Pie and Pastry Bible (188 page)

San Saba
P.O. Box 906
San Saba, TX 76877
(800) 621-8121

Simpson and Vail
3 Quarry Road
Brookfield, CT 06804
(800) 282-8327

Sultan’s Delight
P.O. Box 090302
Brooklyn, NY 11209
(800) 825-5046

Sunnyland Farms
P.O. Box 8200
Albany, GA 31706
(800) 999-2488

Taam-Tov Food, Inc.
188 28th Street
Brooklyn, NY 11232
(718) 788-8880

Williams-Sonoma
Mail Order Department
P.O. Box 7456
San Francisco, CA 94120-7456
(800) 541-2233

The Yorkville Packing House,
Inc.
1560 Second Avenue
New York, NY 10028
(212) 628-5147

FOOD SERVICE (MOSTLY LARGE-QUANTITY PURCHASE)

Albert Uster
(help line)
Susan Notter, corporate chef;
Andreas Galliker, executive chef
(800) 231-8154

Ambassador Fine Foods
(800) 272-8694

Gourmand
2869 Towerview Road
Herndon, VA 20171
(800) 627-7272

Harry Wils
182 Duane Street
New York, NY 10013
(212) 517-5370
(only to the trade)

Patisfrance
161 East Union Avenue
East Ruthford, NJ 07073
(800)
PASTRY
-1

Voilà
65 Porter Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11237
(718) 366-1100

The White Lily Foods Company
P.O. Box 871
Knoxville, TN 37901
(800) 264-5459

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This book is a reflection of and belongs very much also to my treasured friend and associate David Shamah, whose heart and spirit is in so many recipes. Since
The Cake Bible,
ten years ago, he has opened his own restaurant, Back to Nature, in Brooklyn. He has adapted many of my recipes for restaurant quantity and production and I am very proud to see them on his menu. Despite the major full-time concerns of running a restaurant, he has stayed ever involved with my project, always insistent and uncompromising in his expectations and encouraging me to pursue and perfect concepts he encounters and admires. His taste has been utterly reliable and he rejoices and cares about every breakthrough and discovery as much as I do. It is thanks to him that these years of work have not been accomplished in solitude.

I also wish to acknowledge the devoted production team of this book: Susan Moldow, publisher; Roz Lippel, associate publisher; Beth Wareham, publicist extraordinaire; Matthew Thornton (Maria Guarnaschelli’s assistant), who makes everything run smoothly; copy editor, fellow baker, and author Judith Sutton, whose suggestions were thoughtful and creative; senior copy editor M. C. Hald, whose eyes I trust more than my own, and her lovely assistants Jennifer Lynes and Laura Wise; Olga Leonardo, production director supreme; designer Barbara Bachman, whose talent proves that design is everything; art director John Fontana, who gave me the cover of my dreams; artist Laura Hartman Maestro, whose exquisite line drawings grace these pages; photographer Jerry Ruotolo, who provided Laura with the photos of me making Strudel and the back cover photo; photographers Gentl & Hyers, artists and wonderful collaborators; stylist Roscoe Betsill, who performed miracles, and his assistants Jee Levin, Margarette Adams, Peter Occolowitz, and Michael Pederson; prop stylist Helen Crowther, whose sure and subtle touch completed the picture; and Paul Dippolito, text compositor, for his ingenuity. I am also grateful to my friends food writer Lee White and Chef Randy Eastman for cheerfully testing a sampling of the recipes.

The subject of pastry is a vast one, requiring extensive research. I am indebted to my many talented colleagues and friends for their contributions, influence, and encouragement: Marcia Adams, Stephen Schmidt, and Elizabeth Schneider (pumpkin pie); Jeanne Bauer (light custard rhubarb pie); Nancy Blitzer (plum flame tart); Chef Mark Bauer (temperature of baked pastry); Chef Wayne Brachman (nectarine pie); Shirley O. Corriher (escargot puffs); Narsai David (Danish waffles); Chef Jim Dodge (banana cream pie); Nathalie Dupree (key limes versus Persian); Ray Farnsworth (steak and kidney pie); Keryl Fillers (angel biscuits); Helen Fletcher (Danish braid); Jane Freiman (apricot cheese tart, chocolate pecan blasts); Lynda Foster Gomé (designer apple pie decor); Chef Patti Jackson (currant scones); Mel and Sheryl London (pistachio baklava); Eleanor Lynch (frozen lime pie); Nicholas Malgieri (baking powder in pie crusts); Mark Moody (empanadas); Chef Stacie Pierce (panna cotta and Marionberry filling); Liz and Joe Reilly (fresh red currants); Chef Dieter Schorner (Danish snails); Chef Matthew Scully (bisteeya); Anita and Wayne South (wild Concord grapes); and to my friends and colleagues in Austria, Denmark, France, Germany, Hungary, and Switzerland.

