Pie and Pastry Bible (113 page)

Place the roll on the buttered cookie sheet. Brush it with the egg glaze and cover it lightly with greased waxed paper. Cover and refrigerate the remaining glaze. Allow the roll to rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level and place a baking stone or cookie sheet on it before preheating.

Brush the roll again with the glaze and place it in the oven on the stone. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown. Using two large pancake turners, lift the roll to a rack to cool. Cut into 2-inch pieces on the bias. Discard the end pieces or cut up and serve in pieces for those who enjoy extra pastry without the filling.

VARIATION

STRUDEL DOUGH OR FILLO POPPY SEED ROLL
Replace the dough with 1 recipe of strudel dough (page 387) or 6 sheets of fillo (see page 393). Mix the raisins into the poppy seeds. Spread the mixture in a 14- by 3-inch rectangle across the bottom of the dough. Roll as directed for strudel or fillo and cut 3 steam vents (see page 391). Bake in the upper part of the oven at 375°F. for 30 to 35 minutes or until golden. Cool for at least 15 minutes before cutting with a thin sharp knife. (Serrated works well for the dough but not for the filling.) This variation keeps at room temperature for up to 3 days but, after the first day, needs to be covered with plastic wrap, or the dough becomes too dry (as there is very little moisture in the filling).

STORE

Room temperature, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 6 months.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Use fresh poppy seeds. When stale, they become rancid and very bitter. Do not grind them too fine or the oil will start to exude. (Poppy seeds can be stored in the refrigerator for several months or frozen for about a year.)

MILK RUM STRUDEL ROYALE

T
his is an amazing strudel, unlike any other. It has straight as opposed to rounded sides, because it is baked in a long loaf pan instead of freeform on a baking sheet. The purpose of the loaf pan is to contain a vanilla-and-rum-flavored custard that is poured over the almond-and-buttery-bread-filled strudel. During baking, the filling absorbs the custard, expanding and taking on the moist and creamy texture of a bread pudding soufflé, encased in a golden, crunchy pastry. The contrast of textures is at its best when the strudel is still warm, but it is also absolutely delicious at room temperature. This recipe requires a special pan called a Pullman loaf pan, but it is well worth the investment because you will want to make this strudel many times for special occasions.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 375°F. • BAKING TIME: 45 MINUTES MAKES: A 15-INCH BY 3½-INCH BY 1½-INCH-HIGH STRUDEL SERVES: 10 TO 12
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Use stale French bread, sliced with crusts removed, or leave sliced bread exposed to the air for several hours to dry. Process it or chop it with a sharp knife until medium-fine crumbs are formed. It’s okay to use commercial bread crumbs in this strudel, but, as they are finer, use only 3 tablespoons.
1 recipe Strudel Dough (page 387)		8.5 ounces	245 grams
melted, unsalted butter, preferably clarified (page 629)	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	114 grams
Brusel unsalted butter	1 teaspoon	•	5 grams
fresh bread crumbs*	cup	approx. 1 ounce	33 grams
sugar	¼ teaspoon	•	•
sliced blanched almonds, chopped medium-fine	full cup	approx. 1 ounce	33 grams
Bread Filling crustless fresh bread or rolls, loosely torn	1 cup	2 ounces	58 grams
milk	½ liquid cup	4.25 ounces	121 grams
unsalted butter	4½ tablespoons	2.25 ounces	64 grams
powdered sugar	¼ cup (lightly spooned)	1 ounce	28 grams
3 large eggs, separated yolks whites	scant 2 fluid ounces 3 fluid ounces	2 ounces approx. 3 ounces	56 grams 90 grams
finely grated lemon zest	1½ teaspoons	•	3 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon	•	4 grams
Cræme Fraîche (page 558) or sour cream	½ cup	4 ounces	116 grams
cream of tartar	teaspoon	•	•
granulated sugar	3 tablespoons	1.3 ounces	38 grams

EQUIPMENT

A 36- to 48-inch-wide table, preferably round, covered with a clean sheet or tablecloth, rubbed with a little flour, and a Pullman loaf pan (15¾ inches by 3¾ inches, measured at the bottom), buttered

Make the dough (page 387).

MAKE THE BRUSEL

In a small frying pan, over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the bread crumbs, sprinkle with the sugar, and sauté for a few minutes until golden, stirring constantly. Empty the crumbs into a small bowl, add the almonds, and set aside.

MAKE THE BREAD FILLING

In a medium bowl, soak the bread in the milk for at least 10 minutes or until the milk is absorbed. The bread will soften but not fall apart easily or be mushy; there will still be some dry parts.

In a mixer bowl, preferably with the paddle beater, combine the butter, powdered sugar, egg yolks, and lemon zest and beat on medium speed for 3 to 5 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary, until smooth and creamy. On low speed, beat in the vanilla. Add the soaked bread and the brusel and beat on medium speed until the bread breaks up, about 30 seconds. Whisk in the cræme fraîche or sour cream by hand.

In a large mixer bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat at medium speed, gradually adding 1 tablespoon of the sugar, until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and continue beating on high speed until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

Using a large rubber spatula, fold this meringue into the bread mixture; it will be soft. (The filling will measure about 4 cups/22.25 ounces/363 grams.) Refrigerate it, tightly covered, while stretching the strudel dough.

Roll and stretch the dough (see page 389).

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set the oven rack in the middle position before preheating.

FILL AND ROLL THE STRUDEL

Starting about 6 inches from the bottom edge of the dough, spread the bread filling across the dough in a 9- by 12-inch rectangle (it will spread to 15 inches during rolling). Use the cloth or your fingers to lift the bottom edge of the dough and flip it over the filling. It doesn’t have to cover all the filling at this point. Use the sides of the cloth to flip the sides of the dough over the filling, leaving a 3- to 4-inch border on either side of the filling to tuck under at the end. Brush the top of the dough and the side borders with some of the butter and use the cloth to
roll it, brushing it with butter every other turn. If necessary, brush off any flour clinging to the dough before brushing it with butter. With the seam on the top, fold the ends up over the top of the strudel. The strudel should be no more than 15 inches long; if it is longer, push in the ends so it will fit into the pan. Use the cloth to flip the roll seam side down into the prepared pan. Brush the top with the remaining melted butter. There is no need to cut steam vents, as the top splits naturally as the filling swells.

MAKE THE ROYALE CUSTARD

In a medium bowl, combine the milk, egg yolk, sugar, lemon juice, rum, and vanilla and whisk to blend well. Strain the mixture into a 1-cup or larger measuring cup with a spout.

Bake the strudel for 20 minutes. Pour the royale around the sides of the strudel (not on the top). It will come about halfway up the sides. Bake for 25 minutes longer or until the pastry is golden and the filling is set. (A thermometer inserted in the center will read 210°F. and the filling where the split develops will spring back when lightly pressed.) Remove the pan to a wire rack and allow the strudel to cool for 30 minutes.

Run a small metal spatula or knife between the sides of the strudel and the pan and invert it into a large cookie sheet. Reinvert it onto the top of the Pullman loaf pan cover (it makes an attractive and perfect-sized serving plate). Sprinkle the strudel lightly with powdered sugar, if desired. Cut into 1¼- to 1½-inch pieces on the bias. Discard the end pieces or cut up and serve in pieces for those who enjoy extra pastry without the filling. Serve at once.