Authors: Carson Kressley
Off the Cuff (3 page)
My Favorite Pair of Shoes
My favorite pair of shoes are brown suede Chelsea boots with a side gore that get better every time I wear them. They were hand sewn and bench made in England. I just absolutely love them and they look great with a gray flannel suit or jeans. If I ever get scared or lonely I hold them next to me, breathing in their leathery scent, and all is soon right with the world.
Shoes are an acquired taste. I'm just going to walk you through the basics (so all you good little straight bunnies need not get overwhelmed on me), because if I unravel the whole world of shoes, you could become obsessive-compulsively addicted to shoe shopping. And the next thing you know you'll be hanging out with “gender illusionists” and collecting Cher memorabilia.
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I'm not going to bother getting into specifics about the vast sea of casual shoes out thereâfrom monk strap shoes and Chukka Boots to the whole slew of slip-ons. All I can say is keep it
simple
, sassy. You can really get in trouble with “fashion” shoes for men.
simple
, sassy. You can really get in trouble with “fashion” shoes for men.
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So here is my list of the ten pairs of shoes that I promise you will take to your grave. (Notice I said that you will take
them,
not that they will send
you
to your grave. Important distinction, people!)
them,
not that they will send
you
to your grave. Important distinction, people!)
1.
The Black Oxford Lace-up, aka the blucher. This is the classic lace-up dress shoe (Ã la Beatles). And while we're at it, there is no such thing as a dress shoe that is not a lace-up. The black oxford is the perfect complement to all of your dark suits. Just don't wear them with a black suit, because you'll look like a lost Mormon missionary or a Bible salesman. Black bluchers with jeans are not bad as long as the shoe's not too fancy. I hate to see someone with an overdone dress shoe and a pair of jeans. It just looks stupid.
The Black Oxford Lace-up, aka the blucher. This is the classic lace-up dress shoe (Ã la Beatles). And while we're at it, there is no such thing as a dress shoe that is not a lace-up. The black oxford is the perfect complement to all of your dark suits. Just don't wear them with a black suit, because you'll look like a lost Mormon missionary or a Bible salesman. Black bluchers with jeans are not bad as long as the shoe's not too fancy. I hate to see someone with an overdone dress shoe and a pair of jeans. It just looks stupid.
2.
The Brown Wing Tip. The brown wing tipâalso sometimes called a “brogue”âis the ultimate classic shoe. It's a lot like an oxford, except wing tips have little holes punched into the leather in a pattern. Doesn't sound familiar? Think of the opening of
My Three Sons
. Those snappy little tapping toes were wearing wing tips, kids. The brown wing tip looks great with a gray pinstripe suit, as it does with a pair of jeans and an oxford shirt. And who doesn't love versatility?
The Brown Wing Tip. The brown wing tipâalso sometimes called a “brogue”âis the ultimate classic shoe. It's a lot like an oxford, except wing tips have little holes punched into the leather in a pattern. Doesn't sound familiar? Think of the opening of
My Three Sons
. Those snappy little tapping toes were wearing wing tips, kids. The brown wing tip looks great with a gray pinstripe suit, as it does with a pair of jeans and an oxford shirt. And who doesn't love versatility?
3.
The Loafer. As the Judds sang in their country chart topper, love can build a bridge. And a nice brown loafer (penny or tasselâyour choice) builds the
bridge from sportswear to more dressy clothes. You can wear loafers with a sports coat (but not with a suit) or with casual sportswearâeven jeansâand they still look cool and sophisticated in that Marlon Brando kind of way. Do I have to say more than Marlon and Brando? I don't think so. Loafers are also very Italian. In Milan, even the cabdrivers are cool. Why? Because they've got great loafers. And cute little Mercedes-Benz cabs! Who knew?
The Loafer. As the Judds sang in their country chart topper, love can build a bridge. And a nice brown loafer (penny or tasselâyour choice) builds the
bridge from sportswear to more dressy clothes. You can wear loafers with a sports coat (but not with a suit) or with casual sportswearâeven jeansâand they still look cool and sophisticated in that Marlon Brando kind of way. Do I have to say more than Marlon and Brando? I don't think so. Loafers are also very Italian. In Milan, even the cabdrivers are cool. Why? Because they've got great loafers. And cute little Mercedes-Benz cabs! Who knew?
