Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (3 page)

BOOK: Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2
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Words and pictures must be arranged carefully on a page if they are to communicate all that they intend. Again we authors may speak with gratitude of the loving attention that has gone into the layout and typography of this book. Now, when you have a long sequence of illustrated events to follow, like cutting and forming croissants or stuffing sausages, the whole operation of one particular step will be open before you, and you will not have to stop to turn the pages with a sticky finger nearly so often. This is a tighter setup than that
for Volume I; although the type is the same size, the illustrations are more closely integrated with the text so that words and pictures can be absorbed more easily, and once you have mastered a technique, a glance at the illustrations will serve as sufficient reminder. The art work and production in this book contribute greatly to the understanding of cookery, we think, and we are pleased that our publisher has been willing to take the time and space, as well as the expense, to present recipes with such intelligent elegance.

We have little else to add to this leisurely meander. Words of advice, such as “Do read the recipe before you start in to cook,” “Be sure your oven thermostat is accurate,” and other sage admonitions are in the foreword to Volume I. We shall therefore only repeat the hope that you will keep your knives sharp and that, above all, you will have a good time.

Best wishes and
bon appétit!

S. B. and J. C.

Paris and Cambridge
June 1971

FOREWORD TO THE SECOND EDITION

Volume II has needed only a few changes in this new edition. We’ve brought in the food processor for dough making, added a little more butter to the croissants, a little more sugar on top of the puff pastry cookies, and changed the weight of a leg of lamb to conform with the modern mode. Otherwise it is as before, the classic cuisine of France, continued.

S. B. and J. C.

Bramafam and Santa Barbara
February 1983

Acknowledgments

O
UR FRIENDS
, students, families, and husbands have continued to act graciously and courageously as guinea pigs throughout the accumulation of years since Volume I began and Volume II came to its fruition; we owe them very special thanks. Again the U.S. Department of Agriculture has been a wonderful source of assistance, as has the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries, especially its Boston Branch. We are also grateful to the National Livestock and Meat Board for technical advice on many occasions, and we are deeply indebted to R. A. Seelig of the United Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Association, whose bulletins and letters have taught us so many things we never knew before. Gladys Christopherson has been our faithful and cheerful manuscript typer, putting neatly onto paper the scrawls and spots of working copy; we thank her every finger. Avis DeVoto, still acting as foster mother, wet nurse, guide, and mentor, has also taken on the copy editing for our side, as well as the position of indexer-in-chief; our admiration and gratitude can only be expressed by her weight in fresh truffles. Paul Child, tireless photographer at a moment’s notice, pinch-hitting illustrator, clever turner of phrases when the well is dry—we can only continue to love him and to feed him well. We have also our peerless editor, Judith Jones, to thank most sincerely and affectionately; her conception of the book has produced what you now hold in your hands.

Contents

Cover
Other Books by This Author
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
Foreword
Acknowledgments
Illustrations

   
Chapter One   •  
SOUPS FROM THE GARDEN—BISQUES AND CHOWDERS FROM THE SEA

   
Chapter Two   •  
BAKING: BREADS, BRIOCHES, CROISSANTS, AND PASTRIES

Chapter Three   •  
MEATS: FROM COUNTRY KITCHEN TO HAUTE CUISINE

  
Chapter Four   •  
CHICKENS, POACHED AND SAUCED—AND A COQ EN PÂTE

   
Chapter Five   •  
CHARCUTERIE: SAUSAGES, SALTED PORK AND GOOSE, PÂTÉS AND TERRINES

    
Chapter Six   •  
A CHOICE OF VEGETABLES

Chapter Seven   •  
DESSERTS: EXTENDING THE REPERTOIRE

APPENDICES
Stuffings
Kitchen Equipment
Cumulative Index for Volumes One and Two
About the Authors

Illustrations

Illustrations by Sidonie Coryn
Technical Drawings by Paul Child
CHAPTER
I

Lobsters

dismembering

Crabs

dismembering
CHAPTER
II

French bread

making dough and first rise
second rise
forming bâtards
forming round loaves

Special equipment

Pain de mie

equipment
making dough
forming loaves
baking

Brioches

making dough and first rise
molds
forming and baking
forming ring-shaped
Kougloff

Croissants

making dough and first rise
cutting and shaping crescents

Upside-down pastry shells

forming

Rolling pins

Making simple puff pastry (demi-feuilletée)

Making classic puff pastry

Vol-au-vent and bouchées

cutting and forming small
cutting and forming large
scraping out center
making cover
decorating

Cutting fleurons

Petites bouchées, cutting

Reconstructing leftover dough

Cornets

cutting and forming
filling with cheese

Rouleaux

Cheese Napoleons

Cheese feuilletée

filling and cutting
CHAPTER
III

Beef case

making case
filling case

How to lard meat

Beef tenderloin cuts

trimming
tying

Filet en croûte

enclosing in dough
decorating
serving

Boning a leg of lamb

Stuffed leg of lamb in pastry

enclosing in dough
decorating

Saddle of lamb

preparing for roasting
carving

Breast of veal

Suckling pig roasting positions

carving
CHAPTER
IV

Half-boning chicken

Half-boned chicken in pastry

CHAPTER
V
BOOK: Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2
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