Pie and Pastry Bible (164 page)

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, about 4-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining, and a baking sheet

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar, water, and corn syrup until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling all over the surface. Add the nuts and stir to coat them well. Spoon the nuts onto the baking sheet, leaving behind any excess syrup.

Bake the nuts, stirring several times, for 25 to 30 minutes or until the sugar caramelizes. It will turn a dark brown and start bubbling on the surface of the nuts, creating a fine glaze. Empty the nuts into a bowl, add the butter, and toss to coat them with the butter. Allow them to cool completely, then store them airtight. To use the nuts as a garnish, leave them whole or break them into pieces.

STORE

Room temperature, airtight, up to 3 weeks.

UNDERSTANDING

The corn syrup prevents crystallization of the sugar. The butter helps to keep the nuts separate and adds flavor.

BRANDIED BURGUNDY CHERRIES

EQUIPMENT

1-quart canning jar

The night before, refrigerated, or several hours ahead, room temperature, thaw the cherries fully in a colander suspended over a deep bowl. Pour the juice (about 10 tablespoons) into a 2-cup liquid measure and add enough water to equal 1½ cups.

In a medium saucepan, combine the cherry liquid and sugar and bring to a boil; simmer for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. With a slotted spoon, transfer the cherries to the quart jar. Pour in the kirsch or cognac and cover.

In a large pan, boil the cherry syrup (it bubbles up, so stir often) until reduced to 1 cup. Pour it over the cherries. Cover tightly and swirl to mix. If storing for more than 3 months, add enough liqueur to reach nearly the top. Cool, then refrigerate.

SAUCES AND GLAZES

DESSERT SAUCES AND GLAZES

There are some tarts and pastries and even pies that rise to another dimension when lightly napped with a complementary sauce or glaze. Chiffon pie, for example, looks beautiful and tastes great with a fruit sauce—such as Lemon Angel Chiffon Pie (page 157) with raspberry sauce. Apple tartlets are at their finest with a little caramel sauce. Raspberry Chiffon Pie (page 157) looks terrific and tastes equally wonderful with pistachio cream sauce. Few people will turn down a hot fudge sauce. And a glistening glaze lightly coating fresh fruit atop a pie, such as strawberries, makes them come alive while preserving their moisture and freshness. A caramel glaze can be an exciting contrast to a cold or frozen pastry such as profiteroles. A cold raspberry sauce or cream sauce can elevate a warm pastry to the sublime.

For a really quick custard sauce, melt a custard-based ice cream. After all, that’s what ice cream is—a frozen custard sauce! (It is usually a little sweeter, however, because freezing suppresses the perception of sweetness.) If using a commercial variety of ice cream, and it seems a little thicker than desired, simply thin it with cream, half-and-half, milk, or a little liqueur.

Without a sauce to add texture, flavor, and beauty to the plate, many a pastry would seem unfinished and incomplete.

HOT FUDGE SAUCE

T
his sticky, intense hot fudge is my favorite version of all that I have tried over the years. The addition of cocoa provides a deep chocolate flavor and rich, dark color.

MAKES: ¾ CUP
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
bittersweet chocolate, preferably Lindt Excellence or Valrhona	½ of a 3-ounce bar	1.5 ounces	43 grams
Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa	2 tablespoons	approx. 0.5 ounce	12 grams
water	liquid cup	2.75 ounces	78 grams
unsalted butter	3 tablespoons	1.5 ounces	42 grams
sugar	cup	2.3 ounces	66 grams
corn syrup	2 tablespoons	1.5 ounces	41 grams
salt	a pinch	•	•
pure vanilla extract	½ teaspoon	•	•

In a small heavy saucepan (ideally with a nonstick lining), melt the chocolate with the cocoa and water, stirring constantly. Add the butter, sugar, corn syrup, and salt. Simmer, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Stop stirring and cook at a moderate boil for 5 to 10 minutes or until the mixture thickens and reduces to about ¾ cup (use a greased heatproof glass cup for measuring). Swirl the mixture in the pan occasionally but do not stir. Toward the end of cooking, reduce the heat to low to prevent scorching.

