Pie and Pastry Bible (159 page)

Have ready near the range a 1-cup heatproof glass measure.

In a small heavy saucepan (preferably with a nonstick lining), stir together ¾ cup of the sugar and the water until all the sugar is moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. (If using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

Increase the heat under the sugar syrup and boil the syrup until a thermometer registers 248° to 250°F. (the firm ball stage). Immediately pour it into the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using an electric hand-held mixer, beat the syrup into the whites in a steady stream. To keep syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl, do not allow it to fall directly on the beaters. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the whites with the mixer off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. With the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the measure. Beat at medium speed until cool, about 2 minutes. Use at once for maximum volume.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 2 hours; refrigerated, up to 2 days. Rebeat the chilled meringue briefly before using; the meringue will still be smooth and creamy but will decrease in volume by half.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

For maximum stability, the syrup must reach 248°F. but not exceed 270°F., as higher temperatures will break down the whites.

The whites must be free of any grease or trace of yolk.

Do not overbeat the meringue after cooling.

EXTRA-LIGHT ITALIAN MERINGUE

T
his meringue has equal volume sugar and egg white, which means even less sugar than in the light Italian meringue. This gives it a greater volume and, of course, it is therefore lighter in texture. It is less stable, and therefore not as suited to folding into other ingredients, but it is my first choice to use as a pie topping because it is exceptionally light and moist but will not deflate, form teardrops, or become watery at the bottom.

Have ready near the range a 1-cup heatproof glass measure.

In a small heavy saucepan (preferably with a nonstick lining), stir together the sugar and water. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. (If using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

Increase the heat under the syrup and boil the syrup until a thermometer registers 236°F. (soft ball stage). Immediately pour it into the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using an electric hand-held mixer, beat the syrup into the whites in a steady stream, avoiding the beaters to keep syrup from spinning onto sides of bowl. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the whites with the mixer off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. With the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the measure. Beat at medium speed until cool, about 2 minutes. Use at once for maximum volume.

Spread the meringue topping onto the pie in decorative swirls, making sure that it touches the edges of the pie crust so that it will not shrink. Broil it for 20 seconds to a minute, watching carefully to prevent burning, until the meringue is golden.

If you prefer a less moist meringue, bake it in a preheated 350°F oven for 5 minutes before browning it under the broiler. Do not bake it for more than 5 minutes, or it risks collapse.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 2 hours; refrigerated, up to 2 days. Rebeat briefly before using; the meringue will still be smooth and creamy but will decrease in volume by half.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

For maximum stability without compromising volume, the syrup should reach but not exceed 236°F.

Do not overbeat the meringue after cooling.

The egg whites and all utensils must be entirely grease-free in order for the whites to beat to stiff peaks.

Cool the baked meringue away from drafts to prevent deflating. A cupboard is ideal.

UNDERSTANDING

Classic Italian meringue has double the weight of sugar to egg whites. This recipe has less sugar than egg (equal volume but less weight) and is brought to a lower temperature. It, therefore, is not only less sweet but also lighter, and it has more volume since it is not weighed down by the sugar. Classic Italian meringue is cooked to 248°F., which makes it more stable but also less soft.

FOOD-PROCESSOR POURED FONDANT

T
his shiny fondant is the traditional topping for Classic Napoleon (page 453). Using the food processor makes what used to be a painstaking process extraordinarily easy.

EQUIPMENT

An accurate candy thermometer

Advance preparation:
24 hours.

Have ready near the range a food processor fitted with the steel blade.

In a medium heavy saucepan (preferably with nonstick lining), combine the sugar, water, and corn syrup and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Stop stirring and allow the syrup to cook to 238°F (the soft ball stage). Immediately pour it into the food processor.