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A word of caution about loafers: Beware the low vamp. No, this is not a trashy woman. The vamp refers to how far the shoe comes up the top of your foot. I hate to see shoes with a low vamp. They are
très
cheesy and they show way too much of your sock. Leave them in the
GoodFellas
wardrobe trailer, where they belong.
très
cheesy and they show way too much of your sock. Leave them in the
GoodFellas
wardrobe trailer, where they belong.
The Great Cordovan Mystery
There a lot of men walking around thinking that cordovan shoesâyou know, that mahogany, winey-dark colorâare okay to wear with a suit. Well let's talk about that, because it's
not
okay.
not
okay.
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It might help to take a step back and explain where cordovan comes from. Originally, cordovan was sinewy leather made from a horse's rump. I think you can probably guess how I feel about wearing a horse's ass on your feet. Back in the day when people used horses for farming and work and transportation, there were so many horses around that when they got old and they died, they would use horsehide to make things. Luckily, this is not so popular anymore. Most “cordovan” shoes today are not true cordovan; they're calfskin or leather that's been tanned to achieve what I like to call “cordovanosity.” It's a lovely color, but not for your suits.
4.
The Flip- Flop. For five dollars, flip-flops are more fun than an Asian hookerâat half the cost! They're a must have. Get them in black and brown. Then again, they're so inexpensive, why not get them in every color available? I'm not talking about Tevas here or any other nylon “tech sandal.” A technical sandal is about as stupid-looking as it sounds. I'm talking about a plain old flip-flop from J.Crew, Old Navy, or the little Brazilian beauty known as the Havaiana.
The Flip- Flop. For five dollars, flip-flops are more fun than an Asian hookerâat half the cost! They're a must have. Get them in black and brown. Then again, they're so inexpensive, why not get them in every color available? I'm not talking about Tevas here or any other nylon “tech sandal.” A technical sandal is about as stupid-looking as it sounds. I'm talking about a plain old flip-flop from J.Crew, Old Navy, or the little Brazilian beauty known as the Havaiana.
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In the summer, flip-flops are chic with absolutely everythingâshorts and a linen shirt, denim and a blue blazer, khakis and a white cotton oxford. But feel free to wear them right into the fall, as long as snow has not yet fallen and the temperature is still mild. I once wore a brown Jil Sander suit (that's a fancy lady designer from my homeland) with brown Old Navy flip-flops. But this look is not for amateurs. I'll admit that flip-flops are hard to wear in the city and hard to drive in (see Driving Moccasins, below, for those occasions), but that's part of the cachet.
5.
The Cowboy Boot. The cowboy boot is a classic American icon, right up there with baseball, apple pie, and show tunes. Okay, maybe not so much the show tunes for you. But cowboy boots made America great, and they'll look great on your feet, trust me. Go out and get a pair or I'll kick your ass. Wear them everywhere: in your living room, to a game, to the Emmys, to the opera. They can go everywhere except weddings or funerals, unless a rodeo clown is getting married or has died. Then you're in luck!
The Cowboy Boot. The cowboy boot is a classic American icon, right up there with baseball, apple pie, and show tunes. Okay, maybe not so much the show tunes for you. But cowboy boots made America great, and they'll look great on your feet, trust me. Go out and get a pair or I'll kick your ass. Wear them everywhere: in your living room, to a game, to the Emmys, to the opera. They can go everywhere except weddings or funerals, unless a rodeo clown is getting married or has died. Then you're in luck!
6.
The Chelsea Boot. They're called Chelsea boots because everyone in New York's Chelsea neighborhood, where nearly everyone is gay, owns a pair, and gay men know shoes, people. Chelsea boots are compact boots with a side gore, which is a stretchy little elastic panel that allows the boot to fit snugly
even though it doesn't have laces. I prefer them in black, but brown suede is yummy, too. Chelsea boots are classics that go well with absolutely everythingâthey're sexy and a little more rugged than your average dress shoe. And because they were invented for riding, they add just a little equestrian flair to your wardrobe. Trust me, horse people know clothes. It's never a bad idea to copy them.
