Near a Thousand Tables (46 page)

14
sticks together:
H. Dunn-Meynell, “Three Lunches: Some Culinary Reminiscences of the Aptly Named Cook Islands,” in H. Walker, ed.,
Food on the Move
(Totnes, 1997), pp. 111-13.

14
with stone:
C. A. Wilson,
Food and Drink in Britain from the Stone Age to Recent Times
(London, 1973), p. 65.

14
Ireland alone:
M. J. O'Kelly,
Early Ireland
(Cambridge, 1989).

15
“usually feasted on it”:
J. H. Cook,
Longhorn Cowboy
(Norman, 1984), p. 82.

16
on a dagger:
C. Perry, “The Horseback Kitchen of Central Asia,” in Walker, ed.,
Food on the Move,
pp. 243-48.

17
“what they wanted”:
S. Hudgins, “Raw Liver and More: Feasting with the Buriats of Southern Siberia,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 136-56, at p. 147.

17
in wrestling:
Trans., Rieu, pp. 274-76.

17
“cultural object”:
C. Lévi-Strauss,
The Origin of Table Manners
(London, 1968), p. 471.

18
from c 6,000
B.C.:
A. Dalby,
Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece
(London, 1996), p. 44.

18
“or technical skill”:
H. Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table
(New York, 1988), p. 68.

19
over half:
C. Fischler, “La ‘macdonaldisation' des moeurs,” in J.-L. Flandrin and M. Montanari, eds.,
Histoire de l'alimentation
(Paris, 1996), pp. 858-79, at p. 867.

21
“like gluttony”:
“Gluttony,”
Sunday Times,
December 31, 1961, quoted in C. Ray, ed.,
The Gourmet's Companion
(London, 1963), p. 433.

22
“visited the houses”:
E. Ybarra, “Two Letters of Dr. Chanca,”
Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge,
xlviii (1907).

22
“should be tastier”:
B. de Sahagún,
Historia de las Cosas de la Nueva España
(Mexico City, 1989), p. 506.

22
“sepulchre of human flesh”:
A. R. Pagden,
The Fall of Natural Man
(Cambridge, 1982), p. 87.

22
“the last fingernail”:
Ibid., p. 83.

23
“my own eyes”:
H. Staden,
The True History of His Captivity, 1557,
M. Letts, ed. (London, 1929), p. 80.

23
human butcher meat:
Pagden,
Fall of Natural Man,
p. 85.

23
“at a most doleful rate”:
P. Way, “The Cutting Edge of Culture: British Soldiers Encounter Native Americans in the French and Indian War,” in M. Daunton and R. Halpern, eds.,
Empire and Others: British Encounters with Indigenous Peoples, 1600-1850
(Philadelphia, 1999), pp. 123-48, at p. 134.

23
“over other food”:
J. Hunt,
Memoir of the Rev. W. Cross, Wesleyan Missionary to the Friendly and Feejee Islands
(London, 1846), p. 22.

23
open to question:
W. Arens,
The Man-Eating Myth
(New York, 1979); G. Obeyeskere, “Cannibal Feasts in Nineteenth-Century Fiji: Seamen's Yarns and the Ethnographic Imagination,” in F. Barker, P. Hulme and M. Iversen, eds.,
Cannibalism and the Colonial World
(Cambridge, 1998), pp. 63-86.

24
Arawak hosts:
Quoted in L. Montrose, “The Work of Gender in the Discourse of Discovery,” in S. Greenblatt, ed.,
New World Encounters
(Berkeley, 1993), p. 196.

24
anthropophagous appetites:
Pagden,
Fall of Natural Man,
p. 83.

24
human flesh:
G. Williams, ed.,
The Voyage of George Vancouver, 1791-5,
4 vols. (London, 1984), ii, p. 552.

24
“around at night”:
A. Rumsey, “The White Man As Cannibal in the New Guinea Highlands,” in L. R. Goldman, ed.,
The Anthropology of Cannibalism
(Westport, 1999), pp. 105-21, at p. 108.

24
named after him:
A. W. B. Simpson,
Cannibalism and the Common Law
(Chicago, 1984), p. 282.

