Pie and Pastry Bible (187 page)

Piano wire whisk

Extra-find-mesh strainer

THERMOMETERS

It is better not to use a thermometer at all than to use one that is inaccurate and thereby gives false readings. Some manufacturers state that a thermometer should be tested in boiling water (212°F.), and if it is off, it should be adjusted accordingly. The problem, however, is that at higher temperatures, the degree of inaccuracy will vary. It is for this reason that several years ago I designed and started to produce Cordon Rose laboratory thermometers with one of the leading manufacturers in the industry, who produces them to my specifications. There are now other good thermometers on the market, but when it comes to absolute accuracy and speed of response, nothing beats the laboratory thermometers, which contain mercury and have an etched glass stem with no metal touching it to throw off the reading. When working with chocolate or a sugar syrup, a quick response in a thermometer is imperative because the temperature is continuing to rise even faster than the thermometer maybe capable of registering.

Chocolate (left) and candy (right) thermometers

The Cordon Rose candy/deep fat thermometer has a range of 20° to 500°F. in 2-degree increments. The Cordon Rose chocolate thermometer has a range of 40° to 130°F. in widely spaced 1-degree increments, accurate to within 1 degree. They are both calibrated to standards traceable to the National Bureau of Standards in thermometers Washington, D.C.

My chocolate thermometer was favorably reviewed by a national magazine, but in comparing it to another glass thermometer, they stated the “red mercury” in the other thermometer made it easier to read. Mercury is a metal and is metallic in color. It is never red. The red is dyed alcohol and is not reliable. These thermometers are available through Broadway Panhandler, La Cuisine, and New York Cake and Baking Distributors (page 675).

HOW TO READ A MERCURY
/
GLASS THERMOMETER
Since many people hold a thermometer with the left hand while stirring with the right, I designed the Cordon Rose thermometers with two opposing scales so that they can be read left-or right-handed.

A thermometer should be read at eye level, slanted slightly to one side. The immersion level, indicated by an etched ring toward the base, is the point to which it must be immersed to read most accurately. Thermometers should be immersed up to this level when read, although one that is well made will still read with a fair
degree of accuracy despite the degree of immersion. If working with a small amount of liquid, tilt the pan slightly to increase the depth of the liquid when reading the thermometer. The highest accuracy of a thermometer is not at either extreme of its scale.

HOW TO CARE FOR A THERMOMETER
It is best to hang a thermometer out of harm’s way, as rattling around in a drawer may cause mercury separation. This can also occur if the thermometer is handled roughly during shipping or if it is dropped. To reunite mercury into one solid column, all the mercury must either descend to its lowest point or rise to its highest. If the highest temperature is below the boiling point, this can be done by slowly immersing the bulb in boiling water and removing it as soon as the mercury is reunited. If the scale is higher, it must be returned to the manufacturer. Never place the bulb of the thermometer directly over an open flame.

To prevent breakage, avoid extremes in temperature. When removing the thermometer from a hot liquid, for example, do not place it on a cold drain board. Also, do not allow the thermometer to rest on a pan’s bottom, because when it lies on its side, the uneven heat distribution could cause it to crack. Clips to attach thermometers to the side of a pan are prone to slipping, because they do not conform to a universal pan size or shape. I prefer to hold the thermometer, which is possible because glass does not significantly conduct heat.

PASTRY, BREAD, AND MEAT THERMOMETERS
Mercury glass thermometers are not practical for pastry, bread, or roasts, as it would be necessary first to make an indentation with a skewer. I find a high-quality probe thermometer more suited to the task. My favorite is the English battery-operated Thermapen 5F thermometer with a range of -50° to 55O°F. (King Arthur catalogue, page 675).

Pastry, bread, and meat thermometer

OVEN THERMOMETERS
I use a laboratory cable thermometer from Omega (page 675), model #HH22. It is very expensive but far more accurate than any oven thermometer I have tested designed for home use, and it can be used for two ovens at the same time. It is important for an oven thermometer to be read without opening the oven, as the temperature would start to drop immediately.

For battery-operated thermometers, change the battery regularly. As the battery wears, accuracy decreases.

^*
The Kenwood is from England and in recent years has gone under the Rival name. A new distributor is presently in the works.

SOURCES

EQUIPMENT SOURCES

Many specialty-equipment stores have mail-order catalogues and will send them on request.

Note:
I have listed only long-established companies; however, over the years there may be changes, particularly in area codes and phone numbers. An asterisk (*) indicates that the store carries the Cordon Rose thermometers.

Albert Uster Imports, Inc.
9211 Gaither Road
Gaithersburg, MD 20877
(800) 231-8154

The Bridge Company
214 East 52nd Street
New York, NY10022
(212) 688-4220

*The Broadway Panhandler
477 Broome Street
New York, NY10013
(212) 966-3434

The Chef’s Catalogue
P.O. Box 620048
Dallas, TX 75262
(800) 338-3232

The Complete Kitchen
118 Greenwich Avenue
Greenwich, CT 06830
(203) 869-8384

Cooking by the Book, Inc.
11 Worth Street
New York, NY10013
(212) 966-9799

Dean & DeLuca
560 Broadway
New York, NY10012
(800) 999-0306,
Monday-Friday, 9
A.M.
-5
P.M.

