Pasta Modern (12 page)

14 tablespoons (200 g) butter

5 to 6 small zucchini, minced

3 medium carrots, minced

12 ounces (340 g) haricots verts or very thin string beans, minced

1 ¼ pounds (570 g)
bucatini
or
perciatelli
, preferably Garofalo brand

2 large eggs, beaten

Grated pecorino cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces (340 g) deli-sliced high-quality provolone or caciocavallo cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Very generously butter an 8-to 9-inch (20-to 23-cm) dome-shaped ovensafe container, such as a Pyrex or metal bowl.

In a large sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and add the zucchini; fry until it is soft. Put the zucchini into a large bowl. In the same pan, heat another 1 tablespoon of the butter and cook the carrots and string beans over low heat, covered, until they are tender, adding a few drops of water, if needed. Stir them into the bowl with the zucchini until well combined. Set aside 1 cup of this vegetable mixture as garnish.

Boil the pasta in salted water for two thirds of the time the package directs. Drain and divide, putting three fourths of the pasta into the large bowl of vegetables and the remaining one fourth into a small bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter to the small bowl, toss, and set aside; it will be used for the outer part of the dome.

Add the remaining 9 tablespoons (130 g) butter to the pasta-vegetable bowl and stir until the butter melts, then stir in the eggs, ½ cup (50 g) of pecorino, and a pinch of pepper. Using kitchen scissors, cut into the pasta mixture so it is broken up a little. Set aside.

Using one strand from the plain buttered pasta, start in the center of the prepared domed container and twirl the pasta around itself to form a coil
(image #1)
. Continue the coil with another strand of pasta, starting where the last strand ended so it is in one continuous line; continue with additional strands until the pasta reaches halfway up the pan. Line the pasta with slices of the provolone, pressing the cheese firmly against the pasta
(image #2)
. Put in half of the vegetable-pasta mixture, pressing firmly into the bottom and sides of the bowl to remove any air pockets and densely pack the filling
(image #3)
. This is the key to getting a nice compact dome that stays together when sliced. Top with cheese slices.

Continue coiling the plain pasta around the dome to the top
(image #4)
. Line the sides with more cheese slices and top with the remaining vegetable-pasta mixture and slices of cheese. Press the pasta down firmly with a spatula or wooden spoon. Cut the remaining plain buttered pasta with scissors and press it on top of the mixture
(image #5)
.

Cover the bowl with aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and bake, uncovered, for another 15 minutes, or until the pasta is golden and set. Let it rest for 10 minutes, then put a serving plate on top of the bowl and invert it. Hit the bowl with a wooden spoon to help the pasta release and, using the tip of a spoon or butter knife along the bottom edge of the bowl, carefully remove the bowl from the pasta
(image #6)
. Serve garnished with the reserved cup of minced vegetables.

{
Pasta ai topinambur
}

SERVES
4
|
REGION:
Piedmont

Jerusalem artichokes arrived in Italy in the 1600s, and like the other New World foods—corn, tomatoes, and chocolate—they were quickly incorporated into fabulous regional dishes. Jerusalem artichokes are especially popular in Piedmont, where they are a key ingredient in the area’s famed
bagna cauda
, as well as in many risotto and pasta dishes. In this dish, the Jerusalem artichoke’s sweet, nutty flavor pairs well with hearty whole-grain pasta made with farro.

Olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

5 large Jerusalem artichokes

1 pound (455 g) long or short farro pasta, preferably Felicetti brand

3 to 4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

Parmesan or other aged cheese

In a large skillet, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil and cook the onions until golden, about 12 minutes. Meanwhile, scrub the artichokes with a brush, then thinly slice them. Add them to the onions and cook over very low heat until they are very soft, about 10 minutes.

Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain.

In a food processor, puree the onion mixture with 2 tablespoons oil until smooth. Return the puree to the pan and toss it with the pasta for a minute or two, adding a little cooking water if it is dry. Serve topped with the pine nuts and shaved or grated cheese.