The Chelsea Boot. They're called Chelsea boots because everyone in New York's Chelsea neighborhood, where nearly everyone is gay, owns a pair, and gay men know shoes, people. Chelsea boots are compact boots with a side gore, which is a stretchy little elastic panel that allows the boot to fit snugly
even though it doesn't have laces. I prefer them in black, but brown suede is yummy, too. Chelsea boots are classics that go well with absolutely everythingâthey're sexy and a little more rugged than your average dress shoe. And because they were invented for riding, they add just a little equestrian flair to your wardrobe. Trust me, horse people know clothes. It's never a bad idea to copy them.
The Glories of Shoe Shopping
Here are some little shopping tricks For treats for your tootsies. First of all, you should try on shoes later in the day, because your feet tend to expand as the day goes on. And make sure you're wearing the socks you're really going to wearâno trying on dress shoes with big white tube socks. Most importantly, don't get suckered by the cute salesgirl who tells you, “Don't worry if they're not comfortable now! They'll break in.” Let me tell you a secret. “Break in” is a code word for “Not gonna happen.” Shoes should feel comfortable when you try them on. If they're not comfortable when you buy them, they're probably not just going to magically morph into comfortable shoes later on.
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Finally, if while on your shopping journey you find a pair of comfortable shoes that you absolutely, absolutely love, and they are so “you,” and so great lookingâgo back and buy a second pair of the exact same shoe. Just like condoms, it's always good to have a backup. Trust me, you'll thank me later.
7.
The Classic Tennis Shoe. I'm not talking about white Reeboks here. And I'm not talking about all these exotic colored sneakers that make you look like a refugee from the Namibian national soccer team. I'm talking about black, navy or natural cotton Converse Chuck Taylors, which look great with jeans or a suit. They're always timeless and cool. Think James Dean. If Chucks don't tickle your fancy, try the classic black-and-white Adidas sambas or a chic pair of suede Pumas.
The Classic Tennis Shoe. I'm not talking about white Reeboks here. And I'm not talking about all these exotic colored sneakers that make you look like a refugee from the Namibian national soccer team. I'm talking about black, navy or natural cotton Converse Chuck Taylors, which look great with jeans or a suit. They're always timeless and cool. Think James Dean. If Chucks don't tickle your fancy, try the classic black-and-white Adidas sambas or a chic pair of suede Pumas.
Going Sockless
Going sockless can add a WASP-ish, care-free joie de vivre to your look. It's so cool and has a trendy kind of sophistication. I often like to wear shoes without socks from Memorial Day through Labor Day, for the perfect summer chic casual look. But this is only acceptable in casual situationsâfor those easy breezy summer weekends when you're on vacation or at the beach and it's fun to wear a pair of jeans, a blue blazer, and a white shirt with loafers and no socks. Seeing the tanned tops of your feet can give you all the sexy allure of a Kennedy, without those pesky DUIs.
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But going sockless is not for dinner at the White House or for a meeting with your loan officer. In fact, you should never go sockless if you're wearing a suit. This is one of those “Do as Carson says, not as Carson does” times, though, because I confess I have gone sockless with a suit (like on the cover of this book!). But I don't recommend it. At least not for amateurs. Leave this one to the pros.
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There is one caveat. If you do choose to take the sockless plunge, you need to use powder in your shoes to avoid your sweaty feet smelling like a cheese factory. Not appealing, people.
TIP
Fairy Carson Explains All About Taps
Please, my straight friends, do not put taps on your shoes. They're devised to prevent wear and tear on the toe and the heel, but itâs really not that expensive to have shoes resoled, and most leather will wear more evenly without them. Not to mention that you're going to sound like some out of work chorus line member from 42nd Street. I only like taps on Liza.
8.
The Athletic Sneaker. The athletic shoe is where you can knock yourself out. This shoe can be as ugly as you want it to be. (I can't believe I just said that!) It just needs to provide support and protect against bunions and corns. Good times, good times.
