Ready for Dessert (21 page)

1¼ cups (6 ounces/170 g) blackberries

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter a standard 12-cup muffin tin.

In a medium skillet, warm the butter over low heat. It will bubble and sizzle for a while before it settles down. Continue to cook over low heat until the butter darkens to the color of maple syrup and smells toasty but not burnt. Remove from the heat and set aside.

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, grind the almonds with the granulated and powdered sugars, flour, and salt. With the motor running, gradually pour in the egg whites and almond extract. Pour in the warm brown butter, leaving behind any blackened bits in the pan, and mix until the batter is smooth.

Divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups. Press 3 or 4 blackberries into the batter in each cup. Bake until the cakes are puffy and deep golden brown, about 18 minutes.

Let cool for 10 minutes, then tip the cakes out onto a wire rack. Let cool completely.

SERVING:
Financiers
are mostly enoyed as snack cakes. To dress them up as desserts, serve them with a bit of
Blackberry Sauce
or
Mango Sauce
and dollops of crème fraîche.

STORAGE:
Some folks swear that
financier
batter is best if refrigerated overnight before baking. I’ve tested that theory and haven’t noticed any difference. But if you’d like to try it for yourself, the batter can be kept for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. Store the cooled baked
financiers
in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

VARIATIONS:
Substitute peach, nectarine, or plum slices for the blackberries (you may want to peel the peaches first). Cut the fruit into ½-inch (1.5-cm) slices and press a few into the batter in each muffin cup before baking.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I once worked with a French waiter known for a fierce scowl that could cause even the most self-assured chef and diner to wither. He tasted one spoonful of these peaches and told me that this was his idea of the perfect dessert. It was one of the few times I saw him smile. But what’s not to like? Icy peaches floating in sweet red wine is pretty close to perfection, if I do say so myself. His good mood didn’t last very long. But after that, every time we passed each other, I knew from the tiny gleam in his eye that I’d won the admiration of my toughest customer.

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

2 cups (500 ml) fruity red wine, such as Merlot, Zinfandel, or Beaujolais

4 ripe yellow or white medium peaches (1½ pounds/675 g)

In a large nonreactive bowl, whisk together the sugar and wine until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Peel the peaches, halve them, and remove the pits. Cut each peach half into slices 1 inch (3 cm) thick and submerge them in the wine. Taste and add more sugar if desired. Cover and chill until cold, at least 4 hours.

SERVING:
The peaches should be enjoyed as cold as possible. Serve them right from the refrigerator in well-chilled bowls with lots of the cold sweetened wine. Crisp cookies, such as
Pecan-Butterscotch Tuiles
or
Croquants
are great served alongside.

STORAGE:
You can make the recipe up to 8 hours in advance and keep the mixture chilled until ready to serve. You can also chill the sweetened wine a few days in advance and add the peaches the day you plan to serve them.

VARIATION:
Use yellow and white nectarines instead of peaches (there’s no need to peel the nectarines).

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I’ve become famous—or infamous—for not wanting people to dip their forks into a dish that I’m eating so that they can get a taste. I’m sorry, but I find nothing more unnerving than having to stop eating and pass something that I’m enjoying around the table. And it seems that the more I like whatever it is, the more it never quite makes it back to me.

Traditionally, Pavlova is a jumbo meringue topped with whipped cream and tropical fruit. But to avoid conflict, I opt to make individual ones so that everyone gets their fair share and forks don’t wander at the table. Individual Pavlovas are also easier to serve.

You can vary the types of tropical fruit that you use, but really try to search out fresh passion fruit. The vibrant orange pulp and seeds spilling over everything will make it instantly clear why this is one dessert you’d not want to share either.

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of cream of tartar (optional)

⅔ cup (130 g) sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Blood Orange Sorbet
,
Strawberry-Mango Sorbet
or
Toasted Coconut Sherbet

2 to 3 cups (500 to 750 g) mixed tropical fruit (a combination of diced pineapple, mango, papaya, kiwifruit, and banana )

Whipped cream

2 fresh ripe passion fruits

Preheat the oven to 200°F (100°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Add the cream of tartar, if using, increase the speed to high, and continue whisking until the whites begin to hold their shape and form soft, drooping peaks when you lift the beater. With the mixer running, gradually add the sugar, then the vanilla, vinegar, and cornstarch and continue whisking until the meringue is shiny and holds stiff peaks.

Drop the meringue in 5 equal mounds (you’ll have an extra meringue in case one breaks), spaced equally apart, on the prepared baking sheet. Dip a soup spoon in water and use the back of it to flatten each mound into a disk 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12 cm) in diameter. With the spoon, make a depression in the center of each meringue that will eventually hold the cream and fruits.

Bake the meringues for 1½ hours. Turn off the heat and leave the meringues in the oven to dry for at least 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

Place a meringue on each of 4 individual plates. Scoop some sorbet into the centers of the meringues. Pile the fruits on top and around the sorbet, then spoon on a dollop of whipped cream. Halve the passion fruits and spoon the pulp and seeds over each Pavlova.

