In the Hands of a Chef (57 page)

-lime syrup, grilled pineapple with rum, ice cream and, 334

sauce, hot-and-spicy, peppered chicken cooked under a brick with, 231–32

shortbread, 353

glaze(d):

carrots in honey and orange juice with black sesame seeds and mint, 105

pomegranate, grilled bluefish with cucumberyogurt sauce and, 184–85

spicy duck, 251

sweetbreads with capers, smoked ham and pecans, 326–27

turnips with chestnuts and prunes, 116

gnocchi, 171

gratin, potato, 169–70

semolina, with red wine mushroom sauce and roasted marrowbones, 166–68

goat cheese:

beet and spinach salad with grilled fresh figs and, 76

terrine with dried figs and hazelnuts, 15–16

goose:

or duck risotto, 174–75

fat, 323

stock, 31

stuffed with brandied figs, chestnuts and rye bread, roast Christmas, 320–22

Gorgonzola:

buckwheat polenta with chestnuts, figs and, 172–73

cream, roasted pear and radicchio salad with toasted hazelnuts and, 72

Gouda, aged, warm asparagus spears with sherry vinaigrette and, 80

grape(s):

focaccia, sweet, 352

minted Romaine salad with ricotta salata, toasted almonds and, 65

vinegared, 288

vinegared, thin-sliced calves’ liver with greens, Dijon mustard sauce and, 286–88

gratin:

with caramelized pears, 115

potato gnocchi, 169–70

summer vegetable, salmon marinated in mint and basil with, 194–95

winter vegetable, with cranberries and chestnuts, 114–15

green beans, warm spring vegetable salad with favas, peas, radicchio and, 90

greens:

fiery garlicky, 91

many, orzo in chicken broth with Asiago and, 40

roasted spice-rubbed pork with rice, black beans, lime and, 328–31

thin-sliced calves’ liver with Dijon mustard sauce, vinegared grapes and, 286–88

wilted, fresh and salt cod wrapped in pancetta with, 314–15

see also specific greens

grill notes, 265

Gruyère cheese, winter vegetable gratin with cranberries, chestnuts and, 114–15

halibut, braised in ginger-lemongrass broth with cilantro, basil, and mint, 212–13

ham:

Italian, clam and mussel stew with walnuts, leeks and, 217

smoked, glazed sweetbreads with capers, pecans and, 326–27

hazelnut(s):

crumb-coated, fried rabbit with peaches, 289–91

goat cheese terrine with dried figs and, 15–16

toasted, roasted pear and radicchio salad with Gorgonzola cream and, 72

herb(s), herbal, herbed:

cheese, stuffed squash blossoms in fritter batter, 308–9

-fennel stuffing, roasted brined turkey with, 239–41

fresh, roasted vegetables with pomegranate seeds and, 112

mayonnaise, 14

ricotta, roasted chicken breasts stuffed with, 226–27

and spinach filling, socca crêpes with, 28–29

-stuffed eggs, Bibb lettuce with creamy mustard dressing and, 64

honey:

braised eggplant and red peppers with spices and, 96–97

fig and Taleggio pizza with sage and, 126–27

glazed carrots in orange juice with black sesame seeds, mint and, 105

honeyed quince compote, 251

steamed and pan-roasted duck with, 247–51

horseradish, roast cod in terra-cotta, with bacon and, 210–11

ice cream, grilled pineapple with rum, lime-ginger syrup and, 334

lamb, 277–85

chops with saffron and roasted garlic pan sauce, seared loin, 277

with mustard crumbs, roast leg of, 282–83

roast rack of, with Romaine salad and anchovy dressing, 284–85

shanks, braised rosemary-stuffed, with roasted fennel and red onions, 279–81

shanks, grilled rosemary, 280–81

steaks with balsamic vinegar and red pepper marinade, seared, 278

lasagna, 144

with broccoli rabe, brandade, 152–53

leek(s):

artichoke, and fennel strudel, 92–93

clam and mussel stew with Italian ham, walnuts and, 217

and shiitakes wrapped in pancetta, braised, 79

lemon(s):

-almond butter cake, 350–51

clam and white bean soup with fennel, anchovy and, 46–47

cream, fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with pistachios, spinach, slow-roasted tomatoes and, 164–65

fregola—Sardinian pasta with favas, Parmesan, lots of parsley and, 155

mashed potatoes, 107

preserved, 268

preserved, braised veal shanks with flageolets and, 266–68

Tuscan-style sirloin with Parmesan, truffle oil and, 263–64

lemongrass-ginger broth braised halibut with cilantro, basil, and mint, 212–13

lemon zest, braised artichokes with anchovies, capers and, 83–84

lentils, smoky, seared shad roe with, 192–93

lettuce(s):