Cool slightly and add the vanilla. Keep warm or reheat in a water bath or microwave, stirring gently.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 1 month.

NOTE

The microwave is great for making hot fudge because the chocolate does not come into contact with direct heat, so there is less risk of scorching. Use a greased 4-cup heatproof glass measure or bowl, as the fudge will bubble up while reducing.

CARAMEL SAUCE

T
his sauce is for the caramel lover. It’s equally wonderful over ice cream, cake, or apple pie. It is just thick enough when hot, but not clumpy or sticky as it cools on the plate. Don’t be afraid of making caramel. If you follow the simple but important Pointers for Success on page 601, it will be easy. Do be sure when making it not to have any small children about and give it your undivided attention. Caramel burns are extremely painful.

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, at least 5-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar, syrup, and water until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber (380°F.). Immediately remove it from the heat and slowly and carefully pour the hot cream into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously.

Use a high-temperature heat-resistant rubber spatula, or a porcelain or wooden spoon to stir the mixture until smooth, scraping up the thicker part that settles on the bottom. If any lumps develop, return the pan to the heat and stir until they dissolve. Stir in the butter. The mixture will be streaky but become uniform after cooling slightly and stirring.

Allow the sauce to cool for 3 minutes. Gently stir in the vanilla extract.

For a decorative lacing effect, this caramel pours perfectly at room temperature. For the greatest precision, use a pastry bag with a small decorating tube or a reclosable bag with a small piece cut from one corner.

VARIATIONS

BURNT ORANGE CARAMEL SAUCE
The fructose in the orange juice causes the sugar to caramelize at a much lower temperature. Replace the water with 1 cup of freshly squeezed orange juice. The mixture will caramelize to the correct degree at 310°F.

RUBY PORT CARAMEL SAUCE
Great color and flavor contrast with chocolate. Substitute 3 tablespoons of ruby port for an equal amount of the cream. Add it together with the vanilla extract.

BOURBON BUTTERSCOTCH CARAMEL SAUCE
A sauce with a mellow butterscotchy effect that is superb with bananas or chocolate. Substitute 2 tablespoons of bourbon for an equal amount of the cream. Add it together with the vanilla extract.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 3 days; refrigerated, at least 3 months. To reheat: If the caramel is in a microwave-safe container at room temperature, microwave it on high power for 1 minute, stirring twice. If cold, it will take a few seconds more. Alternatively, place it in a bowl in a pan of simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until warm, about 7 minutes.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

See page 601.

UNDERSTANDING

Refiner’s or corn syrup helps to prevent the caramel sauce from crystallizing when stirred. It also lowers the caramelization temperature.

I adore the flavor of caramel, so I like to have as much depth of flavor as possible without any burnt flavor. I bring this caramel up to at least 380°F. for maximum flavor. The darker you make the caramel, the less sweet it will seem, but you risk burning it if you don’t have an absolutely accurate thermometer (see page 673).

It’s best to have the cream hot and the butter at room temperature to avoid splattering when they are added to the hot caramel. Cold cream, however, speeds the cooling and is practical if you’re pressured for time—but it must be added very slowly.

I do not recommend using cræme fraîche in place of heavy cream, as it does not decrease sweetness to any significant degree nor does it add interest of flavor.

Unrefined sugar, which contains a small amount of natural molasses—which caramelizes at a slightly lower temperature—provides a flavor that is deliriously reminiscent of butterscotch. The “impurities” in unrefined sugar can cause crystallization so if you use it, care must be taken not to stir the caramel too much.

CLEAR CARAMEL SAUCE

T
his caramel sauce, from the incomparable baker and cookbook author Maida Heatter, is the purest possible version of caramel because it contains nothing but sugar and water and optional liquor for an edge of heightened flavor. Because there are no added dairy products, in the form of butter or cream, it is sparkling clear and has an indefinite shelf life. It is the perfect garnish to complement a light creamy dessert such as Panna Cotta (page 377).

MAKES: ¾ CUP
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
		VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
sugar	1 cup	7 ounces	200 grams
water	1 liquid cups, divided	11 ounces	313 grams
optional: dark rum or bourbon	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	14 grams