STORAGE:
The meringues can be made up to 1 week in advance and kept in an airtight container at room temperature in a cool, dry spot.

VARIATIONS:
The classic Pavlova is meringue topped with whipped cream and fruit. I like a scoop of sorbet nestled in there, too, but if you prefer it without, spread whipped cream over each meringue and top with the tropical fruits.

If you can’t find fresh passion fruit or frozen purée, add a spoonful of
Raspberry Sauce
or
Blackberry Sauce
over each Pavlova instead.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

There was an expression—“too good to use”—at a certain well-known restaurant where I used to work. One of the cooks coined the phrase to describe what we, the pastry people, would do: hoard beautiful fruits and berries, buying much more than we could possibly use. We considered the fruits so precious that we’d hold off using them, waiting for something very special or just the right moment. Eventually, though, we’d find ourselves with a glut on our hands and had to scramble to use up our stash before it went bad.

If you find yourself in a similar position or if you’re just looking for the great summer dessert loaded with lots of juicy berries, this is it. And if anyone says your summer pudding looks too good to eat, don’t believe them. Just dig right in.

5 cups (1½ pounds/680 g) raspberries

5 cups (1½ pounds/680 g) blackberries

1½ cups (12 ounces/340 g) red currants, stemmed

1 cup (200 g) sugar

2 teaspoons kirsch or freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 loaf (1 pound/450 g) firm-textured white bread (such as
pain de mie),
crust removed and cut into ½-inch (1.5-cm) slices

In a large saucepan over low heat, gently warm the berries, red currants, and sugar. Cook until the berries soften and release their juices, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the kirsch or lemon juice. Let cool, stirring occasionally to encourage juiciness.

Line a 1½-quart (1.5-liter) soufflé dish or a deep bowl of similar size with plastic wrap. Line the bottom and sides with a single layer of bread slices, trimming the slices as needed to fit snugly against each other. Ladle half of the berries and their juice into the bread-lined dish and distribute them evenly.

Arrange a single layer of bread slices over the berries, trimming to fit. Add the remaining berries and juice, then cover with a final layer of bread.

Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface of the pudding, cover with a plate slightly smaller in diameter than the dish, and place a fairly heavy object (such as a large can of tomatoes) on the plate to weigh the pudding down. Refrigerate overnight.

The next day, remove the plastic wrap and invert the pudding onto a plate. Lift off the dish or bowl and the plastic used to line it.

SERVING:
Serve with
whipped cream
. Depending on how juicy the berries were that you used to make the pudding, you may wish to have some additional lightly sweetened berries or
Raspberry Sauce
on hand to douse any unsoaked areas.

STORAGE:
The pudding, in its mold, will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

VARIATION:
Because red currants add a distinctive bit of tang, they are an important addition to this dessert and they’re worth seeking out. But they can be difficult to find. If so, use another pint of raspberries in their place.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

One of the questions I’m often asked is “How do you stay so thin?” I want to respond by saying that I’m about average for my height and age, but instead I tell people that I eat only my own desserts. I’m not just being a salesman, it’s close to the truth. Aside from the occasional treat, for everyday meals, I prefer to make desserts that are well balanced rather than outrageously rich. I’ll often serve small slivers of cake, a plate of cookies, or scoops of icy sorbet along with a fresh fruit compote and have never met with resistance from any of my guests. When it comes to this virtuous fruit soup, the thin sheet of crackly coconut meringue always seals the deal for those who are doubtful that lean can taste luxurious.

SOUP BASE

2 cups (500 ml) water

⅔ cup (130 g) sugar

1 small cinnamon stick

½ star anise

8 whole cloves

8 black peppercorns

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Grated zest of 2 oranges, preferably organic

2 (2-inch/5-cm) pieces lemongrass, white parts only from the bulb end, sliced

4 slices fresh ginger

1 tablespoon dark rum

MERINGUE

1 large egg white, at room temperature

Pinch of salt

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

½ cup (35 g) dried unsweetened shredded coconut

FRUIT AND GARNISH

2 to 3 cups (500 to 750 g) mixed tropical fruit (a combination of diced pineapple, mango, kiwifruit, and banana, and passion fruit pulp with seeds)

A sprinkle of sugar

Fresh mint leaves, for garnish

Toasted Coconut Sherbet

To make the soup base, in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the water and ⅔ cup (130 g) sugar to a boil. Meanwhile, coarsely crush the cinnamon, star anise, cloves, and black peppercorns in a mortar and pestle or seal them in a sturdy plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add the spices to the boiling syrup and turn off the heat. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the saucepan, then drop in the pod along with the orange zest, lemongrass, and ginger. Cover the pan, and let the mixture steep to allow the flavors to infuse, at least 1 hour.

Pour the soup base through a mesh strainer into a medium bowl. (The
vanilla pod
can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose. Stir in the rum, cover, and refrigerate until icy cold.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

To make the meringue, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk together the egg white and salt on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high and continue whisking until the white begins to hold its shape. With the mixer running, gradually sprinkle in the ¼ cup (50 g) sugar and continue whisking until the meringue is shiny and holds stiff peaks. Fold in the coconut.