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Authors: Robert Macfarlane

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‘What is required
,’ wrote Finlay in a public appeal to save the Brindled Moor, ‘is a new nomenclature of landscape and how we relate to it, so that conservation becomes a natural form of human awareness, and so that it ceases to be under-written and under-appreciated and thus readily vulnerable to desecration.’ ‘What is needed,’ he concluded superbly, ‘is a Counter-Desecration Phrasebook.’ He and his fellow islanders worked to produce some version of that phrasebook for Lewis.

After three and a half years the Scottish Executive ruled on
AMEC’s proposal. Taking into consideration the protective designations that the moor possessed (including a UN Ramsar designation) and the protests against the development (including 10,924 letters of objection) it decided to reject the wind-farm application.

The moor was saved.

VI
In Which a Baroque Fantasia Is Imagined

We need now, urgently, a Counter-Desecration Phrasebook that would comprehend the world – a glossary of enchantment for the whole earth, which would allow nature to talk back and would help us to listen. A work of words that would encourage responsible place-making, that would keep us from slipping off into abstract space, and keep us from all that would follow such a slip. The glossaries contained here in
Landmarks
do not constitute this unwriteable phrasebook – but perhaps they might offer a sight of the edge of the shadow of its impossible existence.

Such a phrasebook, as I imagine it – as thought-experiment, as baroque fantasia – would stand not as a competitor to scientific knowledge and ecological analysis, but as their supplement and ally. We need to know how nature proceeds, of course, but we need also to keep wonder alive in our descriptions of it: to provide celebrations of not-quite-knowing, of mystification, of excess. Barry Lopez again:
‘something emotive abides in the land
, and … it can be recognized and evoked even if it cannot be thoroughly plumbed’. This ‘something’ is ‘inaccessible to the analytic researcher, and invisible to the ironist’.

Like Lopez, I am drawn to this idea of a valuable superfluity in nature: a content to landscape that exceeds the propositional and that fails to show up on the usual radar sweeps – but which may be expressible, or at least gesturable towards, in certain kinds of language. I relish the etymology of our word
thing
– that sturdy term of designation, that robust everyday indicator of the empirical – whereby in Old English
thynge
does not only designate a material object, but can also denote
‘a narrative not fully known
’, or indicate ‘the unknowability of larger chains of events’.

As I imagine it, futilely, this phrasebook would be rich with language that is, as the poet Marianne Moore put it in an exceptional essay of 1944 entitled ‘Feeling and Precision’,
‘galvanized against inertia
’, where that ‘galvanized’ carries its sense of flowing current, of energy received by contact, of circuitry completed. For Moore, precision of language was crucial to this galvanism. ‘Precision,’ she wrote – in a phrase with which I could not be in more agreement – ‘is a thing of the imagination’ and produces ‘writing of maximum force’. ‘Precision’ here should not be taken as cognate with scientific language. No, precision for Moore is a form of testimony different in kind to rational understanding. It involves not probing for answers, but watching and waiting. And precision, for Moore, is best enabled by metaphor: another reminder that metaphor is not merely something that adorns thought but is, substantively, thought itself. Writers must be, Moore concludes finely, ‘as clear as our natural reticence allows us to be’, where ‘reticence’ mutely reminds us of its etymology from the Latin
tacere
, ‘to be silent, to keep silent’. I recall Charles Simic:
‘For knowledge, add; for wisdom, take away.’

This phrasebook would help us to understand that there are places and things which make our thinking possible, and leave our thinking
changed.
In this respect it would inhabit
what linguistics calls the ‘middle voice’: that grammatical diathesis which – by hovering between the active and the passive – can infuse inanimate objects with sentience and so evoke a sense of reciprocal perception between human and non-human. It would possess the unfeasible alertness of Jorge Luis Borges’s character Ireneo Funes, who develops perfect recall after a riding accident.
‘John Locke, in the seventeenth century
, postulated (and rejected) an impossible language in which each individual thing, each stone, each bird and each branch, would have its own name,’ wrote Borges there; ‘Funes once projected an analogous language, but discarded it because it seemed too general to him, too ambiguous. In fact, Funes remembered not only every leaf of every tree of every wood, but also every one of the times he had perceived or imagined it …’

This phrasebook would find ways of outflanking the cost-benefit framework within which we do so much of our thinking about nature. Again and again when we are brought short by natural events – the helix of a raptor’s ascent on a thermal; a flock of knots shoaling over an east-coast estuary; the shadows of cumulus clouds moving across Lewisian moorland on a sunny day – the astonishment we feel concerns a gift freely given, a natural potlatch. During such encounters, we briefly return to a pre-economical state in which things can be
‘tendered
’, as Adam Potkay puts it, ‘that is, treated with tenderness – because of the generosity of their self-giving, as if alterity were itself pure gift’.