Bibb, with creamy mustard dressing and herbstuffed eggs, 64

local, with sherry vinaigrette and edible flowers, 62

see also
Romaine

lime:

chilled lobster with potato-blood orange salad and, 180–81

chilled smooth corn soup with tomatoes, avocado and, 36–37

-ginger syrup, grilled pineapple with rum, ice cream and, 334

roasted spice-rubbed pork with greens, rice, black beans and, 328–31

linguine:

braised octopus with paprika and, 215–16

with salsa cruda, 145

liver:

duck, and porcini pâté, Venetian, 17–18

thin-sliced calves', with greens, Dijon mustard sauce, and vinegared grapes, 286–88

lobster:

chilled, with potato-blood orange salad and lime, 180–81

corn, and smoked fish chowder, 48

and corn salad, spicy, chilled grilled tomato soup with, 38–39

hard-shell vs. soft-shell, 181

littleneck clam, and andouille sausage stew, 220–21

stock, 34–35

mackerel, grilled, with eggplant, tomatoes, and capers, 190–91

maple-brined grilled pork chops with roasted pear chutney, 272–74

marrowbones, roasted, 168

semolina gnocchi with red wine mushroom sauce and, 166–68

mascarpone:

braised chicken in mustard with garlic and, 235–36

fig tart, 348

seared quail stuffed with green peppercorns and, 242–43

smoked salmon pizza with capers and, 130

smoked salmon rolls with arugula, chives, capers and, 9

mashed potatoes:

garlic (skordalia), 106

lemon, 107

roasted garlic, 107

versatile buttermilk, 107

mayonnaise:

herbal, 14

saffron, spicy mussel salad with black olives, roasted peppers and, 182–83

—and variations, 13–14

meatballs, little, escarole with mushrooms and, 56–57

mint(ed):

and basil marinated salmon with summer vegetable gratin, 194–95

glazed carrots in honey and orange juice with black sesame seeds and, 105

halibut braised in ginger-lemongrass broth with cilantro, basil and, 212–13

roasted red saffron peppers with chiles and, 98

Romaine salad with grapes, ricotta salata, and toasted almonds, 65

monkfish and clam bourride with aïoli and green olive tapenade, 218–19

mozzarella:

in five-cheese pizza with caramelized onions and truffle oil, 128–29

in fresh tomato soup with seared eggplant sandwiches, 42–43

mushroom(s):

braised shiitakes and leeks wrapped in pancetta, 79

escarole soup with little meatballs and, 56–57

grilled, and tomato salad with mustard vinaigrette, 74–75

red wine sauce, semolina gnocchi with roasted marrowbones and, 166–68

see also
porcini mushrooms; portobella mushroom

mushroom(s), wild:

big ravioli stuffed with spinach, poached eggs and, 158–59

fricassee, 101

roasted potatoes stuffed with truffled eggs and, 301–2

mussel(s):

and clam stew with Italian ham, walnuts, and leeks, 217

salad with saffron mayonnaise, black olives, and roasted peppers, spicy, 182–83

smoked, pappardelle with shrimp, yellow peppers, black olives and, 146–47

soup over polenta with saffron, tomatoes, and garlic, 50–51

mustard:

braised chicken in, with garlic and mascarpone, 235–36

crumbs, roast leg of lamb with, 282–83

dressing, creamy, Bibb lettuce with herb-stuffed eggs and, 64

sauce, Dijon, thin-sliced calves’ liver, vinegared grapes and, 286–88

vinaigrette, tomato and grilled mushroom salad with, 74–75

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

octopus, 214

braised, with paprika and linguine, 215–16

oil:

premium, 63

see also
truffle oil

olive, green:

and balsamic vinegar sauce, 318

and balsamic vinegar sauce, roasted marinated Long Island duck with, 316–18

tapenade, 25

tapenade, monkfish and clam bourride with aïoli and, 218–19

olives, black:

braised short ribs of beef with red wine, apricots and, 257–58

grilled onion and parsley salad with pomegranate seeds and, 73

panisse with tomatoes and, 176

pappardelle with smoked mussels, shrimp, yellow peppers and, 146–47

spicy mussel salad with saffron mayonnaise, roasted peppers and, 182–83

onion(s):

