Pie and Pastry Bible (158 page)

I have experimented with many possibilities for stabilizing soft meringue toppings to keep them from shrinking and deflating, or breaking down and watering out on sitting. The shrinking problem is the easier of the two, as this can be prevented by being careful to attach the meringue to the crust before baking and cooling it away from drafts. The watering problem was more of a challenge. Ideal was the late Michael Field’s idea of adding ¼ teaspoon of bone meal to every 3 egg whites. I have no idea how he ever came up with this concept, but it works wonderfully except that there is a perceptible, slightly sandy crunch that I don’t enjoy. I have tried, so far without luck, to interest industry in producing a bone meal for bakers that would be reduced to a micron so that the tongue could not perceive it. A traditional slurry of cornstarch, which I found so successful in whipped cream, compromises the ethereal lightness of the meringue. Making a hot sugar syrup and beating it into the egg whites (Italian meringue) or spreading meringue on hot filling to set the meringue on the bottom turned out to be the best solutions.

I have also experimented with different flavors in meringue and ruled out both coffee and brown sugar. The coffee, instead of tempering the sweetness, gave it an overriding bitter, off flavor. The moisture and weight of the brown sugar (I replaced half the granulated sugar with it) resulted in a heavier meringue, the volume of which was 5 cups instead of the usual 6, with the proportions in the basic 4-egg-white recipe. The addition of cocoa or bitter chocolate, however, not only is delicious, it also serves to temper the sweetness of the meringue.

CRISP MERINGUE PIE SHELL OR TOPPING

(White, Cocoa, and Bitter Chocolate-Speckled)

T
his recipe, when used to make a pie shell, provides an excellent fat-free container for fillings. This meringue has double the sugar of soft meringue to give it more density and stability. Replacing half the granulated sugar, by weight, with powdered sugar that is folded into the meringue produces the lightest possible crisp meringue.

The cocoa and bitter chocolate-speckled variations are less sweet, so they are also excellent to eat plain when baked only briefly so that they remain soft inside.

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch pie plate, lightly greased or sprayed with nonstick vegetable spray; optional: a number 6 (½-inch) plain round pastry tube, a number 7 large pastry star tube, and 2 reclosable quart-size freezer bags or 2 pastry bags

Preheat the oven to 200°.

In a large mixer bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat at medium speed, gradually adding 2 tablespoons of the superfine sugar, until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining 7 tablespoons of superfine sugar and continue beating on high speed until very stiff and glossy. Sift the powdered sugar over the meringue and, using a slotted skimmer or large rubber spatula, fold it in.

If using the freezer or pastry bags, insert the star tube into one bag and fill it with a cup of the meringue. Insert the plain round tube into the second bag and fill the bag with the remaining meringue. Starting at the center of the pie plate,
using the larger amount of meringue, pipe a spiral coil (see page 621) to cover the bottom and sides of the pan. Use a small metal spatula and any leftover meringue to fill in any gaps. Using the meringue in the bag with the star tube, pipe a border of shells or stars (see page 621).

Alternatively, use a large spoon to spread a ½-inch-thick layer of meringue over the bottom and sides of the pie pan.

Place the meringue in the oven and bake without opening the oven door for 2 hours. The meringue should not begin to brown. To check for doneness, without removing it from the oven, use the tip of a small sharp knife to dig out a little from the center. It can still be a tiny bit sticky, as it will continue to dry while cooling. If it is stickier, leave it in the oven for another 30 minutes or until done.

To prevent cracking, turn off the oven and prop the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Allow the meringue to sit for 10 minutes. Then open the oven door completely and allow the meringue to sit for another 10 minutes before removing it from the oven.

Alternatively, if your oven has a pilot light, and time allows, the most even way to dry the meringue is to bake it for 1 hour, then turn off the heat and allow it to sit undisturbed for 8 hours.

VARIATIONS

Adding unsweetened cocoa or chocolate to the meringue does wonders for tempering the sweetness. The chocolate version, however, is too soft to make a wellarticulated raised border.

COCOA MERINGUE
Whisk 2 tablespoons (scant 0.9 ounce/12 grams) of unsweetened cocoa (preferably Dutch-processed) into the powdered sugar until evenly blended before folding it into the meringue. A few drops of liquid red food color, added to the egg whites, will give the meringue a nicer shade of brown. (Do not use paste food color, as it would break down the egg white foam.) (Makes about 4 cups/12 ounces/343 grams.)

BITTER CHOCOLATE-SPECKLED MERINGUE
In a food processor with the metal blade, place the powdered sugar and 2 ounces of unsweetened chocolate, broken into pieces, and process until the chocolate is powdery. Refrigerate the mixture for about 30 minutes before folding it into the meringue. (If the chocolate is cold and hard, the meringue will stay white; otherwise, it will become pale tan.) (Makes about 4 cups/13.5 ounces/382 grams.)

STORE

Airtight, room temperature (low humidity), at least 6 months.

NOTE

For a 9-inch pie shell (but without a raised decorative border), make three quarters of the recipe, using 3 whites.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

The egg whites and all utensils must be entirely grease-free in order for the whites to beat to stiff peaks.

SOFT MERINGUE TOPPING

(Meringue for Piping)

T
his is the meringue to make for topping a pie if the pie will not sit very long after preparation. It is light and billowy and not overpoweringly sweet.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350°F. • BAKING TIME: 10 TO 15 MINUTES MAKES: ABOUT 4.5 cups/5.7 TO 7 OUNCES/165 TO 200 GRAMS
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
3 large egg whites, at room temperature	3 fluid ounces (6 tablespoons)	approx. 3 ounces	90 grams
cream of tartar	teaspoon	•	•
superfine sugar*	6 to 9 tablespoons†	2.6 to 4 ounces	75 to 112 grams

In a large mixer bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat at medium speed, gradually adding 2 tablespoons of the sugar, until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining sugar and continue beating on high speed until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

Spread the meringue topping onto the pie in decorative swirls, making sure that it touches the edges of the pie so that it will not shrink.

To bake:
For a 3-egg-white meringue, bake in a preheated 350°F. oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden; for a 4-egg-white meringue, bake for 12 to 15 minutes. (The temperature will be 115°F.)

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

The egg whites and all utensils must be entirely grease-free in order for the whites to beat to stiff peaks.

Cool the baked meringue away from drafts to prevent deflating. A cupboard is ideal.

LIGHT ITALIAN MERINGUE

C
lassic Italian meringue contains double the weight of sugar to egg whites. This recipe has only a little more than one and a half times the sugar, giving it just enough body and sweetness to lighten chiffon pies.