There are a few special friends who also made valuable and unique contributions: Mark Kohut, who took a leap of faith ten years ago and helped put
The Cake Bible
on the culinary map; my lawyer, the late Arthur Ginsburg, who provided me with artistic freedom, and his associate Maura Wogan, who negotiated my contract, even testing two recipes in the process; Barbara Darnell, who generously volunteered her skills as scanner and typist; George Benson, who provided me with late-in-the-season persimmons, Fed-Ex’d from California; Angelica Pulvirenti and Guy Hirshout, who tasted and evaluated countless pastries; John Guarnaschelli, who, when called upon, unfailingly came through both cheerfully and brilliantly with the perfect turn of phrase; Soyoung Lee, Bachelor of Fine Arts student in the Textile/Surface Design Department of the Fashion Institute of Technology, under Zsuzsu Dalquist, who designed the apron I am wearing in the jacket photo; L. S. Colby, who provided continuous support over the years to keep me and my computer going; and the graceful and friendly Kempell typeface.

INDEX

When a recipe has more than one reference, the page number in
boldface
refers to the recipe itself; other page numbers refer to those recipes in which the main recipe is used.

~A~

agar-agar,
640

alligator, the,
507
-9

all-purpose flour,
4
,
5
,
7
,
8
,
411
,
633
-634

almond(s),
641

cookie tart crust, sweet,
59
-60,
149
-51,
157
-60,
266
-67

cream filling (remonce),
485
,
493
-99,
502
-6,
510
-11

honey pecan,
507
-9

in gâteau Basque,
294
-96

hazelnut paste, in chocolate indulgence tartlets,
309

ice cream tartlets, burnt,
230
-31

in Linzertorte,
283

in Moroccan bisteeya triangles,
382
-84

paste,
642

pastry cream:

apricot tartlets with,
429
-31

blueberry or champagne grape tartlets with,
433

pear tart with,
260
-62

in pears wrapped in filio,
372
-74

red currant tartlets with,
431
-33

in Twelfth Night galette
(galette des rois),
446
-50

in two miniature golden apple galettes,
434
-36

angel butter biscuits,
355
-57

ginger,
357

in strawberry shortcake (with variations),
358
-59

angel’s hair (caramel for spun sugar),
602
-3

appetizers:

cheese straws,
463
-64

creamy and spicy crab tartlets,
343
-44

escargot puffs,
547
-48

Moroccan bisteeya triangles,
382
-84

spanakopita triangles,
380
-81

spring windfall morel quiche,
344
-47

apple(s),
635

dumplings,
141
-43,
641

fruit pies,
74
-77

amount of cornstarch and sugar in,
76
,
77

best all-American,
79
,
81
-83

brandied raisin,
83

crumb,
86
-88

crumb, crustless,
89
-90

open-faced designer,
84
-86

rosy cranberry,
91
-93

galettes, two miniature golden,
434
-36

pie, Gascon,
370
-71,
380

strudel,
394
-96

streusei,
397
-98

tarts:

galette,
278
-80

Tatin,
281
-83

with walnut cream,
263
-65

weincreme chiffon,
166
-69

turnovers,
134
-37

apricot(s),
638

Danish slips,
500
-501

dried,
639

fruit pies,
76
,
77

open-faced,
120
-21

glaze, to moisture-proof the baked bottom crust,
20

in honeycomb chiffon pie,
170
-73

lekvar,
138
-
40,
496
,
500
-501,
512

poached,
208
-09,
587
-89

puff pastry:

strip,
424
-26

tartlets with almond cream,
429
-31

tarts:

cheesecake,
208
-9

weincreme chiffon,
166
-69

triangles,
496

Apricoture,
20
,
638

Armagnac, in Gascon apple pie,
370
-71

arrowroot,
650
-51,
651
-52

glaze,
611
,
612
,
650
,
652

artist’s brushes,
658

Asiago cheese straws,
463
-64

aurora blood orange tart,
177
,
189
-90

Austrian buchteln,
522
-24

~B~

bacon:

and cabbage Strudel,
408
-10

in quiche Lorraine,
337
-38

Baker’s Joy,
50
,
252
,
253
,
624