Above all, then, this phrasebook would speak the language of tact and of tenderness. The Canadian poet Jan Zwicky writes of the importance of
‘having language to hand’
in our dealings with the natural world. There is a quiet reminder in her phrase of the
relationship between tactfulness and tactility, between touch and ethics. As the
Oxford English Dictionary
defines it:

Tact
: 1
(a).
The sense of touch, the act of touching or handling. 1
(b)
A keen faculty of perception or discrimination likened to the sense of touch. 2
(b)
Musicologically, a stroke in beating time which ‘directs the equalitie of the measure’ (John Downland, writing in 1609, translating Andreas Ornithoparcus).

Tact as due attention
, as tenderness of encounter, as rightful tactility. Tactful language, then, would be language which sings (is lyric), which touches (is born of contact with the lived and felt world), which touches us (affects) and which keeps time – recommending thereby an equality of measure and a keen faculty of perception.

Glossary I
Flatlands
Flowing Water
bugha
green bow-shaped area of moor grass or moss, formed by the winding of a stream
Gaelic
caochan
slender moor-stream obscured by vegetation such that it is virtually hidden (possibly from Old Irish
caeich
, meaning ‘blind’, i.e. the stream is so overgrown that it cannot see out of its own bed)
Gaelic
èit
practice of placing quartz stones in moorland streams so that they would sparkle in moonlight and thereby attract salmon to them in the late summer and autumn
Gaelic (Isle of Lewis)
feadan
small stream running from a moorland loch
Gaelic
fèith
watercourse running through peat, often dry in summer, the form of which resembles veins or sinews
Gaelic
lòn
small stream with soft, marshy banks
Gaelic
rife
small river flowing across the coastal plain
Sussex
sike
small stream, often flowing through marshy ground
Yorkshire
Mists, Fogs, Shadows
ammil
‘The icy casings of leaves and grasses and blades and sprigs were glowing and hid in a mist of sun-fire. Moor-folk call this morning glory the ammil’ Henry Williamson,
Tarka the Otter
(1927)
Exmoor
burnt-arse fire
will-o’-the-wisp, ignis fatuus
Fenland
daal’mist
mist which gathers in valleys overnight and is exhaled when the sun rises
Shetland
dag
dew or heavy-lying mist on the marsh
Suffolk
grumma
mirage caused by mist or haze rising from the ground
Shetland
haze-fire
luminous morning mist through which the dawn sun is shining
poetic
muggy
dull, misty weather; cf. Welsh
mwg
, meaning ‘smoke, fume’
Northamptonshire
na luin
fast-moving heat-haze on the moor
Gaelic
rafty
of weather: misty, damply cold
Essex
rionnach maoim
shadows cast on the moorland by clouds moving across the sky on a bright and windy day
Gaelic
roke
fog that rises in the evenings off marshes and water meadows
East Anglia
summer geese
steam that rises from the moor when rain is followed by hot sunshine
North Yorkshire
thick wet
dense mist
Exmoor
Pasture, Transhumance and Grazing
a’ chailleach
stone coping topped with dry turf, forming a seat at the end of the bed in the shieling
Gaelic
àirigh
shieling: i.e. summer pasture, or shelter established near the pasture
Gaelic
astar
,
innis
area of moor where sheep spend their first summer and to which they tend to return
Gaelic
botann
hole in the moor, often wet, where an animal might get stuck
Gaelic
both
‘beehive’ shieling with a corbelled stone roof, usually covered in turf such that it resembles a drumlin from a distance
Gaelic
clach-tachais
upright stone standing outside a shieling, intended for cows to scratch against
Gaelic
cotan
place made of turf where calves are kept on the shieling
Gaelic
doras-iadht
door in the shieling which faces the wind and is therefore closed with turfs (the sheltered door being left open)
Gaelic
geàrraidh
group of shielings
Gaelic
làrach àirigh
mark where a shieling has been, its vestigial remains
Gaelic
leabaidh liatha
mossy bed where the cattle lie at a distance from the shieling
Gaelic
mow
,
mowfen
name formerly given to a fen which in the summertime yielded fodder for cattle
Northamptonshire
rathad nam
path to the shieling (literally ‘the road of the
banachagan
dairymaids’)
Gaelic
sgombair
old grass found around the edges of lochs after storms and used as bedding for cattle
Gaelic
sgrath
thin turf used to roof the shieling
Gaelic
teine leathan
fire made from heather and moor-grass bedding on the morning before returning home from the shieling at the end of summer. This fire was the signal to the cattle to set off home
Gaelic
tulach na h-àirigh
site of the shieling
Gaelic
uinneagan
alcoves set into shieling walls for holding basins of milk
Gaelic
Peat, Turf and Earth
an caoran
lowest layer of a peat bank
Gaelic
baitíneach
fibrous turf
Irish
bàrr-fhàd
topmost layer of peat cut
Gaelic
beat
rough sod of moorland (along with the heather growing on it) which is sliced or pared off, and burnt when the land is about to be ploughed