A VEGGIE BY ANY OTHER NAME

According to the
Oxford English Dictionary
, the term
Jerusalem artichoke
is thought to be a corruption of the Italian
girasole articiocco
, sunflower artichoke. It was so called because the tuber tastes like artichoke and its flower resembles sunflowers. In Italy, Jerusalem artichokes are called everything from
patata del Canada
, Canadian potatoes, to
pera di terra
, pears from the ground, or
tarufala bastarda
, bastard truffles. The most common name for them in Italy is
topinambur
, after a Brazilian Indian tribe called Topinamboux that happened to be in Europe about the same time the vegetables were arriving. The plant was erroneously thought to have originated in Brazil as well. In Piedmont, they’re also called
ciapinabò
and there’s a fun three-day festival,
la sagra del ciapinabò
, every year in the Piedmont town of Carignano, just a bit south of Turin, where you can taste hundreds of Jerusalem artichoke recipes and party with the locals until midnight.

“STRINGS” & STRING BEANS

{
Spaghetti e fagiolini
}

SERVES
4
to
6
|
REGION:
Tuscany and Sicily

Homey comfort food—try it once and you’ll want to make it over and over again. It’s ridiculously simple, despite being from one of Italy’s most accomplished chefs: Fabbio Picchi of Cibreo, in Florence. String beans, tomatoes, onions, and garlic are simmered until very soft and savory, then tossed with “little strings,” aka spaghetti.

1 pound (455 g) very thin string beans or haricots verts

1 (14-ounce/400-g) can diced tomatoes

1 large red onion, very thinly sliced

Olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

Red pepper flakes

1 heaping cup (100 g) minced fresh parsley, stems included

Salt

1 pound (455 g) spaghetti or any pasta

Parmesan or other aged cheese

Put the beans, tomatoes, onions, ½ cup (120 ml) oil, garlic, and a pinch of pepper flakes in a large saucepan. Bring them to a simmer on medium-low heat, covered, and cook until the beans are very soft, almost falling apart, about 50 minutes. Let the mixture cool to room temperature so all the flavors can meld. Stir most of the parsley into the sauce, and season to taste with salt.

Boil the spaghetti in salted water until it is al dente and drain. Toss into the sauce and top with shaved or grated cheese and the rest of the minced parsley.

PASTA WITH ZESTY HORSERADISH-TOMATO SAUCE

{
Pasta al ferretto al rafano
}

SERVES
4
|
REGION:
Basilicata

Horseradish on pasta? I was dubious, and figured my Italian friends were pulling my leg when they told me what I’d be eating.

But no—it’s real. In Basilicata, they have been topping pasta with grated horseradish for centuries. Despite my skepticism, I was amazed to find that horseradish adds a marvelous brightness. The horseradish must be fresh, not jarred, grated right onto each person’s dish at the table, just like you’d do with cheese.

Traditionally, this dish is served with
pasta al ferretto
, named after the metal rod the dough was rolled around. It’s available dried in the States, or you can substitute homemade
“knitting needle” pasta
, but the recipe is fabulous with any shape, size, or type of pasta!

1 pound (455 g) fresh tomatoes

1 sweet onion, finely minced

Olive oil

⅓ cup (37 g) homemade coarsely ground breadcrumbs, toasted

⅓ cup (40 g) coarsely chopped walnuts

1 pound (455 g)
pasta al ferretto
or any pasta

Fresh horseradish

Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for a few seconds, then remove them with a slotted spoon. Peel, deseed, and dice the tomatoes.

In a wide saucepan over medium-high heat, warm 3 tablespoons oil and cook the onions until very soft, about 5 minutes. Stir the tomatoes into the onions and cook, covered, on very low heat for about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the breadcrumbs, walnuts, and 2 tablespoons oil in a small nonstick pan, and cook on medium-high heat until the breadcrumbs are dark golden. Set aside.

Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and stir into the tomato sauce until well combined, adding a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking water if needed. Sprinkle with the walnut-breadcrumb mixture and serve. Top with a tablespoon or two of fresh horseradish grated on a cheese grater.

{
Spaghetti affumicati con pomodorini grigliati
}

SERVES
4
|
REGION:
Northern and central Italy

Some of Italy’s most innovative chefs are smoking pasta these days, a technique that adds a rich layer of flavor. Here’s a fabulously simple way to do it at home, without a smoker or other complicated equipment. You’ll love the technique!

The smoked pasta itself is so tasty that you’ll be tempted to eat it by the fistful, even without sauce. But you’ll love this sauce, which delivers the flavor of slow oven-roasted tomatoes, but without turning on the oven! The tomatoes are seared in a very hot skillet until charred on the cut side, then turned over, covered, and left to pan roast.