25
came to call:
All these kinds of cannibalism, especially “revenge cannibalism,” are well
attested at intervals in Chinese history, too. See K. C. Chang, ed.,
Food in Chinese Culture
(New York, 1977).

25
feed off the dead:
Memoirs of Sergeant Burgogne,
1812-13 (New York, 1958).

25
the “custom of the sea”:
Simpson,
Cannibalism and the Common Law,
passim.

25
“brains of his apprentice”:
Ibid., p. 132.

25
an open boat:
Ibid., p. 145.

25
eaten by the others:
Way, “The Cutting Edge of Culture,” p. 135.

26
those who died:
P. P. Read,
Alive
(New York, 1974).

27
“to eat mutton”:
On these texts see F. Lestringant,
Le Huguenot et le sauvage
(Paris, 1990) and
Cannibalism
(London, 2000).

27
“their game”:
D. Gardner, “Anthropophagy, Myth and the Subtle Ways of Ethnocentrism,” in Goldman,
Anthropology of Cannibalism,
pp. 27-49.

27
in their culture:
T. M. Ernst, “Onabasulu Cannibalism and the Moral Agents of Misfortune,” in Goldman,
Anthropology of Cannibalism,
pp. 143-59, at p. 145.

27
and the Pacific:
P. R. Sanday,
Divine Hunger: Cannibalism As a Cultural System
(Cambridge, 1986), p. x.

27
lost warriors:
Ibid., p. 6.

27
at work:
Ernst, “Onabasulu Cannibalism,” p. 147.

27
nonrenewable in nature:
Sanday,
Divine Hunger,
p. 69; A. Meigs, “Food As a Cultural Construction,” in
Food and Foodways,
ii (1988), pp. 341-59.

28
cycle of fertility:
Sanday,
Divine Hunger,
pp. 72-82.

28
nine hundred stones:
R. A. Derrick,
A History of Fiji,
2 vols. (Suva, 1957), p. 22.

28
“symbolizing dominance”:
Sanday,
Divine Hunger,
p. 21.

29
“cooked men”:
Sahlins, quoted in ibid., p. 22. See P. Brown and D. Tuzin, eds.,
The Ethnography of Cannibalism
(Wellington, 1983).

29
“better than savages”:
N. J. Dawood, ed.,
Arabian Nights
(Harmondsworth, 1954), p. 45.

30
at harvest time:
A. Shelton, “Huichol Attitudes to Maize,” in Chapman and Macbeth,
Food for Humanity,
pp. 34-44.

30
fear the fire:
S. Coe,
America's First Cuisines
(Austin, 1994), p. 10.

31
but for salvation:
W. K. Powers and M. M. N. Powers, “Metaphysical Aspects of an Oglala Food System,” in M. Douglas, ed.,
Food in the Social Order: Studies of Food and Festivities in Three American Communities
(New York, 1984), pp. 40-96.

31
conservation measure:
M. Harris,
Good to Eat: Riddles of Food and Culture
(London, 1986), pp. 56-66.

32
“very dirty and loathsome”:
Quoted in M. Douglas,
Purity and Danger
(London, 1984), p. 31.

32
pig and camel:
Ibid., p. 55.

32
infant a cough:
Jansen,
Food and Nutrition in Fiji,
pp. 632-34.

32
food will die:
Douglas,
Purity and Danger,
p. 155.

32
cling to the womb:
Sahagún,
Historia,
p. 280.

33
“men more attentive”:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
pp. 92-93.

33
Paleolithic cave:
T. Taylor,
The Prehistory of Sex
(London, 1996), p. 87.

34
fennel for colitis:
Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 72.

34
melon and millet:
C. Bromberger, “Eating Habits and Cultural Boundaries in Northern Iran,” in S. Zubaida and R. Tapper, eds.,
Culinary Cultures of the Middle East
(London, 1994), pp. 185-201.

34
strong spices:
E. N. Anderson,
The Food of China
(New Haven, 1988), pp. 187-90.

34
pumpkin and papaya:
A. Beardsworth and T. Keil,
Sociology on the Menu
(London, 1997), p. 128.

35
treatise of antiquity:
quoted in Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 261.

35
from sewer water:
Galen,
De bonis malisque sucis,
A. M. Ieraci Bio, ed. (Naples, 1987), pp. 6, 9.

35
for the elderly:
Galen,
Scripta minora,
eds. J. Marquardt, I. E. P. von Müller and G. Helmreich, 3 vols. (Leipzig, 1884-93) (“De sanitate tuenda,” c. 5).

36
“rotted to the roots”:
S. de Champlain,
Voyages,
W. L. Grant, ed. (1907), pp. 33-42.

37
suited to it:
F. López-Ríos Fernández,
Medicina naval española en la época de los descubrimientos
(Barcelona, 1993), pp. 85-163. The quotations from Lind
(A Treatise of the Scurvy,
1753, facsimile ed. [Edinburgh, 1953]) in the following two paragraphs are quoted from this work.

38
“plenty of it”:
Ibid., pp. 109-11.

38
“lunacy, convulsions”:
G. Williams,
The Prize of All the Oceans
(London, 2000), pp. 45-46.

39
“days fit for duty”:
J. Lind,
A Treatise of the Scurvy
(Edinburgh, 1953), p. 148; López-Ríos Fernández,
Medicina naval española,
pp. 106-7.

39
recommendation was deleted:
M. E. Hoare, ed.,
The Resolution Journal of Johann Reinhold Forster,
4 vols. (London, 1981-82), iii, 454.

39
come to hand:
P. LeRoy,
A Narrative of the Singular Adventures of Four Russian Sailors Who Were Cast Away on the Desert Island of East Spitzbergen
(London, 1774), pp. 69-72.

40
“drinking water”:
J. Dunmore, ed.,
The Journal of Jean-François de Galaup de la Pérouse,
2 vols. (London, 1994), ii, 317, 431-32.

40
up and about:
M. Palau, ed.,
Malaspina '94
(Madrid, 1994), p. 74.

40
reached Valparaiso:
Vancouver,
Voyage,
pp. 1471-72.

41
moral health, too?:
S. Nissenbaum,
Sex, Diet and Debility in Jacksonian America: Sylvester Graham and Health Reform
(Westport, 1980).

41
“did not continue”:
C. F. Beckingham et al., eds.,
The Itinerario of Jerónimo Lobo
(London, 1984), pp. 262-63.

41
“feed luxuriously”:
Quoted in C. Spencer,
The Heretics' Feast: A History of Vegetarianism
(London, 1993), p. 100.

42
“invigorating diet”:
Wealth of Nations
(1784), iii, 341. See also K. Thomas,
Man and the Natural World
(London, 1983).

42
“human blood”:
Henry Brougham, quoted in T. Morton,
Shelley and the Revolution in Taste
(Cambridge, 1994), p. 26.

42
competition between species:
G. Nicholson,
On the Primeval Diet of Man
(1801), ed. R. Preece (Lewiston, 1999), p. 8.

42
“matter for corruption”:
Ibid., p. 33.

42
“rice husks will be”:
C. B. Heiser,
Seed to Civilization: The Story of Food
(Cambridge, 1990), p. 85.

42
sacred texts:
J. Ritson,
An Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food as a Moral Duty
(1802).

43
“other motives”:
P. B. Shelley,
A Vindication of Natural Diet
(London, 1813); ed. F. E. Worland (London, 1922).

43
tree of Eden:
Morton,
Shelley and the Revolution,
p. 136.

43
“sufficient nourishment”:
Ibid., p. 29; M. Shelley,
Frankenstein
(Chicago, 1982), p. 142.

44
virgin soil:
Nissenbaum,
Sex, Diet and Debility,
p. 6.

44
“this is evil”:
Ibid., p. 127.

44
he called Granula:
Ibid., pp. 151-52.

44
with roughage:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 93.

44
“unscientific feeding”:
E. S. Weigley,
Sarah Tyson Rorer: The Nation's Instructress in Dietetics and Cookery
(Philadelphia, 1977), p. 37.

45
“of the stomach”:
Ibid., pp. 125, 138.

45
“city or country”:
Ibid., p. 61.

45
recycled leftovers:
Ibid., pp. 2, 63, 139.

45
potato around it:
Ibid., p. 48.

46
laboratory science:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 87.

46
“life and work”:
Ibid., p. 88.

46
“juices of the body”:
A. W. Hofmann,
The Life-work of Liebig
(London, 1876), p. 27.