Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (6 page)

Fresh white European asparagus

European asparagus is either all white or tinged with mauve or green near the tip, depending on the variety. Since the peel is often slightly bitter as well as being much tougher than that of all-green asparagus, peeling is essential. Peel each spear
¹
⁄
₁₆
of an inch deep up to the tender part near the tip. After boiling the stalks, taste the cooking liquid; if it is bitter, discard it and use fresh boiling water for cooking the tops. Although the soup would normally be a pale cream color, you may turn it green by puréeing into it a cup of blanched chard or spinach leaves.

SOUPE BELLE POTAGÈRE

[Pea-pod Soup]

You can make an excellent green pea soup using both pods and peas. Next time you are shelling them, and have crackling fresh pods, keep out the greenest and best of the lot, wrap them in a plastic bag, and refrigerate for a soup the next day. A cup of shelled peas would be nice, too, but frozen ones will do for the garnish.

For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6

1)
The onion flavoring

1 cup sliced leeks and onions or onions only

3 Tb butter

A heavy-bottomed, 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover

Cook the leeks or onions slowly in the butter for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Set aside.

2)
The pea-pod soup base

1 lb. fresh green peas with very crisp pods

Pulling off and discarding stems and tips from the pea pods, shell the peas and set aside—you should have about 1 cup. Wash pods and chop roughly into 1-inch pieces, making about 4 cups. Stir the chopped pods into the leeks and onions, cover and cook slowly for 10 minutes.

3 Tb flour

4 cups hot water

1½ tsp salt

1 large potato, peeled and sliced (about 1 cup)

Blend the flour into the pea pods and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat, gradually blend in 1 cup of the hot water, then stir in the rest along with the salt and sliced potatoes. Simmer, partially covered, for about 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender.

3)
The peas

1 cup fresh peas (or a 10-ounce package of frozen peas)

A heavy-bottomed 6- to 8-cup saucepan with cover

1½ cups water for fresh peas; ½ cup for frozen peas

1 large sliced scallion or shallot

6 to 8 large outside leaves of Boston lettuce, chopped

1 Tb butter

¼ tsp salt

For fresh peas:
Boil them in the covered saucepan with the water, scallion, lettuce, and other ingredients for 10 to 15 minutes or until peas are just tender, adding 2 to 3 tablespoons more water if liquid evaporates entirely before peas are done; uncover and set aside.

For frozen peas:
Cook the same way but with only ½ cup water, and boil only long enough for the peas to be tender.

4)
Finishing the soup

A food mill set over a bowl (or an electric blender and sieve)

A cup or so of milk if needed

Salt, white pepper, and sugar to taste

¼ cup or more of heavy cream or sour cream

Purée the peas, then the soup base. If you are using a blender, sieve the soup base after puréeing to remove
pea-pod fibers. Return to saucepan, bring to simmer, and thin out with milk if soup seems too thick. Taste carefully for seasoning, and add pinches of sugar to taste, which will help bring out the flavor. Stir in the cream.

(*) Set aside uncovered until cool, then cover and refrigerate.

1 to 4 Tb soft butter

Reheat to simmer just before serving. Check seasoning again, remove from heat, and stir in the butter a half tablespoon at a time. Serve immediately.

Cold Pea-pod Soup

Omit the final butter enrichment, and oversalt slightly. Stir several times as the soup cools, then cover and chill. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving.

  
POTAGE À LA FLORENTINE