The Athletic Sneaker. The athletic shoe is where you can knock yourself out. This shoe can be as ugly as you want it to be. (I can't believe I just said that!) It just needs to provide support and protect against bunions and corns. Good times, good times.
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It pains me to have to remind you that athletic shoes are for the gym and for the gym
only
. We're in the midst of a raging sneaker epidemic in this great nation of ours, which has been propagated by the freakishly hugeâand growing! âselection of sneakers available. I fear that the number of sneaker styles out there will soon exceed the national population. True athletic shoes, meaning any sneaker that is predominantly white, should be saved for the gym. You can't even wear them to get coffee in the morning. And one thing I really hate to see is men on their morning commute wearing sneakers with a suit. That's a one-way ticket to Tragikestan. It saddens me more than global deforestation. Don't ever, ever do that or, Prada help me, I will personally come and rip those shoes off your feet.
only
. We're in the midst of a raging sneaker epidemic in this great nation of ours, which has been propagated by the freakishly hugeâand growing! âselection of sneakers available. I fear that the number of sneaker styles out there will soon exceed the national population. True athletic shoes, meaning any sneaker that is predominantly white, should be saved for the gym. You can't even wear them to get coffee in the morning. And one thing I really hate to see is men on their morning commute wearing sneakers with a suit. That's a one-way ticket to Tragikestan. It saddens me more than global deforestation. Don't ever, ever do that or, Prada help me, I will personally come and rip those shoes off your feet.
9.
The Driving Moccasin. A moccasin made for exactly what it says: driving your car. And even if you don't build your wardrobe around driving, you should still have a pair of these, because they're comfortable, they're just plain cool, and they look great with everything. They're especially yummy in chocolate brown and, for the more daring, baby blue. Okay, I confess that driving mocs may not be for amateurs or the average Joe, but who wants to be average?
The Driving Moccasin. A moccasin made for exactly what it says: driving your car. And even if you don't build your wardrobe around driving, you should still have a pair of these, because they're comfortable, they're just plain cool, and they look great with everything. They're especially yummy in chocolate brown and, for the more daring, baby blue. Okay, I confess that driving mocs may not be for amateurs or the average Joe, but who wants to be average?
10.
The Tuxedo Shoe. If you've made it this far, consider yourself among the lucky. If you already own tuxedo shoes, you probably own a tuxedo. Good for
The Tuxedo Shoe. If you've made it this far, consider yourself among the lucky. If you already own tuxedo shoes, you probably own a tuxedo. Good for
you! I'm beginning to like you already. If you don't, keep it simple on this one and go with a black patent leather lace-up, which is always timeless and classic.
What Color
Shoes with Suits?
Shoes with Suits?
I wouldn't be so worried about rules. It's case by case and you just have to see what looks good. I love a navy suit with a brown shoe. It's very rich and very, very English. I like black shoes with navy as well. Brown goes with pretty much everything but black. If someone tells you brown is the new black, I have news for you, people: They're lying.
For those who are firmly in touch with their masculine side, most men's fashion books will tell you that the dark velvet slipper is appropriate with a tuxedo. I personally love the formal slipper embroidered with your monogram (or Gucci's or Ralph Lauren's,) a family crest, or a sartorial nod to a favorite hobbyâperhaps martini glasses or a skull and crossbones. (Corporate logos do not count.) Just keep the vamp high so as not to look like an out-of-work ballet dancer.
A word of caution: The velvet slipper is for real pros. In all honesty, I think velvet slippers can be far too gay sometimes, even for me. That's saying a lot, people. Let's just leave it there and move on.
10a.
I know, I know, I said ten, but if you live someplace where inclement weather is a factor, you might want some snow boots. Unless you live in Alaska, you're not going to wear them every day, so you can invest in a pair that will last for a number of years. Make sure they look good and they do their job.
I know, I know, I said ten, but if you live someplace where inclement weather is a factor, you might want some snow boots. Unless you live in Alaska, you're not going to wear them every day, so you can invest in a pair that will last for a number of years. Make sure they look good and they do their job.
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