Fante
1006 South Ninth Street
Philadelphia, PA19147
(800) 878-5557

Jacobs of Willmar, Inc.
2166-66TH Avenue NE
Willmar, MN 56201
(320) 235-7594

J. B. Prince
36 East 31st Street
11th floor
New York, NY 10016
(212) 683-3553
(food-service quantity only)

Katagiri
224 East 59th Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 755-3566

The King Arthur Flour Baker’s
Catalogue
P.O. Box 876
Norwich, VT 05055-0876
(800) 827-6836

*La Cuisine
323 Cameron Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(800) 521-1176

Lello Appliances Corporation
355 Murray Hill Parkway
East Rutherford, NJ 07073
(201) 939-2555
(call for distributors)

The Longaberger Company
One Market Square
1500 East Main Street
Newark, OH 43055
(740) 322-5163
(call for distributors)

Mettler Instrument
Corporation
350 West Wilson Bridge
Worthington, OH
(800) 786-0038

Miles Kimball
41 West 8th Avenue
Oshkosh, WI 54906
(800) 546-2255

Miracle Exclusives
64 Seaview Boulevard
Port Washington, NY 11050
(800) 645-6360

* New York Cake and Baking
Distributors
56 West 22nd Street
New York, NY 10010
(800) 942-2539

Omega
One Omega Drive
P.O. Box 4047
Stamford, CT 06907
(800) 826-6342

Scan Pan
49 Walnut Street
Norwood, NJ 07648
(201) 767-6252

Sur La Table
84 Pine Street
Seattle, WA 98101
(800) 240-0853

Swissmar Imports, Inc.
35 East Beaver Creek Road
Richmond Hill, Ontario
L4B1B3 Canada
(800) 387-5707
(call for store in your area)

Van Horn-Hayward
P.O. Box 903
Bellaire, TX 77402
(713) 782-8532

The Vermont Country Store
Catalogue
P.O. Box 3000
Manchester Center, VT 05255
(802) 824-3184

Williams-Sonoma
Mail Order Department
P.O. Box 7456
San Francisco, CA 94120-7456
(800) 541-2233

Wilton Industries
2240 West 75 Street
Woodridge, IL 60517-0750
(800) 994-5866

INGREDIENT SOURCES

Many specialty-ingredient stores have mail-order catalogues and will send them on request.

Note:
I have listed only long-established companies; however, over the years there may be changes, particularly in area codes and phone numbers.

Alberto-Culver Company
2525 Armitage Avenue
Melrose Park, IL 60160
(800) 333-0005

American Spoon Food
P.O. Box 566
Petoskey, MI 49770
(800) 220-5886

Balducci’s Mail Order Division
42-25 2th Street
Long Island City, NY 11101
(212) 225-3822

Cherry Marketing Institute
P.O. Box 30285
Lansing, MI 48909
(517) 669-4264

The Cherry Stop Retail Store
Orchards’ Harvest
P.O. Box 4446
Traverse City, MI 49685
(800) 286-7209

Columbia Empire Farms
Seedless Preserves
P.O. Box 1
Dundee, OR 97115
(503)554-9060

Dean & DeLuca
560 Broadway
New York, NY 10012
(800) 999-0306,
Monday-Friday, 9
A.M.
-5
P.M.

Dillman Farms
4955 West State Road 45
Bloomington, IN 47403
(800) 359-1362

Dufour Pastry Kitchens
25 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10014
(212) 929-2800

Eggology
2899 Agoura Road
Suite 600
Westlake Village, CA 91361
(888) 669-6557

Fillo Factory
P.O. Box 15
Dumont, NJ 07628
(800) OKFILLO

Freida’s Inc.
P.O. Box 58488
Los Angeles, CA 90058
(800) 241-1771

Friske Orchards
11027 Doctor Road
Charleboix, MI 49720
(888) 588-6185

Harrington’s
Main Street
Richmond, VT 05477
(802) 434-4444

Hazy Grove Nuts
P.O. Box 25753
Portland, OR 97298
(503) 244-0593

Hellas International
35 Congress Street
Salem, MA 01970
(800) 274-1233

India Tree
4240 Gilman Place West #B
Seattle, WA 98199
(800) 369-4848
(call for distributors in your area)

Keenan Farm
P.O. Box 299
Avenal, CA 93204
(209) 386-9516

The King Arthur Flour Baker’s
Catalogue
P.O. Box 876
Norwich, VT 05055-0876
(800) 827-6836

Kojel Food Co.
137 Gardner Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11237
(718) 821-5330

La Cuisine
323 Cameron Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(800) 521-1176

Maison Glass Delicacies
725 Valley Brook Avenue
Lindhurst, NJ
(800) 822-5564

Master Chef (More Than
Gourmet)
115 West Bartges Street
Akron, OH 44311
(800) 860-9385

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut
Corp.
Dept. G
H.C.01,Box 3
Hilo, Hawaii 96720
(808) 966-8612

New York Cake and Baking
Distributors
56 West 22nd Street
New York, NY 10010
(800) 942-2539

Nielsen-Massey Vanillas
1550 Shields Drive
Waukegan, IL 60085
(800) 525-7873

Penzeys, Ltd.
P.O. Box 933
Muskego, WI 53150
(414) 679-7207