Pie and Pastry Bible (104 page)

Bake the baklava for about 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Remove it to a rack to cool to room temperature.

PREPARE THE SYRUP

In a medium saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together the sugar, water, honey, and syrup until all of the sugar is moistened. Over medium heat, stirring constantly, bring it to a simmer. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for
30 minutes. Remove the syrup from the heat and add the lemon juice. Cover it to keep it hot, or reheat it when the baklava has cooled.

With a sharp knife, slash all the way through to the bottom of the baklava along each scored line. Spoon the hot syrup over the cooled pastry. Allow it to stand uncovered for at least an hour to absorb the syrup, then sprinkle the baklava with the reserved pistachio nuts.

STORE

Room temperature, 3 to 7 days. (The syrup starts to crystallize after 3 days, but some people actually prefer this change in texture. I prefer it uncrystallized, as it seems more moist.)

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Fresh fillo (see page 365) is easiest to work with, but, in either case, be sure to keep it covered to prevent drying.

This recipe can be doubled or tripled and baked in a larger pan. If making larger sizes, to cut the diamonds, divide a short end of the pan by increments of approximately 2 inches and a long side by the same number of divisions and make angled cuts connecting these division marks. (A full-size professional sheet pan measuring 24 inches by 16 inches will have 8 divisions on each side.) Increase the baking time and bake until the top is golden.

UNDERSTANDING

The addition of a small amount of corn syrup to the sugar syrup prevents crystallization for 3 days, though some people enjoy the crystallized effect.

The nuts are not toasted (except walnuts, which are only roasted briefly to remove the skins) because they cook and darken during baking.

Clarifying the butter makes the fillo sheets more crisp.

In order for the baklava to absorb the syrup well, there must be a contrast in temperature. Either the baklava must be hot and the syrup cool or the baklava cool and the syrup hot for it to be absorbed evenly.

GASCON APPLE PIE

I
first sampled this unusual pastry when visiting André and Joceleine Daguin at their renowned Hôtel de Paris in Auch, in the Southwest of France.

In this recipe, the fine, flaky fillo encases tart apple slices that are perfumed with Armagnac and orange flower water. A simple arrangement of the fillo scraps makes the dessert resemble a giant ethereal pastry rose that seems to float in the pie plate. It is one of the most naturally beautiful pastries I know. In Gascony, where it is called
pastis Gascon,
the dough is handmade and stretched. It is very similar to strudel, but with the addition of egg yolks for extra color and richness of flavor. Gascony’s proximity to Morocco, and its large North African population, are evidenced by the popularity of couscous restaurants and Middle Eastern pastries like this magical one.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 375°F. • BAKING TIME: 50 TO 60 MINUTES SERVES: 6 TO 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*To core apples, cut them in half and use a melon bailer to scoop out the cores.
1 pounds apples (about 4 medium), peeled, cored, and sliced inch thick*	6 cups (sliced)	1½ pounds 680 grams (sliced)
granulated sugar	3 tablespoons	1.3 ounces	38 grams
light brown sugar	3 tablespoons, packed	1.5 ounces	45 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
Armagnac or cognac	liquid cup	2.6 ounces	75 grams
orange flower water (see page 638)	1½ tablespoons	0.75 ounce	22 grams
walnuts, lightly toasted and chopped medium-fine	¾ cup	2.6 ounces	75 grams
melted butter, preferably clarified (see page 629)	7 tablespoons	3.5 ounces	100 grams
fillo, preferably fresh (see page 365)	12 sheets	8 ounces	227 grams
optional: powdered sugar	•	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch pie plate, preferably glass

In a large bowl, gently toss the apples with the sugars, salt, and Armagnac or Cognac. Cover tightly and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours, and up to overnight, tossing once or twice. (If macerating the apples overnight, refrigerate them.)

Drain the apples, reserving the juice. You should have about ¾ cup. Place it in a greased 4-cup heatproof glass measure and reduce it in the microwave to about 3 tablespoons. (Or reduce it in a small saucepan, stirring constantly.) When cool, swirl in the orange flower water. Add it to the apples, together with the walnuts, and mix them gently together.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level before preheating.

With a pastry brush or feather, lightly coat the bottom of the pie pan with some of the clarified butter.

Place the fillo between two sheets of plastic wrap and cover it with a damp dish towel. Keep it well covered, re-covering it each time you remove a sheet, to prevent it from drying. Remove 1 sheet and place it on the work surface. Quickly brush it with about 1 teaspoon of clarified butter, starting at the perimeter and then dabbing it in the center. Do not attempt to coat the entire sheet evenly, as too much butter will result in a greasy texture. Drape the fillo sheet into the pie pan, molding it to fit the pan and allowing the excess to drape over the sides. Repeat with 7 more sheets, brushing each with butter.

Empty the apple mixture into the fillo-lined pie pan. Bring the overhanging fillo up and over the apples to enclose them partially. Brush another 2 fillo sheets with butter and fold them crosswise in half. Butter them again on both sides, place them on top of the apples, covering them completely, and tuck the ends into the sides of the pie pan. There will be a depression in the center.

Butter another sheet of fillo and cut it in half. Gather up each piece in loose ruffles and arrange it toward the center of the pie to fill the depression partially. Butter the final piece of fillo and fold it in the long way into thirds. Coil it loosely to form a rose and place it in the center of the pie.

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the fillo is golden and a cake tester or skewer inserted into the apples meets with little resistance. Allow the pie to cool to room temperature, as the moistened pastry seems slightly tough when warm.

If desired, dust the pie lightly with powered sugar before serving.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 3 days. (The flavors are even more delicious the second day.)

PEARS WRAPPED IN FILLO

T
he translucent delicacy of pear melds beautifully with an almond cream filling and is all the more alluring encased in a fine crunchy pastry such as fillo.

EQUIPMENT

Kitchen twine and a 17- by 12-inch baking sheet or jelly-roll pan (or 2 smaller sheets)

POACH THE PEARS

Peel the pears just before you poach them so that they do not darken.

In a nonreactive skillet just large enough to hold the pears in a single layer, combine the water, lemon juice, eau-de-vie, sugar, and vanilla bean and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the pears and bring the liquid to a boil. Place a round of parchment on top of the pears. Simmer over low heat, tightly covered, for 8 to 10 minutes (turn the pears after 5 minutes if the liquid does not cover them completely) or until a cake tester inserted in thickest part of a pear enters easily. The pears should still be slightly firm. Remove the pan from the heat and cool, covered only by the parchment, for at least 1 hour.