mashed potatoes (skordalia), 106

mussel soup over polenta with saffron, tomatoes and, 50–51

rabbit soup with peppers and, 58–59

spaghetti with Maine crabmeat, toasted bread crumbs and, 154

toasted, panzanella—fried bread salad with roasted peppers, capers and, 71

garlic, roasted, 119

mashed potatoes, 107

pan sauce, seared loin lamb chops with saffron and, 277

ginger:

-caramel sauce, peppered peach tarts with, 341–43

-lemongrass broth, halibut braised in, with cilantro, basil, and mint, 212–13