caramelized, five-cheese pizza with truffle oil and, 128–29

caramelized, tarte flambée with smoked bacon, creamy cheese and, 132–33

fried, escarole, Romaine, and capocollo salad with anchovy dressing and, 67

grilled, and parsley salad with black olives and pomegranate seeds, 73

red, braised rosemary-stuffed lamb shanks with roasted fennel and, 279–81

and summer-squash soup with toasted almonds, 45

orange (juice):

beets, 102

blood,-potato salad, chilled lobster with lime and, 180–81

glazed carrots in honey with black sesame seeds, mint and, 105

orzo in chicken broth with many greens and Asiago, 40

pancakes, crisp shredded potato, with crème fraîche, 110

pancetta, 315

braised leeks and shiitakes wrapped in, 79

favas and fiddleheads with garlic and, 89

grilled smoked chicken with poppy seeds and, 233–34

pot roast of beef with green peppers and, 259–60

tagliatelle with shad roe, spinach and, 150–51

wrapped fresh and salt cod with wilted greens, 314–15

panisse with tomatoes and black olives, 176

panzanella—fried bread salad with roasted peppers, capers, and toasted garlic, 71

pappardelle, 144

cornmeal, with scallops, saffron, tomatoes, and fresh corn, 148–49

with smoked mussels, shrimp, yellow peppers, and black olives, 146–47

paprika, braised octopus with linguine and, 215–16

Parmesan:

cream sauce, nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

crust, braised escarole with, 94–95

crust, roast shoulder of veal with, 324–25

fregola—Sardinian pasta with lemon, favas, lots of parsley and, 155

-rosemary crackers, 20

tomato, and basil tarts, Pam’2019;s, 140

Tuscan-style sirloin with lemon, truffle oil and, 263–64

parsley:

fregola—Sardinian pasta with lemon, favas, Parmesan and lots of, 155

and grilled onion salad with black olives and pomegranate seeds, 73

and prosciutto pizza, crispy, 131

passion fruit sauce, super-creamy rice pudding with, 356–57

pasta, 141–65

with braised eggplant and red peppers with honey and spices, 96–97

fazzoletti—“handkerchiefs” with lemon cream, pistachios, spinach, and slow-roasted tomatoes, 164–65

fresh, master recipe, 142–44

nidimi—“little nests” stuffed with prosciutto, Fontina, and spinach, 162–63

penne with shrimp, artichokes, and feta, 156–57

Sardinian, with lemon, favas, Parmesan, and lots of parsley (fregola), 155

spaghetti with Maine crabmeat, toasted bread crumbs, and garlic, 154

see also
lasagna; linguine; pappardelle; ravioli; tagliatelle

pastry dough, basic, 343–44

pâté, Venetian duck liver and porcini, 17–18

peach(es):

fried rabbit in hazelnut crumbs with, 289–91

tarts, peppered, with ginger-caramel sauce, 341–43

pear(s):

caramelized, gratin with, 115

chutney, roasted, 274

chutney, roasted, grilled maple-brined pork chops with, 272–74

roasted, and radicchio salad with Gorgonzola cream and toasted hazelnuts, 72

roasted, with 5-spice zabaglione, 336–37

squash, and blue cheese crostata, caramelized, 138–39

pea(s):

fresh green, soup with shaved radicchio and pistachios, 41

warm spring vegetable salad with favas, green beans, radicchio and, 90

pecan(s):

cranberry chocolate tart, Heather’2019;s, 347

glazed sweetbreads with capers, smoked ham and, 326–27

penne with shrimp, artichokes, and feta, 156–57

pepper(ed):

balsamic syrup, fresh fruit with, 335

chicken cooked under a brick with hot-and-spicy ginger sauce, 231–32

peach tarts with ginger-caramel sauce, 341–43

venison with sherry sauce and dried fruit chutney, 294–96

peppercorns, green, seared quail stuffed with mascarpone and, 242–43

peppers, 99

ancho, braised chicken thighs with andouille sausage and, 237–38

green, pot roast of beef with pancetta and, 259–60

roasted, spicy mussel salad with saffron mayonnaise, black olives and, 182–83

yellow, pappardelle with smoked mussels, shrimp, black olives and, 146–47

peppers, red bell:

and eggplant with honey and spices, braised, 96–97

marinade, seared lamb steaks with balsamic vinegar and, 278

rabbit soup with garlic and, 58–59

peppers, roasted red: