Near a Thousand Tables (50 page)

170
in other continents:
Fernández-Armesto,
Civilizations,
pp. 93-109.

170
“dense population”:
The Prairie
(New York, n.d.), p. 6.

171
fed imported livestock:
A. W. Crosby,
Ecological Imperialism: The Biological Expansion of Europe
(Cambridge, 1986.)

171
“seasoned bread”:
P. Gerhard, “Black Conquistador in Mexico,”
Hispanic American Historical Review,
viii (1978), pp. 451-59.

171
were their mainstays:
C. M. Scarry and E. J. Reitz, “Herbs, Fish, Scum and Vermin: Subsistence Strategies in Sixteenth-Century Spanish Florida,” in D. Hurst Thomas, ed.,
Columbian Consequences,
ii: (Washington, 1990), pp. 343-54.

172
construction materials:
W. Cronon,
Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West
(New York, 1991).

173
“conquering race”:
A. de Tocqueville,
Writings on Empire and Slavery,
ed. J. Pitts (Baltimore, 2001), p. 61.

175
the Indian Ocean:
F. Fernández-Armesto,
The Canary Islands After the Conquest
(Oxford, 1982), p. 70.

176
on the spot:
B. D. Smith, “The Origins of Agriculture in North America,”
Science,
ccxlvi (1989), 1566-71.

176
pounded for flour:
B. Trigger and W. E. Washburn, eds.,
The Cambridge History of the Native Peoples of the Americas,
i (Cambridge, 1996), 162.

177
their predecessors:
G. Amelagos and M. C. Hill, “An Evaluation of the Biological Consequences of the Mississippian Transformation,” in D. H. Dye and C. A. Cox, eds.,
Towns and Temples Along the Mississippi
(Tuscaloosa, 1990), pp. 16-37.

177
same name:
Lafitau,
Moeurs des sauvages amériquains,
i, 70.

178
nurture freedom:
Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium,
p. 353.

178
“introduce them here”:
Battara's
Prattica agraria
(1798), i, 95, quoted in Camporesi,
Magic Harvest,
p. 22.

179
as in China:
Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium,
p. 353.

180
population growth:
M. Morineau, “The Potato in the XVIIIth Century,” in Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
pp. 17-36.

180
“seen in America”:
Juan de Velasco, quoted in Coe,
America's First Cuisines,
p. 38.

181
Italian coffee makers:
J. Leclant, “Coffee and Cafés in Paris, 1644-93,” in Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
pp. 86-97, at pp. 87-89.

181
“perfect love liquor”:
Ibid., p. 90.

182
“Holland rich”:
Tr. R. Edwards (Harmondsworth, 1987), pp. 73-74 (punctuation modified).

182
“‘chocolate of Chiapa'”:
T. Gage,
The English-American his Travail by Sea and Land,
(1648), p. 7.

183
wooden stick:
S. D. Coe,
The True History of Chocolate
(London, 1996), p. 65.

183
Gulf of Guinea:
Ibid., p. 201.

183
the Industrial Revolution:
J. Goody, “Industrial Food: Towards the Development of a World Cuisine,” in Counihan and van Esterik,
Food and Culture,
pp. 338-56; S. W. Mintz, “Time, Sugar and Sweetness,” in ibid., pp. 357-69.

184
into a monarchy:
E. S. Dodge,
Islands and Empires: Western Impact on the Pacific and East Asia
(Minneapolis, 1976), pp. 137-39.

184
“other side”:
Ibid., p. 233.

184
“they would expect”:
Ibid., p. 409.

185
“provoking to us”:
Ibid., p. 418.

185
“pork and potatoes”:
J. Belich,
Making Peoples: A History of the New Zealanders
(Auckland, 1996), pp. 145-46.

185
performed the entire job:
F. Crowley,
A Documentary History of Australia,
i (1980), pp. 10, 24, 32.

186
“French apple tree”:
A. Frost, cited in F. Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium
(London, 1996), pp. 641, 747. See now A. Frost,
Sir Joseph Banks and the Transfer of Plants to and from the South Pacific
(Melbourne, forthcoming, 2002).

186
unexperienced environments:
Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium,
pp. 640-41.

187
“to an end”:
Quoted in Cheng,
Musings of a Chinese Gourmet,
p. 147.

187
“bread or a potato”:
C. E. Francatelli,
A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes
(London, 1977), p. 16.

188
eat with mustard:
Ibid., pp. 44-45.

188
“for your supper”:
Ibid., p. 22.

189
in patent foods:
J. M. Strang, “Caveat Emptor: Food Adulteration in Nineteenth-Century England,”
Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery,
1986:
The Cooking Medium: Proceedings
(London, 1987), pp. 129-33.

189
in the kingdom:
Ibid., pp. 13-19, 31-32, 89.

192
launched the “Green Revolution”:
L. Burbank,
An Architect of Nature
(London, 1939), pp. 1, 5, 27, 32, 34, 41; F. W. Clampett,
Luther Burbank,
“Our Good Infidel” (New York, 1926), pp. 21-22; K. Pandora, in
American National Biography.

193
“bread from air”:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 24.

193
battery breed:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 109.

193
ten million chicks:
W. H. Wilson and A. J. Banks,
The Chicken and the Egg
(New York, 1955), p. 10.

193
“bloody stumps”:
B. MacDonald,
The Egg and I
(Bath, 1946), pp. 65, 115.

193
feather coat:
Wilson and Banks,
Chicken and the Egg,
p. 38.

194
“governed by Nature”:
C. Wilson, in F. H. Hinsley, ed.,
New Cambridge Modern History,
xi (Cambridge, 1976), 55.

195
“managing them”:
R. Scola,
Feeding the Victorian City: The Food Supply of Manchester, 1770-1870
(Manchester, 1992), pp. 159-62.

195
“of common things”:
H. V. Morton,
A Stranger in Spain
(London, 1983), p. 130.

195
marketplaces and neighborhoods:
J. Burnett,
Plenty and Want: A Social History of Diet in England from 1815 to the Present Day
(London, 1966), p. 35.

197
mass production of biscuits:
Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
pp. 156-57.

197
“biscuit tin”:
T. A. B. Corley,
Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits: Huntley and Palmers of Reading, 1822-1972
(London, 1972), pp. 52-55, 93-95.

198
cocoa butter:
Coe,
True History of Chocolate,
p. 243.

199
only $20,000:
S. F. Hinkle,
Hershey
(New York, 1964), pp. 8-15.

199
earn much less:
J. G. Brenner,
The Chocolate Wars: Inside the Secret World of Mars and Hershey
(London, 1999), pp. 9, 20, 42, 47-59.

200
“home therein”:
J. Liebig,
Researches on the Chemistry of Food
(London, 1847), p. 2.

200
“organized tissues”:
Ibid., p. 9.

201
“putrefactive bacteria”:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
pp. 107-108.

201
“smelling strong”:
Quoted in Toussaint-Samat,
History of Food,
p. 221.

202
in 1930:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 194.

202
have disappeared:
R. Mandrou, “Les comsommations des villes françaises (viandes et boissons) au milieu du XIXe siècle,”
Annales,
xvi (1961), 740-47.

203
twice a week:
R. S. Rowntree,
Poverty and Progress: A Second Social Survey of York
(London, 1941), pp. 172-97.

204
“bread pudding”:
Steingarten,
Man Who Ate Everything,
p. 37.

204
“coke and pot chips!”:
Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 197.

205
“twenty-one dynasties”:
M. Davis,
Late Victorian Holocausts: El Niño Famines and the Making of the Third World
(London, 2000), pp. 4-5, III.

205
35 percent:
B. Fagan,
Floods, Famines and Emperors: El Niño and the Fate of Civilizations
(London, 2000), p. 214.

205
thirty million in China:
Davis,
Late Victorian Holocausts,
p. 7.

205
“human survival”:
Ibid., p. 12.

205
“full of vultures”:
Ibid., p. 139.

205
“stopped the rain”:
Ibid., p. 102.

205
“eating India's bread”:
Ibid., p. 26.

205
availability of solutions:
Ibid., p. 146.

206
using the implement:
Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
pp. 60-61.

206
millions of lives:
Davis,
Late Victorian Holocausts,
pp. 283, 286.

206
monsoon failures:
L. R. Brown,
Seeds of Change: The Green Revolution and Development in the 1970s
(London, 1980), pp. xi, 6-7.

206
“still going on”:
F. Braudel, “Alimentation et categories de l'histoire,”
Annales,
xvi (1961), 723-28.

207
breeds of grain:
M. Carleton,
The Small Grains
(New York, 1916).

207
strength of stem:
H. Hanson, N. E. Borlaug and R. G. Anderson,
Wheat in the Third World
(Epping, 1982), pp. 15-17.

207
harvested per year:
Heiser,
Seed to Civilization,
p. 88.

207
coastal plain:
Hanson,
Wheat in the Third World,
pp. 17-19, 31.

207
by 1980:
Ibid., p. 40.

207
disease-resistant strains:
Heiser,
Seed to Civilization,
p. 77.

207
average for 1950:
Hanson,
Wheat in the Third World,
pp. 6, 15.

207
16.5 million tons in 1968:
Ibid., p. 48.

208
“newer variety”:
Ibid., p. 23.

208
“seem minor”:
Brown,
Seeds of Change,
p. ix.

208
95 percent of production:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 222.

208
“throw them away”:
quoted in J. Pottier,
Anthropology of Food: The Social Dynamics of Food Security
(Cambridge, 1999), p. 127.

208
“‘“you have accomplished”'”:
Hanson,
Wheat in the Third World,
p. 107.

209
“scientific halfwits”:
Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 161.

209
“to kill aphids”:
H. R. H. The Prince of Wales and C. Clover,
Highgrove: Portrait of an Estate
(London, 1993), p. 125.

209
in 1990:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 224.

211
“dining room”:
Quaestiones Naturales,
Book 3, Chapter 18.

211
in the field:
G. Pedrocco, “L'industrie alimentaire et les nouvelles techniques de conservation,” in Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
pp. 779-94, at p. 785.

213
sterilization by heating:
A. Capatti, “Le gout de la conserve,” in ibid., pp. 795-807, at p. 798.

213
west coast of France:
Goody,
Food and Love,
p. 160.

213
eaten in season:
Capatti, “Le gout de la conserve,” p. 799.

214
“thought of the juice”:
(London, 1957), pp. 116-17.

214
tinned salmon terrine:
Capatti, “Le gout de la conserve,” p. 801.

215
cookery in the Arctic:
Toussaint-Samat,
History of Food,
p. 751.

215
“heat and serve” variety:
Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
pp. 107-8.

216
“Stockyards”:
The Jungle
(Harmondsworth, 1965), p. 32.

216
“thirty million people”:
Ibid., p. 51.

216
“rat was a tidbit”:
Ibid., p. 163.

217
made purity pay:
R. C. Alberts,
The Great Provider: H. J. Heinz and His 57 Varieties
(London, 1973), pp. 7, 40, 102, 11, 130, 136-41;
A Golden Day: A Memorial and a Celebration
(Pittsburgh, 1925), pp. 17, 37.

218
in the 1980s:
J. R. Postgate,
Microbes and Man
(Cambridge, 1992), pp. 139-40, 146, 151.

219
“ate their flesh”:
Ibid., pp. 238-40.