Devon
blàr mònach
field of peat banks
Gaelic
bruach
natural peat bank
Gaelic
brug
stump of earth standing with the sward intact where the ground has been broken by the continued action of the weather
Shetland
bull-pated
applied to a tuft of grass driven by the wind into a quiff, i.e. standing up like the tuft on a bull’s forehead
Northamptonshire
bungel
clod of turf used as a missile, for pelting with
Shetland
caorán
peat embers, used to light or relight a fire
Irish
carcair
turfed surface of a peat bank
Gaelic
ceap murain
turf that is difficult to cut because of the tough grassy growth through it, and which is therefore often used as a seat in the shieling
Gaelic
coirceog mhóna
small heap or ‘beehive’ (
coirceog
) of turf left for drying
Irish
cruach mhònach
peat stack
Gaelic
delf
sod or cut turf
Scots
densher, devonshire
paring off the top layer of turf in a field and burning it in order to enrich the soil with ash
Dorset, Somerset
flaa
hunk of turf, matted with roots of heather and grass, torn up by hand without a spade and used in thatching
Shetland
flag
turf
Suffolk
fòid
depth of a peat bank measured in the number of peats that can be cut from the top of bank; thus
poll aon fòid
,
poll dà fhòid
,
poll thrì fòid
– a bank one, two, three peats deep
Gaelic
gàrradh
peats placed on top of each other in such a way as to let the air circulate through them, on the bank
Gaelic
hassock
,
hussock
tuft of coarse grass growing on boggy land
Northamptonshire
kast
to cut peats out of the ground and cast them onto the bank to dry
Shetland
maoim
place on the moor where there has been peat movement in the past
Gaelic
mawn
peat
Herefordshire
mòine
peat, once it is cut and dried
Gaelic
mòine dhubh
heavier and darker peats which lie deeper and older into the moor
Gaelic
mump
block of peat dug out by hand
Exmoor
rathad an isein
narrow gap left on top of the peat bank (literally ‘the bird’s road’)
Gaelic
rind
edge of a peat bed
Scots
rùdhan
set of four peat blocks leaned up against one another such that wind and sun hasten their drying
Gaelic
rùsg
turf covering a peat bank
Gaelic
skumpi
clumsy, lumpish peat; outermost peat in each row as the peats are cut out of the bank
Shetland
stèidheadh
peat stack constructed in such a way as to shed rain. Various patterns are used in the side wall of the stack, e.g. sloping wall, flat wall, herringbone
Gaelic
teine biorach
flame or will-o’-the-wisp that runs on top of heather when the moor is burnt during the summer
Gaelic
teine mònach
peat fire
Gaelic
tott
clump or tuft of grass
Kent
tubins
grass sods
Cornwall
turbary
the right to cut turf or peat for fuel on a common or on another person’s land
legal
tusk
tuft of grass or reeds
Northamptonshire
veggs
peat
Devon
watter-sick
of peats: saturated with water; of land: needing to be drained
Cumbria
yarpha
peat full of fibres and roots
Orkney
Raised Ground, Flat Ground
bivan puv
clover field
Anglo-Romani
breck
breach, blemish or failing; thus ‘Brecklands’, the name given to the broken sandy heathlands of south Norfolk
Middle English
bruerie
heath, common
Suffolk
bukkalo tan
heath, common
Anglo-Romani
cnoc
low-lying hill, often with surrounding flat or low ground
Gaelic
druim
wide ridge of high ground
Gaelic
eig
raised area of land or lifted turf mark used to designate a boundary
Gaelic
eiscir
ridge of ground separating two plains or lower land-levels
Irish
ffridd
moorland; mountain pasture
Welsh
gallitrop
fairy ring
Devon, Gloucestershire, Somerset
gwaun
moor; meadow; downland, usually walkable
Welsh
hoath
heath
Kent
knowe
field head; hillock; fairy mound
Scots
ling
sandy heathland
Norfolk, Suffolk

plain; region of level and even country
Irish
machair
rich grasslands and flower meadows that overlie shell-sand on the west coasts of Scotland, especially the Atlantic coast of Outer Hebridean islands
Gaelic
machaireach
inhabitant of low-lying landscapes
Gaelic
maghannan
open moorland, sometimes with low hills
Gaelic
mall
of land: bad, quaggy
Welsh
mign
bog, mire
Welsh
reeast
moorland
Manx
rhos
moor, heath; extent of level land
Welsh
roddam
raised silt bank left behind by a drained river, as the surrounding peat dries and lowers following the drainage. Land with an undulating surface is known as
roddamy
land or rolling land
Fenland
saltings
salt marshes, usually on the seaward side of sea walls
Essex, Kent
sìthean
derived from
sìth
(fairy hill or mound), by association with features within which fairies were thought to dwell: applied to small knolls, in most cases crowned by green grass
Gaelic
skradge
small bank raised on an old one to prevent flooding
Fenland
smeeth
level space
East Anglia
tafolog
abounding in dock leaves (now found only as place-name element)
Welsh
tòl
moor-mound
Gaelic
tom
round hillock, small raised area
Gaelic
wong
portion of unenclosed land under the open-field system
agricultural
wonty-tump
molehill
Herefordshire
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